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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 21, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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so, if you only had ten days of climbing,
what time of year?
which crags to go to?
what routes to do (absolute classics)?
dinas cromlech I'd like to hit centograph, left wall, and try right wall if I can A.0 the crux if I blow it.
but what else? I'm not too into the sub 50' routes so longer stuff.
Cloggy has rotten weather right?
or would you just blow it off and go to Dresden the whole time...?
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mathew
Sport climber
topanga, ca
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Jun 21, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Hey there Rick,
Wales is an epic destination - so much great rock. You are spot on with starting at the Cromlech - as that's where it all started, but while there I would check out the Slate (http://slate.wetpaint.com/); - there is nothing like it anywhere else. I would then go south to Pembrokeshire (2.5 hrs) and climb the sea cliffs - Careg-y-Barcud is my favorite.
August is the best time - at least that's when I plan going there - its the best chance of avoiding that fundamental accompaniment to Welsh climbing - the rain.
good luck! - Mathew
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jun 21, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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If you can time it during nice weather, I'd echo the Pembroke sea-cliff suggestion. Lots of good climbing in a spectaculat setting.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jun 21, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Anglesey - Mousetrap, Gogarth Regular, Dream for easier classics. Nothing like 'em...
Edit:
I was there in November with some Scots. Going to Wales in November for them is like going to the Calanques in November for the 'lollipop' Sassenachs. In November Anglesey was often climbable while it was pissing at Tremadoc and higher due to orographic effect.
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Will Hobbs
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jun 21, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
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North Wales:
There's plenty more to climbing there that Dinas Cromlech, although Cemetary Gates and Left Wall are both great routes; Cenotaph Corner is a bit over-rated in my humble opinion, but still a fine route. Not sure about being able to A0 Right Wall - it's known for it's fall potential. Across the Pass from the Cromlech is Dinas Mot, and SuperDirect comes highly recommended. No trip to Snowdownia would be complete without at least one day up on Cloggy, the site of many spectacular classics. Shrike seems like it would be a good bet for the grades you're aiming for. You might also like to spend a day wandering around the old slate quarries, even if you don\'t climb there; weird places, weird atmosphere.
You would be well-advised to take a day or two climbing on Gogarth, the sea cliffs on Anglesey. If you do no other route there, do Dream of White Horses, but there are plenty more classics perched over the Irish Sea.
I will also second the recommendation to drive down to Pembroke, although I personally prefer the limestone on the south coast to Carreg-y-Barcud; some of the best single pitch climbs I have done anywhere in the world are around there. Lucky Strike, Heart of Darkness, Strait Gate and Rock Idol, plus the climbs on Stennis Head are all fine routes. If you want to push the grades a bit more take a trip into Huntsman's Leap, and be sure you can climb your way out! Just don't forget to check the tide tables for some of the routes).
Wow, I can't believe it's 5 years since I've climbed back home.
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Will Hobbs
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jun 21, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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Oh, and time of year:
Weather is always a lottery in the UK, I've climbed in a t-shirt in January and been snowed on in July. Your best chance for dry crags and warm weather will be August/early September.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 21, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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You may be most likely to encounter reasonable conditions (and so crowds) in June and July, though any time from April to September can be decent.
There are half a dozen good crags in Llanberis Pass, all within 30 minutes of the road. Cloggy is a bit of a walk - about two hours, if I remember rightly. Weather at both is likely similar, and both are rhyolite. Tremadoc offers some quite nice granitic climbing, and as it's close to the coast and away from the mountains, can have nicer weather. Anglesey is right on the coast, and a quite different style of climbing.
All the areas have considerable climbing history, and hopefully you can visit and sample them all. You'll want to be flexible, though.
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JohnRoe
Trad climber
State College, PA
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Jun 21, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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"I'm not too into the sub 50' routes so longer stuff."
One easy classic...
Grooved Arete (Tryfan). A steep hour approach from the A5. Finding the start may be the crux - there is "GA" scratched on the rock if I remember. About 7 or 8 pitches. Ends on North Wales' best summit. A bit vague in the middle, but gets better and better over the last pitches.
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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Jun 21, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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I went there on a two-week climbing trip in September and the weather was great... didn't even rain once. There is a route at Cloggy that everyone told us to do called the Great Wall, 5.11 or so, really good route!
Certainly you have to visit the cenotaph corner area as well, but the sea cliffs are really cool, plus they tend to hold the weather better. Two 5.9 MUSTS, Dream of Wild Horses at Gogarth, and Preposterous Tales at Pembroke.
All around, the climbing is really good and its worth the trip so long as the weather cooperates
One last thing, DO NOT TRUST THE LOCAL CLIMBERS, they are without a doubt the worst sandbaggers on the planet, and love to prey on yosemite-hardened yanks.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jun 21, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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DO NOT TRUST THE LOCAL CLIMBERS
Amen! Met one in particular. I think his name was Brown or something. He highly recommended a route he'd just finished on the Red Wall. He seemed like a nice enough chap and I don't really think he had anything against Scots or the token wanker. It could be he really liked doing run-out chossfests in the rain in his early 50's.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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Jun 21, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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Tremadoc is great and very convenient.But it's not granite.I think its rhyolite or some other columnular volcanic rock.The Pass has the most interesting rock Ive ever climbed on.Such a variety of holds and a great feel to the rock.Many brits think Pembroke is the best crag in Britain. Can't say,Haven;t been there.Forget about Dresden.I doubt you'd leave the ground.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 21, 2009 - 06:41pm PT
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Late December can be a Very Bad Time. Unless you are from that part of the world and think climbing in heavy rain driven by a Force 8 gale is normal.
I remember climbing up a corner on some route on Cloggy. The temp was about five degrees above freezing and water was blowing upward around us. Upward. Except for the very back of the corner, where the water was pouring down. Our host thought it was hilarious. We thought it was time to go to Scotland where the water was frozen.
Oh, and even driving across Wales was an adventure because the storm had blown trees down across roads.
And for what it's worth, I didn't think much of the Llanberis Pass area. Sure Cenotaph Corner is historic and all, but if those crags were in western North America, no one would bother with them. Gogarth, on the other hand, is definitely worth a visit. Although in mid-winter the weather can easily shut you down.
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Haggis
Trad climber
Scotland
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Jun 21, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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Yeah Oct/Nov - Feb/March are best left alone in Wales if you are travelling to climb (some good winter days can be had). it dosn't get cold enough south of the border to form real ice anymore and a good year would be three day (in total) of real frozen ice climbing.
One other thing before i try and get some sleep. you must take in some historical stuff while over here. Wales has some great Castles and other older sites worth visiting.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Jun 21, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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The climbing in Wales (and the UK in general) is unique. Hard to put your finger on why exactly, except to say that the routes are just filled with character.
To get the most out of any trip to the UK you have to let the weather dictate the itinerary. Weather in the UK tends to be quite local, so if its pouring in Wales it might be OK in the Peak, Pembroke or Cornwall for example.
Regarding LLanberis, although The Cromlech is impressive, Dinas Mot and Cyrn Las may have better routes depending on what grade you are looking for.
Pembroke is a long (5hr) drive and a bit of a pain in the ass because of Bird Bans and limited access in the firing range (where many of the best walls are found)
BUT...for steep, dramatic trad routes its hard to beat...world class.
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=165
Hopefully be there myself in the fall...
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