Woodfords: The best crack climing in Tahoe, Hands down T'rad

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Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 15, 2009 - 07:23am PT
Thers is no doubt that Woodfords Canyon in Alpine co. has the best and purist crack climing in the entire Tahoe area. There are over 100 5.10 cracks that are clean and ready to climb. This area lacks the dikes and other face holds that allow easy passage, but this lack of face features enable one to push their limits with out the fear of hitting something during a fall. Excellent protection,splitter cracks and virtually no competition create the perfect opportunity to become an expert crack climber. Come on out and sample the treats. Chim-Chim
Salamanizer

Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
Jun 15, 2009 - 07:52am PT
Why don't you write a guidebook? Within months there will be a toprope strung from every route, the place will be swarming with people, trails will be stamped out to every nook and cranny, creative parking spots will be found and the crowds will grow with every passing year.

Careful what you wish for, you might just get it.

I'd enjoy the place while you can, it won't be like it is forever.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jun 15, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
You're being facetious....right? Is it really IN Tahoe? What about Grand Illusion,Star Walls @ Donner, Silly Willy and on and on....
Tahoe climber

Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
Jun 15, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
Thanks for the super positive vibes, guys.

OP: A more sincere thanks to you for reminding us of some sweet climbing.

TC
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 07:29am PT
Sure Donner Summit, Sugarloaf, and other areas have great crack climbing but how many people really climb 5.13? Not many. I know two people who have successfully redpointed Silly Willy Crack at the leap. Both are world class climbers. The only place that compares to The Woodfords for "mortal" climbers is Eagle Lake Cliff. Many 5.10 and a few excellent 5.11 cracks exist, making it a fantastic area. However for sheer numbers and variety The Woodfords is hard to beat. This area has more first ascent potential than the rest of Tahoe put together. And compared to the mileages to the other areas you mentioned it is as close or closer. Although Woodfords is not in the Tahoe Basin, either are the other areas you mentioned. So no I'm not being facetious just statisical and the numbers tell all. Come check it out and if you want to put up some 5.13 cracks they're here waiting to be uncovered.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Jun 16, 2009 - 08:20am PT
Chim-Chim,

I have driven through that canyon tens of times through the years. How is the potential for easy to moderate routes there? That is .8- mid .10. I know many areas have a lack of these these climbs because the developers climb harder. This is the level I climb and have put a bunch of climbs on Ebbetts Pass at this level. I guess I should head on up and check it out.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Oh I've climbed there...even done some FA's including King Diamond (11b)w/Crawford&Root. One of These Days is a fine one pitch route.....but that's about it... flaky rock - grovelly,bushy,sandy uphill approaches for 1/2 pitch routes relegate this area to the obscurity heap.
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
yes, a obscurity heap indead, it would be much more worth your time to go to eagle lake, or the leap. easier approaches too )))
(edit: sarcasm intended)
Shimanilami

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
Sounds awesome. Where is it, exactly?
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Jun 16, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
Nah, it's a total crap area. Not enough bolt anchors halfway up the climb so you can lower off after the piece of crack that suits your taste.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
Jun 16, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
I agree, there is better climbing in the area... Especially if you like adventurous multi pitch polished slab. As far as pure crack climbing goes, eh! It's alright if you live near by, and worth an occasional trip or two, but I'd rather just head off to the Valley.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
Whoa, sorry to have ruffled so many feathers.I apoligize for wanting to share, but since it such a choss pile I'm surprised anyone cares about it.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jun 16, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
Woodfords has some great potential , been put-zing around there since the late 70's.
But the real unclaimed last fortitude of awesome Granite is Indian rock. The cracks on the lower third will be as good as anything at the cookie and more sustained.
Once again we are at a cross roads do we tell people about the areas and make everything a Snowshed wall social event or is it best to keep our mouths shut and enjoy it for ourselves. I have other areas that we won't even talk about yet....
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jun 16, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
social event! social event!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 16, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
OK, if you want to "spread the word", I took a little time this afternoon to make a route list from the scanned Ron Anderson guidebook on the supertopo obscurities page.

[updated 6/18 with a few climbs listed on mountainproject.com]
I reordered the (100+) climbs, so they are left-to-right, in clockwise order around the canyon (like the Yosemite guidebook).
The route list, routes by grade, sortable spreadsheet, and link to the PDF guide are at:

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/wood/

The route list and routes by grade are copied below.

-----------

rev. 6/18/09
Woodfords Canyon rock climbing

This compiliation attempts to put
the routes in a continuous order - a clockwise loop
around the river valley, like the Yosemite guidebook.
The loop starts in the SE with Storm Trooper Buttress,
continues left-to-right along the south side of the river,
then covers the north side of the river, left-to-right.
Sources:
"Climbers Guide to Alternative Cragging - East Tahoe Region",
by Ron Anderson. PDF scanned version downloaded from supertopo.com 4/08.
Stars converted from 5 star to 3 star by subtracting 2 stars from all routes.
rockclimbing.com - describes 2 routes left of One of These Days (RC)
mountainproject.com - several newer routes (MP)


South Side

Storm Trooper Buttress (park near W intersection of 88 and Crystal Springs)

1. Leper Face 5.10a *, knobby face, N face, tie off knobs, 45'
2. Sergeant D 5.9+ *, RFC, W face, pro to 3"
3. Storm Troopers of Death 5.12b ***, right diagonal crack, 5 fps, pro to 2.5"
4. Speak English 5.10a/b TR, RFC to 2x anchor
5. Or Die 5.10a TR, knobby face to same anchor

Strangler Cliffs

6. Nevada/Utah Border 5.9/5.10 **, hands/fingers, W face
7. Strangle Hold 5.12a ***, thin RFC, NW face, pro to 1.5", 80'
8. Hill Side Strangler 5.11b **, thin, NW face, pro to 1.", 80'

Woodcutters Wall (50-60', 450' R of Strangler Cliff, NW face)

9. Left Branch 5.10a **, on L end, pro to 2.75"
10. Right Branch 5.8 *, pro to 2.75"

One of These Days Wall (aka King Diamond, Cloudburst Canyon)

11. un OTD arete 5.12?, __x, 40' L of un OTD face, RC
12. un OTD face 5.11 *, __x, sustained, 20' L of One of These Days, RC
13. One of These Days 5.10c ***, fingers to hand, pro to 3", 164'
14. Glory Hog 5.12a ***, 1x, traverse right under roof, partway up One of These Days, 1x
15. un OTD arete pr., L side of King Diamond p2 corner
16. King Diamond 5.11b **, 2p, 1: thin, 2: huge corner to roof, over R side, pro to 2.5"
17. Pictures of Me 5.10c **, pro to 2"
18. Bush League 5.10a *, pro to 2"
19. Little Miss Manners 5.11d **, thin

High Energy Wall

20. un HE a pr., RF arch, 1x
21. Duracell 5.11b *, 2p, chimney to thin crack, pro to 3", 160'
22. Lightning Dream 5.12d ***, 9x, arete, 85'
23. un HE b pr., 5.13a
24. Power Surge 5.11c/d, 2p, 45 degree roof crack, watch rope drag
25. Amped 5.12b **, overhanging finger crack, direct start to Proton
26. Proton 5.11b **, 2p, RFC, p2 80' to fp anchors
27. Neutron 5.10a ***, 2p, RFC, p2 80' to shared fp anchors
28. un HE c 5.9/5.10 *, 2p, 1: thin crack/flake, 2: double cracks


North Side

Henry's Unit Boulder (20' high, 100' W of Apron, about 12 problems)

The Apron - West Face

29. Apron WF left 5.8, dirty slot
30. Apron WF flared crack a 5.9+
31. Apron WF flared crack b 5.9+
32. Apron West Wall Route 5.11b *, 3x, 2 #2 TCUs, tieoff sling, to tree, 75'

The Apron - South Face

33. Jammin Me 5.11c/d *, striking crack, pro to 2"
34. old aid pr., 4x
35. Don't Let Me Down 5.7 A3, LFC, may have gone free
36. Apron SF corner 5.7, RFC
37. Freezer Box 5.9, chimney
38. Apron SF flake 5.10b/c *, thin flake, 65'

Cracker Cliff (600' L of Apron)

39. CC a pr.
40. CC b pr.
41. CJ-Eight 5.8 *, flake, pro to 2"
42. Watti-Yatti 5.10b **, 7x
43. Five Reliable Sisters 5.10a/b *
44. Piss Fir Willies 5.7 A2, pro to 1"

Orange Wall (above Apron and Cracker Cliff)

45. un Orange 5.11+, 2p, through obvious roof in center of face

White's Wall (40 min. approach)

46. Chuck's Chimney 5.9 R, 2p, LFC, flared slot/ow, pro to 4"
47. Children of the Sun 5.10b X, 2p, 1: runout 5.10+ slab, 2: RFC ow slot, pro to 4"

In the 70s

48. In the 70s 5.8/5.9, 50' fist crack, pro to 3.5"

The Fortress (30+ minute approach)

Fortress - Books (E face)

49. Fortress hand crack 5.8 **, pro to 3"
50. Fortress book 5.7 *, pro to 3"
51. Cat Scratch Fever 5.10a **, pro to 3"

52. Pillar Roof 5.11+, 2p

Donnie G (first formation reached on standard approach, 30-45 minutes, 90' below Second Alcove)

53. Arrowhead 5.11a, granite "stalactite" hanging 25' off the ground, MP
54. Whisker Biscuit 5.9 *, 15' R of Arrowhead, pillar, roof crack, upper crack, 80', MP

Fortress - Second Alcove (W face)

55. Walking Jack 5.10c *, 40' R of Whisker Biscuit, faces E, wide fist crux, pro to 3.5", 80', MP
56. I Be Jammin 5.10a **, right side, left diagonal crack to LFC, pro to 3"

Fortress - First Alcove (E face)

57. First Alcove - No Name 5.10b/c, obvious 30' LFC, R of black streak, pro to 3"

High Caliber Corridor (R from Whisker Biscuit, above 40' pine tree)

58. Un-Named 5.11a, corner crack, MP
59. Mr. Personality 5.12a *, _x arete, just R of Un-Named, optional 2" cam at start, MP

Fortress - Liebacks (S face)

60. Carabiner Crack 5.10b/c ***, left leaning crack to RFC, pro to 2.5", 3 fps
61. Sole Burner 5.10a **, 2p, 2: faces E
62. The Other Lieback 5.9 R, LFC, pro to 2.5", 75' R of Sole Burner
63. The Perfect Lieback 5.8 ***, LFC, pro to 2.5"

Fortress - Winter Prime (E face)

64. Winter Prime 5.11+ TR **, LFC, partly S facing?
65. Boulder than you Think 5.9+ *, pro to 2"
66. Pillar Face 5.10a TR, 80'
67. T-Crack 5.9 *, 2p, 1x, pro to 1"

Fortress - Sun Wall (S face, 100' R of Winter Prime area)

68. Sun Wall Left 5.10c **
69. Sun Wall Middle 5.10b *
70. Sun Wall Right 5.9+ *, LFC

71. First Crux 5.9+ *, RFC to LFC, E face, pro to 2.5"

Fortress - Red Pillar (E face, up and R of Liebacks, Sun Wall)

72. RP Chimney 5.6
73. un RP a 5.10c *, thin LFC, approach via ledges
74. un RP b 5.10c *, pro to 2.5"
75. The Red Pillar 5.9 **, LF arch to LFC, pro to 3", 100'

Fortress - Main Alcove (E face, above Sun Wall, Red Pillar)

76. Dano Bolt 5.11a **, on inside wall, fingers to fist, lightning bolt, 100'
77. Penial Pillar 5.10a *, on pillar, pro to 2.5"
78. Way the Hell up There 5.11c **, on pillar, pr to 4", starts on overhanging flake
79. Fortress MA un 5.10a *, 2p, starts just R of pillar
80. Up to Nuthin' 5.9, 3p, 1: 5.7 corner, 2: 5.9 flared crack, 3: 5.8 ow, 2 fps
81. Toprope Wall a 5.9 TR, short grey wall, 60-70'
82. Toprope Wall b 5.10d TR
83. Toprope Wall c 5.11+ TR, curving chimney and crack, has small dead tree

Far East (traverse E/R from base of Donnie G to gully)

84. Pump Factory 5.11b **, fingers to fist, on 40' boulder, uphill/E/R of TR wall, on L side of gully, MP
85. Carhartt Crack 5.9 R *, chimney w/ cracks, rap in to Work Wall from R side of gully, MP

Bertha's Boulder (40-45', roadside)

86. Bertha's ow 5.10c *, on W face, pro to 5"
87. Bertha's jam 5.8 *, jam crack above fence, pro to 3"
88. Bertha's face 5.12+ *, 1x, E face
89. Bertha's back side 5.6

Epoxy Wall (above Bertha's Boulder, old fixed ladder approach, glued on holds)

90. Epoxy L side 5.9+, LFC, can use to set up topropes
91. Epoxy a 5.11a/b *, 4x
92. Epoxy b 5.11c/d *, 4x
93. Epoxy c 5.11d/5.12a *, 5x
94. Epoxy d 5.12a/b *, 5x

Overbooked

95. Over Booked 5.9 *, obvious roof with corners above Mama Cat, 1x, pro to 2.5", 100'

Mama Cat Boulder (15' boulder, 150' from 88, park at green gate)

96. MC WF a B1, boulder problem
97. MC WF b B1, boulder problem
98. MC SF a 5.12, face
99. MC SF b 5.11c, L side of arete, 1x on top
100. MC EF a 5.10d, mantle midway
101. MC EF b 5.11b, 1x on top
102. MC EF c 5.10b, to same 1x
103. MC EF d 5.10
104. MC back side 5.6

Suicide Falls

105. Suicide Falls Left 5.9, 4p, 1: broken 100', 2: 5.8 R face, 3: corner to chim., 4: 5.9 ow, 350'
106. The Flying Block 5.10 R, 4p, 100' R of waterfall, 1: broken 5.5 120', 2: 5.10 R face, 3: R then back L, 4: 5.7 jam to bulge, 450'
107. Beulah the Pumper 5.7 R, 4p, 300' R of waterfall, 375'
-----------


List of Routes by Grade


72. RP Chimney 5.6
89. Bertha's back side 5.6
104. MC back side 5.6

35. Don't Let Me Down 5.7 A3
36. Apron SF corner 5.7
44. Piss Fir Willies 5.7 A2
50. Fortress book 5.7 *
107. Beulah the Pumper 5.7 R

10. Right Branch 5.8 *
29. Apron WF left 5.8
41. CJ-Eight 5.8 *
49. Fortress hand crack 5.8 **
63. The Perfect Lieback 5.8 ***
87. Bertha's jam 5.8 *

48. In the 70s 5.8/5.9

37. Freezer Box 5.9
46. Chuck's Chimney 5.9 R
54. Whisker Biscuit 5.9 *
62. The Other Lieback 5.9 R
67. T-Crack 5.9 *
75. The Red Pillar 5.9 **
80. Up to Nuthin' 5.9
81. Toprope Wall a 5.9 TR
85. Carhartt Crack 5.9 R *
95. Over Booked 5.9 *
105. Suicide Falls Left 5.9

2. Sergeant D 5.9+ *
30. Apron WF flared crack a 5.9+
31. Apron WF flared crack b 5.9+
65. Boulder than you Think 5.9+ *
70. Sun Wall Right 5.9+ *
71. First Crux 5.9+ *
90. Epoxy L side 5.9+

1. Leper Face 5.10a *
5. Or Die 5.10a TR
6. Nevada/Utah Border 5.9/5.10 **
9. Left Branch 5.10a **
18. Bush League 5.10a *
27. Neutron 5.10a ***
28. un HE c 5.9/5.10 *
51. Cat Scratch Fever 5.10a **
56. I Be Jammin 5.10a **
61. Sole Burner 5.10a **
66. Pillar Face 5.10a TR
77. Penial Pillar 5.10a *
79. Fortress MA un 5.10a *

4. Speak English 5.10a/b TR
43. Five Reliable Sisters 5.10a/b *

42. Watti-Yatti 5.10b **
47. Children of the Sun 5.10b X
69. Sun Wall Middle 5.10b *
102. MC EF c 5.10b

38. Apron SF flake 5.10b/c *
57. First Alcove - No Name 5.10b/c
60. Carabiner Crack 5.10b/c ***
103. MC EF d 5.10
106. The Flying Block 5.10 R

13. One of These Days 5.10c ***
17. Pictures of Me 5.10c **
55. Walking Jack 5.10c *
68. Sun Wall Left 5.10c **
73. un RP a 5.10c *
74. un RP b 5.10c *
86. Bertha's ow 5.10c *

82. Toprope Wall b 5.10d TR
100. MC EF a 5.10d

53. Arrowhead 5.11a
58. Un-Named 5.11a
76. Dano Bolt 5.11a **

91. Epoxy a 5.11a/b *

8. Hill Side Strangler 5.11b **
16. King Diamond 5.11b **
21. Duracell 5.11b *
26. Proton 5.11b **
32. Apron West Wall Route 5.11b *
84. Pump Factory 5.11b **
101. MC EF b 5.11b

12. un OTD face 5.11 *

78. Way the Hell up There 5.11c **
99. MC SF b 5.11c

24. Power Surge 5.11c/d
33. Jammin Me 5.11c/d *
92. Epoxy b 5.11c/d *

19. Little Miss Manners 5.11d **
45. un Orange 5.11+
52. Pillar Roof 5.11+
64. Winter Prime 5.11+ TR **
83. Toprope Wall c 5.11+ TR

93. Epoxy c 5.11d/5.12a *

7. Strangle Hold 5.12a ***
14. Glory Hog 5.12a ***
59. Mr. Personality 5.12a *

94. Epoxy d 5.12a/b *

3. Storm Troopers of Death 5.12b ***
25. Amped 5.12b **

11. un OTD arete 5.12?
98. MC SF a 5.12

22. Lightning Dream 5.12d ***
88. Bertha's face 5.12+ *

44. Piss Fir Willies 5.7 A2

35. Don't Let Me Down 5.7 A3
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Jun 16, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
wow so much response! If anyone thinks they know all the routes at woodfords canyon because of old information they are in for a big surprise because so many new routes have been put up in the last year. It is a beautiful area and the approaches to the climbing areas are part of the experience and keep you in good climbing shape. A guide book would be so awsome so all the new info could be shared. You would think that there would be such a positive response to the person who spent thousands of dollars and countless hours putting up these routes, and for someone to assume that the guide book was done for a buck just doesn't know the author or what he's all about. I just hope the guide book gets published so everyone now and in the future can enjoy and preserve this beautiful climbing meca.
climb on!!!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 17, 2009 - 01:02am PT
Sasha,

Is it necessary to know all the routes in Woodfords Canyon to check out some of the 5.10 cracks which Chim-Chim likes?
[to be fair, this was probably not what you meant. And I realize this list is not a substitute for a real guide, but it may be useful in the meantime]

I found the PDF guide was slightly confusing, so I made the above route list.
It suggests to me that on a first visit, One of These Days Wall, High Energy Wall, or The Fortress might be worth checking out.
Maybe if I was not so much of a guidebook fanatic, I could have figured that out without typing in all that stuff! :-)
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 07:19am PT
Clint thanks for posting the woodfords beta minus the other material from the old guide. You're right it is confusing. We're going up to High Energy Wall on Thursday... you should come. A 5.12- dihedral that "Taylor" and I worked on is an open project but no-one has led it. The start although only 5.11- it is unprotected. After some discusion with some fellow locals we decided to place two protection bolts.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 07:26am PT
Heh Mark thanks for the reminder about Indian Rock. I've never been there, but my buddy Bruce and others were there a few years ago and establish a route or two. I heard it was great.., keep up the good work. D.K.
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 17, 2009 - 10:49am PT
its about time someone does that dihedral on lead, its been sitting there clean for almost two years it seams like. if i remember right there is an arete to the left that no one has ever even tried, really nice orange and white rock.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 17, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
Have fun up there on Thursday! I gotta work, for once.... (Hitting Yosemite for the weekend, so I can't really complain).

Here's an overlay map with just a few of the crags marked (I could mark The Fortress if I was a little more sure which one it is; there are higher resolution aerial photos, too):

It's so much easier to make maps to scale these days, using google maps/satellite photos.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2009 - 07:09am PT
Heh Clint that overlay map that you posted was cool. Thanks for the feed-back. Have a good weekend.
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 18, 2009 - 12:58pm PT
Suicide falls!?! how did i never hear about that. woodfords is the crag that keeps on givin. and sweet map by the way.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 18, 2009 - 02:56pm PT
Yeah, AlDude. Hillside Strangler was fun. Momma Cat was fun. The stuff on the north side of the road is choss and this is not Tahoe!
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 18, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
if all you found on the north side was choss then you didn't hike far enough or in the right direction. give it another try and you'll be pleasantly suprised. a guidebook isn't being make for a hill of choss.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jun 18, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
choss. plus, totally invalid without pics. just sayin'.
taylor

Social climber
the local crag
Jun 18, 2009 - 03:53pm PT
check out "woodfords crack climbing mecca is lonely" and "The Leap, South Lake, etc. etc..... Will the snow ever melt?" there are a few picks of the north side in each of these. its at least worthy information to make a judgement off of. I'm also wondering what the best defenition of choss is. is it a place where people shouldn't climb? or where the rock falls to pieces? Check out the bolts still sticking to boulders below Mayhem Cove. That place actually fell apart long after the climbs were established and people still love to climb there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 18, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
Here's a photo from rockclimbing.com, of The Perfect Lieback 5.8 ***, on The Fortress (north side of canyon):


Looks like good rock to me.

Another photo of The Perfect Lieback, from mountainproject.com:


Petch's video, climbing Pump Factory 5.11+ fingers to fist:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRh4BrllnFU

"lonely":
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=875661

some routes:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/tahoe_vicinity/woodfords_canyon/106359636
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 18, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
Blue Blocker? Where is that guy?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Jun 18, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
Yes the place is a choss pile please dont come up here!!!! (sarcasm intended)
Sun Wall in winter.

Thanks for all the positive posts about the area Clint. Have been working the area with Chim-Chim for 4 years and have a deep appreciation for the area and the history. Its a place not for the faint of heart. Its not greased granite from thousands of ascents and that makes it a hell of a lot more interesting and challenging for those who want it.
We just want to share what we feel is a fun area that may be of interest to some people. If not, move on and keep the post a positive one.
Shawn
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2009 - 09:29am PT
thanks for the list Clint since the printing of the East Side guide by Ron Anderson over 100 new routes have been established. Ninety percent are 2 stars or better by your rating system. A newly established moderate area exists dierctly above the crystal springs parking area. A small east-facing alcove can be approached in just 5 minutes. Walk up the sandy bank and follow a switch-back trail up the fragile slope. The alcove sit behind two large pine trees. The corner on the left is a fun 5.9 with tricky protection at the finish, The splitter to its right is an excellent 5.9 with some pesky vegetation that is slowly deteriorating. The corner to the right of the obvious arete is a nice 5.8. These climb were cleaned and climbed in the fall of 2008. They are new, so bring a brush. The widening crack above the chain anchor has a hidden anchor on top and to the right.
The crystal springs are now has over 40 pitches of climbing.(1) 5.8's (3) 5.9,s over 20 5.10s (5) 5.11's (5) 5.12,s (3) Three pitch climbs and a tyrolean traverse oppurtunity.

This place is stellar! and new routes are being established every week. The Guide book is finished but not compiled with topos and pictures as of yet. I'm not sure how to get the info.out. Does any one know how to do it?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 19, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
Chim-Chim,

The new moderate area above the Crystal Springs parking area sounds cool.

In terms of getting the info out, the best way I know is to put it on a web page. That way, you do not have to shell out $$ to have it printed, store the books somewhere, and deal with the hassles of distributing the books. Plus you can update it anytime without obsoleting the inventory of books you printed.

You can enter routes, photos and topos on sites like mountainproject.com and rockclimbing.com, but it is a slow process. It's still worth doing on those sites for at least a few of the best routes, though.

The fastest way for me is to maintain my own web page. Instead of entering each route by hand, I have a "master list" which includes FA info and links to topos/photos. I have a small program on my PC which renumbers the routes (after I've inserted some new ones) and generates the .HTM and .XLS files from this master list, and I just upload the .HTM and .XLS files to the web page to update it.

Here is what the first part of the master file for Woodfords looks like:
---------

South Side

Storm Trooper Buttress (park near W intersection of 88 and Crystal Springs)

1. Leper Face 5.10a *, knobby face, N face, tie off knobs, 45'
FA(free solo): DO, 85
2. Sergeant D 5.9+ *, RFC, W face, pro to 3"
FA: DO, 84
3. Storm Troopers of Death 5.12b ***, right diagonal crack, 5 fps, pro to 2.5"
FA: DO, 84
4. Speak English 5.10a/b TR, RFC to 2x anchor
5. Or Die 5.10a TR, knobby face to same anchor

Strangler Cliffs

6. Nevada/Utah Border 5.9/5.10 **,.h hands/fingers, W face
FA: DO, 85
7. Strangle Hold 5.12a ***,.t thin RFC, NW face, pro to 1.5", 80'
FA: BP, 80
8. Hill Side Strangler 5.11b **,.t thin, NW face, pro to 1.", 80'
FA: BP, 80

Woodcutters Wall (50-60', 450' R of Strangler Cliff, NW face)

9. Left Branch 5.10a **, on L end, pro to 2.75"
FA: SV, BG, 85
10. Right Branch 5.8 *, pro to 2.75"
FA: SV, BG, 85
---------


Since it's a text file, it's pretty easy to add routes and change things. I'd be happy to update this to add the 100+ new routes, if you want.

I'd be happy to host any material you have on my little web page - could be a .PDF file, .DOC, .TXT, .HTM, whatever. Also maps, topos and photos. You can just email me stuff and I'll put it on there.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 19, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
Here are a couple of aerial photos from google maps of the crags near the Crystal Springs parking area:


medium resolution, with my guesses (hopefully correct) for the crag locations


highest resolution from google maps. I left my guesses out. You can save this to your PC, open in Paint, save to .BMP, and draw lines/text on it.

Aerial photos may not be ideal, because some things are obscured, but you can trace over them to create a black/white map to scale, which can be nice.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 19, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
in the BRB vein, yeah, it's all choss don't come.

......Nice work, guys.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2009 - 08:52am PT
Thanks for the positive feedback. I looking for more moderate routes to clean, unfortunately just as in yosemite the easiest cracks tend to be wide, loose and dirty. But we recently installed an anchor on a 5.8 finger crack up and to the west of High energy Wall, across the gully It was first led by Sunshine Hebert about three years ago. A rotting natural anchor provided the top-rope anchor. Bruce D. re-led the climb and placed a stainless steel fixe wedge-bolt anchor. A fifty-foot classic in your face 5.8 finger crack. We brushed it again but its still dirty. D.K.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Jun 20, 2009 - 09:01am PT
whoa! Where's sunshine these days?
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2009 - 09:05am PT
Caughtinside Sunshine is raft-guiding in B.C. this summer. She's doing great. Dan
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jun 20, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
Chim-Chim,

Does this half-pitch Tombstone Terror-like layout ring a bell?



It's completely vertical. It's right next to this:



A 5.6 crack to stem. Someone was asking earlier about 5.6-5.8 potential. Too many to count! They just haven't gotten any attention.

We didn't balance "the pointer" at the top like that. But I did sit on it dangling over 25 feet of air. Exhilarating!


It's up in here on the way to our destination:




Just a taste!

Sure wish I could see the place 100 years from now. I think it's going to evolve at a frenzy!
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jun 20, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
I'm glad I won't see the place in a hundred years... and am very happy to have experienced it 30 years ago...
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2009 - 07:48am PT
Footloose, nice pictures? Are those pictures from crystal springs? I saw the picture of the stepple A.k.a Aquliia de dread.
Did you climb up there what did you do? Three friends are up at High Energy Wall today. Were going up on Monday or Tuesday, maybe both give shout if your interestded in coming along.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jun 22, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
Chim-Chim... The crack's on Storm Trooper, right around to corner from Storm Troopers of Death. Here's another point of view:



What is it?

I'd love to see an anchor atop it. Like in the Dinosaur Rock style or the Eagle Lake Cliff style.

P.S. The camp manager in Crystal Springs (Dan Robinson) said a bear lives in the Storm Trooper Buttress! He sees it regularly.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 22, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
ya know Mark I haven't been there in a while, but I bet it's still pretty prime, right now!
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Jun 22, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
Thanks for the pic footloose (and the warning about the bear. Saw bear signs at high energy wall last week but none in cloudburst today. Come up and use those shoes to clean up the routes. They are getting better and better.
Shawn
Salamanizer

Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
Jun 22, 2009 - 11:14pm PT
Ya know, I'd been up there before but didn't remember anything worth remembering. Following this thread I realized how spread out the climbing really is. Hard to get a taste with just one visit I know, but still I'm not too impressed...

Until I read this by Burnrockburn:Have been working the area with Chim-Chim for 4 years and have a deep appreciation for the area and the history. Its a place not for the faint of heart. Its not greased granite from thousands of ascents and that makes it a hell of a lot more interesting and challenging for those who want it.

No one acquires a deep appreciation for an area unless there's something of great value there. Even if it only appeals to a small masochistic group of individuals, it has something. Then the icing on the cake... "Not for the faint of heart"... I take it that means it's beyond the "Pork Circus Perimeter". I'm sold! Worth another look me thinks.

Double Chim, Clint, Bruningrock and the rest, kudos for being so selfless and putting the info out there. Looks like it's shaping up to be a great spot. How about a tour?

Edited to correct the horribly butchered names... sorry about that!
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2009 - 07:43am PT
Salamaminizer I'd be happy to give you a tour of the area. We went to High Energy Wall yesterday and Cloudburst canyon the day before. The weather was great the sun was nice in the morning but got hot in the afternoon. Climbed a new route that Ryan C. and Mark B. cleaned last weekend a nice 5.9 warm-up. The climbs at High Energy Wall now range from 5.8 to 5.12+. including (4) 5.10's, (3) 5.11's (4) 5.12's and a possible 5.13 Project E-mail me and we'll make plans, I have off sun., mon.,Tues., and Thur. I have gear stashed at The Steeple, so we need a rack if you want to climb down low. Chow D.K.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2009 - 07:49am PT
Footloose I'll have to take a look. Are the pictures you snapped of the wide crack to the East of Storm Trooper Wall? I have Hard ware yee-haw. Give ma shout. D.K.
The

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jun 24, 2009 - 11:57am PT
Who's spewing about potential for "overuse" at Woodfords? Are you kidding?! You obviously need glasses. Try field glasses. If you want crowds and well stomped out trails, try the Valley. Woodfords could use some crowds. I've been climbing there for 10 years and have seen at least ten other parties during that time. If you want gambling, women, and to be seen, try "90 foot wall" in Eagle Creek canyon. This climbing area is where all the real heros go.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2009 - 09:21am PT
Yeah. N.F.A. See you soon Bruce
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Jun 25, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
Salamanzar
Thanks for the positive post. The Woodfords and Chim Chim have kept the spirit of climbing in my blood. Climbing to me is not always lining up to do the same old climb. (although we do a lot of times to keep the climbs clean) Its about just seeing what a new climb turns out to be. I will admit chim does most of the leading of new routes, but I'm just as happy seeing them for the second time with dirt in my teeth. I have to post a pic of us up there in the middle of summer with ski googles cleaning a gnarly, dirty, easy route. (That damn route has filled in again). Time for a bottle of roundup!!!!
Thanks again chim for all the seconds.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jun 26, 2009 - 11:34am PT
The combination of good climbing and great friends make this area, for me, the most appealing in Tahoe. A big thank you to Chim-Chim for his hard work and encouragement.
elron

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jun 26, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
Hey Chim-Chim, Kevin here. If you're interested in getting the guidebook info online in a format other than mountainproject.com or rockclimbing.com, let me know. I would be happy to host it for you. I checked out a few relevant domain names and they are available. Give me a call. If you don't have my number Ryan C. does. Give my regards to the rest of the Woodfords crew. We're enjoying a nice downpour here in VT now :)

Kevin
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 17, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
Chim-Chim,
I'm definitely up for doing "One of These Days" and checking out some of the new stuff.
But my excuse list has been a bit too long this year:
 doing multipitch Valley FAs w/ Bob before his imminent fatherhood
 having fun with Roger on the Apron
 bad ankle limiting my freeclimbing ability
and of course:
 too cheap to drive that far by myself! (unless it's to climb with Steph!).
But the lure of exploring a new area is too strong to keep me away for long....
mason805

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Sep 17, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
Looks pretty cool and sounds challenging, too.

How does one reach this area from highway 50?
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Sep 17, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
Over the river and through the Woodfords. From Meyers take 89 over Luther Pass, L on whatever highway that is at the T and you will be in the canyon-o-plenty.
mason805

Trad climber
East Bay, CA
Sep 17, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
That's ossum!

So now I have a few spots to pick from. The 90ft wall and Eagle Cliff area, Lover's Leap and then the Woodfords rock.

Thanks for all guidebooking everyone.
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2009 - 08:33am PT
Bump thanks reviving this contoversial opinion thread... I went up to Donner Summit yesterday... with Sasha, my mom and her husband. The climbing was as good as I remembered... It was very crowded, but everyone was very friendly... almost everyone stopped and talked to my family while we climbed. Thanks fro all the smiles and good energy. Imet a couple from truckee Dan and Bridgette... terrific people. Chim
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
Sep 21, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
Hey there chim-chim,
I had a great day of climbing out at Donner, my first time there. I'm not used to so many people around, but everyone seemed to be having a great time climbing and very friendly. Looking forward to going to the steeple at woodfords!!! Have fun with your mom she's awsome!
See you soon,
Sasha
213

climber
The Biggest Little City
Sep 21, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
Didn't see it mentioned here yet, but this spot also has some wild winter climbing potential...looked at it a zillion times while flying up to tha wood, but never broke out the tools. Anyone got some winter pics?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City
Sep 21, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
theres no winter activities there....shhhh
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2009 - 07:47am PT
There's some great rock-climbing on the north side of the highway... the south slopes offer some some nice ski descent possibilities... see you up there. Chim
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Sep 23, 2009 - 10:03am PT
Mark IS THAT YOU DOOOD!!??? And if so Howz it been hangin???? Yup Woodfrods 30 yrs ago was da shitz! The some retard did a guide to it LOL!!!!!! I did a route on indian years ago kinda like the regular route only loooonnnggger!! Tahoe wall is a chunk!


Very interesting that the canyon has finally come into the spotlight...
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