The Passing Of A Dear Friend......Brutus Of Wyde


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Trad climber
not very much, recently.
Jun 14, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
Here is one of those great Brutus posts I mentioned from back in the the rec.climbing days. Still good advice and funny as heck:

From - Thu Feb 6 16:33:37 1997
From: (Brutus of Wyde)
Newsgroups: rec.climbing
Subject: Re: Break into 5.10?
Date: 5 Feb 1997 00:19:28 GMT
Organization: InterServ News Service
Lines: 89
Message-ID: <5d8jmg$>
References: <>
X-Newsreader: SPRY News 3.03 (SPRY, Inc.)

> writes:
> Then its on to 5.11 (anybody have any advice on how to become solid on
> 5.11 off widths?).

Get Knee pads.
Get Elbow pads.
Get Head pads.
Get Ibuprofen in 500 tablet bottles.

Read Sado-masochist periodicals.

Put together a rack of big pieces.

Study and practice offwidth and chimney techniques,
such as helmet, pack and rack towing, chicken wings,
arm bars, kneelocks, elbow locks, hand stacks,
gastons, prayer jams, foot stacks, hip bridges,
Leavittation, and perversion.

Do lots of Vee-sit-ups

Lead, follow, or toprope every chimney and
offwidth you can find. repeatedly. till you puke.
Then do it some more.

Follow Dr. Offwidth around Yosemite Valley for
a summer.

Recommended climbs, Yosemite:
Steck Salathe'
Yosemite Point Buttress
N. Face of the Rostrum, taking the wyde cracks.
Generator Crack
The Burner
"Horrow Frake" pitch on Salathe' Wall
"The Groove" pitch on lower Magic Mushroom
Twilight Zone
Owl Roof
The OW pitches on Excalibur
and many, many others...

Recommended climbs, Joshua Tree:
Deep Throat
El Rey
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
and many, many others.

Recommended climbs, High Sierras:
Lover's Leap: Eyores Enigma
Stonehouse Chimney
Pratts Crack
East Face Keeler Needle
Direct East Face Mt. Whitney
Direct East Face Tulainyo Tower
Instant Espresso on The Duck
Regge Pole East Face Dihedrals
JCAs Wide World of Sport

Paisano Overhang

Red Rocks:
Crimson Chrysalis (Face holds are off!)

Then you're ready to take a trip to

Note that these climbs are recommended for
the wide crack sections, and recommendation
does not necessarily indicate that the climb
is overall high quality, although many are.

Hope this helps.

Brutus of Wyde
Still working on the proud 5.4 offwidth
Oakland, California
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Seriously, Man, I didn't know she was Your sister.
Jun 14, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
Oh yeah.

Hey, that's a great Wide Tour, Huh?
World Class.

Brutus. They broke the Mold on that one.
Jerry Dodrill

Sebastopol, CA
Jun 15, 2010 - 12:22am PT
Dingus, love this pic of yours. Are you going up this weekend?

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 15, 2010 - 01:51am PT
you are missed my friend...

"Homer said one excellent thing:
'A generation of men is like a generation of leaves.'
But few who hear this with their ears
take it to heart; for the hope that grows in the breast
of the child remains in every man.
So long as he keeps' his beautiful bloom,
he happily lays impossible plans.
He does not think he will ever age or die;
in health; he has no fear of disease.
Those whose minds are so disposed are fools to
to forget that life and youth are brief.
But you, being so advised, should boldly indulge
to the end of life in all its joys.

Being human, never declare what tomorrow will be
or say how long prosperity will last.
No dragonfly shifts as quickly."

fragment from Simonides of Ceos

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 15, 2010 - 02:51am PT
glad this was the first thing I saw on the Taco. Thx Anders!

Brutus would laugh at our silly somberness. Instead he would ask us "wanna go climb something?" :)

The memory remains.

With that memory, we honor those that have gone before with the gift of today...


Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2010 - 04:47am PT
Munge and I made our mentor proud this weekend by touching the summit of the above photo......Brutus style.

You were right there with us as we toasted your wisdom, humor and Brutusisms.....Sapporo on the summit and Gatoritas at base camp!

I love and miss you Bruce!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Jun 15, 2010 - 08:11am PT
Way to go guys.

Congrats. You did Brutus proud.


Jun 15, 2010 - 08:56am PT
I never met the man. I wish I had.
The Chief

Trad climber
from the Land where Free Mongols still roam!
Jun 15, 2010 - 10:35am PT
I don't know about you all, but the dude is still alive and kicking in my life!!!

Was using his 36 volt Bosch the day before yesterday to replace some manky old anchors here locally on the Eastside. Looked over to my left, and there the Wyde dude was, with that smirk he always gave me before his proverbial mumble:

"You're making me breath hard again Chief. BTW, we better think about getting the fk outta here fast... hee hee hee!"

Just as he did so many times some two years ago on one of our FA's ("What a Gift") together as a t-storm rumbled to our left, way up in the Realm of the Sierra Mountain Gods...


Trad climber
Jun 15, 2010 - 01:34pm PT
Hard to believe it's been a year.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2010 - 03:00pm PT
On Saturday Daphne and I climbed Washington Coloum Direct; my first OW 34 yrs ago and the climb that further corrupted a relatively corrupt 19 yr old into a life of adventure. I can't help thinking that the timing of this was a Brutus rumble through the force!

Big Wall climber
Jun 15, 2010 - 03:30pm PT
jaybro, congrats on your offwidth reunion. you make campolindo proud. i think it's cool that doing offwidth will always make us think of brutus. shipoopoi

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 15, 2010 - 04:03pm PT
Thx, and amen on that last part, Steve!

Ps, you do pretty good by Miramonte, yourself.

Trad climber
Sep 24, 2010 - 02:58pm PT
Here's an excellent trip report that just popped up on an unrelated google search:


In the land of the highest, harshest mountains on the planet, humans
have developed a way of tending to spiritual concerns while
concentrating their time and efforts on more immediate matters like
survival. From porches, housebeams, trees, and from rough rock cairns on
the highest mountain passes, they string prayer flags. The Windhorse, a
mystical creature, carries prayers from the flags to the heavens on the
wings of the wind. Ubiquitous in the Himalayas, prayer flags are seldom
seen in the West. Thus were my partners and I surprised and pleased this
summer when approaching Stonehouse in the southern Sierra of California,
to see tattered prayer flags fluttering in the ever-present breeze.

South Face Lone Pine Peak: Brutus approaching the big roof on the 8th pitch during the first ascent of Windhorse.

Social climber
Bay Area
Nov 27, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
Climbed the Flatiron in the Pinnacles on Turkey Day.
Only about 10 ascents since April 2009. When it was climbed by Brutus of Wyde.
I never met Brutus but know a few who climbed with him. Spent a moment or two in silence. Thinking of Brutus, Em and his friends.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 7, 2011 - 11:05am PT
Hey, wanna go climbing?

Brutus wouldn't want me going on about the date in particular, but getting some climbing done, now that's Brutus style.

i think there is a cam that needs to be recovered, or possibly some 'spring' skiing. hrm weather is looking good.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 7, 2011 - 11:31am PT
Credit: Jaybro
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Run like the wind.
Jun 7, 2011 - 11:33am PT
Yes, the cam. Its still too early in the season though. If the sun is gonna come out I could see Sonora Pass in my near future...


Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 7, 2011 - 06:26pm PT
no way ding, that snow ain't gunna stick up thar. That thing was bone dry all the way up and down, except for a patch up high. (i call it a cheat-snow)

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Run like the wind.
Jun 7, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
Cool! How'd ya get across the river Munge?

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