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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Yes, hooks larger than the standard BD ones...
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 25, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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I'm thinking about throwing one of these on my trad rack to start fiddling around with hand placements with it. A couple questions:
a) Disregarding the obvious learning curve right now, will it work hand placed as a piece of passive pro in my kit, or should its placement be backed up by a more traditional piece of pro if I plan on getting more than a few moves above it?
b) Considering that I want to start with just a single (though with my collection compulsion I doubt that will last), and that most of my climbing is done on Sierra granite with a fair amount of Pinnacles choss thrown in for variety, what size would be best?
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Oct 26, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
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Get two mediums, a left and a right, and play with them. There is a crappy bouldering area that has been, unfortunately, been trashed by high school parties that makes a great place to aid practice boulder. Yeah, find a place like that. Jump around and see what holds. Keep a close hold on the upper part of your aider when you bounce test or wear your safety glasses!
They are an amazing tool, you can hand place them in surprising spots, they scar the rock less than other tools for the size, and are really conducive for "creating" clean placements. Wouldn't leave home without them.
Moses Logan hooks are awesome, too!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 26, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
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Mr here, loks easy from
I have used the equivalent peckers and they are a free climbing secret weapon.
Agains advice I have torque'd them into place and they have stood up to short falls
alone that is scary but in some thin cracks they are much more bomber than the same size wire.
I will try and add a picture.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Oct 27, 2014 - 08:47am PT
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Howie Felderbush
Feb 8, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
I need to get a bunch of those chisels to do my first route on El Cap. I can pretty much make any holds I want with those? Chipping is cool!
Someone doesn't have much experience placing heads properly. Silly freeclimbers.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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#2 ftw! Thanks for the advice, guys.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Dec 16, 2014 - 09:57am PT
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Bump. Just a favorite thread, real info, minimal spew.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 16, 2014 - 10:58am PT
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they make great x-mas gifts!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Dec 16, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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I was just thinking that very thing.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 16, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Be careful - they will put holes in your stockings. And on the forearms of your favourite climbing sweater.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
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Dec 16, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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That'll be sweet....for a more Manly look!
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