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climbrunride
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Jun 12, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
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Nice TR. Glad you had a fun time.
I was up there on the 5th and it was windy, cold and we got rained on during the last two pitches. Yuk! Looked much better for you. The 5.9 on the 6th (?) pitch was impressively glassy - my shoes were squeaking on it.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 12, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
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Great job, guys!
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Jun 13, 2009 - 12:10am PT
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Nice work man. That run out pitch is SPICY!!!
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hollyclimber
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Jun 13, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
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Climbed this last week. DEFINITELY evidence of Rockfall on the left side. We rapped on the left side alternate raps (not recommended although I have not rapped the route either) and found lots of freshies, rocks and dust, on the ground and on the big ledge one rap off the ground.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Jun 13, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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Thanks Clint for the info.
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Moquah
Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
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Jun 14, 2009 - 10:00am PT
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Did this about five years ago with Larry S. Great route! I remember one pitch being very run-out and another being very hard; must be pitch 6 and 5 respectively. What I remember with the most vivid recall though was looking up at the continuation route Galactic Hitchhiker and thinking Wow!! Don
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 16, 2009 - 12:09am PT
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Nice TR. I wonder if the Variation you guys did was put in by the Galactic Hitchhiker team when they did their route from the top of Goodrich to the rim. It's a bit of a detour off right and left (adds an additional pitch, but you get to clip some bolts)
The Original pitch to the bottom of the chimney pitch is a more straight run from the pitch 4 belay, but the only pro is one rusty set of stacked pins. Dicey! You could fall 200 feet.
Having done this route more than any man alive, it's unlikely I'd fall on it but actually did once, early in the morning when trying to make time on Galactic Hitchhiker. I got slightly off route and some dirt and ball bearings on the slipperly slab got me and I went 15 or 20 feet (good to fall early) Factor 2 on the belay but the slabiosity made it a trivial catch. We went on to send the route.
For some folks, it could be a plan to climb two more pitches from Goodrich (can be combined into one) and from there you can rap to the Hang (just barely) on top of pitch 7 of Hall of Mirrors. That way you can TR some glassy 5.11 and 10+ slab on the way down without having to take 40 foot slow motion sliders on rusty bolts.
Peace
Karl
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jun 16, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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Yay slab.
Did it a few years back. Stellar and slick.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jun 16, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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Beautiful rock, route and climb. Thanks for the pics and inspiration. Gotta quit this full time job.....
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Jun 16, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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It's a great route and your pics brought it all back. Last time I did it we ended up rapping down in the dark. Between the 3 of us we only had 1 headlamp! Good to see it in good light. Thanks, Zander :-)
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 18, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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I did Goodrich Right in the 70's. Was a great climb. Runout in places.
Then we proceeded up to the Oasis. I recall grass filled corners with sparse pro and some 5.8+ to 5.9 runout.
Rapped the Roher chains down past Coonyard.
Was a fine, long day.
Has anyone else gone that way to the Oasis lately?
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