Goodrich Pinnacle Right TR 6/7/09

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Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
Goodrich Pinnacle Right TR 6/7/09
Here’s a few pics of this great route.
This deer was not impressed with us and only moved away under protest.


The first couple of pitches, are fun and moderate. Here’s a pic looking down pitch 3, 5.7. This was moderate as well, and fun.


Here’s a pic looking up P4.

This pitch has short section of slick friction moves after the one bolt, 5.8, kind of a warm up for what’s above.

I lead P5. It is a bit run out but there is good pro at the 5.9. I thought I was getting the tough pitch but this 5.9 is not that bad.

Here is a pic of P6.

This is the real deal. Even following was thought provoking. We went down and left after the last bolt. The runout is long after this but the holds seem huge after the early slickness.

P7 is just fun.


There are some pretty nice views up here.


Here’s Bob on top of the Pinnacle.


Yours Truly on the rappel.


Another nice day. See you on the rock.
Zander

Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Jun 11, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
Thanks!
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Jun 11, 2009 - 07:42pm PT
Yow!

Zander and Bob gettin' it done! Thanks for the pics! :)
rockermike

Mountain climber
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
Thanks for posting.
I've been meaning to get back up there but wanted a little more beta. Last time I did it I followed pitch 5 (right tending 5.9 in book) and found it about 10c above only one manky pin. I guess I wasn't following the path of least resistance but I've been a bit terrified of that pitch ever since. ha

Not so bad you say? I'll have to look around a bit more next time. I found the next pitch not that bad myself.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
right....to....the...point.

thanks, that rock looks killer.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
Did you see any evidence of rock fall on the LEFT side as was reported some time back on ST? Sounded like it started near the top? Whatever, it goes without saying great classic route.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
Thanks for sharing your fine outing. No thunder, I guess.


Rockermike- It sounds like you were on the straight up P5- higher pucker factor.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
slab bump
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jun 11, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
Very cool, Zander! Looks like a fun route, and well-documented by you guys. Thanks for the TR!
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
Jun 11, 2009 - 09:44pm PT
nice pics, thanks for sharing!
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
Rockermike,
I think you did get off route on P5. The way I went is straight up to the nest of pins. I put a black Alien in next to it- probably would have held. (I know, I know, fricken Aliens. Got to get them off Bob's rack) then you go directly right and even a little down. Just as you start to feel you are a little out there, two bolts appear. A few moves later you get the good 3/4" cam that's on the Supertopo. the 5.9 is right after that so you are solid.

Here's more info on this route and Clint's topo which shows the bolts.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=578909&msg=579154#msg579154

Climb On!
Zander
rhyang

climber
SJC
Jun 11, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
Nice !
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jun 11, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
purdy cool!
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jun 11, 2009 - 10:51pm PT
Zing.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jun 12, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
Looks Awesome!

Thanks for posting!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 12, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
yes indeed!
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
Jun 12, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
Awesome.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 12, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
Charlie D.,

> Did you see any evidence of rock fall on the LEFT side as was reported some time back on ST? Sounded like it started near the top?

The possible rockfall zone previously discussed is above the top of Goodrich Pinnacle, probably slightly left of the Goodrich to Oasis route.

Eric McAuliffe

Trad climber
Alpine County, CA
Jun 12, 2009 - 06:43pm PT
bump for climbing content!!!!and a cool looking climb thats on my list.


E
scuffy b

climber
Sinatra to Singapore
Jun 12, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
Very cool, Zander.
Thanks.
climbrunride

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Jun 12, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
Nice TR. Glad you had a fun time.

I was up there on the 5th and it was windy, cold and we got rained on during the last two pitches. Yuk! Looked much better for you. The 5.9 on the 6th (?) pitch was impressively glassy - my shoes were squeaking on it.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jun 12, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
Great job, guys!
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Jun 13, 2009 - 12:10am PT
Nice work man. That run out pitch is SPICY!!!
hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
Jun 13, 2009 - 12:26pm PT
Climbed this last week. DEFINITELY evidence of Rockfall on the left side. We rapped on the left side alternate raps (not recommended although I have not rapped the route either) and found lots of freshies, rocks and dust, on the ground and on the big ledge one rap off the ground.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jun 13, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
Thanks Clint for the info.
Moquah

Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
Jun 14, 2009 - 10:00am PT
Did this about five years ago with Larry S. Great route! I remember one pitch being very run-out and another being very hard; must be pitch 6 and 5 respectively. What I remember with the most vivid recall though was looking up at the continuation route Galactic Hitchhiker and thinking Wow!! Don
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:09am PT
Nice TR. I wonder if the Variation you guys did was put in by the Galactic Hitchhiker team when they did their route from the top of Goodrich to the rim. It's a bit of a detour off right and left (adds an additional pitch, but you get to clip some bolts)

The Original pitch to the bottom of the chimney pitch is a more straight run from the pitch 4 belay, but the only pro is one rusty set of stacked pins. Dicey! You could fall 200 feet.

Having done this route more than any man alive, it's unlikely I'd fall on it but actually did once, early in the morning when trying to make time on Galactic Hitchhiker. I got slightly off route and some dirt and ball bearings on the slipperly slab got me and I went 15 or 20 feet (good to fall early) Factor 2 on the belay but the slabiosity made it a trivial catch. We went on to send the route.

For some folks, it could be a plan to climb two more pitches from Goodrich (can be combined into one) and from there you can rap to the Hang (just barely) on top of pitch 7 of Hall of Mirrors. That way you can TR some glassy 5.11 and 10+ slab on the way down without having to take 40 foot slow motion sliders on rusty bolts.

Peace

Karl
Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Jun 16, 2009 - 12:27am PT
Yay slab.

Did it a few years back. Stellar and slick.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jun 16, 2009 - 01:12am PT
Beautiful rock, route and climb. Thanks for the pics and inspiration. Gotta quit this full time job.....
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Jun 16, 2009 - 01:14am PT
It's a great route and your pics brought it all back. Last time I did it we ended up rapping down in the dark. Between the 3 of us we only had 1 headlamp! Good to see it in good light. Thanks, Zander :-)
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jun 18, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
I did Goodrich Right in the 70's. Was a great climb. Runout in places.
Then we proceeded up to the Oasis. I recall grass filled corners with sparse pro and some 5.8+ to 5.9 runout.
Rapped the Roher chains down past Coonyard.
Was a fine, long day.

Has anyone else gone that way to the Oasis lately?
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