Castle Rock Spire (Sequoia NP) Gully Conditions?

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mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 8, 2009 - 11:53am PT
Anyone been up to Sequoia and scoped a view of The Fin and CRS from Moro Rock or along the High Sierra Trail? Snow still in the gully? Shooting for the spire soon....inquiring folks wanna know.
MB of the Central Valley

climber
kingsburg, CA
Jun 8, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
I am guessing "snow in the gully" is a good thing in that waterless place, thousands of feet above the river (or are there springs up there?)

Always wanted to touch that stone. Someday...
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Jun 9, 2009 - 02:52am PT
If you make it up there and onto that thing you gotta post a trip report....that place has always had a bit of a mystique for us Central Cal folks. Not many dudes stand on top of that thing. Good luck.
Send

Boulder climber
Three Rivers, California
Jun 9, 2009 - 03:55am PT
Was at Moro 2day and did not see any noticable snow patches. Be safe w/ those tics, poison oak, and illegal pot farms. One was busted @ 6000' a little while ago.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 9, 2009 - 04:28am PT
If you haven't seen this already, check out Brutus' retro TR of his July 1993 ascent:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=62213

And his photo of the summit register in May 2002, after the FA of Cinco de Mayo:
Looks like it got several ascents by the top climbers in the 50s.

1st ASCENT
CASTLE ROCK SPIRE
-------------------------

APR 27, 1950
WILL SIRI
AL STECK
PHIL BETTLER
BILL LONG
JIM WILSON
-------------------------

2nd ASCENT
MAY 28, 1950
JOHN SALATHE'
ANTON (Ax) NELSON
DAVID HAMMACK
MANFORD SAMUELSON?
R M_
CHARLY C_
(15 hours)
-----------------------

3rd Ascent
June 17-18, 1954
ROY GORIN
MIKE SAY___
12 hours
------------------

4th Ascent
October 1, 1955
MARK POWELL
DON WILSON
5 1/2 hours
-----------------

5th Ascent
June 10, 1956
Charles Wilts
Jerry Gallwas
7 1/2 hours
-----------------

6th Ascent
July 22, 1956
Mark Powell
John Ohrenschall
7 1/2 hours
------------------

7th Ascent
Jun 21, 1959
T.M. Herbert
_ Revich?
__ hours

Not hard to find this, thanks to a vastly improved search capability on supertopo!
MB of the Central Valley

climber
kingsburg, CA
Jun 9, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
Echoing DMT, please post up, no matter what the outcome. I need more reasons not to try it myself.
Radish

Trad climber
Seki, California
Jun 10, 2009 - 12:24am PT
Im always interested in hearing about the Castle Rock Spire, especially the approach. I think that maybe Ive been there more than anybody, over 20 times, but have never climbed anything. Mooch has been out there on about 6 of those trips a couple of years back when we set out to break the curse of the approach that many say is the crux of the climb. We took a ghostbusters attitude and went in different ways each time trying to find the best way that had the least amount of Poison Oak. In the end, there is no easy way and everywhere we went had Poison Oak, all the way up to the Spire. The rattlers are as big around as my wrists and the ground moves with bugs and ants. Flies are constantly buzzing around your face. It made me think of jungle movies Id seen. We did a water stash only to come back later and find it dug up and empty with teeth marks in all the containers. We hid a full rack with Cams with Stoppers and Jugs and Bolts only to come back later to find water had gotten into the bag and all the Cams were stuck and oxidized worthless. Ticks are a certainty. The place is jinxed and so Im always interested in hearing about trips out there. Some of you know all this already and still I hope to go and climb the Spire and know the way pretty good if you your interested..

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jun 10, 2009 - 01:00am PT
Guy Keesee made this entry..

Route Climbed: Regular Route Date Climbed: May 1991

With Kris Solem, Kris was able to free every inch of the climb with no falls and no hangs, first try. I got my butt up it by using every trick in my book. This is one of my all time goals and standing on it's top was pretty awsome. The hike in was not to hard, the PO suits worked, we found no ticks, no snakes and plenty of water and good camping on some ledges on the Fin.

I recommend this climb!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Jun 10, 2009 - 03:52am PT
bump climbing content
mooch

Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2009 - 11:41am PT
Kris, Guyzo, Jan, Rene and several others have "heard" me countless times anoounce I was going for it, year after year, only for something to come up (ie partners balking, finding partners to suffer with, bad excuses etc). Finally making it a reality! Got a great partner to boot......ol' Brutus Of Wyde! Damn good fella! Too bad Nurse Ratchet, Dingus and Munge couldn't get out there with us. :( Checked NOAA today....looking like low 40's for day time temps at 7700'. Isn't it June? Ahhhh.....nothing like a tad bit of suffering. Guess the rattlers with be hunkered down in their tubular down "jackets".

Yep, Brutus and I will post a photo TR when all is said and done.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 12, 2013 - 03:21am PT



Sadly I would never hear Brutus and Dave's intended trip and trip report.
Brutus died en route to this climb. He was to meet up with Dave. An unfulfilled invite. An unfulfilled approach. An unfulfilled ascent.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 12, 2013 - 05:03am PT
Well known here....
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/880640/The-Passing-Of-A-Dear-Friend-Brutus-Of-Wyde

And mooch did get back in 2010 and did the route with Mungeclimber; the photo TR is here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1195536/Castle-Rock-Spire-Trip-Report-pics-Munge-and-Mooch

Vimeo version:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1740524/Remembering-The-Dean-Of-Obscurities-Brutus-Of-Wyde
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