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Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Jun 7, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
.........not to forget all those Sherpa & Balti & other folks schleppin' loads who die in the line of fire.

the Moon and Antarctica
Jun 7, 2009 - 07:29pm PT

Social climber
So Cal
Jun 7, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
Dick Webster 2008(on the right)(never got to meet him)
Woody Stark 2009 (center)

Pre Andes trip in the Very early 60's

Tobin Sorensen is another to add to your list.
Don't remember the year.

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Jun 7, 2009 - 07:44pm PT
From Yosemite:

Jim Baldwin, Jim Madsen, and Frank Sacherer


Social climber
way out there
Jun 7, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
Eckhardt Grassman '79 avalanche
John Lauchlan '82 avalanche
Kim Momb '86 avalanche
David Cheesmond '87
Tom Thomas '87
Gary Silver '88
Mugs Stump '92 avalanche
Steve Massioli avalanche
Otto and Max Vaclavek '07

so we don't forget...
amy skinner

Social climber
lander, wyoming
Jun 7, 2009 - 09:17pm PT
Thanks for remembering.


Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 7, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
Nice Todd stuff!

Kelly Bell,
Scotty Hynz
jon Rutt
Jim Adair

Jun 7, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
"I have a conversation over beers last night about how it is dangerous being about 40 and at the Top in Outdoor Adventures."

An observation and a comment.

At any given time "being at the top" involves just a single individual. The subset of persons concerned with the question is, by definition, near vanishing.

I think the question pre-supposes something. My experience has taught me the range of human ability in any given activity borders on ten to the one hundredth power and there are millions of different activities in which one can become interested.

Within such a reality I have to ask. Just what is "being on top" supposed to mean?

Is it not just a concept we push into places that feel empty so that they do not feel quite so empty?

What do you suppose any of the named individuals would have said were they asked whether they were "at the top?" More likely than not they were just amazed at how interesting each day was. And wanted to do it some more.

"At the top" is a concept we manufacture and impose upon others because it serves some need of ours.

It is very sad when someone who finds each day amazing passes on. But is it not at least as sad when someone who has never gone to bed with a full stomach and has died before having their head above water, for even a moment?

I don't mean to criticize here. I am just asking. We believe we know the direction in which North lies. Do we? Really?
john hansen

Jun 7, 2009 - 10:13pm PT
Two words you see a lot when you read the Himalaya section of the American Alpine Journal.

"and Tragedy"

Jun 7, 2009 - 10:20pm PT
in february this year, the cold smoking arc of my fast moving friend, rob hart, ended very sadly, at distance from a tree.

at a high camp in the enchantments, the whole crew coveting my slinglite chair inspired him to build a business around an idea he hatched while leading for outward bound. he named it for the creek that tumbles off of beartooth plateau to water the valley that harbors his family's ranch. perhaps you've nested your bum in a crazy creek chair.

his zesty, generous laugh will rise from the river, echo within the canyon, and be rekindled where it flourished, alongside his branch of the yellowstone

Social climber
Way Out There
Jun 7, 2009 - 10:48pm PT

Boardman and Tasker.

Ice climber
Jun 7, 2009 - 11:04pm PT

There are too many.........

Catherine Freer
Sue Nott
Michael Bearzi
Cameron Tague

the list goes on.................

Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
Jun 7, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
if you climb you may choose...if it is sad ,don't climb......stay home and watch tv.......

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 7, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
sir loin, I think you're missing the point of the thread, moron.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jun 7, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
That may be EXACTLY the point......We live, then we die.
What tragedy, exactly?
It's our job to die.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 7, 2009 - 11:26pm PT

Social climber
Ruby Range
Jun 8, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Hopefully, I will "fall in the field", too.
No better place....& it is our fate.
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
Jun 8, 2009 - 12:10am PT
I've lost many friends myself...and i'm not a moron...I'm an idiot...don't be stupid, all these people knew what they where doing, they need a wake, not pity party..

Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
Jun 8, 2009 - 12:11am PT
Kevin Bein

Big Wall climber
total Disarray
Jun 8, 2009 - 12:12am PT
Skinner died of laziness.
Too bad, I liked him.

Boulder climber
Jun 8, 2009 - 01:19am PT
Oxymoron - kind of disrespectful post.

I'm guessing you mean't well, but I don't think this the place to point out mistakes,faults,etc. Just pay tribute and remember those who are no longer in our midst.



Social climber
It's like FoCo in NoCo Daddy-O!
Jun 8, 2009 - 02:13am PT
You're all "in the field" right now. It's just that most of you don't know it.
Fall rightly.

Social climber
Ruby Range
Jun 8, 2009 - 02:13am PT
Be a good reminder to folks still out there, eh?
Some actions aren't necessarily respectful. or worthy of respect.
Have a nice day.

Jun 8, 2009 - 02:23am PT
Scott McAndrews

Who knew better than all of us
That to be at the top of your game
Meant to love and serve those around you
Greg Barnes

Jun 8, 2009 - 03:13am PT
Pat Savageau, 2000, at the Needles

only 20 years old, and had already bagged the FA of Air Sweden (5.13 R) at Indian Creek

just moved from the sun to the shade, cold & windy, rushing to get the wind jacket on, didn't finish the knot, which was hidden under the wind jacket...
corniss chopper

Mountain climber
san jose, ca
Jun 8, 2009 - 04:32am PT
He was all of us.

A Thank you will never be enough.
I never knew this guy or the thousands of others who have
paid the price, but we'll never count the cost!


Dingus Milktoast

Jun 8, 2009 - 09:02am PT
We're tribal - of course we celebrate amd honor our fallen brothers and sisters. That's what tribes DO. What do you expect???


Trad climber
Jun 8, 2009 - 09:10am PT
Good posts, Peter Haan and corniss.

Dying while defending our freedom ranks far higher, in my mind, than climbing.

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Jun 8, 2009 - 09:42am PT
Though I would argue that the folks listed above and many others also died defending our freedom. At the very least the freedom of individuals to choose. Certainly they were not sent forth into battle by orders of a command structure. They choose of their own free will to enter the fray. Certainly they were not sent to destroy an enemy. They went to expand the human potential. There is a poignant grace and greatness to that.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 8, 2009 - 10:30am PT
Greg B, thanks tons for remembering Pat Savageau. He and I climbed together back March, 1999 for awhile, starting at Pacific Edge Gym and then the Valley. I think he was gone within six months, though, September 4, 2000. What a shock and agony. His poor parents too. Mike and Ann Savageau. They came out from Ann Arbor after the accident; his mother---an artist---created a site-specific event in his memory at his college at UCSC. Many were devastated.

He had tremendous drive and an excellent body type for upper level climbing---- shorter, very high strength-to-weight ratio, really powerful back and toes. And a really decent, bright guy. His dad was chairman of the Dept of Microbiology at U of Mich/Ann Arbor. Pat died on "On Thin Ice" in the Needles above Lake Isabella, CA. lowering off from the anchors and fell screaming.

He certainly would have continued on to climb at the very highest level; in fact he was already approaching that state at the age of 20 as you note. He would have used his life "to spend it for something that would outlast it" as I quote William James upthread here. My post was not so much about war but in a more general sense, one's life is best lead by being part of things larger than it--- great work of all or any kind.

Here he is 17 months before his death on Peter Pan, Yosemite.

Jerry Dodrill

Sebastopol, CA
Jun 8, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Thanks for stepping up to the plate on this Zombi. It will be a long list. Here are links to the previous memorial threads.



tinker b

the commonwealth
Jun 8, 2009 - 11:47am PT
joe crowe-christmas 2002- zodiac
a flame that burns twice as bright can not always burn for so long.
susanna lantz- 2008 - canadian rockies
scotty mcandrews- 2006- mamoth ski patrol
matt baxter 1996 - zenyata mendata
although i wish they were still around, i am a better person when i try to adopt their strengths to keep their spirits alive.
peace, jo-lynne

Trad climber
the cliffs of insanity
Jun 8, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
Christopher Purnell

Many Others............
seamus mcshane

Jun 9, 2009 - 10:41am PT
Frank Gambalie 6/9/1999. RIP.

Trad climber
Jun 9, 2009 - 11:04am PT
Brian Hall, Jerry Cooke, and Kelly James. They had done a winter ascent of the North face couloir on Mt Hood and were caught by a storm on the summit 2 1/2 years ago. Hall and Cooke's bodies have never been found. Kelly was found frozen in a snow cave near the top. I was on the mountain regularly during that storm, and it was the horrendous gusts that would come in and try to rip you off the moutain that was out of the normal. My feeling is the missing boys were plucked from the summit by those gusts, and they are encased in the glaciers far below.
During the storm after about 4 days there was a window in the storm that opened up for a few minutes at night. The clouds went away, the wind stopped, and the stars came out. It was very very quiet and still and eerie, and for some reason it was then I knew they were gone. Before I had always held out hope. An hour later the storm was back and raged on for days.

Ice climber
Jun 9, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
Bruce Andrews.......just going to work guiding someone who wanted to climb Foraker.


Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jun 13, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
A few more ...
Gary Lee
Albert Dow
Bob Hritz
Andy Cox
Diana Hunter
The Warbler

the edge of America
Jun 26, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
Here's a few more:

Tim Harrison
John Mokri
Frank Sacherer
Bob Locke
Randy Grandstaff
Jack Dorn
Alan Bard
Pete Barton
Jim Madsen

Climbing can be a cruel mistress...

Galen Rowell
Steve McKinney
Wolfgang Gullich
Bev Johnson

Cars, planes and helicopters in the field.

Social climber
Jul 6, 2009 - 03:47am PT
hey there say, all...

for each and every climber, there was a blood line that birthed them...

somehow the love of the great outdoors was birthed into each new generation...

me and mark (chappy) and our kin, we had an auntie...

she wasn't a climber, but she was turning 80 and she died and fell treking through the greatoutdoors (across her own pond)... she fell through the ice and drowned, doing what she had done all her life...

and for 80-such years...

may the true love of the great outdoors and the love for climbing or treking or whatever way you show it, be yours----and hopefully are a full long time longer than you'd ever expect it...

wishing you all long golden years, before you reach trail's end... best wishes to each and every one of you...
and respected and honor to those that have fallen in the great outdoors...

Jul 6, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
Please add perhaps the greatest US climber no one ever heard of outside of Montana: Dwight Bishop.

Dwight fell on his SECOND free solo of the Grand Traverse (enchainment of all the major Teton mountains) warming up in preparation for the first ever, never attempted, winter Free-solo attempt.

Local climbers donated his gear to SAR and finished the 3rd edition Butte guidebook he had started.


Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 6, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
'Tis a sad list.
My condolences to all that have lost loved ones, doesn't matter
how or why. Their losses are unfathomable.

Trad climber
Jul 6, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
my friend and central Texas climbing legend and and all around badass Kirk Holladay passed on the 27th of last month

Jul 6, 2009 - 04:07pm PT
Charlie Borgh 2006

Social climber
Jul 6, 2009 - 05:20pm PT
Darryl Hatten
Alan Miller and his girlfriend on Cathedral Peak
Jergan ? also on Cathedral Peak
Charlie Jenkawitz guiding on Rock Warrior, Red Rocks.
Many more.

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Jul 6, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
For me this spiral of sadness started in Feb of 04 with the tragic loss of Red Rock local Jules George and has marched on unabated ever since. So many great folks gone.
Please be kind to one another and tell your loved ones how you feel. Peace.

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jul 6, 2009 - 05:57pm PT

Jaybro mentioned John Rutt
Chiloe covered Albert Dow

I toss one out for Deb Sleven.

Jul 6, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
jonathan morrison 91'

soloing around mariolumne dome
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Jul 6, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
The following friends deaths are some of the reasons my handle is "climbing dropout".

Guy Edwards - Devilís Thumb, NW face, Alaska 2003
Jim Haberl - Ultima Thule, Alaska, 1999
Keith Flavelle - Mount Logan, Yukon 1986

These guys were great people, but sadly, they were driven too hard.

There were things my friends were doing I just didn't want to. I really disappointed a few partners by jamming out on them, some more than once.

I even jammed out of a Yukon rock climbing trip with Daryl Hatten. The list goes on ...

Trad climber
Jul 6, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Please add my good friend Jim Anglin. He did alot for climbing in the Northwest and other places.

It's been a couple of years now and just a month ago I let myself erase his phone number from my phone.


Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
Jul 6, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
I love and miss you Woody, a day doesn't go by that you are not in my thoughts.

Condolences to all the other climber family's and friends.

Jul 7, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
RIP Chuck Kroger (2007)

We miss you!!

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Jul 7, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
We can rest in the knowledge what whatever bothers us is impermanent and will pass.

God's Speed John Bachar

Social climber
El Portal
Jul 7, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
For Erik Goukas 1986, who died doing what he loved.

Erik, I miss you. You made a difference in my life.
For those who knew Erik you know what I'm talking about.

Jo Whitford

Mark Not-circlehead

Boulder climber
Martinez, CA
Jul 7, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
aAnother for the list:

Mike Price (aka the real "Circlehead")2004
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 8, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Aye....He was REAL, too.

Social climber
El Portal
Jul 8, 2009 - 12:11am PT
Thank you for remembering Mike Price.

A true valley classic!


east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jul 8, 2009 - 12:15am PT
Walter Rosenthal April 2006- gave his life trying to save his fellow patrollers. Steve "zippy" Gaucho june 2009- Father, Mammoth local, ski fiend, waterski master and backcountry sno-mo pioneer. Thankyou for the inspiration.

Jul 8, 2009 - 02:09am PT
Scott McAndrews, who taught me more about compassion and service than I will ever be able to practice.

"I slept and dreamt that life was joy, I awoke and saw that life was service, I acted and behold service was joy."
-Rabindranath Tagore

Social climber
Jul 8, 2009 - 04:33am PT
hey there say, all... oh my... so many folks... all of which i would have never had the knowledge of, if i had not been here...

sure have knowledge now, and at least i can pray for their folks, kin and loved ones...

and even on occasion, i can share their names and skills, with others that i run into, so these names won't be forgotten in the larger scheme of things...

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jul 8, 2009 - 09:49am PT
Thanks for bringing up Jim Anglin. I was on my way to add him when I came across your post.

John Evans - 2009

Bob Williams-1990
My partner from the Pacific Ocean Wall.

I didn't see Yabo's name?

Big Wall climber
Jul 9, 2009 - 05:00am PT
Erica L Kutcher 1978 - 2005

It has been four years today, four years since that day Erica went missing without a trace from our camp in Pakistan.

With tears staining my face today, I still remember those horrific days of not knowing - the days of searching - the days of hope of finding her alive - my body getting weaker for not sleeping for hundreds of hours on end - doing my best, my all to find her...

Ten days later I again held Erica in my arms, but now she was cold and she didn't move - I talked to her and I tried to warm her - for a couple of days I held her hand and carried her in my arms trying to get her back to the States and her family - all the time doing my best to comfort her and looking out for her...

It was rough - but I loved her so much...

There is not a day that goes by without me thinking about her and our time together.

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