Just to add 2 tips for skin recover and pain, a must to complete your first-aid big wall stuff:
I'm used with PROPOLIS (natural antibiotic resin produced by the bees) since young for a lot of troubles. You can apply it externally and internally as well.
The most versatile fashion is the alcohol solution (30% propolis). You can drop some drops over the skin damaged.
It's absolutely fantastic, it acts during night as skin regenerator and cleans-up all dirt stuff inside, avoiding immediately any complication.
I'm also used to drop in my tongue directly some drops. It prevents any potential colds, just by reinforcing your immune system.
It does not present any side-effect provided you don't develop allergies for bees.
It can be easily found at organic food stores. I've heard it's been in the center of recent researches against cancer also.
I know the climb-on products are made with beeswax among others. I've never seen propolis in their products.
Another nice tip (and natural) for pains in general (the hands at the end of a hard crack climbing !) is ARNICA gel. It's powerful.
Just avoid to put arnica directly in contact with blood. What I do is: after cleaning the skin with a handi wipe, I put some drops of propolis, breath over to accelerate the evaporation.
At this moment, a thin layer of resin covers the skin damaged. Then you can apply the arnica gel over.
Another interesting topic to develop would be the BIG WALL FOOD.
Dried food is lighter than cans but you still need a wall stove. There's not much wall sotves, the most popular is the jetboil or a MSR Pocket Rocket, home adapted version:
Looking to get into clean aid climbing.
Just bought a Talon and two Peckers on sale at REI.
Questions: how to sling/tie off the Talon or other hooks. Looks to me as if the Peckers could be used as clean placements. Is this so?
Thanks for the note.
That's what I had figured but wanted to hear someone with experience confirm that the knot won't pull through the hole. Or if there was a better, less obvious way.
It's occurred to my aid-noob brain that there's a lot to be said for experimentation and innovative use of "tools" in aid climbing, particularly of the clean variety. Perhaps a short section on that.
Great work in progress.
Oh and one more vote for not suggesting a bike helmet. Possibly a ski helmet, especially for cold weather. Any one tried this?