How To Big Wall Climb Book - Aid Gear

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Messages 21 - 27 of total 27 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
i just updated this and made a new chapter here http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=877792&tn=0#msg877792

thanx for all the feedback! as soon as i get my rough drafts posted i will go through all this and update.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona, Spain
Jun 10, 2009 - 12:50am PT
bump climbing content
nyssens

Trad climber
Belgium
Jul 13, 2009 - 01:59am PT
Hi,

Just to add 2 tips for skin recover and pain, a must to complete your first-aid big wall stuff:

I'm used with PROPOLIS (natural antibiotic resin produced by the bees) since young for a lot of troubles. You can apply it externally and internally as well.
The most versatile fashion is the alcohol solution (30% propolis). You can drop some drops over the skin damaged.
It's absolutely fantastic, it acts during night as skin regenerator and cleans-up all dirt stuff inside, avoiding immediately any complication.
I'm also used to drop in my tongue directly some drops. It prevents any potential colds, just by reinforcing your immune system.
It does not present any side-effect provided you don't develop allergies for bees.
It can be easily found at organic food stores. I've heard it's been in the center of recent researches against cancer also.

For more info about propolis:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propolis

I know the climb-on products are made with beeswax among others. I've never seen propolis in their products.


Another nice tip (and natural) for pains in general (the hands at the end of a hard crack climbing !) is ARNICA gel. It's powerful.
Just avoid to put arnica directly in contact with blood. What I do is: after cleaning the skin with a handi wipe, I put some drops of propolis, breath over to accelerate the evaporation.
At this moment, a thin layer of resin covers the skin damaged. Then you can apply the arnica gel over.

Another interesting topic to develop would be the BIG WALL FOOD.
Dried food is lighter than cans but you still need a wall stove. There's not much wall sotves, the most popular is the jetboil or a MSR Pocket Rocket, home adapted version:

MSR Pocket Rocket, home adapted version


Nice topic,

Cheers and climb always !!

Eric
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Dec 16, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
Looking to get into clean aid climbing.
Just bought a Talon and two Peckers on sale at REI.
Questions: how to sling/tie off the Talon or other hooks. Looks to me as if the Peckers could be used as clean placements. Is this so?
Pate

Trad climber
Dec 16, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
there is a whole thread on that gear somewhere in here.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
Top of the 5.2-5.12 Boulder
Dec 16, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
Take a tie off. Tie an overhand knot in it.
Pass the loop through the hook, from back to front.
Ta-da!!!
Peckers CAN be used "hammerless". Cheers!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Dec 17, 2009 - 10:20am PT
Cap'n
Thanks for the note.
That's what I had figured but wanted to hear someone with experience confirm that the knot won't pull through the hole. Or if there was a better, less obvious way.

Chris
It's occurred to my aid-noob brain that there's a lot to be said for experimentation and innovative use of "tools" in aid climbing, particularly of the clean variety. Perhaps a short section on that.
Great work in progress.

Oh and one more vote for not suggesting a bike helmet. Possibly a ski helmet, especially for cold weather. Any one tried this?
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