Charlotte Dome questions

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rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
Thinking of giving Charlotte a try. Questions;
Is it too early (snow pack or wet rock)?
If coming from Bay Area, is it easier to approach from west or east (taking drive into account).
Any tricks to finding beginning of route? I've heard its tricky.
Any other useful info?
Anyone have photos that would help find and follow the route?

thanks in advance
Dapper Dan

climber
Menlo Park
May 30, 2009 - 03:49pm PT


this is the start of the route .

I dont think it is too hard to find. Just keep traversing around the base of the dome and you will get to it . The supertopo was fairly accurate. The approach is pretty long overall , but not too hard.
del cross

climber
May 30, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
Driving times from the bay area are a wash.

The west approach is shorter and steeper. The east approach has that cool campsite but you've got a long haul to get back to your car.

Go west.
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
May 30, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
a number of years ago when we did the route, we went in from the west and stayed at the campground. very pleasant hike in and you can do some cragging near the car before starting your hike.

but if you choose the west approach and stay at the campground, be aware that the bears are quite aggressive, and your sleep may be interrupted. there is a bear box at the campground, which should tell you something.
Radish

Trad climber
Seki, California
May 30, 2009 - 09:16pm PT
Have been working a Prescribed burn at Roaring River, down in Cedar Grove all week. Lots of wind and some rain today, almost all day. It looks like Charlotte Dome might be ready to go, but if you wait another week, it will be better.The burn is done so there won't be any smoke. The Kings river is all white and just running like crazy, looks like class 8......................
Sean Jones

climber
May 31, 2009 - 12:16am PT
Ask Doug Robinson for info on this. He can probly help you alot.

Sean Jones.
murse

Trad climber
San Clemente
May 31, 2009 - 03:56am PT
bump, as i'm going up there in 6 weeks. that photo looks like the start of 4th class scrambling, is that the start of climbing?
Dapper Dan

climber
Menlo Park
May 31, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
to the south face route it is .

it is a little steeper than it looks i think .
Les

Trad climber
Brooklyn
Jun 15, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
How's the 40' runout climbing on P9? Pretty featured/secure friction? Or pure slab?
ec

climber
ca
Jun 15, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
40' ?

Small wireds may shorten that #.

Don't go there if you have to ask...to long of a walk to get shut down w/ no rap route.
ec

climber
ca
Jun 15, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
at least I clued you in on some pro...and I guess you didn't view the photo...'pure friction' I think knott, but Les featured than the rest...

 ec
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Jun 15, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
Climb is probably dry all winter even, but you'd have to ski a long ways. I'd recommend the west approach, especially from the Bay. We found the route extremely easily just from the old text description, so no problem. And if you wander around a bit, so what, the rock is so featured and with abundant corners and easy faces that you could go just about anywhere. Just go up and you'll be fine. No wiggy slab anywhere high up; tons of large features, really fun. Half the pitches are probably cl. 4; we could only find the one 5.7 (but slightly PG/R) pitch. People car-to-carred it casually the same day we climbed it (which was late Oct or early Nov - last weekend the road was open; short days).

Word to the wise is, bring a bunch of slings and your Tricams, they work great in that rock. SINK THE PINK!
Les

Trad climber
Brooklyn
Jun 15, 2009 - 05:10pm PT
ec - I don't climb much friction in these parts, though it is available in abundance on Whitehorse Ledge. And I've climbed plenty of friction in North Carolina. What I know from experience about friction is that it's not all created equal, and that it's generally (especially at 5.8 and under) mostly a head game. So my inquiry was aimed at gauging how much time I should spend running it out up at Whitehorse before this trip to get my friction head straight. When you haven't climbed friction in a while, and you're used to pulling down on say, horizontals at the Gunks, it takes some getting re-acquainted with. Not that I should have to explain myself when posting a simple, good faith request for little honest information.


BW

climber
Big Pine, CA
Jun 15, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
It's "featured friction" from what I recall. And ec's right: little nut is bomber. Then again, there's so many ways to go you may not encounter the same thing we did.

Beware the bears. Had a beauty of a cinnimon-colored bear bite into our fuel cannister. She sneezed on the gas that exploded in her mouth and walked inches from my head to Bubbs Creek to wash it out. Then after climbing the dome we ran into her again up a tree. She came down fast and started coming right at us. I'm normally nonchalant about Sierra black bears, but this one followed us up-slope a ways. She must have been pissed about the fuel in her mouth and was holding a grudge. Not sure if this is true, but hear they relocate "problem" bears from the Ditch. Bring a bear cannister and put the fuel in it as well.

I'm biased here, but the approach from the Eastside is stunning.
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
Jun 15, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
our bear encounters there were a mixture of amorous and hostile. my buddy was awakened when a black, not ginger colored, bear was teaching him how to french kiss. we didn't get much sleep at all there. constant dancing, spanking, tossing of stones, whacking with sticks. got up close and personal with them and he/she tossed our heavy packs like toys and wedged the full bear box against a tree. took two of us to move it so we could open it.
remember more about the bear encounters than the climb itself, other than getting grappled on in October.
rockermike

Mountain climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
"french kiss"? do tell more.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Jun 15, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
Les, you might check out ec's resume, if it's the "ec" I know of in the sierra, you might take his word on this. Is that you ec joe? He ain't trying to snub you, it IS a long approach for just the hike, and I know plenty of climbers with good ability that go in, get off route and have an epic. Have fun and be safe if you go. It's a classic.
Peace
Bad Climber

climber
Jun 15, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
I did it for the second time after an interval of almost 20 years last year. Such a joy! Dang, it's great. EC is right about the not-so-run-out. With some careful wireds, some small cams, slings, etc, you can keep the run-outs reasonable. You will have to smear a bit on a slanting dike like feature, but I recall some decent holds.

Have a blast!

bAd
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
darkest of africa
Jun 15, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
Dapper Dan-

More photos of "The Start of the Route", please?

:)
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
Jun 15, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
"french kiss"? do tell more.


never kiss and tell.
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