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| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
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Surfed the place for fifteen years alone ! Pretty sick, no one surfs that place alone or anywhere waves are that big. ( crazy ) but good!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mzq49VVSsU
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 29, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
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One of the great adventure stores of all time - Clark out there solo on those dark, cold, monsters.
Gotta loved those big wave surfing stories.
Check out The Big Drop sometime.
JL
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 29, 2009 - 04:13pm PT
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How he managed to internalize all that drama and not be able to explain it to anyone probably made him feel disconnected in some ways. It's also amazing how once the word got out that place went nuts. Kind of analogous to our good sport eh?
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 29, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
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I love that line.
His buddy said to Jeff when going out for the first time:
"I'll tell the coast guard where I last saw ya"
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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May 29, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
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What I wanna know is how he didn't become a snack for a Great White? The only dude out there for 15 years, bobbing around like a share lure? That's GrrrrrrrNarly!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
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People were riding waves that big back then just not in California. I remember more than one winter when the wedge at Newport or the pier at Ventura went over twenty five foot faces! But forty just didn’t happen. But it did at Mavericks. My wife asked me once what is it like to paddle out in waves over ten feet. And I said it depends on where. For example Pipeline timing is everything, you paddle out between sets fast and a bit off reef to the line up. If you are surfing at Cottons or Trestles (if it’s big ) you just have to take a bunch, because there’s no way a round it. You see California gets big surf, but we only have a few reef breaks. So when the big storm waves come in it blows all the sand out and it walls up. Un-surf able You can take off but that’s it. So the reef is key when the big swells come in. Or there's a place like the wedge, In the winter the place breaks outside but still close to the beach considering how big the waves are! Twenty foot faces are not un-heard of.( The Tude is bad ass.) BUT! I broke my shoulder and right arm there in the winter 92.
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Double D
climber
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May 29, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Nothin but respect...that guy's hard core for sure.
I've seen Mav's breaking big from the hill and it just looks like it's in slow motion...until someone drops in...and drops...and dropps. Big shoulder but sick n thick lip.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 29, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
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i've watched "riding giants" so many times i've lost count. but, but as someone posting above mentioned, i too always felt a deep kinship with jeff clark. some of my deepest and most rewarding experiences in climbing involved doing something really scary and stupid at an utterly deserted climbing area. and immediately afterwards thinking: "man, i gotta have another one of those..."
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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May 29, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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Kind of like soloing Astroman for 10 years before you bother to tell anyone else about it. ha
But I don't think he was riding 40' days (could be wrong). As I understand it the paddle-in guys ride on moderate days (20'?) but you need a tow in for the really big stuff.
I've kayaked out there a bunch. Its a rugged f'ing piece of coast. Rocks everywhere, cold dark water and swirling currents. Going it alone is way ballsy whether 20' or 40.
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