Pull testing results on Aliens at RC.com

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Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Original Post - May 20, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2143110;page=unread#unread

A good read.

Josh
adatesman

Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
May 20, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
That's my work, and thanks. I was meaning to start spreading the work, but haven't had a chance yet. Unfortunately it doesn't look like I'll have time to follow all the boards, so if you have questions and don't mind posting them on RC I'll get to them sooner.

-aric.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 20, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
Same sh#t, different batch, and the beat goes on...
labrat

Trad climber
Nevada, CA
May 20, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
bump
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
May 21, 2009 - 01:03am PT
Hate to say it but Im still going to climb on mine. I just love the red alien, probably my favorite piece of gear, followed by yellow and green. Anyone out there going to abandon CCH based on this new information?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 21, 2009 - 06:39am PT
I still have a yellow and a green but will NEVER buy annother CCH product. No reason buy Faliens with the new METELIOUS Master cam available.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 21, 2009 - 10:18am PT
I always use my Aliens with a grain of salt free climbing. If I have a short runout to another placment I throw one in, if I have to run it out, I place two just to be sure. They are great for aid, very fast to place, love em.
I read this report and it looks like the guy put allot of time and effort into it. Therefore I question why he did not test new product instead of buying secondhand Aliens obviously used and battered to test. Seems a little unfair to CCH and throws the whole testing into question.
adatesman

Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
May 21, 2009 - 10:56am PT
Hey Guys, I'm finally catching up...

As I said over on RC my only concern is that there are obviously defective cams out there in the wild and climbing on untested ones is probably a bad idea. I don't particularly care if CCH stays in business or not and frankly I think Aliens are a good design, but unreliably made. Get them tested to whatever you're comfortable climbing over and have a bit of peace of mind that they won't explode.

-aric.
couchmaster

climber
May 21, 2009 - 10:57am PT
Lots of people Port, as it turns out. Some are real solid climbers. Check it out.
current thread....
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/883052/Re_Comments_on_aliens#Post883052

older tested Alien threads....

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=379659&tn=220



and this
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/547978/site_id/1#import
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 21, 2009 - 11:45am PT
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 11:53am PT
^^^ That's awesome!

I have some Alien Hybrids. I'll never buy from CCH again, and the hybrids will be used under the assumption they won't necessarily hold a fall until I've tested them in some way that does not involve getting them "pull tested" by CCH.
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
May 21, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
This is really an interesting topic.

Unfortunately we sure could use a lot more data.

There is certainly the issue of testing a sufficient sample to determine what the distribution of forces is to cause a failure in new gear. That is a question that probably should be done by an independent lab, with the results published for everyone to see. The question of who pays for the testing is interesting. If the manufacturers donate the gear and pay for the testing, will it be like the "rating agency" problem in the securities markets.

Another interesting question though is whether your used gear is ok. The concept of failure at a single force is fine assuming that the gear is discarded after a single test. If it is not, then it would be useful to understand how to determine whether to discard gear. Aircraft failures have occurred at within design envelope forces due to cycles of loading. We all know that you can break a wire if you keep bending it enough.

What does one bounce on a piece do? I suspect we would know a lot more about this if more people were constantly falling on gear at high loads.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 21, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
The intrigue over yonder certainly escalated. An outraged Alien fan and is discovered to have an IP address identical to that of the owner/inventor's wife.

I'm starting to feel like I'm in an abusive relationship w/ my Aliens that I just can't seem to leave.
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
May 22, 2009 - 12:11am PT
Hahahahaha... People are going to start wondering about all those bruises.

Curt

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 22, 2009 - 12:21am PT
WheneverI find myself in Josh I always find time to fondle Locker's, popped head...
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
May 22, 2009 - 04:54am PT
If all this is true, its probably the worst public relations nightmare for any climbing company.
adatesman

Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
May 22, 2009 - 09:59am PT
Hey guys,

Sorry for the confusion but there was a miscommunication in the IP info I got from the other user. I've posted retractions and explanations over on RC and I do not have IP confirmation that the user "Sogdiana" is actually Nadia@CCH.

While her posts are highly suspicious and came from an IP from the same provider as Nadia, I do not have absolute proof that they are one in the same.

My deepest apologies for the confusion.

-aric.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
May 22, 2009 - 10:58am PT
I just love the story line, though. Redneck flunkie hits the big time with Faliens, picks out Russian mail order bride, ignores phone ringing off hook for 5 yrs straight.
Impaler

Trad climber
Munich
May 22, 2009 - 11:52am PT
I already tested the only alien that I own (found at the base of ElCap) by taking a nice long whipper onto it (-:
ct

climber
CO
May 22, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
Not exactly new news here. Summary: Aliens work best, yet are fallible.

Caveat Emptor. As always.

Quite telling that the crew on this site just don't care (20 posts in 2 days?) while the other forum's members beat themselves into a lather. Again.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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