The Flakes (5.8 ?) on Middle

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 64 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Nov 16, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
Right on!

Tork, your last shot was a beauty.

Looks like someone needs to clean the gutters on that route.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 17, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
I started up it with two very experienced friends BITD. Got a late start ("so which climb shall we do today?" fiasco), route finding problems, got benighted on P7. Stuck ropes on 2 rappels. Walked back into C4 at midnight. In February.
It's STILL on my tick list.
Byran

climber
Merced, CA
May 18, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
We did The Flakes a few weeks ago, and i was mostly inspired to do it because I had seen this thread a while back, so I thought i'd bump it again.

Great climb, pretty solid and clean overall I thought, but also full-on for 5.8. Too much bouldering and not enough trad climbing had made my legs weak. Lots of sewing machine leg while standing runout on sloping footholds trying to get in some small wires, but I guess I've always felt like a noob on Middle Cathedral rock. It's got plenty of scary Type 2 fun, but it's also got a lot of awesome "hero" climbing on steep juggy holds with lots of air under the heels. The views are pretty killer too, but I suppose that goes for any route in the Valley. It was a bit chilly when we climbed it, but I'd imagine it would be a good one for June. The headwall is super steep and shades the route pretty well until afternoon.

Pitch 3 of The Flakes.
Pitch 3 of The Flakes.
Credit: Byran

Pitch 5 of The Flakes.
Pitch 5 of The Flakes.
Credit: Byran


Here's my route description
http://mountainproject.com/v/the-flakes/107613441
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 18, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
missed this the first time around. an adventure route for sure. 5.8++ to 5.12 depending on how you find your way. Really pays off to squint and scope.
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 19, 2012 - 12:50am PT
The Flakes! Not your average Walk in The Park.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jun 2, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
It's worth a 1000 words !
It's worth a 1000 words !
Credit: Flanders!
sullly

Trad climber
Jun 2, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
Great shot there Jefe.
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
Bump cuz this one is on the hot list.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 29, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Sick!! Thanks for this! This is on my tick list now!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
I think I recommended this route to ya, Big Mike. Ah, well. If I didn't, Then sorry I didn't....Totally worthy & thoughtful route.
A somewhat other than clip & go route, as it were.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 29, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
You did sir but central pillar was higher on the list.. next time!!
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:40am PT
The start of the route looks so ideal with all those little edges.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Dec 25, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
Thanks for posting this to MP, Bryan.

Anyone have more beta on the run out? Sounds like the crux 5.8+ move is run out on pitch 6?

Edit:

Is is Great Pumpkin R or Goodrich Pinnacle R?

Ed
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 25, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
Seems like there are lots of pussy-cats checking out this route, which I have considered one of my top five favorites for a long time, over thirty years.

I make that assertion having climbed it CLEAN, no pins, at least half the time. And that's Old School Clean, nothing but stoppers & hexes & a Moac.

Don't forget your helmets and think about that run-out all night long.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 26, 2015 - 10:50am PT
Ed, get Jaywood on it....
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Dec 26, 2015 - 11:05am PT
Nice look at the route. Never heard of it before this.

Gotta say, I hope this isn't how your partners normally "belay". If I look down and my belayer isn't even holding the rope, while f*#king around with a camera or something, we're going to have a bit of a "discussion". I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and hope the leader just hasn't placed any gear yet.


The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 26, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
Never did the route, but it looks really good - I've seen it from all angles. Always had other things to do in that neck of the woods.

Amusing, but really more a testament to Frank Sacherer's and Mark Powell's combined skill, vision, and boldness, that this 5.8 route still intimidates modern climbers with all their technological advances and advantages over 50 years later.

A true Classic.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 26, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
Very good assessment, Kevin.

It's a separator twixt hardmen and boys.

Sorry you've missed it.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 26, 2015 - 05:40pm PT
I'm saving it for later : )

That and the Arrowhead Arte.

And Braile Book.

And The North Buttress of Middle.

And The East Buttress of Lower.

And a few others...
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
Flanders slinging flakes on The Flakes

Credit: Tork

Dave on the money pitch

Credit: Tork

Flanders following the crux pitch

Credit: Tork

Fancy feet Flanders

Credit: Tork
Messages 41 - 60 of total 64 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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