The Flakes (5.8 ?) on Middle

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Messages 41 - 53 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Nov 16, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
I started up it with a couple of n00bish friends thinking it would be an appropriate outing. We bailed.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Nov 16, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
Right on!

Tork, your last shot was a beauty.

Looks like someone needs to clean the gutters on that route.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 17, 2011 - 09:29am PT
I started up it with two very experienced friends BITD. Got a late start ("so which climb shall we do today?" fiasco), route finding problems, got benighted on P7. Stuck ropes on 2 rappels. Walked back into C4 at midnight. In February.
It's STILL on my tick list.
Byran

climber
Merced, CA
May 18, 2012 - 04:20pm PT
We did The Flakes a few weeks ago, and i was mostly inspired to do it because I had seen this thread a while back, so I thought i'd bump it again.

Great climb, pretty solid and clean overall I thought, but also full-on for 5.8. Too much bouldering and not enough trad climbing had made my legs weak. Lots of sewing machine leg while standing runout on sloping footholds trying to get in some small wires, but I guess I've always felt like a noob on Middle Cathedral rock. It's got plenty of scary Type 2 fun, but it's also got a lot of awesome "hero" climbing on steep juggy holds with lots of air under the heels. The views are pretty killer too, but I suppose that goes for any route in the Valley. It was a bit chilly when we climbed it, but I'd imagine it would be a good one for June. The headwall is super steep and shades the route pretty well until afternoon.

Pitch 3 of The Flakes.
Pitch 3 of The Flakes.
Credit: Byran

Pitch 5 of The Flakes.
Pitch 5 of The Flakes.
Credit: Byran


Here's my route description
http://mountainproject.com/v/the-flakes/107613441
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 18, 2012 - 06:50pm PT
missed this the first time around. an adventure route for sure. 5.8++ to 5.12 depending on how you find your way. Really pays off to squint and scope.
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 18, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
The Flakes! Not your average Walk in The Park.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jun 2, 2012 - 01:29pm PT
It's worth a 1000 words !
It's worth a 1000 words !
Credit: Flanders!
sullly

Trad climber
Jun 2, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
Great shot there Jefe.
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
Bump cuz this one is on the hot list.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Sick!! Thanks for this! This is on my tick list now!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
I think I recommended this route to ya, Big Mike. Ah, well. If I didn't, Then sorry I didn't....Totally worthy & thoughtful route.
A somewhat other than clip & go route, as it were.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 29, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
You did sir but central pillar was higher on the list.. next time!!
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 29, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
The start of the route looks so ideal with all those little edges.
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