The Flakes (5.8 ?) on Middle

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 56 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Colt

climber
Midpines
May 20, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
Great TR! Thanks for sharing.

Also, if Jeff is the "sport climber" in the group that would make me the indoor plastic puller...who wears lycra...and only own slippers...and cross trains with roller blades.

Nice work!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 20, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
Always wanted to do it but never got around to it. Seems like a good mid-summer route.

I hear the topo for it is bogus.

Peace

Karl
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
Karl, the topo is fine, just draw in a few pins and a bolt on the left P6 anchor.

Jeff
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 09:19am PT
I had a Walleye sighting yesterday!!!!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:27am PT
Walter, if you had your way , I would be guiding Snake Dike every day!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:42am PT
Naw Walter, we miss you there! Life was so cheery with you in the office!

Speaking of the man in charge, gotta run.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
May 24, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
Walleye,

We might need you to come out of exile. Swilliam P. Russell is planning a coup
at YMS, and we sure as hell couldn't have him running the show, not all of
us like Old E that much. Couldn't be Jo-nan W. either as some of the crew is allergic
to cats. It could be me, but that would mean we'd all be at the chapel for Sunday services. You're the most logical choice mate! Better start tuning up you're people skills for SHOWTIME !!!!!!


Doug (only an occasional potlicker)
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
Jun 18, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
You really need iron for this thing?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 18, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
Jeff, Doug and Dave - thanks for all the cool photos, beta, and upgrade on the fixed pins! I'm psyched to get on it this summer.
Barbarian

Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
Jun 18, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
Great TR! Man, that thing looks a bit old school. Sure doesn't look like it has been done in a while. How about it....anyone else do this in the past five years? Post up!

How long does it have to go between ascents before it falls into the obscurity category?

I think your TR has generated some interest...I'll bet it gets a few more ticks during the hot days to come. Might have a go at it when I'm up there this fall.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Nov 16, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
Bump!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 16, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
I had a false start in the vicinity this past summer. We needed to get up earlier and budget more time for getting lost/downclimbing than we had, so we didn't try again. Maybe next year.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Nov 16, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
I started up it with a couple of n00bish friends thinking it would be an appropriate outing. We bailed.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Nov 16, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
Right on!

Tork, your last shot was a beauty.

Looks like someone needs to clean the gutters on that route.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 17, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
I started up it with two very experienced friends BITD. Got a late start ("so which climb shall we do today?" fiasco), route finding problems, got benighted on P7. Stuck ropes on 2 rappels. Walked back into C4 at midnight. In February.
It's STILL on my tick list.
Byran

climber
Merced, CA
May 18, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
We did The Flakes a few weeks ago, and i was mostly inspired to do it because I had seen this thread a while back, so I thought i'd bump it again.

Great climb, pretty solid and clean overall I thought, but also full-on for 5.8. Too much bouldering and not enough trad climbing had made my legs weak. Lots of sewing machine leg while standing runout on sloping footholds trying to get in some small wires, but I guess I've always felt like a noob on Middle Cathedral rock. It's got plenty of scary Type 2 fun, but it's also got a lot of awesome "hero" climbing on steep juggy holds with lots of air under the heels. The views are pretty killer too, but I suppose that goes for any route in the Valley. It was a bit chilly when we climbed it, but I'd imagine it would be a good one for June. The headwall is super steep and shades the route pretty well until afternoon.




Here's my route description
http://mountainproject.com/v/the-flakes/107613441
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 18, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
missed this the first time around. an adventure route for sure. 5.8++ to 5.12 depending on how you find your way. Really pays off to squint and scope.
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 19, 2012 - 12:50am PT
The Flakes! Not your average Walk in The Park.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jun 2, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
Bump cuz this one is on the hot list.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 56 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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