The Flakes (5.8 ?) on Middle

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Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - May 19, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
The obvious line of the Flakes????

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes030.jpg[/img]

Dave gets the first

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes022.jpg[/img]

Doug belays

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes027.jpg[/img]

Doug on P2

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes039.jpg[/img]

The view from P1

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes040.jpg[/img]

Dave gets the best pitch on #4

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes054.jpg[/img]

Doug follows P4

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes068.jpg[/img]

Doug leading P5

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes080.jpg[/img]

Doug on P6

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes084.jpg[/img]

Doug on the trverse to the anchor on P6
[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes091.jpg[/img]

Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 19, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
Sweet!
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
May 19, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
Where be dat? (in relation to other features, routes)

Looks fun, is it in Reid guide?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 19, 2009 - 01:54pm PT
score!
nutjob

climber
Berkeley, CA
May 19, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
Wow, I'm really glad to see this! I've stood at the base looking for it, and I just didn't see it. Looks as fun as I'd imagine it to be.

Spyork: Far right side of North Apron of Middle Cathedral, at the start of the Gunsight gulley.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
May 19, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
This TR is like a fine film... let the pictures do the talking! No need for verbal diarrhea and paragraphs of details... the photos tell all.

Nice. Very nice.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 19, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
Jeff,

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 19, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
very cool guys.
Walleye

climber
Duluth Bucko, you can get Tierra Del Fuego
May 19, 2009 - 04:03pm PT
Hooray!

Let's hear it for the YMS Sourbelly Trio....
Mr_T

Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
May 19, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
Great photos!

Fun Route? Chossy? Solid? Worth doing on a 98 degree day in early August?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 19, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
Looks like a real fun route - always wanted to do it.

Great shots!

What's up with Doug's shoes? Did he forget to bring his rock shoes and have to climb the route in five tennies?
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 19, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
I always recommended "The Flakes." It is not a sandbag Sacherer 5.8, but it does require route finding and thoughtful protection and rope management. Of course I haven't done it in nearly 40 years, so I have not idea if it has any appeal nowadays. It seems like a great route at a moderate level to get started on MCR face routes.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
May 19, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
The Flakes was a very good route, not one for the 5.8 leader as it does require a bit more route finding and technical skill than allot of 5.8's. Kind of a Valley Alpine route.


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0778.jpg[/img]
Pitch 2, Jeff and Dave follow


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0779.jpg[/img]
Pitch 2, Jeff


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0780.jpg[/img]
Pitch 4 Dave pounding a pin, you don't need this on free climbs all that often anymore.


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0790.jpg[/img]
Pitch 4, This route hasn't been done for awhile, some of the cracks needed cleaning


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0793.jpg[/img]
Pitch 5, Jeff and Dave


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0798.jpg[/img]
Pitch 6, Dave follows the crux of the route


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0800.jpg[/img]
The Gunsight descent completes our alpine day with a rappel off a snow bollard


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0803.jpg[/img]
When asked to give a star rating to the route, you can tell who the sport climber in the crowd is: Jeff gives the route 1 star, Dave gives it 3.


Flanders
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 19, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
Sweet!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
Doug, you set me up.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:02am PT
Nutjob, only the first pitch was obvious from the ground. You look up the wall at that big roof and think no way a 5.8 pitch can go through there, but it all works out, one of the coolest things about the route.

Mr T, It was a fun route and climbing with Doug and Dave was a blast. But, I was kinda gripped the whole way. It started with Dave telling Doug and I not to fall on the first pitch. Also there was a lot of loose rock, although we got rid of a bunch of it. The climbing on the 4th, 5th, and 6th pitches is very cool. The traverse off was very loose with little pro.The 4th class off had a few slick spots, eh Doug?

Warbler, those are Dougs climbing shoes.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 20, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Middle Cathedral Rock - The Flakes
III, 5.8. Frank Sacherer and Mark Powell, June 1964. Upon entering the narrowing talus gully of the Gunsight, it will be possible to see on the left a nebulous system of flakes shooting up the face of Middle Cathedral. Fope up below the right side of a small buttress studded with trees and climb 5.6 flakes for 140 feet. Traverse up and over 5.8 face climbing for 120 feet. Belay at a ledge in line with an overhanging dihedral formed by flakes. Pitch 3: climb up, then traverse over rotten blocks to the left. Ascend moderate jamcracks and belay on a large block. Next, a difficult step right leads to a dihedral; cross this and continue traversing 30 feet, then ascend 60 feet to a belay ledge. Pitch 5: from the left end of the bleay ledge, climb toward overlapping flakes. Difficult liebacking leads to a belay ledge. Step right, make a difficult move, then climb toward a bolt 30 feet above the belayer. Move left and traverse up and left to a belay ledge. Pitch 7: traverse right and up over broken ledges to 3rd class climbing leading to easy ledges which run right toward the Gunsight. Carry 12-15 pitons for this fine climb; horizontals to a 1 1/2" angle.

From the green Roper (1970) guide.

Nice TR!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:25am PT
There is no longer a bolt on P6 per Roper. There was a bolt added for the belay on P6 though. Although, I found a good anchor to the right and did not use the added bolt.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
May 20, 2009 - 12:46am PT
Jeff,

Set up you? Who me? would never ever consider such a low life thing.

I would agree though, that climbing such a classic route with you and Dave
was a very cool thing !

Jeff made the comment re: some loose rock on the route. Here's the before and after pictures of the start of the route.


[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0774.jpg[/img]



[img]http://i731.photobucket.com/albums/ww311/dougthemountainguide/BILD0801.jpg[/img]

Flanders
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
May 20, 2009 - 03:19am PT
This is why I come to this site!
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
May 20, 2009 - 10:01am PT
Awesome.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
above the play park
May 20, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
Sweet! Nice ta meetcha the other day dave.
Colt

climber
Midpines
May 20, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
Great TR! Thanks for sharing.

Also, if Jeff is the "sport climber" in the group that would make me the indoor plastic puller...who wears lycra...and only own slippers...and cross trains with roller blades.

Nice work!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 20, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
Always wanted to do it but never got around to it. Seems like a good mid-summer route.

I hear the topo for it is bogus.

Peace

Karl
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
Karl, the topo is fine, just draw in a few pins and a bolt on the left P6 anchor.

Jeff
Walleye

climber
Duluth Bucko, you can get Tierra Del Fuego
May 20, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
"Set up you? Who me? would never ever consider such a low life thing."

Flanders is a potlickin sandbagger par excellance. I KNOW it, and he KNOWS it.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 09:19am PT
I had a Walleye sighting yesterday!!!!
Walleye

climber
Duluth Bucko, you can get Tierra Del Fuego
May 21, 2009 - 10:02am PT
Hopefully that sighting was on your way to guiding Snake Dike heh heh....
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:27am PT
Walter, if you had your way , I would be guiding Snake Dike every day!
Walleye

climber
Duluth Bucko, you can get Tierra Del Fuego
May 21, 2009 - 10:35am PT
I'll bet you are glad I'm not in the position of power I once was at the illustrious YMS world headquarters
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 10:42am PT
Naw Walter, we miss you there! Life was so cheery with you in the office!

Speaking of the man in charge, gotta run.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
May 24, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
Walleye,

We might need you to come out of exile. Swilliam P. Russell is planning a coup
at YMS, and we sure as hell couldn't have him running the show, not all of
us like Old E that much. Couldn't be Jo-nan W. either as some of the crew is allergic
to cats. It could be me, but that would mean we'd all be at the chapel for Sunday services. You're the most logical choice mate! Better start tuning up you're people skills for SHOWTIME !!!!!!


Doug (only an occasional potlicker)
Walleye

climber
Duluth Bucko, you can get Tierra Del Fuego
May 24, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
Flanders
I will be back at YMS for Showtime when Heaven freezes over.....
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
Jun 18, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
You really need iron for this thing?
dave

climber
Earth
Jun 18, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
Not anymore, as we left the pins we hammered in. Lost arrow leaving the belay on the crux pitch. A knife blade that is part of the anchor on the end of that pitch, and I think a baby angle or something on the next. Should be good to go now.

Edit: Oh ya, maybe a couple blades or small arrows or something on the 2nd. pitch would safen' it up a bit if I remember.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 18, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
Jeff, Doug and Dave - thanks for all the cool photos, beta, and upgrade on the fixed pins! I'm psyched to get on it this summer.
Barbarian

Trad climber
slowly dying in the OC
Jun 18, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
Great TR! Man, that thing looks a bit old school. Sure doesn't look like it has been done in a while. How about it....anyone else do this in the past five years? Post up!

How long does it have to go between ascents before it falls into the obscurity category?

I think your TR has generated some interest...I'll bet it gets a few more ticks during the hot days to come. Might have a go at it when I'm up there this fall.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Nov 16, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
Bump!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Nov 16, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
I had a false start in the vicinity this past summer. We needed to get up earlier and budget more time for getting lost/downclimbing than we had, so we didn't try again. Maybe next year.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Nov 16, 2011 - 11:20pm PT
I started up it with a couple of n00bish friends thinking it would be an appropriate outing. We bailed.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Nov 16, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
Right on!

Tork, your last shot was a beauty.

Looks like someone needs to clean the gutters on that route.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 17, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
I started up it with two very experienced friends BITD. Got a late start ("so which climb shall we do today?" fiasco), route finding problems, got benighted on P7. Stuck ropes on 2 rappels. Walked back into C4 at midnight. In February.
It's STILL on my tick list.
Byran

climber
Merced, CA
May 18, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
We did The Flakes a few weeks ago, and i was mostly inspired to do it because I had seen this thread a while back, so I thought i'd bump it again.

Great climb, pretty solid and clean overall I thought, but also full-on for 5.8. Too much bouldering and not enough trad climbing had made my legs weak. Lots of sewing machine leg while standing runout on sloping footholds trying to get in some small wires, but I guess I've always felt like a noob on Middle Cathedral rock. It's got plenty of scary Type 2 fun, but it's also got a lot of awesome "hero" climbing on steep juggy holds with lots of air under the heels. The views are pretty killer too, but I suppose that goes for any route in the Valley. It was a bit chilly when we climbed it, but I'd imagine it would be a good one for June. The headwall is super steep and shades the route pretty well until afternoon.

Pitch 3 of The Flakes.
Pitch 3 of The Flakes.
Credit: Byran

Pitch 5 of The Flakes.
Pitch 5 of The Flakes.
Credit: Byran


Here's my route description
http://mountainproject.com/v/the-flakes/107613441
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 18, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
missed this the first time around. an adventure route for sure. 5.8++ to 5.12 depending on how you find your way. Really pays off to squint and scope.
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 19, 2012 - 12:50am PT
The Flakes! Not your average Walk in The Park.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jun 2, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
It's worth a 1000 words !
It's worth a 1000 words !
Credit: Flanders!
sullly

Trad climber
Jun 2, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
Great shot there Jefe.
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
Bump cuz this one is on the hot list.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 29, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
Sick!! Thanks for this! This is on my tick list now!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Oct 29, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
I think I recommended this route to ya, Big Mike. Ah, well. If I didn't, Then sorry I didn't....Totally worthy & thoughtful route.
A somewhat other than clip & go route, as it were.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 29, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
You did sir but central pillar was higher on the list.. next time!!
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Oct 30, 2012 - 01:40am PT
The start of the route looks so ideal with all those little edges.
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Dec 25, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
Thanks for posting this to MP, Bryan.

Anyone have more beta on the run out? Sounds like the crux 5.8+ move is run out on pitch 6?

Edit:

Is is Great Pumpkin R or Goodrich Pinnacle R?

Ed
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 25, 2015 - 10:33pm PT
Seems like there are lots of pussy-cats checking out this route, which I have considered one of my top five favorites for a long time, over thirty years.

I make that assertion having climbed it CLEAN, no pins, at least half the time. And that's Old School Clean, nothing but stoppers & hexes & a Moac.

Don't forget your helmets and think about that run-out all night long.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 26, 2015 - 10:50am PT
Ed, get Jaywood on it....
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Dec 26, 2015 - 11:05am PT
Nice look at the route. Never heard of it before this.

Gotta say, I hope this isn't how your partners normally "belay". If I look down and my belayer isn't even holding the rope, while f*#king around with a camera or something, we're going to have a bit of a "discussion". I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and hope the leader just hasn't placed any gear yet.

[img]http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o271/tork_photo/theflakes027.jpg[/img]
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 26, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
Never did the route, but it looks really good - I've seen it from all angles. Always had other things to do in that neck of the woods.

Amusing, but really more a testament to Frank Sacherer's and Mark Powell's combined skill, vision, and boldness, that this 5.8 route still intimidates modern climbers with all their technological advances and advantages over 50 years later.

A true Classic.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 26, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
Very good assessment, Kevin.

It's a separator twixt hardmen and boys.

Sorry you've missed it.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 26, 2015 - 05:40pm PT
I'm saving it for later : )

That and the Arrowhead Arte.

And Braile Book.

And The North Buttress of Middle.

And The East Buttress of Lower.

And a few others...
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
Flanders slinging flakes on The Flakes

Credit: Tork

Dave on the money pitch

Credit: Tork

Flanders following the crux pitch

Credit: Tork

Fancy feet Flanders

Credit: Tork
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 27, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
That last pic is classic!

Ed should put that in the new guidebook
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 27, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
Roper called it "airy."

He wasn't lyin'.
gumbyKing

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Dec 29, 2015 - 05:24pm PT
Great photos. Looks like a fun jaunt.
Barney Rubble

Trad climber
ALAMEDA
Dec 30, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
Fun route! Here's a trip report from a couple years back.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-Flakes-the-route-not-the-climbers/t12012n.html
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
May 18, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
From Clint - thanks!

The Flakes.
It's one of those routes, "A 5.8 for 5.10 leaders". I did it in June 2014.
The start may be a little hard to find. The start shown in several photo trip reports here was recently "grid bolted over" by several short climbs.
The original start is further down left, shown correctly in the topo.
The original start is seasonally wet, though, so the other start may be helpful.
p2 immediately gives you some delicate climbing on somewhat sketchy gear.
Would probably have protected well with pitons. Now it's shallow nuts and somewhat runout moves on 5.8/5.9.
Plus there are 2 choices of cracks to follow and it's not clear which one is better.
Pitches in the middle often have face climbing to unseen ledges.
Eventually there is a long crack pitch (felt like some 5.9 moves).
Then the crux pitch, with a crimp move to dyno for a better hold, with gear well below your feet. The topo shows climbing out left instead, but that's fairly slick.
The upward diagonalling exit pitches are easy, but the rock is brittle / loose / little gear.
It got dark on us at about that point, but fortunately I was familiar with how to rap off where it crosses Border Country.
The alternative is a bushwhack down the shoulder and then some raps and downclimbing in the Gunsight.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 18, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
Ed H--

That last 4th class section is easy, the ground is not too steep. I've never minded a bit of bushwhacking if I can avoid a rap. I've heard from SAR folk and the Mtn. Shop (two years ago) that there are fixed lines in the descent gully.

Just be certain to get an early start on The Flakes if you've not done it before--as Clint intimates, it's a bit of a challenge of the leader's route-finding skill.

This climb is a shady lady, in the shade on a hot day--and there's some breeze coming through the Gunshight.

All the belay stations are roomy enough for three, I thought.

One benefit of an early start is that the interested party might take some time to wander along Bridalveil Creek--at this time it's roaring full.

Also, it's a chance to bag the summit of LCR, which I've never done. I could kick myself for not having taken the opportunity.
Burnin' Oil

Trad climber
CA
May 28, 2016 - 08:18am PT
Did it yesterday. Interesting.
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