The Flakes (5.8 ?) on Middle


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Topic Author's Original Post - May 19, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
The obvious line of the Flakes????

Dave gets the first

Doug belays

Doug on P2

The view from P1

Dave gets the best pitch on #4

Doug follows P4

Doug leading P5

Doug on P6

Doug on the trverse to the anchor on P6


Trad climber
May 19, 2009 - 01:43pm PT

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
May 19, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
Where be dat? (in relation to other features, routes)

Looks fun, is it in Reid guide?

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 19, 2009 - 01:54pm PT

Berkeley, CA
May 19, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
Wow, I'm really glad to see this! I've stood at the base looking for it, and I just didn't see it. Looks as fun as I'd imagine it to be.

Spyork: Far right side of North Apron of Middle Cathedral, at the start of the Gunsight gulley.

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
May 19, 2009 - 02:21pm PT
This TR is like a fine film... let the pictures do the talking! No need for verbal diarrhea and paragraphs of details... the photos tell all.

Nice. Very nice.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 19, 2009 - 02:24pm PT

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 19, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
very cool guys.

Duluth Bucko, you can get Tierra Del Fuego
May 19, 2009 - 04:03pm PT

Let's hear it for the YMS Sourbelly Trio....

Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
May 19, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
Great photos!

Fun Route? Chossy? Solid? Worth doing on a 98 degree day in early August?
The Warbler

the edge of America
May 19, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
Looks like a real fun route - always wanted to do it.

Great shots!

What's up with Doug's shoes? Did he forget to bring his rock shoes and have to climb the route in five tennies?
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
May 19, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
I always recommended "The Flakes." It is not a sandbag Sacherer 5.8, but it does require route finding and thoughtful protection and rope management. Of course I haven't done it in nearly 40 years, so I have not idea if it has any appeal nowadays. It seems like a great route at a moderate level to get started on MCR face routes.

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
May 19, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
The Flakes was a very good route, not one for the 5.8 leader as it does require a bit more route finding and technical skill than allot of 5.8's. Kind of a Valley Alpine route.

Pitch 2, Jeff and Dave follow

Pitch 2, Jeff

Pitch 4 Dave pounding a pin, you don't need this on free climbs all that often anymore.

Pitch 4, This route hasn't been done for awhile, some of the cracks needed cleaning

Pitch 5, Jeff and Dave

Pitch 6, Dave follows the crux of the route

The Gunsight descent completes our alpine day with a rappel off a snow bollard

When asked to give a star rating to the route, you can tell who the sport climber in the crowd is: Jeff gives the route 1 star, Dave gives it 3.


Trad climber
May 19, 2009 - 11:44pm PT

Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
Doug, you set me up.

Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:02am PT
Nutjob, only the first pitch was obvious from the ground. You look up the wall at that big roof and think no way a 5.8 pitch can go through there, but it all works out, one of the coolest things about the route.

Mr T, It was a fun route and climbing with Doug and Dave was a blast. But, I was kinda gripped the whole way. It started with Dave telling Doug and I not to fall on the first pitch. Also there was a lot of loose rock, although we got rid of a bunch of it. The climbing on the 4th, 5th, and 6th pitches is very cool. The traverse off was very loose with little pro.The 4th class off had a few slick spots, eh Doug?

Warbler, those are Dougs climbing shoes.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 20, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Middle Cathedral Rock - The Flakes
III, 5.8. Frank Sacherer and Mark Powell, June 1964. Upon entering the narrowing talus gully of the Gunsight, it will be possible to see on the left a nebulous system of flakes shooting up the face of Middle Cathedral. Fope up below the right side of a small buttress studded with trees and climb 5.6 flakes for 140 feet. Traverse up and over 5.8 face climbing for 120 feet. Belay at a ledge in line with an overhanging dihedral formed by flakes. Pitch 3: climb up, then traverse over rotten blocks to the left. Ascend moderate jamcracks and belay on a large block. Next, a difficult step right leads to a dihedral; cross this and continue traversing 30 feet, then ascend 60 feet to a belay ledge. Pitch 5: from the left end of the bleay ledge, climb toward overlapping flakes. Difficult liebacking leads to a belay ledge. Step right, make a difficult move, then climb toward a bolt 30 feet above the belayer. Move left and traverse up and left to a belay ledge. Pitch 7: traverse right and up over broken ledges to 3rd class climbing leading to easy ledges which run right toward the Gunsight. Carry 12-15 pitons for this fine climb; horizontals to a 1 1/2" angle.

From the green Roper (1970) guide.

Nice TR!

Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2009 - 12:25am PT
There is no longer a bolt on P6 per Roper. There was a bolt added for the belay on P6 though. Although, I found a good anchor to the right and did not use the added bolt.

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
May 20, 2009 - 12:46am PT

Set up you? Who me? would never ever consider such a low life thing.

I would agree though, that climbing such a classic route with you and Dave
was a very cool thing !

Jeff made the comment re: some loose rock on the route. Here's the before and after pictures of the start of the route.


Trad climber
May 20, 2009 - 03:19am PT
This is why I come to this site!
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