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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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I just read an interesting article in the NYer:www.newyorker.com/reporting/2009/04/27/090427fa_fact_talbot
and it made me think about stimulants and single push climbing. i have a done a bunch of it, and mostly it seemed doable, although there were notable ups and downs at various points-no real disasters due to tiredness or climber error, but definitley some time consuming screw ups in route finding etc.
After reading this article i wondered who out there has used these neuroenhancers like Adderall or provigil on long climbs, or who wouldn't and see it as another form of cheating, akin to bolted cracks or chipped holds. hell if house twight and backes can go 60 hrs on the Slovak Direct on nothing more than Gu and Cytomax, why can't all of us?
Any thoughts out there?
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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May 15, 2009 - 12:53pm PT
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Sugar, caffine, and water is all you need.
Its all in your head . . .
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JeffJ
climber
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May 15, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
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if you need caffeine to do the push
lay down and take a nap.
maltodextrin, electrolites, and L-glutamine ... that's it.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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May 15, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Wasn't there a major jumblef*#k on denali in the 50's, and two dudes made it down and left two of their partners in a cave, and hiked through 20 miles of waist deep snow to get to the nearest road to start a rescue....on dex? Lots of dex...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
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May 15, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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Alpinists these days are jacked on Red Bull, vodka, roids, meth and iPhones. Wouldn't that combination neuroenhance you too?
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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May 15, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
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Aleister Crowley beat everyone to the punch...cheater
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 15, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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RedBull and Pizza are the two key ingredients I take on bigwall pushes.
Oh, and cigarettes, lots of em.
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tomtom
Social climber
Seattle, Wa
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May 15, 2009 - 07:18pm PT
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Supertaco is *not* a neuroenhancer.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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that's so old school-what about Ritalin, adderall, Provigil-the sh#t they give to Air Force jockeys!
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Blakeb
Gym climber
Arafel
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May 15, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
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Wasnt there a cross country ski mission of like 100 miles through the himalayas in the 60s or 70s fueled on cocaine??
Who was that again??
blake
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Blakeb
Gym climber
Arafel
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May 15, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
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I have also heard of people that probably shouldnt have been on the wall in the first place popping anti anxiety pills to calm their nerves on the big stone.
blake
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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May 15, 2009 - 10:27pm PT
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If enhancing ones own mind/body is considered bad form.....
Explain how climbing made a huge leap from 70's to 80's with dudes high on LSD? (or so I've heard)
(And before I get torn a new one.. I know that climbers back in the day were pure as the driven snow.. It was only those rogue agents out there on the fringes that did that stuff... and they didn't put up any classics anyway... so... yeah!!)
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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May 15, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Hermann Buhl took pervitin (an amphetamine) and cocatee, which seems to be a cocaine-based stimulant, on his amazing climb on Nanga Parbat in 1953. That famous picture of him, weatherbeaten and sleepless in his widebrim hat after his ordeal, says it all.
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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