New Standard for Climbing Guide books!

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Messages 21 - 25 of total 25 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 15, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
There is some FA info for certain routes, but unless it was a ground breaking test piece, historic for some other reason, or your own personal ego trip, who cares?

There are a million really nice but not too overly adverterous single pitch climbs there. I'm greatful to all who took the time and money to equip the anchors. They should publish their own name on mtn. project or something if they need the specific recognition.

I guess as a visitor I want to know where a nice hand crack is more than I care about who climbed it first or what they wanted to call it or any other info about how the FAist wished to be remembered short of the original hole count.

Beyond that, knowing a bit about the area ethics and threats to continued use are good things to share with visitors, IMO.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 15, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
I dunno, could just be me, but that's what eyes looking up at rock, rather than down at pages, are for...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 15, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
I kinda like to pick which crag I'm heading to at the Creek based on which ones are stacked with the kind of climbing I feel like doing on a given. I like rolling up to the cliff with only my most essential 80 lbs. of cams and, ideally, zero unnecessary ropes.

You learn this info if you're there enough to have climbed at them all. (I can dig this, but then the issue is really, should a guidebook exist at all...not whether or not this one is nice.) Or, you can get a decent sense of things when staring at that page...in the 16+ hours of a winter day/night when it's not particularly ideal to be climbing.

It's sort of that kind of not-too-adventuresome sort of gymnastic experience for me.

I tend to leave all but 1 or 2 of my 50 closest friends and 10 favorite dogs at home, and I never make ticks next to the best jams, so I'm far less grievous in my rejection of full bore adventure on 90 ft. hand cracks than many.

If the only thing that works for you is doing info-free climbs steeped in high adventure and mystery, you're probably not a big fan of climbs that are 10 minutes from the road and take 12 of the same cam anyway. But, if you want that sort of thing without any stories, rack beta, or area info, that experience is still easily obtainable.

And there are the zillions of undone routes to the rim waiting for you too.
rick d

climber
tucson, az
May 15, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
we could just go back to mr misinformation bjornstad and his 1988 treatise on the desert!

frankly, indian creek could just have topos and a 5 word description.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 15, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
Rgold
I doubt if you remember me, but I met you when you
came out west & climbed with Howard Doyle, one of my
old buddies, back about '77 or '78. I climbed with Lotus
that day, & you & Howie were off to do Turnkorner. . .
Anyway, you've always impressed me with your comments here.
Keep 'em coming.
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