New Standard for Climbing Guide books!


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Messages 21 - 24 of total 24 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 15, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
I dunno, could just be me, but that's what eyes looking up at rock, rather than down at pages, are for...

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 15, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
I kinda like to pick which crag I'm heading to at the Creek based on which ones are stacked with the kind of climbing I feel like doing on a given. I like rolling up to the cliff with only my most essential 80 lbs. of cams and, ideally, zero unnecessary ropes.

You learn this info if you're there enough to have climbed at them all. (I can dig this, but then the issue is really, should a guidebook exist at all...not whether or not this one is nice.) Or, you can get a decent sense of things when staring at that the 16+ hours of a winter day/night when it's not particularly ideal to be climbing.

It's sort of that kind of not-too-adventuresome sort of gymnastic experience for me.

I tend to leave all but 1 or 2 of my 50 closest friends and 10 favorite dogs at home, and I never make ticks next to the best jams, so I'm far less grievous in my rejection of full bore adventure on 90 ft. hand cracks than many.

If the only thing that works for you is doing info-free climbs steeped in high adventure and mystery, you're probably not a big fan of climbs that are 10 minutes from the road and take 12 of the same cam anyway. But, if you want that sort of thing without any stories, rack beta, or area info, that experience is still easily obtainable.

And there are the zillions of undone routes to the rim waiting for you too.
rick d

tucson, az
May 15, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
we could just go back to mr misinformation bjornstad and his 1988 treatise on the desert!

frankly, indian creek could just have topos and a 5 word description.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 15, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
I doubt if you remember me, but I met you when you
came out west & climbed with Howard Doyle, one of my
old buddies, back about '77 or '78. I climbed with Lotus
that day, & you & Howie were off to do Turnkorner. . .
Anyway, you've always impressed me with your comments here.
Keep 'em coming.
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