should I retire a brand new rope after a 70ft whipper?

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erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Original Post - May 14, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
I got off route on a trad climb. I got in way over my head and took a 70 ft fall. Luckily I was OK. However, I dont know if I should retire my rope or not. The sheath appears fine. The rope was brand new prior to this climb. The rope is a beal joker 9.1 mm single rope. It is supposed to hold 5 uiaa falls. Does anybody have any suggestions?
hobo

climber
PDX
May 14, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
Cool
Mr_T

Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
May 14, 2009 - 06:48pm PT
What was the fall factor?

Fall Factor = (Distance of Fall)/(Rope Out)

erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
how do i determine what the fall factor is?
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
the distance of the fall was 70 feet. I was probably no more than 25 ft above my protection.
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
the rest was probably rope strech and slack.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
Nowhere
May 14, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
" the distance of the fall was 70 feet. I was probably no more than 25 ft above my protection."

You were 25 feet above your pro and fell 70 feet? Who was your belayer?
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
well there was a little bit of fuz on the sheath but nothing unusual and there were no flat spots.
Slabby D

Trad climber
B'ham WA
May 14, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
Yes, you should definitely retire the rope as such a long fall can result in undetectable core damage. Your life is worth more than $200 right?

For proper disposal and to ensure that no one ever uses the rope please ship to

SlabbyD Climbing Gear Disposal Corp
666 Booty Lane
Bellingham, WA 98225
hobo

climber
PDX
May 14, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
What was the length of rope out?? Meaning what was the total distance from you to your belayer measured along the rope when you fell? Falling 70 ft when your 25 ft out doesn't seem to ridiculous, good belayer.
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
i dont think the belay was bad. I have stretched my rope almost 20 ft on top rope.
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
probably about 120 feet
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
May 14, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
25 feet out and total travel of 70 feet seems reasonable.

those beal ropes can have some serious elongation. Factor in the belay probably got pulled up a bit and that there was at least a little play/slack in the rope.


Just climb on the other end and don't worry :-)
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
what is IMHO?
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
May 14, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
Fall factor was about .6

I'm not sure I'd retire it if it's brand new. And I could easily afford a new rope.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
May 14, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
Locker - close but knott quite:

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=imho
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 14, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
IMO = In My Opinion

IMHO = In My Humble Opinion

IMNSHO = In My Not So Humble Opinion

Edit: Dang...Knott beat me to it...
erik fischer

Trad climber
houston
Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
nature,

how do you come up with .6 fall factor?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 14, 2009 - 07:09pm PT
From post #3 above:

Fall Factor = (Distance of Fall)/(Rope Out)
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 14, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
if, in the deepest recesses of your reptile brain, you trust it to hold a fall -- keep using it.

if not, retire it.

it's all about confidence in your gear.
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