Lost in America: bolts or BS???

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NFB

Mountain climber
SLC UT
Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
We got off LIA last weekend and had a great trip. I don't make it out there often and I guess I'm a bit of a newb...

My question: Did anyone ever bolt that amazing free pitch???

Backstory:
Ammon told me in an email that someone had desicrated the pitch with bolts. Hiking to the base, another two guys told me they were the ones who chopped it. (thanks if true) I did not see any evidence to support the bolts but I was not exactly concentrating on looking for old holes at the time.

The Pitch when I lead it: 20 feet of nice 5.10- to a fixed head, then another 10 or 15 feet of 5.10- to good gear. Seemed like a hard Tetons pitch, super fun, maybe the best pitch on the route.

Any truth or deli lies will be appreciated and enjoyed.

Thanks
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
May 13, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
I soloed the route from June 12-19, 2003. There were two chicken rivets on the pitch, but at the time I wasn't 100% sure they were chicken rivets, so I didn't chop 'em. And yeah, I used them - otherwise I would have hooked. They were not bolts, they were regular 5/16" grade 5 machine bolts. I didn't place them.

The 5.8R variation shown in McTopo does knott exist so far as I am aware.

I think Ammon thought it rather harder than 5.10-, but then he actually free climbed it, unlike me.

Nice route.
Erik Sloan

climber
May 13, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
I think the two rivets off the belay on that pitch appeared around '04--they weren't there in '02 when I did it.

The 5.8r variation was drawn too low in the first edition Supertopo, the current vintage shows it correctly.

In '02, my partner Josh Thompson pioneered the "beeferoni variation" after all three of us failed at freeing the first moves of the pitch. The "'roni" makes a couple blade moves right off the belay to a couple hooks and then you can bust 5.8r.
Blakeb

Gym climber
Arafel
May 13, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Havent climbed the route, it and that pitch sound over my head and ballsy to say the least.

Aaron said he chopped the chicken rivets when he soloed it in 07 i believe. Assuming this is who you ran into at the base. He also said that if not soloing, falling would most likely land you on your belayer.
Ouch!
blake
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