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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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I'm getting the hang of this.
approaching the base.
first pitch anchor
I forget what pitch. somewhere on eye in the sky
ibid
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
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kind of like a trip report.
I think this is lower than the last 2.
same here.
bomber pro
scary stuff
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
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Adam claims this piton "fell out" in his hands.
inside the cave on top.
no one on the cables with the uprights down.
catching rays on the subdome
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2009 - 02:54pm PT
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pot of gold at the end of the rainbow
contraband on the pizza deck.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 10, 2009 - 03:16pm PT
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Cool stuff, Joe!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 10, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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was thinking about this thread not too long ago.
Very nice.
Oh and Greg, soz I'm clear, I wasn't suggesting you have to do the drilling. More of a call to any ASCA volunteer. Sorry, figureheads tend to get the universal 'you' directed at them. :)
"I'm not the only one with a hand drill!"
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jun 10, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Wow, what a great job someone did of impersonating Joe on the internet. They made one critical mistake however. One that let's us know that the real Joe didn't post this stuff: those who know Joe know he NEVER climbs with a shirt on.
Nice try imposter :)
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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I love knowing how to post pictures now.
the end.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
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Bump for blindingly white exhibitionist photos!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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LOL!!!
don't worry it's just Brad going for MTE (maximum tanning efficiency)
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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bump for summer slabbin
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Way to go, Joe.
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Brian B
Trad climber
Oakland
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Hey all,
Ended up doing Duceldike by accident on Saturday when I went up to do Snake Dike. This was the only post I could find on Duceldike and the only reason I knew what I was on was because I had the topo from the Don Reid which included the route; it's not in the Supertopo. I probably should have known since the only bolts I found were 1/4 rusty horror shows with the rivets half pulled out and burn gear all the way up the first pitch. My instinct is to go up, what can I say. It wasn't till after we got down that we realized the single bolts were meant to be the belay stations. We ended up just simuling after P1 (which we built off route on pro) because there was no place for belays.
What a fun sketch fest though and the 5.9R dike above the big roof was pretty good climbing in fact.
BTW does anybody know who put the FA on the Ducel?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Charles Cole, Rusty Reno, and John Middendorf 4/85
-per the Reid Free Climbs guide FA info section
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/34738/Deuceldike-on-half-dome-bolts-and-beta
"deuce4
Social climber
Pagosa Springs CO
Mar 23, 2005 - 08:13am PT
When Charles and I did Deuceldike, as a warm up to the Autobahn, there was an idea that these lousy 1/4" bolts called "taperbolts" were the "shit". In reality, they really were sh#t, not in a good way. (pardon my french). They had a little lead sleeve at the very end of a long shank. Not really sure how the rumor got started that they were good bolts, but it turns out they would loosen after a short while. I later tested them around 1987, and discovered thir flaws (results I think are on my big wall web page somewhere, a .pdf file). I think the idea was that if they loosen, you could easily tighten them again back to full strength, but who's really doing that at the crux of a pitch? I think we placed them on the Autobahn as well (but I think I remember placing good--better, anyway--1/4" Rawldrives when I led the 5.11+ pitch, not really trusting those taperbolts too much even at the time).
Plus, sometimes I think we only placed a single bolt for some belays on Deuceldike. Irresponsibile, I know, but those were the days, that was the era. It would be a great community service to replace all those bolts, maybe someone already has. One good thing about Taperbolts is that they are easy to remove--just unscrew them. Deuceldike would be a nice alternative to the Snake Dike if it was beefed up."
Sounds like the FAist wouldn't mind a retro-bolt to at least improve the belays.
Glad you guys had a fun and mostly-safe mini-epic Brian!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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FYI, the bolts on all the free climbs right of Snake Dike (Eye in the Sky to Autobahn and the original start of Autobahn)
were replaced in summer 2010 by Roger Brown:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1239761/Autobahn-The-Fast-Lane-and-Dreamscape
There was a plan to keep going and replace the routes left of Snake Dike,
but after all the tiring work on the right side in August heat,
that wasn't possible.
So the original bolts on Deuceldike and routes left are still there for the replacing.
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sep 10, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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Clint - Thanks for all the work you, Roger, Greg, et al. do to make it possible for the rest of us to continue to enjoy some of the best adventures on the planet in a reasonably safe way. I am incredibly grateful. Thank you guys!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 10, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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At least 2 of the 3 bolts in Joe's pics are split shafts (two buttonheads, and in all likelihood the thread-head bolt is a split-shaft as well). None are taper bolts (which usually have a hex head that looks like a "mini" 5-piece head, but sometimes have an allen key head).
With those 1/4" taperbolts, you can try to pull them with tuning forks before just unscrewing them, since you do get the whole lead sleeve out sometimes. If it doesn't come out (or if you just start by unscrewing the bolt - a good idea if the rock is particularly susceptible to scarring by tuning fork), it's easy to hand drill through the lead sleeve as long as you are going up in size (i.e. you wouldn't try drilling through with a 1/4" bit - the bit would get stuck).
Probably a good idea not to blow the lead-sleeve-pieces-containing dust straight into your lungs either...probably be wearing hazmat breathers if it was industrial work!
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