Previously Unreported Climbs at Joshua Tree

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Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - May 9, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
Here's some unreported stuff for those who have already done Sail Away, Double Cross and Walk on the Wild Side......(I tried to post this on Joshuatreeclimb.com, but my forum has limitations....Locker was beggin for something to do....so here it is, no nose....)



Indian Cove


Fur (5.9-5.10c*) Height dependent
Hike up Rattlesnake Canyon to the waterfall/Corral Wall fork (10 min.). Go straight up talus ( south) to two parallel curving cracks. The left one is Fur. Climb the crack to its end, mantle on a wierd thin knob/flake, climb 2 FP (crux) , and climb to the top . 2 bolt rap anchor.



Col. Flagg 5.9 *
Hike up Rattlesnake to the waterfall/Corral Wall fork ( 10 min.) Go straight up talus ( south) to two parallel curving cracks. The right one is Col. Flagg. Climb the crack to it's end, then face climb up big scoops ( 1 bolt) to a 2 bolt anchor.



Splittail 5.9+ * Up on the Hillside north of Love Comes in Spurts Boulder, is Splittail, a 2 pitch route. Pitch one goes up a steep slab past 3 bolts (5.8) to a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge. Pitch two goes up a slab past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt rap station. The boulder moves off the ledge at the start of pitch two is the crux.




Eat the Worm (5.8*)
This climb is located in a hard to find spot, on a boulder, on the direct approach to the Valley of the Kings. Hike up Rattlesnake Canyon until you are in front of The Pyramid. About here, you scramble So. and up talus and large boulders towards the Valley of the Kings. Close to the top, you will find this climb, which faces N. and starts sort of down low in a hole/cave like area. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor

Va Jayjay 5.9* Located on the cliff band west (right) of the Dune, and just before you head up the notch to Valley of the Kings from Rattlesnake Canyon. Sort of across from Snakeye Pillar. Crack to 2 bolt face to 2 bolt Rap anchor.



Taller Than Texas 5.10-
This short sport route climbs an orange heucoed wall just at the top of the waterfall section of Rattlesnake canyon......it's on the right as you head up the canyon. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Udi Slab A (5.8 R)
Udi Slab B (5.8 R)

These two slab routes are located up rattlesnake on the left. They are past the approach to Valley of the Kings, and past the Pyramid area too; so you will be boulder hopping for a bit at the end . They are both on a large low angle dark gray slab, just past the red buttress which has the climb Udi. Each climb has 2 bolts and each climb is old-school run-out. Both go to the same 2 bolt rap anchor. Both routes have 1/4 " bolts , but the anchor is newer 3/8 " bolts.




Sokolove 5.5*
This route climbs the arete past 3 bolts between Picnic and Feast on the So. face of Campfire Crag. 2 bolt rap anchor.




I Love My Marine 5.5 * (Direct; 5.10+*)
This route climbs the face to the left of Lunch, on the So. face of Campfire Crag. 3 bolts, 1 FP to a 2 bolt rap anchor. The direct starts to the right and has the one bolt and the long reach to the black knob. 60 M rope .




The Fetus (5.10-*)
This is the 5 bolt sport route just to the left of Banquet. 2 bolt rap anchor on ledge.




Shattered 5.10b PG*
This route climbs the face just left of The Fetus. There is a bolt down low to get the hands on the traversing ledge, then up past 2 more bolts to the same anchor as The Fetus.




A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari 5.7
This is the platted face on the far left side of the So. face of Campfire crag, to the right of the Heart Slab. No fixed gear, 2 bolt rap station at ledge with the small cat's claw bush. This climb starts with stemming/chimney moves to reach the plates.




Phelp's Chevrolet (5.8/5.9*)
This route is located at the top of a corridor which is left of King Ottos Castle. Phelp's Chevrolet is located at the upper left side of the corridor, and has one bolt down low, which leads to a small roof and a thin crack. Anchors visible on top. Short but good climbing.



The Beltsander. 5.10c *
This climb has one bolt at the start, which leads to an overhanging wide section, then hands to the top. It is N. facing and left of Toxic Avenger. Rap from the Baconator anchor on the back. Advise tape hands.




Baconator 5.10b*
One bolt to thin cracks to a 2 bolt anchor. Located left and around the corner from Toxic Avenger and the Beltsander. This is a good climb.




Nicole Kidman 5.8
This climb goes up the steps of scoop easily seen on a triangular formation about 100' left of Condor Rock. Start by scrambling up from the right, and traversing in to the face (irritating) with the couple of bolts. Climb up the scoops past a few bolts (easy) until it gets steeper, past a FP and to the top to a 2 bolt rap station.




Uncle Len's Pot Farm 5.9-5.10+ (Height dependent)
This 2 bolt shorty is located on the face across from the Date Queen Corridor Crack. Probably top roped before. 2 bolt anchor.




Wierd Wall Right. (5.8*)
4 bolts , some gear, to a 2 bolt rap station. This climb is located on the right side of the Wierd Wall.




Doke (5.9*)
This climbs the arete left of Apparition on Apparation Rock. 5 Bolts. Use same anchor as Appariton. Climb up cracks until you can traverse to the bottom of the arete.



Bumbling Bee 5.8*
This climb is on the left side of the Indian Pallisades Corridor, and is a few climbs left of Water Moccasin. 2 bolts and some nat. gear. This climb may have been chopped;.....unfortunate.




Little Evil 5.8*
This climb is easily seen from the Rattlesnake Parking area. Look South, and hike up talus for about 5-10 min. It is the featured face with the small roof near the top. Little Evil climbs the face, starting on the left side, and traversing to the middle, and then to the top. 4 bolts, 1 FP, some natural gear to a 2 bolt rap anchor.



The Road to Utopia 5.7*
This steep climb is located maybe 100 yrds SE of the Rattlesnake parking area. The climb faces North. Three bolts , one FP , to a 2 bolt anchor. You can place a small cam or 2 near the top, but most will treat this climb as a sport climb and take QD's only. (This route got chopped!)



I Dress Myself (5.9*)
This climb is located just to the right of The Road to Utopia. It has 3 bolts at the lower section, then cracks and a horizontal for natural gear, then 2 more bolts near the top. There is a 2 bolt rap anchor on the summit. ( This route got chopped!)

Bort 5.9** This climb is located about 30' left of the chopped routes....5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There is a 5.11 TR to the left with a 2 bolt anchor on top.

Alien Head 5.8* This climb in located about 10 min. due east of Rattlesnake Parking lot.....just a wee bit up the hillside on a small cool formation. 4 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Holly Hipkiss (5.8*) Above the Alien Head almost at the top of the hill is a big boulder. This climb goes up the face of this boulder past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Two other top ropes have been done to the left of the bolted line.






These next 6 climbs are on a formation off the Indian Cove section of the Boy Scout Trail. The formation is called The Monkey's Paw

Weiner Inspector 5.8*
This is the far left route. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The easy crack to the right of Weiner Inspector has been climbed too (5.2)

My Naughty Little Donkey 5.8*
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 2nd bolted route fromt he left.

Meth Mart 5.10-*
Starts out with a thin crack on natural pro, then to 2 bolts and up to the anchor on My Naught Little Donkey

Woody's Whirlpool Bath 5.10-*
This is the steep route whcih starts out in the large heuco, and then goes up past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt rap station on a ledge; This climb does not go to the top of the formation.

Bongo Johnnie 5.9*
This route climbs past 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It is the furthest right bolting line.

Gay Hooker's Convention 5.3
The easy crack right of Bongo Johnnie.




The next 4 climbs are on the large N. Facing formation just west of Big Top, and the last climbable rock on the left as you hike out on the Boy Scout Trail from Indian Cove. About 20-30 min. approach. These climbs are on the right side of the large mass of rock, with I smell Bacon being in one of the N/S canyons.

Dick Cheny 5.10d **
This climb goes past bolts to a 2 bolt rap station. The climb faces N. and is towards the right side of the large mass of rock.

Shot in the Face 5.11+ (TR)
This climbs very difficult crack right of D. Cheny.

Scooter 5.6
This is a trad climb just on the corner, right of Shot in the face, and just before you enter a N/S canyon.

I Smell Bacon 5.10a*
This cool route goes up chocolate colored rock past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



The Iron Sausage

These next two climbs are on a formation called The Iron Sausage, which is located high on the hillside west of Indian Cove. You can see this formation from the main highway, way up high, and it looks like the shell of a turtle (or tortoise). It is on the top of the mountainside west Indian Cove, and is approached by hiking up the Boy Scout Trail for about 1/2 and hour until you can go up and to the right, up the side of the hill to the formation. About 1 hour approach.

Knights of the Iron Sausage 5.10-*
This cool climb starts at the base of the Iron Sausage and starts in a very obvious splitter finger crack. When the crack ends , there is a fixed pin. Up a bit higher there is one bolt. Climb up 150' to the top. Rap off the back side off of knobs (Or do a short but dicey 5th class downclimb).

Phallograph 5.10- *
This climb is located just to the right of Knights of the Iron Sausage, and has 4 bolts to an easy splitter hand crack and the top.


Del Taco Crags (29 Palms, across from the Del Taco)

Howling Monkey 5.7* This climb goes up the start of Clifton Giblett (5.10c) and then goes straight right past some bolts to a stance with a rap anchor. This climb doesn not go to the top of the crag.



The next 8 routes are all located in the 49 Palms area, outside of 29 Palms.

Apply Directly to the Forehead 5.5*
This climb is located on the very large boulder seen east of the parking area. Walk directly over to the boulder and you will see the route, which faces the parking lot. 2 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. There are other TR possibilities, all harder than 5.5 . The anchor on top has been there for years.

Phil Legget 5.7*
This climb is located on the formation just south of the Apply Directly to the Forehead boulder. It is easily seen from the parking lot as well, and the climb faces the parking lot too. The climb starts with a left slanting crack, then goes past one bolt, then continues on more natural gear up to a 2 bolt anchor.

Ten Hits of Window Pane 5.7*
This climb is visible on the drive into the 49 Palms parking area. Just before you reach the parking lot, you can see a ridge of climbing rock off to the south of the parking lot. Hike up the 49 Palms trail only for a few minutes, then cut off to the right and hike past a huge eggs shaped boulder with a steep dike on it (Project; 2 bolts on top and has been tried on a TR......5.11+?...we couldn't do it....). Keep hiking all the way to the furthest right climbable rock, and you will find this climb. It is still down low, and only maybe 5-10 min. from the parking lot. The climb goes up past one bolt, then some natural gear, then past another bolt or two near the top to a 2 bolt anchor.

Funky President 5.10c**
This climb is up on the hillside above and south of the parking lot. It is best approached by hiking back along the paved road, then hiking up the talus to the climb. Funky President is on a separate formation, all by itself, aways to the right of the clump of summit boulders easily seen from the main highway and parking lot. The formation is the furthest right most climbable rock formation, and has a left to right slanting crack bisecting the formation/boulder. This is Funky President. The climb is quite strenous and starts with a wide section (crux) which leads to a vertical shallow corner and the top. I believe there is an anchor on top.

Respect Your Peeps. 5.7/5.8*
This route is located on a separte formation or small buttress of rock between Funky President and the summit boulders. It is way up on the hillside, and a few min. hike to the left of Funky President. Climb the steep face on big holds past a few bolts, and 1 FP to the top. Anchors on top.

Rim Marksinkus 5.9**
This climb is in the group of boulders and rocks which one would call the summit boulders, high on the hillside south of the parking lot. Once again, to approach, hike back on the paved road form a minute or two, then hike way up the talus to the summit boulders. This climb in on the right side of the group of rocks, and has 2 bolts to a obvious thin finger crack. No anchors on top, but a large boulder to easily sling for the anchor. Short but excellent climbing.

Snottrockets 5.7*
This climb is located just to the left of Rim Marksinkus, and starts in a chimney, then up a blunt arete past a few bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Demon Decons 5.7*
This climb is located on the far left edge of the summit boulders. Climb up the face past maybe 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.




An Erection Lasting Longer Than 4 Hours. 5.9*
This climb is located on a small buttress on the hillside, behind a new watertank, up on the hillside, in the town of 29 Palms, just west of Stater Brothers but east of the 49 Palms turn off...... from the main highway. It is not on the biggest main gray colored face, but a buttress left of the main face. ( We tried to TR the main face, which has a slanting thin crack on it, but we were unsuccessful; probably 5.11+). The climb goes up a steep buttress past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Marv the Mangler 5.9+
This climb is located near the hospital in Joshua Tree, east of town. It is located on an obvious buttress of rock not far from where you park your car. (Bonita Street). It is east the the crags which are behind the hospital. 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor . The crack to the right has been led too at 5.10-.


B.O. #33 5.7
This crappy climb goes past 1 bolt and some nat. gear to the summit of a small clump of rock between Mav the Mangler and the Hospital Crags. Park under Marv the Mangler, hike west and you will see the formation off to the north. This climb sucks. There is a bolted anchor on top to rap off of. You go past this as you approach the Hospital Crags.





Indian Head Area


Manboobs 5.9 TR*
This climb is on the large boulder about 1/2 way up the approach gully to Indian Head. The route is short, but too high for me to boulder, and goes up the middle of the boulder. Easy TR set-up from crack at the top of the boulder.


Tart And Tiny 5.7 *
This is a 3 bolt climb on the rock the is just east of Open Winfrey. The rock is reached by hiking through the tunnel, and as you exit the tunnel, it's on your right. It has this bolted face on it's right side, a crack which doesn't reach the ground, but bi-sects the formation, and an excellent ( un-named) TR on it's left side. There are 2 bolts on the top .


Chubs. 5.7*
Climb up to the 2nd bolt of Tart and Tiny, and traverse left into the obvious crack system. Rap from the Tart and Tiny anchors.



Un-named 5.10+**

This climb goes up the left side of the face on small holds. I believe it has it's own anchor on top.


Southern Cornbread 5.8*
This climb goes up the face and then up a detached flake of rock to the right of Open Winfrey. The climb starts just before the entrance to the tunnel-through cave, and starts on top of a flake/pedistal. 5 bolts to the Open Winfrey anchors.



Fried Okra 5.7/5.8*

This 3 bolt climb goes up the face on the formation above Feck and Big Ass Ellie May. There is a large boulder on top to use for an anchor. After you tunnel through the chimney section, just hike to the left about 10 yards and you'll see the climb.



Pinto Basin

These two climbs are located on large bouders or small cliffbands up on the hillside east of loveland. The formations are easily seen from the main highway, near the junction where the road turns off to Cottonwood. Look up and N. and you will see the formations.

Blow the Scro 5.10-*
Climb the wide to hands crack in a right facing corner.

Alleuz, Didieau 5.9/5.10-*
This climb is located on the formation to the left of Blow the Scro, and climbs a crack system which peters out in one section (1 bolt) then starts up again and goes to the top.



Split Rocks

Crimpergirl 5.10a *
4 bolts , some natural gear in a crack to a 2 bolt anchor. Located on the formation of rocks to the left of Morongo Man.

Clifford. 5.6
Chimney climb between Crimpergirl and Morongo Man.

Jakeass 5.8*
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This climb is located up the trail past Morongo Man on a huge boulder to the left just as you crest the hillside. The climb is on the face that you see as you approach the rock. (South face)

Conan's Corridor

Boulderado (AKA California Face) 5.10+/5.11- ** This is the 10 bolt face climb right of Colorado Crack. It was previously top roped .



Echo Cove

A Dot of Culture 5.6 A crappy route to may 15 feet to the left of Ben Dover.....didn't go the way we wanted it to go...



Towers of Uncertainty Geo Tour


Slumdog 5.7 * This the left of 2 routes above and left of Gravity Rock Over a small roof, up a crack, then past some bolts, ending with a few tied off horns/chickenhead. 2 bolt anchor on top. Walk off back and to the right.

I'll Sleep When I'm Dead 5.7 This is the right of the two routes up and left of Gravity Rock. Turn a roof (fp), and go up a crack, then up past a few bolts to the top. Bolted anchor on top. Walk off back and to the right.

My Penis Floats 5.11- 4 bolts to natural gear anchor Left Side of Reef Rock

The Greedy Goat 5.10+ Maybe 5 or 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Backside of Demon Dome( So. Face)

Karen Carpender Corner 5.7 W. Face of Reef Rock
Gateraid in my Navel 5.10- W. Face of Reef Rock

Miss Wiener Tot 5.10+ 5 bolts to a rap anchor. This climb is located very close to the road at around mile marker 4, on the left (east) side of the road, and goes up the left side of the formation.





Munchkinland Hillside

Past the Munchkinland routes in the Vogel Guide, up on the hillside, are some more climbs

These routes are located on a crag on the hillside, quite visible from lower Munchkinland. It's the main big cliff band, and very obvious.

Rampire (left) 5.8 Up a crack, then do a short traverse left to another crack . Bolted anchor on top Better of the 2 routes
Rampire (right) 5.8 Straight up the crack. Poor rock.

Rumpire 5.8* Cool chimney climb towards the left side of the crag.

Buttmilk* 5.8 crack in the middle of the face.

The Floater 5.10b* This is the thin crack to the left of Rumpire

These 2 climbs are further up the hill, just befor the notch, but still visible from the road

Handful of Dickie 5.9+ 4 bolts to a natural anchor (a big tied off rock)

Leading with the Dimple 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor on a small pillar/block face.

Other



Safe Sex Zone ( just uphill and past the Safe Zone)

Goop Gobbler 5.8 * This climb goes up past 3 or 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Walk off on the back. This is the climb on the smaller boulder on the far right side of the rocks. A 5.11 TR has been done right of the bolted line.

That's What She Said 5.8* Up a corner past bolts then up a slab finish. Located on the right side of the crag, just left of the obvious crack (Haber Crack 5.7) 2 bolt anchor on top.

Gizm Prizm 5.9+ 5 bolts up and left of Haber Crack 2 bolt anchor on top.

Inspect Her Gadget 5.8 This climbs a face past a couple of bolts, then up an arete. Tie off a big piece of the rock on top for an anchor. This is the bolted climb right of Clitorus Rub (5.7), which is the furthest left bolted line on the crag.

Clitorlus Rub. 5.7* This is the 3 bolt climb on the far left side of the crag. 2 bolt anchor on top.

Good Will Humping 5.9+ This is a 3 bolt steep short face climb behind Inspect Her Gadget. 2 bolt anchor on top.


These next 4 routes are on a large formation past the Safe Sex Zone and past the Safe Zone. The formation is visible from the road just before you enter the Park before the kiosk of the east entrance .

Beer is Good 5.8* This is the middle of 3 bolted routes, and the easiest of the 3. Climb up past maybe 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pheromone 5.9* This is the right of 3 bolted climbs and goes up past 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This is the best of the 3 bolted climbs.

The Wild Goose 5.10 b This is the left of the 3 bolted lines, and goes up past 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Arkansass 5.10c * This is the obvious crack line to the left of the bolted routes. Go up a crack ( crux), traverse right to another crack system, over a roof to a crow's nest, then up a chimney to the top. Easy walk off to the right.


Queen Mountain

These next two climbs are in an area between Walt's Rocks and Olympic Dome;...not in any guide, but there are alot of climbs alread done in this area....
Dirtineye 5.9* Crack climb with 3 bolts for short face sections. Slings on top for rap. Need 2 ropes to rap off.

Stark Naked 5.8 * Across from Dirtineye 5 bolts and some natural gear in cracks. Rap from slings on summit horns.


Tower of Power Dome (Queen Mountain)

Five Barmaids in my Pocket (5.10b/c*) 4 bolts to crack.......2 bolt rap station at top. Located on left side of Tower of Power Dome.







Key's Point Area


Keeping the Dragon at Bay 5.9* Crack to 2 bolt anchor this climb is right of Steeper than it Looks, and left of Broken Plates

Cherry Glazer 5.9* 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Climbs the face right of Key Crack.

Puss Boy 5.9 Knobs and a couple of bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Located in the face right of Key Knob.



Pernicious Dome, N. Wonderland

Mortal Thoughts 5.10c* Located just underneath Dreams of Red Rocks (and just right of The Gourmet Sausage ) Bolts, and natural gear at the top. 2 bolt anchor on top.


Asian Fever Area (A formation SW of Asian Fever Buttress)
There are 4 routes on the west face of this formation. The two routes on the left side have 2 bolts each, as well as some natural gear. The left most route is the 5.10 one.


Licking the Toad 5.8 natural gear, 2 bolts, and more natural gear. Goes over a small roof

Licking Wood 5.10a natural gear, 2 bolts , and more natural gear. This is the left most route.



Brett Pinar on The Alien Head (5.10a)
F10

Trad climber
e350
May 9, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
Thanks Todd, great timing no crowds
10b4me

Ice climber
Rustys Saloon
May 9, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
thanks Todd
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
May 9, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
You're such a couch potato!
GDavis

Trad climber
May 9, 2009 - 07:41pm PT
....... man you sure are lazy. Thats like, more routes than I've even CLIMBED.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 9, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
Stuff has nothing on Sail Away.
Totally lacking in POLISH.
Fletcher

Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
May 9, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
Nice!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 9, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
Thanks Todd!!!!!!!
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
May 9, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
Great job, Todd. Looking forward to getting down there and seeing you and those routes, soon!
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
May 10, 2009 - 12:01am PT
Damn, dude.... Nice report!!!!

Many too many, and much too much to do an a day... and it will take me one to get down there to tick them all!!!

Good times ahead...


locker

Social climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Jun 26, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
THANKS TODD!!!...

GOT IT!!!...







"Bumbling Bee 5.8*
This climb is on the left side of the Indian Pallisades Corridor, and is a few climbs left of Water Moccasin. 2 bolts and some nat. gear. This climb may have been chopped;.....unfortunate."...



Woody and I had always planned on putting it back up...

So...

it's going back up...








Fluoride

Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Jun 26, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
Which of these have I been along on? I know I was there for the Iron Sausage, Queen Mtn, Indian Cove, Geo Tour and what else.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
Here's some more for those bored with Walk on the Wild Side or Double Cross............



Indian Cove


McStain 5.8* 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Quick Draws only Campfire Crag So. Face Located just left of the route Picnic.

Nic Traverse 5.8 ** This 9 bolt climb is up Rattlesnake Canyon at the Stealth Pillar Area. Start just behind the Stealth Pillar at a tree, and go up and right past 9 bolts to a 2 bolt belay. The route follows a white dike.

Dig for Fire 5.8** 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor Stealth Pillar area. On a N. Facing wall right of the Stealth Pillar.

Monkey Gone to Heaven 5.8* 3 bolts (some gear) to 2 bolt anchor. Nic Traverse joins this climb for the last 2 bolts. Located on wall just left of Stealth Pillar. Goes up a fat white dike at the start.

Kentucky Waterfall A2+** This route is located on a formation west of the end loop past Moosedog Tower. Hike west for about 10 minutes in the wash and look up and south. This cool aid climb traverses left to right under a huge roof. Take 5 or 6 RURPs or copperheads. There are 2 fixed pins, and one fixed stopper. Rap Station at the end of the traverse.

Erotic Driving 5.11- This interesting route takes a line up a large wall, just left of Kentucky Waterfall. Follow bolts up a featured face until a hand crack is reached. The final moves surmount a summit cap by an O W crack. Anchor on top. This climb is mostly 5.10- , with one 5.11 move, past a bolt. From the end loop past Moosedog, hike about 10 min. and look up and south. Erotic Driving goes up the face just left of the huge roof.

Jimmy Biggerstaff 5.10b* Located about 1/2 mile east of the end loop past Moosedog. Walk for about 1/2 hour to obvious largest dark buttress, seen as you approach. The climb goes past a few bolts, then up cracks to a sling anchor on a tied off section of rock. The climb faces North.

These next four climbs are located at the crags behind the hospital in Joshua Tree. The are located in the Joshua Tree Nation Park. I will try to get photos up soon. (some year).

Gordon Branch 5.10-* crack

All in the Family 5.10 b/c ** Hands over a roof to bolted face 2 bolt anchor

Early Retirement 5.8* bolts on a slab buttress to 2 bolt anchor

Burkuleese 5.8 crack , located to the left of Early Retirement


Guam 5.9 This climb can be seen from the 29 Palms Highway, about 1 mile E. of the town of Joshua Tree. Look for a diamond shaped spire on the hillside. 3 or 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Unknown 5.8* Far right side of Indian Palasides Corridor 3 bolts up a waterchute (Use anchor for climbs that are to the left)

Mother of All Spires 5.9 * Possibly the longest approach to any climb in the Park Start at the 49 Palms Oasis Parking lot and hike for 2-3 hours. 60-70 " Spire Crack/flake to the top. 2 bolts on top. This spire can be seen from the highway; look way up and to the south as you drive toward 29 Palms about a few minutes past the Indian Cove road. It looks like a black finger way up on the hillside.

Fubar 5.7 * Climbs a dike on the E. Face of the largest formation west of Indian Cove Group Camp Ground Road. Route faces east. As you hike west, this formation is the large formation to the NW, a few bolts at the start, some natural gear, to a 2 bolt anchor.

Sweeny 5.7 Climb a crack to 1 or 2 bolts on a face (2 bolt anchor) This is on Hodgepodge Rock, South Face, up and right of the routes in the Guide.

STFU n00b 5.4 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor on a bumpy featured face. Left side of Kramer Corner area.

Girl Power 5.0
Baby Steps 5.0 These two bolted climbs are on a very low agle slab behind the Iceberg Boulder. Bolts on top of slab.

Iceberg New Routes Louie's New Routes Cold Fusion 5.13a, Cold Shoulders 5.11c, Deception 5.12c, Hot Tamale 5.13b, Icebreaker 5.12d



Pinto Basin



Feck 5.10-
Big Ass Ellie May 5.9 These 2 climbs are located on a small boulder in front of the climb Lukachukai. The area is the cliffs and boulders on the right just before you get to Indian Head. Both have one bolt at the start. Feck is the right climb. Both climbs face East.

May a Dick Grow Out of Your Forehead 5.9* 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Indian Head

Everyone But Larry 5.8 * 1 or 2 bolts to crack (1 fp), another bolt near top 2 bolt anchor Indian Head Area

Make a Joyful Noise to the Lord 5.10-* 4 or 5 bolts to anchor Indian Head Area

Henry Moore 5.8 1 or 2 bolts. Anchor is sling on horn Indian Head Area Located between Open Winfrey and May a Dick Grow Our Of Your Forehead.

Lukachukai 5.7 * 3 or 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Indian Head Area

Paris Hilton 5.11- This climb faces east and is on the huge bump just North of Indian Head. As you approach Indian Head, this formation is actually part of the Indian Head massive. 2 bolts (crux) lead to a 100' 5.8 crack. Walk off.

Wet Behind, Dry Wallet 5.10c** Oz Area Hollywood Boulders Climb up past around 7 bolts on the biggest of the Hollywood Boulders. Faces West. Anchor on top. Excellent climb.

God Speed 5.10-* 3 bolts to anchor. Behind Marsupial Lust ( which is behind Lesbian Lust). Oz Area

Re-Todd Gore-dumb 5.10-* 5 bolt climb on boulders abouve the wash on the right as you hike into Oz main wash. Can be seen from the road. On the first boulder you see as you enter the wash . 2 bolts on top. An easier climb (Gorehole 5.6) has been climbed to the right.

Dinky 5.7 Located just east of Re-Todd Gore-dumb. 1 bolt on small slab. Crack at start.


Sinking the Bismark 5.10a* 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor, on large boulder (The Bismark) about 1/2 mile west of Hen House. This group of boulders lies between the Zebra Cliffs and the Hen House and climbs the east face of the largest boulder.

Screw The Pooch 5.8* 2 or 3 bolts to anchor Located to the right of Sinking the Bismark There is a 2 bolt climb on another boulder to the right (north) and on the north side of the boulder (rating unknown)

Peacoat Sleve 5.10b* 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Zebra Cliffs Area Located right of Bad Brains (5.9)

Baby Tool 5.10b* This climb is in the group of rock formations east of the Hen House (Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area). Baby Tool climbs up large plates (slings on plates for pro), then to a headwall past 3 bolts (2 bolt anchor). The route is in a cove in the NE most formations and faces South.

Proper B. T. 5.10b** This excellent route climbs past 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. It is located on the west end of the rock formation east of the Hen House (Dr. Haney's Tool Shed). The route faces west and is just left of a finger-shaped spire.

I'm Not a Doctor, But I'll Have a Look 5.8 This route climbs up the bumpy face left of Proper B. T., past 2 bolts, then follows a crack to the top. The crack on either side of this face have been climbed also and are around 5.6/5.7.

Bumpus Hell 5.9 4 or 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The route ascents "bumps" on a pitted face at Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area ( Formations E. of Hen House). This route face south and is in the southern Area of the formations.

Dr. Haney 5.8* 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area. SE of the formations. Goes up SW edge of a large dark boulder.

Broke Back Burke 5.8 Dr. Haney's Tool Shed Area (Formations East of the Hen House) Faces North, has a couple of bolts, and some natural Gear. First bolt is sort of high. 2 bolts on top.

Fugly 5.10c 4 or 5 bolts lead to a 2 bolt anchor. Located on a small formation facing the Hen House Area. Route Faces south. Route climbs on gritty rock and black intrusions.

Oral Sturgeon 5.10b* Up at the Beluga Boulders (Top of the mountain above The Bond Boulders), over on the left is a very obvious spliter crack (faces east). start with and O W crack, then splitter hands, then gritty hands over a roof ( crux). No fixed anchor on top, no fixed gear on the climb.

Urdu 5.9** 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Beluga Boulders Area. Located on largest Boulder . Route faces East. This climb is easy to find as it is the first boulder you come to. The face to the right has been top roped (5.11-)

Eat Beluga 5.9* 3 or 4 bolts (some gear) to a 2 bolt anchor. Route faces north and is in the northern most boulders at the top of the hill, above the Bond Boulders at Split Rock Area.

Bird Eating Spider 5.8** Cool climb on arete. South facing on large boulder between Beluga Boulders and Morongo Man.. Can be seen from Split Rocks Parking Lot. 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

I Eat Crayons 5.8 2 bolts (bolted anchor on top) Elf's Hat Magic Mountian Area N. Arete

More than One Way to Skin a Cat 5.10-* Far left side of Peta Crag. 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Goes over a small roof.....Starts up the rock a ways.

Coxcomb Mountains (Put in Pinto Basin)

Pope in a Box 5.10b Has a few bolts and some trad gear. 2 bolt anchor (Picture and map to follow)

Connected at the Liver 5.10- (TR) To the left of above route

Compromised 5.10+* Located on Becky's Buttress, left of Road Dogs 8 bolts to anchor












Central Joshua Tree



Turd Burgler A2+/A3- * This is the thin seam/hairline crack behind Dweeb Spire at Snickers Area. The climb goes up , then traverses straight left at the top. Take some thin pins, RURPs, copperheads . No anchor at the top. Walk off to the South.

Jesus Saw you Take It 5.9 A2+/A3- * A wild and challenging aid route over on Snickers. This route starts just right of Dweeb Spire, and traverses right, eventually going up over a sizable roof on some fixed gear. There are a few bolts and a few fixed pins and copperheads. Probaby will go all clean with the iron already fixed.

Humerous 5.10b* 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor Some gear needed. Located between Funny Bone and Don't Think.

Joyride 5.11c* Located right of Norweigan Wood 8 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Ivo's Route 5.12 There is a new climb on the N. Face of Snickers It goes over a huge roof.

Rad Nad 5.10-** 5 bolts (some gear, slings for knobs) to 2 bolt anchor. Located just left of Energy Crisis. Little Hunk N.E. Face.

Changes 5.11c* 9 bolts Up and left of Blues Traveler

Ma and Pa 5.10- * These two climbs are located on the end of the formation , just right of Wage and Price Ceiling and Monkey Business (Little Hunk SE pace.) Bolts to anchor

Physical Grafitti 5.10+*** This 2 pitch classic route climbs up the W. Face of the formation east of Little Hunk. Pitch one goes left to right up a faint white dike. Belay from bolts in a cave. Pitch two goes straight left, up , then left again to an anchor. Excellent!

Mushroom Crack 5.10+ Difficult and nasty crack to the left of Physical Grafitti. Has a wide section at the top.

My Balls Feel like A Pair of Marachas 5.9* This short yet cool climb ascends a sharp pinnicle just above the climb Three Musketeers, near little Rock Candy. 2 bolts and 2 FP. to a 2 bolt anchor. Route goes up the right (east) arete.

Mummy Dearest 5.8 Trad route. Thin gear to 2 bolt anchor. Located at a crag called The Crypt, which is between Hall of Horrors and Planet X. The climbs face the road.

Serf City 5.8* 3 bolts to 2 bolts belay.

Tomb Raider 5.10+* 4 bolts to 2 bolt belay Wild mantel move (crux).

Tora Bora 5.11c* 8 bolts No anchor on top Located on Rat Rock right of Winning Time

Echo Cove There are 3 or more newish bolted routes to the left of Big Moe. I've done one which was 5.10 and fun. Snoop around and you'll find them.






Wonderland


Shu Pou 5.7 A1 * This very,very steep aid climb is out on the huge overhanging wave-like face of the big boulder just north of Parapsychology Dome (Telekinesis). This route faces south, and starts with a long bolt ladder, as the climb turns the roof, there is another bolt, a fixed copperhead, then free climb on jugs and plates to the top. Rap from the summit.

Tits on a Bull 5.11-** This route goes up a buttress on the south (left) side of the wash going out to the Wonderland. This route is mostly protected by bolts, but take some gear, especially at the start. The buttress is before Ash Gordon, and Star Wars Rock, and is the first large buttress on the left. Anchor on top.

Brett's TR 5.10c * Climb the face left of Gandy (Mongolia Area n. Wonderland) on Horn Tower.

The Teabag 5.10b** Excellent face route on a formation just behind Nomad Dome. Located right of the climb Mesopotamia. 5 bolts Anchor is sling on horns. Faces East.

Red, White, and Boys 5.9* 4 bolts to anchor. The route can be seen from Uncle Willies. Look for a brown face NE of Uncle Willies. Hike 5 minutes up a wash from Uncle Willies to this So. facing route.

Liver Brothers 5.8 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Located on a big boulder in front of the Grey Giant. The boulder lies in the wash.

Welfare Mothers, Drugs, and Speed. 5.8 Crack to face (2 bolts) to 2 bolt anchor. Located on fromation just left of Laugh Rock

Cactus Challenge 5.8/5.9 * Bolted face on the right side of Super Slab (2 bolt anchor)

Andre the Giant 5.6* 180' face climb on Tombstone , right of Turtle Days. 4 bolts to rap station (slings on large block).



Geo Tour, Queen, Desert Queen Mine


Booby Love 5.11-* (TR) This cool top rope is on a boulder on the south end of the clump of Rocks across from the Lechlinsky Crack off of Geo Tour. The route faces south, and starts off the desert floor, on an obvious large boulder. Bolts on top . The left Arete has been top roped too at 5.10-.

Martin Luther's Thing. 5.10c * Hand/fist crack left of the 2nd pitch of Milk Arete. Start off of the ledge top of the first pitch of Milk Arete.

Electric Parade 5.8* This climb goes up a south-facing buttress past bolts (fixed pin?) to a 2 bolt anchor. Located on the rock formation across from the Lechlinski Cracks. Look at the South end, up in the talus a bit. Faces South.

Tie your Mother Down 5.7* 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor South facing slab route Located down and left of Little Man in the Boat and Ho Bag (Up and right from Win Dixie)

Lava Dome (W. Face ) 5.9 * 3 bolts 5.10+* 5 bolts




Lost Horse




The Da Vinci Code 5.10c* 1 bolt, 1 fixed beak, leads to a slot (crux) and a 2 bolt anchor. Far left side of Brian's Crag

Sharon Stone 5.10- This climb is located on the boulders on top of the rise above the Hound Rocks, and up and right of White Cliffs of Dover. The climb faces west and has a few bolts at the start. 2 bolt anchor. The formation cannot be see from the road. There are also two other climbs that we saw up there.....an obvious west facing corner which was 5.9 and had 2 bolts at the top, and on the top of the hill, a difficult looking face climb with 2 bolts.

Fah-Q 5.10c T R on far right side of Brian's Crag. Starts in shallow left facing corner




Hidden Valley




The Gay Germans 5.10c Climb the face on the left side of Pitted Rock. Climbs past 3 or 4 bolts , with a crack at the top. Bolts on the top.

Sponge Worthy 5.10-* T R on the far left side of the Thin Wall (Just left of Child's Play)












Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 03:53pm PT
Floride;.....I see your name on a few of these;....some good times at the crags our friends;....and this season;....lots more....(This is a partial list from the last few years....)


1. K P's Pot Belly 5.5 A2 M. Loehr
2. Amature Sheep Shaggers (A. S. S.) 5.7 A3 G. Armstrong
3. Sleezy Morman A2/3 M. Ross
4. Hey McCleod, Get Off Of My Ewe A 2+ G. Armstrong
5. Jesus Saw You Take It 5.9 A3 F. Haney
6. Shu Poo A2 G. Armstrong, K. Burnham
7. Turd Burgler A2+ M. Weber
8. Kentucky Waterfall A 2+ T. Pinar
9. Tits on a Bull 5.11- T. Tech
10. Booby Love 5.11 T. Tech, T. Pinar
11. Paris Hilton 5.11 T. Burke
12. Derrick's Route (King Dome) 5.10c D. Reinig, T. Tech
13. Riding The Cotton Pony 5.11 T. Tech, T. Burke
14. Dirty Pinch 5.11 M Synek, Martin, T. Tech, Eileen
15. Matt's Arete 5.11 M.Hind, T. Tech
16. Honkey Justice 5.11 (A1) R. Vogel, , C Bransford, Craig
17. Milk Arete 5.11 C. Bransford
18. Randy The Riveter 5.8 T. Swain
19. Rumblers Below the Foof 5.3 P. Buckey, C. Bransford, D. Phillips
20. Like My Lump 5.10a D. Evans, M. Floyd
21. The Conundrum 5.11c T. Beatty
22. The Todd Squad 5.11a T. Beatty
23. Gordoba 5.10c A. Bartlett, P. Brennan
24. Land of Wonder 5.10c A. Bartlett, D. Evgans, J. Angione, P. Brennan
25. Matt Biondi Chimney 5.5 F. S.
26. Body Shaving For Competition 5.9 J. Angione, D. Evans, C. Fry, T. Burke
27. Icon 5.10c D. Evans, T. Beatty, J. Angionee, T. Burke, T. Beck, C. Fry
28. Johnnie Come Lately 5.10+ D. Wonderly, D. Evans, C. Fry, S. Lennard
29. Glue Rhymes With Poo 5.10a D. Evans, M. Floyd, H. Morrison, M. Rodrigue
30. That's Powell, Not Rowell 5.10a K. Powell, M. Rodrigue, E. Evans
31. Fah-Q 5.10c T. Tech
32. The Da Vinci Code 5.10c T. Tech, T. Pinar
33. Fugly 5.10+ T. Tech, S. Powers
34. Erotic Driving 5.11 (5.10+ A1) T. Tech, B. Shilliday
35. Wierd Wall (Center) 5.10c (T R ) T. Tech
36. Hayfield Crack 5.10+ T. Tech, G. Epperson, T. Burke, Jack
37. Wet Behind, Dry Wallet 5.10c T. Tech, Becca, M. Weber
38. Craig 5.10+ T. Tech, C. Fry, D. Evans, T. Burke, R. Stahl
39. The Green Vinyl 5.10+ T. Tech
40. The Gay Germans 5.10c T. Tech, Locker
41. Celine 5.10+ T. Tech, F. Haney, T. Pinar
42. Martin Luther's Thing 5.10c T. Tech
43. Isles in Sky T R 5.10+ F. Haney
44. Reggie Dome new Route 5.10+ S. Powers, T. Tech
45. Clifton Giblet 5.10c T. Tech, S. Powers
46. Leon Redbone 5.10c T. Tech, S. Powers
47. I Pee in Pools 5.10c T. Tech
48. Nuptial Sac 5.10c T. Burke, T. Tech
49. Udi 5.10+ J. Collela, T. Burke
50. One Eyed Frog 5.10+ T. Tech
51. O W by Ground Ron 5.10+ T. Tech
52. Blow 5.10c F. Haney
53. Baby Pillows 5.10c T. Tech, Cora, Blitzo
54. Get off My Sister 5.10+ T. Tech, M. Synek, Danny, T. Burke
55. Dimpled Chad 5.10c T. Tech, M. Synek
56. Kalkoski Crack 5.10+ M . Kalkoski, G. Armstrong
57. Butt Nugget 2000 5.10+ T. Tech
58. Saving Ryan's Privates 5.10c T. Tech, Matt
59. Potatoe Gun 5.10+ Arturo
60. Mane Resolution 5.11 D. Reinig
61. Buttered Chicken 5.10c J. Wilson
62. K. P. Finger Crack (Galapogas) 5.10+ K. Powell
63. Soapy Tit Wank 5.10+ N. Conway
64. Right Appendectomy 5.10+ T. Michael
65. Phallograph 5.10- B. Chambers, R. Ashbachar, Stephan, T. Tech, Blitzo
66. Knight of the Iron Sausage 5.10b T. Tech, Will, B. Shilliday
67. Crimpergirl 5.10- J. Adams, T. Tech, Blitzo, K. Henderson, Will
68. Blo the Scro 5.10b T. Tech, Will
69. Alleuz, Didieau 5.10- T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Will , Blitzo
70. Sinking the Bismark 5.10- T. Tech
71. Baby Tool 5.10b T. Pinar, B. Pinar, T. Tech
72. Proper B. T. 5.10b B. Spears, B. Shilliday, W. Stark, T. Tech
73. Oral Sturgeon 5.10b T. Tech, K. Burnham
74. My Balls Feel Like a Pair of Marachas 5.9 R. Adler
75. The Teabag 5.10b T. Tech
76. Jimmy Biggerstaff 5.10b T. Tech
77. D. E. Route (Hayfield) D. Evans, Rico, T. Burke, T. Tech
78. Feck 5.10- T. Tech
79. Pope in a Box 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
80. Connected at the Liver 5.10- T. Tech, T. Burke, L . Lavoire
81. Sharon Stone T. Tech, K. Henderson, T. Burke, Blitzo, M. Heinz
82. Krystal Ball 5.10- T. Tech, M. Weber
83. Re-Todd Gore-Dumb 5.10- T. Tech, T. Burke
84. Bemp 5.10b T. Tech, T. Pinar
85. Make a Joyful Noise to the Lord 5.10-0 L. Lavoire, G. Lake, T. Tech, D. Reinig
86. Sponge Worthy 5.10b T. Pinar
87. Black Eel 5.10- T. Tech
88. Milk Face 5.10- T. Tech, T. Burke
89. More Than One Way to Skin a Cat 5.10b T. Tech
90. The Shank 5.10- T. Tech, T. Pinar, F. Haney, S. Powers
91. Peacoat Sleeve 5.10b T. Burke, L. Lavoire, T. Tech, A J Burch, D. Evans
92. All in the Family 5.10b T. Burke, T. Tech, L. Lavoire, S. Snyder, B. Shilliday, K. Bowl
93. Gordon Branch 5.10- T. Burke, K. Bowl, T. Tech, S. Snyder, L Lavoire, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
94. God Speed 5.10- T. Tech, L. Lavoire, T. Burke
95. Booby Love Arete 5.10- T. Pinar, T. Tech, Zack, Lori Butts
96. Reverend Dick Shook 5.10b T. Tech, G. Epperson
97. Open Winfrey 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
98. Wind Burn 5.10- T. Pinar
99. Yvonne 5.10b Ryan
100. Lil' Climber Chick 5.10b T. Tech, F. Haney
101. Barry Manilow 5.10- T. Tech, Ryan, Friend
102. Blake 5.10- S. Powers, F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
103. Tiptoe to Topanga (F. Lead) 5.10b T. Tech, F. Haney, Jesse, B. Pinar, T. Pinar
104. Black Pearl 5.10b F. Haney, S. Powers
105. Ho Bag 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
106. No Glove, No Love 5.10b F. Haney, T. Tech
107. La Bella Kachina 5.10b T. Tech, D. Reinich
108. Tony Carbone 5.10b T. Tech, K. Burnham
109. Jen 5.10b T. Tech, Jenn, Billy
110. God Loves Nurses 5.10b T. Tech, G. Armstrong, Billy
111. The Beating Heart 5.10b G. Armstrong
112. How Deep is Ben's Love 5.10b T. Tech, , Blitzo, Cora, John, Graham
113. Marsupial Lust 5.10- T. Tech, D. Reinich, T. Burke
114. Bury the Pickle 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
115. Eat Me Volumne 23 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
116. Devil's Butthole 5.10b T. Tech
117. Stink Finger 5.10b T. Burke, T. Tech
118. Butt Nugget 2000 5.10b T. Tech, T. Wolfen
119. Like it or Lump It 5.10b T. Tech, T. Burke
120. Let's F*#k the Crack Whore 5.10- T. Tech, N. Miller, A. Gordon, S. Olsen
121. Lumberjack 5.10b A. Gordon, J. Star, Trevor, K. Potts
122. Shoeless Joe Jackson 5.10- D. Adler
123. Turkey Lips 5.10b G. Epperson, M. Loehr, John
124. Loaded Diaper 5.10- E. Evans, M. Floyd, G. Armstrong, C. Bransford, L. Thompson
125. Power Shopping 5.10- M. Loehr, D. Reinig
126. Burl Ives 5.10- T. Burke, P. Nay, K. Roseme
127. Octapussy 5.10- C. Miller
128. Leather Community 5.10- B. Stokes, C. Bransford, D. Adler, Dan, Page
129. Huh-huh-huh-huh-huh-huh 5.10- T. Michael
130. Lubricated Goat 5.10b B. Elliot
131. Mo Better Births 5.10- R. Thomson
132. Elvis Impersonators and Traveling Priests 5.10- C. Bransford, N. Miller
133. Marv the Mangler 5.9 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, K. Henderson, Will, M. Lopez
134. Urdu 5. 9 T. Tech, W. Stark
135. Bumpus Hell 5.9 T. Tech, B. Spears, B. Shilliday
136. Eat Beluga 5.9 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, T. Tech
137. Red, White, and Boys T. Tech
138. Guam 5.9 T. Tech, S. Powers, Jade, Locker, K. Henderson, Pooner
139. Big Ass Ellie May 5.9 T. Tech
140. Have a Ball 5.9 T. Tech, Blitzo, Mark Weber, K. Henderson
141. Testicle Festival 5.9 T. Tech, Blitzo M. Weber, K. Henderson
142. May a Dike Grow Out of Your Forehead 5.9 T. Tech, Demetri, B. Shilliday
143. Electric Parade 5.9 T. Tech, Becca
144. Timber Wolf 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke
145. The Liver is Evil 5.9 T. Pinar, T. Tech, Becca
146. Kidney Boy 5.9 T. Pinar
147. Cat , The Other White Meat 5.9 T. Tech, S. Powers
148. Win Dixie 5.9 T. Tech
149. The Little Man in the Boat 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke
150. I Love Animals, They Taste Good 5.9 T. Tech
151. Eva Las Vegas 5.10- T. Tech, E. Fitts
152. Oh Frenchie Wee Wee Gee in Sept. 5.9 T. Tech, G. Armstrong
153. The Iron Chef 5.9 T. Tech, D. Reinig
154. Babaloos 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke, Eileen
155. Ben Gay 5.9 John
156. Sabina 5.9 G. Armstrong
157. Never Shake a Baby 5.9 M. Synek, A. Gordon
158. Rick Rockwell 5.9 Tim
159. Loose Man 5.9 T. Tech
160. Cooter 5.9 T. Tech, M. Synek
161. Copulator 5.9 T. Tech, T. Burke, K. Ogle
162. Bad Cop, No Donut T. Tech, T. Burke, K. Ogle
163. Matt Gay 5.8 + A. Tomaszewski
164. A Trip to the Tip 5.9 C. Bransford, G. Armstorng
165. Ring Stinger 5.9 C. Bransford, D. Adler
166. Loud But Deadly 5.9 T. Burke
167. Blaat 5.9 T. Burke
168. Bee's Swarm 5.9 Dave
169. Montclair 5.9 Dave, C. Bransford, K. Duke
170. Land, you Idiot, Land 5.9 C. Bransford, Dave, K. Duke
171. Hearsay 5.9 D. Reid, C. Bransford
172. Horizon 5.9 D. Reid
173. Cyanide Life 5.9 D. Reid, C. Bransford
174. Bizarre Limbo 5.9 D. Reid, C. Bransford
175. Flaming Doobries 5.9 G. Armstrong
176. Cloth Ears 5.9 R. Powell, I. Katz, J. Jurachek, G. Armstrong, C. Miller, C. Bransford
177. You Are Helga, I am Sven 5.9 D. Wilson, K. Wilson, A. Bartlett, L. Christie, J. Christie
178. Doctor, Doctor, Doctor 5.9 B. Povolny
179. Cling Tenatiously to My Buttocks 5.9 N. Miller, C. Bransford
180. Jake Ass T. Tech, K. Henderson, J. Adams, Will
181. McStain 5.8 T. Pinar, B. Pinar
182. Nic Traverse 5.8 W. Stark , T. Tech
183. Granny Panties 5.8 F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Becca, T. Tech, others
184. Do you Believe in Leprachans? 5.8 F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Becca, T. Tech, others
185. Underware Gnome 5.8 F. Haney, T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Becca, T. Tech, others
186. Screw the Pooch 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar
187. Dig for Fire 5.8 T. Tech, W. Stark, L. Lavoire
188. Monkey Gone to Heaven 5.8 T. Tech, W. Stark, L. Lavoire
189. I Eat Crayons 5.8 T. Tech, S. Powers
190. D. Haney 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
191. Broke Back Burke 5.8 T. Tech, W. Stark
192. Bird Eating Spyder 5.8 K. Burnham, K. Henderson, T. Tech
193. Kentucky Waterfall Corner 5.8 T. Tech,
194. Wonder Valley Crag 5.8 T. Tech, Jade, Blitzo, etc.
195. Liver Brothers 5.8 E. Hawkins, T. Tech, T. Burke
196. Pull on the Flesh 5.8 E. Evans, T. Tech, T. Burke, Jack
197. Eddy 5.8 T. Tech, F. Haney, Friend
198. Colon Bowell 5.8 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Zack, T. Tech, Locker, Jacob
199. Condom Leaves a Rice 5.8 T. Pinar, T. Tech, Jacob, Locker, B. Pinar, Zack
200. Andrea Yates 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar
201. Everyone But Larry 5.8 T. Tech, L. Lavoire, G. Lake, D. Reinich
202. Henry Moore 5.8 T. Tech, K. Henderson
203. Early Retirement 5.8 S. Powers, T. Pinar, T. Tech, B. Shilliday, L. Lavoire, K. Bohl, M. Heinz, T. Burke, B. Pinar
204. Burkulese 5.8 T. Burke, T. Tech, B. Shilliday, B. Pinar, T. Pinar, B. Shilliday, L. Lovoire, M. Heinz
205. Ben Scabby Face 5.8 T. Burke
206. Yum Yum 5.8 T. Tech
207. Air Supply 5.7 Ryan, Friend, T. Tech
208. Boom Boom 5.8 T. Tech, M. Morely
209. Monkey Meat 5.8 S. Powers, B. Povolny
210. Safe Zone Hand Crack 5.8 T. Tech, T. Burke, G. Hiskes, R. Fonda
211. Miss (Brett's Teacher) 5.8 T. Tech, T. Pinar
212. Jelly on Springs 5.8 T. Tech
213. Mr. Simpkinton 5.8 T. Tech, G. Armstrong, K. Burnham, Simone
214. Kill them all, and let God Sort them out 5.8 T. Tech, C. Gorsky, K. Burnham, T. Burke
215. Mini Voyage 5.8 G. Armstrong, K. Burnham
216. El Chivo 5.8 S. Powers, G. Hiskes, D. Reinig
217. Bad Lieutennet 5.8 G. Armstrong, Charles, J. Pereya
218. Teflon Ron 5.8 T. Tech, John , Blitzo, Graham, Cora
219. Darva 5.8 T. Tech
220. Unnamed (left of Port. Pepper Pot) 5.8 T. Tech, M. Senyk, Eileen
221. Reach Around Cop 5.8 T. Burke, T. Tech, K. Ogle
222. Bumpy 5.8 A. Gordon, M. Ross
223. Stephanie Route (Queen Mtn.) 5.8 Stephanie, Jim, Tom, I. Hayes
224. Chicken Poop 5.8 S. Lennox
225. John's Giggley Bum Cheeks 5.8 Frazier, J. Wilson, C. Bransford, K. Lund
226. Rings Around Your Danis 5.8 C. Bransford, D. Adler
227. Waterbabies 5.8 S. Alford, Smith, B. Allen
228. Stairway to Kevin 5.8 R. Vogel, K. Powell, , J. Angione, C. Bransford
229. Prozac Crack 5.8 C. Bransford, K. Powell
230. Keith's 10,000 Girlfriends 5.8 Marco, K. Duke, Keith, C. Bransford
231. Chocolate Covered Raisens 5.8 T. Michael
232. Chicken Pot Pie 5.8 T. Michael
234. Glazed Ham 5.8 T. Michael
235. Pink Dolphin 5.8 J. Mireles, Karen, May, Kim, Brian
236. Man and the Woman 5.8 T. Michael
237. Woman and the Man 5.8 T. Michael
238. Black Tounge 5.8 T. Michael
239. 10 Hits of Window Pane 5.7 T. Tech, Blitzo, Will
240. B. O. # 37 5.7 T. Tech, Blitzo, Will
241. Phil Leggett 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
242. I'm Not a Doctor, But I'll Take a Look 5.7 T. Tech, W. Stark
243. Welfare Mothers, Drugs, and Speed 5.7 T. Tech
244. Chicks for Chicken T. Tech
245. Fubar 5.7 B. Pinar, James
246. Dinky 5.7 Blitzo, Chrystal , Tech, T. Burke, Justin
247. Sweeny 5.7 F. Haney
248. Tie Your Mother Down 5.7 T. Tech, D. Evans
249. Lukachukai 5.7 T. Tech, K. Henderson, T. Burke
250. Swing Low 5.7 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, F. Haney
251. Cactus Challenge 5.7 Jesse, T. Tech, B. Pinar, T. Pinar
252. Jesse's Erection Manuel 5.7 F. Haney
253. Safe Zone Crack 5.6 T. Tech, R. Fonda, G. Hiskes, etc.
254. Peta OW (Let's Eat Meat) 5.7 T. Tech
255. Mink 5.7 T. Tech
256. Maids of Honor 5.7 T. Tech, T. Burke, C. Gorsky
257. Stinksteak 5.7 K. Burnham, T. Tech
258. Chicken Run 5.7 G. Armstrong, S. Olsen , Karoosh, Friend
259. Buttress Buttress, Golly 5.7 G. Armstrong, G. Epperson
260. Love Bubbles 5.7 T. Tech, Cora, Blitzo
261. The Wife Beater 5.7 T. Tech, P. Blanchard
262. Return of Bumpy 5.7 T. Tech, T. Burke
263. Son of Bumpy 5.7 T. Tech, T. Burke
264. Swedish Cleaning Lady 5.7 Daniel, Tobias, S. Olsen, A. Gordon, K. Miller, L. Collela, S. Herndon, Matt, T. Tech
265. Coca Cola (Queen Mt.) 5.7 A. Gordon, Jim, Stephanie, I. Hayes
266. Rusty Thinking 5.7 C. Bransford
267. Money Penny 5.7 C. Bransford, K. Lund
268. Keith's Ripped Back 5.7 Marco, Friend, Keith, K. Duke, S. Reid, C. Bransford,
269. Andre the Giant 5.6 Bob Spears, T. Tech
270. Ah Goo 5.6 T. Tech
271. Gyno Groove T. Tech, B. Povolny
272. Whores of Babylon 5.6 T. Burke, C. Gorsky, T. Tech
273. We aim to please, So Please Aim 5.6 T. Tech
274. Unaboober 5.6 A. Bartlett, C. Bransford, C. Gerberdine
275. Gofer a Pokin' C. Bransford, D. Evans. K. Lund, friend
276. Jamie Tolerates Derreck 5.6 D. Reinig, Jamie, D. Adler
277. Onnatop 5.6 C. Bransford, K. Lund
278. Bee Bypass 5.6 C. Bransford
279. Bee War 5.6 C. Bransford, Dave, K. Duke
280. Apply Directly to the Forehead 5.5 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
281. STFU n00b 5.5 T. Tech, Blitzo, Locker
282. Chicks with Attitudes 5.5 T. Tech
283. Chicks with Dicks 5.5 T. Tech
284. God, Guns and Guts 5.5 T. Tech
285. Pillow Biter 5.5 F. S.
286. Bevis 5.5 T. Michael
287. Praying Monkey 5.5 F. S.
288. Happy Birthday Rrrrrennnnnn 5.5 N. Miller, N. Miller, C. Bransford
289. Southern Cornbread 5.8 W. Stark
290. Fried Okra 5.8 W. Stark
291. Serbian Stairway 5.10- Sonia, T. Murphy
292. I Love My Marine 5.6 T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Cat. R. Ashbachar, Aaron
293. Sokolove 5.5 R. Ashbachar
294. A Dot of Culture 5.6 T. Pinar, G. Armstrong
295. Respect My Peeps 5.7 Will, T. Tech, J. Adams, Beth
296. Snottrockets 5.7 T. Pinar
297. Demon Decons 5.7 C. Gorsky, L. Lavoire, Laura, B. Christle
298. Hot-n-Ready 5.7 G. Epperson, Michelle, R. Ashbachar, K. Daniels
299. Cohn Prop 5.8 5.8 T. Tech
300. Licking the Toad 5.8 T. Tech
301. Nicole Kidman 5.8 R. Thompson, T. Tech
302. My Naughty Little Donkey 5.8 Will, K. Burnham
303. Weiner Inspector 5.7 Will, K. Burnham
304. Man Boobs 5.9 T. Tech, W. Stark, Blitzo
305. Phelp's Chevrolet 5.9 Daniel, Cat. T. Pinar, R. Ashbachar, Aaron, B. Pinar
306. Doke 5.9 T. Pinar
307. An Erection Lasting Longer Than 4 Hours 5.9 T. Tech
308. Bongo Johnny T. Pinar, B. Pinar
309. 5.10b Cohn Prop. 5.10b T. Tech, R. Fonda
310. I Saw Daddy Kissing Santa 5.10- K. Burnham, T. Pinar, Eric, B. Pinar, Matthew
311. The Fetus 5.10- T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, T. Pinar
312. Puss Boy 5.10b T. Pinar, B. Pinar, Biologist
313. Cherry Glazer 5.10- T. Tech, B. Pinar, R. Ashbachar, T. Pinar
314. A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Aaron
315. Michael Paul Glazer 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, T. Pinar, B. Pinar
316. Chubs 5.7 T. Tech, W. Stark, Blitzo
317. Tart and Tiny 5.7 T. Tech, W. Stark, Blitzo
318. Keeping the Dragon at Bay 5.10- T. Tech, T. Pinar, G. Epperson, B. Pinar
319. Licking Wood T. Tech, Wendell
320. Uncle Len's Pot Farm 5.10 T. Tech, Mario Sherelli, V. Shrelli
321. Baconator 5.10- T. Tech
322. Cockpit T. Tech, G. Epperson, R. Ashbachar
323. Woody's Whirlpool Bath 5.10- T. Tech, W. Stark, B. Pinar, T. Pinar
324. Meth Mart 5.10- B. Pinar, R. Ashbachar
325. Rim Marcinkus 5.10- T. Tech, Will, Beth
326. I Smell Bacon 5.10- M. Lopez, R. Thompson, Chris, Amelia, Blitzo, T. Pinar
327. Mortal Thoughts 5.10c W. Stark, Wendall, K. Bohl, Friend
328. Tart and Tiny (T.R) 5.10d T. Tech
329. I Love My Marine (Direct) 5.10+ T. Tech
330. The Belt Sander 5.10c T. Tech
331. Funky President 5.10c Will, T. Tech, Beth
332. Dick Cheny 5.10c T. Pinar, Chris, M. Lopez
333. Howling Monkey 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
334. Don't Eat the Worm 5.8 Nic, R. Ashbachar, T. Tech, Jared, Ben
335. Little Evil 5.8 R. Ashbacher
336. Rampire (left) 5.8 T. Tech, K. Burnham, R. Ashbachar, B. Shilliday
337. Rampire (right) 5.8 T. Tech, K. Burnham, R. Ashbachar, B. Shilliday
338. Rumpire 5.8 T. Tech, K. Burnham,
339. Buttmilk 5.9 T. Tech, K. Burnham, R. Ashbachar, B. Shilliday
340. Leading with the Dimple 5.9 S. Papp
341. Handful of Dickie 5.9 S. Papp
342. Col. Flagg 5.9 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
343. Splittail 5.9 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, Nic, Jarred, Ben,
344. Taller Than Texas 5.9 T. Tech, Nic, Jarred, R. Ashbachar
345. Fur 5.10- Fur T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
346. The Floater 5.10- T. Tech, R. Ashbachar
347. Gizm Prizm 5.9 T. Tech, Dave
348. That's What She Said ( Safe Zone) 5.8 T. Tech, T. Manefesto, T. Pinar, R. Ashbachar, Dave, S. Papp
349. Goop Gobbler 5.8 Dave, T. Pinar, S. Papp, R. Ashbachar, T. Teck
350. Bort 5.10- Blitzo, T. Tech, Karoosh, Locker, R. Ashbachar
351. Slumdog 5.7 T. Tech, R. Ashbachar, D. Cox, Justin
352. I'll Sleep When I'm Dead 5.7 T. Tech
353. My Penis Floats 5.11- T. Tech, E. Wolfe, Skip, R. Fonda
354. The Greedy Goat 5.10+ Dwain, T. Tech
354. Karen Carpender Corner 5.7 K. Duke
355. Gateraid in my Navel 5.10- K. Duke, Allison
356. Inspect Her Gadget 5.8 R. Sims, B. Shilliday, Daphanie, T. Tech, Bruce
357. Good Will Humping 5.9+ T. Tech, R. Fonda, B. Shilliday, Daphanie, D. Cox
358. Beer is Good 5.8 T. Tech,
359. Pheromone 5.9 T. Tech, Kerry, S. Brown, Nate, James, R. Ashbachar
360. The Wild Goose 5.10b T. Tech
361. Arkansass 5.10c T. Tech, Kerry, S. Brown
362. Dirtineye 5.9 R. Ashbachar, Peter, Blitzo, B. Shilliday, T. Tech
363. Miss Wiener Tot 5.10+ G. Epperson, Beth
364. Stark Naked 5.8 R. Ashbachar
365. 5 Barmaids in my Pocket 5.10b/c F. Bentwood, T. Tech, M. Syneck, G. Epperson














Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 26, 2009 - 04:18pm PT
Gee!


F.A. "Re-Todd Gordumb".



F.A. "I Smell Bacon".




"Asain Fever".


Photos by Blitzo.


Nicole Kidman.


Photo not by Blitzo.


"Bort".


Photo by Blitzo.


"I Dress Myself".



F.A. "Crimpergirl"



"Woody's Whirlpool Bath"



"Eddy".



F.A. "Sharon Stone".


Photo by Blitzo.


Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 26, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
How many ways can you spell"Senyk"?
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 26, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
F.A. "Knight of the Iron Sausage".



Not sure. Todd??????




F.A. "Ten Hits of Window Pane"




F.A, "Blow The Scro".




"Mc Stain".





F.A. "Krystal Ball".



F.A. "Testicle Festival".



F.A. "Wet Behind, Dry Wallet".



F.A. "Blitzo Crack".



"Dimpled Chad".


Photos by Blitzo.
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Jun 26, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
Yeah, Todd
My boy BillO was active in that bit of stone. Him and Rob put up a bunch of stuff there in the 90ís.



Bruce.
Thom

Trad climber
South Orange County, CA
Jun 26, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
Hey Todd,

Sent you a PM. Check your email ya lazy bum!

Cheers,
Thom
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2009 - 01:53am PT
We had our computor worked on about 6 months ago....and my email disappeared;.....I haven't been able to access it since......what am I missing?......(I need to get my email back and running;...someone else set it up for me, and I don't have the password or any other info I need to revive it......oops.....)....I'm a computor dummy......try andreatoddgordon@gmail.com Thanks, Tom
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