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Al D
Sport climber
NYC NY
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Jan 24, 2015 - 05:31pm PT
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So I have some great history and memories of the cybernetic wall.
It is on Mohonk property, so there are no trespassing issues at all.
As far as anyone knows, Jim Munson did "find" it and he named it. We are talking about late 70's or early 80's.
He told myself, Scott Franklin and Jordan Mills about the route. A few other folks knew about it as well. Jim "bwana" Damon and Felix Mundugano had tried it a little bit. We started to work on the route in full yoyo style in probably 1984 or 85 when we where climbing only 5.11 or so. The 1st 15 feet is probably V7 or V8 and gave us quite a time, but we all eventually started to wire the bottom.
The middle section is probably 5.11 and has never given anyone an issue.
Not sure when, but we definitely started "dogging" on TR the crux at 2/3rd height, and it stopped us probably for a year or 2. We tried everything, and then eventually Scotty unlocked the sequence, and I was belaying him when he TR'ed the route. We had no idea how hard the route was, but we knew it was harder then any other of the 13's we started to do in the gunks ( survival, Clairvoyance, etc). Scott F redpointed the route, a short time after. All gear went in on the lead, but we left it there after it was in, for all attempts after. Actually the pro on that route is very basic, and that isnt really an issue ay all.
Fast forward to 1988, and Jerry Moffatt came to town, with his sights set on repeating it. I has somewhat given up on the route at that point, but hanging with Jerry was very motivating to me, and I started to work it again as well. Jerry Redpointed the route after 2 days of work. I TR'ed it about a week later and then RP'ed it soon after as well.
I'm not totally clear on the love muscle variation to the left, but in my Mind Scott F did the FA of that as well. No gimme as it checked in at a solid 13A.
22 years later and Brian Kim sends the route. Many, many strong climbers in between had attempted the route, and all told me it was one of the stoutest 13d's they had ever been on. These were all very accomplished 5.14 climbers.
The crux of that route is still 1 of the stoutest boulder problems I have ever done, and I have done a lot of bouldering in my years. It definitely makes the bottom BP seem like a piece of cake.
Great looking route-it begs anyone who looks up at it to climb it. Hard for any video or picture to really capture the steepness and beauty of the climb.
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Jan 25, 2015 - 12:35am PT
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A post from Al Diamond. Very cool. I don't post enough here to extend a proper welcome to a newcomer, but welcome Al. Your presence here will only enrich the legend of Supertopo.
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