Ground-up ascent of Gunks' Cybernetic Wall

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Broken

climber
Texas
Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
http://climbingnarc.com/2009/05/climbing-video-brian-kim-ground-up-on-cybernetic-513d

Anyone here know what style of ascent Franklin/Moffat/Diamond employed?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 8, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
Cool video.
I don't know the answer on the styles of previous ascents.

First ground up ascent of the climb in 20+ years, apparently.
According to
http://status.accessfund.org/
under New York / Gunks / More :
Gunks - Bonticou/Cybernetic Wall : Closed.

Did this just change? Maybe it is part of the explanation for the long time between such ascents.

[Edit: see reply below - Cybernetic Wall is not closed. The A.I. Wall with Running Man is the crag which is closed.]
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
May 8, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
great footage, looks like a great climb.





WTF?!! is with the song? now i'm pissed and i don't know why.
dustonian

climber
May 9, 2009 - 02:15am PT
Huh, is that thing "open"?? Or at least chill enough to climb? Last I heard, people we're getting escorted off the property at gunpoint and there was something about surveillance cams set up around the crag..... too bad, all the cool little crags on private property... that's the problem with the Gunks!!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 9, 2009 - 09:05am PT
You would think they would have called it a headpoint if they tred it to deaTH first.
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
May 9, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
the video shows him whipping on gear...obviously thats not conclusive proof, but it would suggest (to me) that it wasn't rehearsed on TR.
Euroford

Trad climber
chicago
May 9, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
coolness.


HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 9, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
It wasn't a headpoint, the video seems to imply he lowered and pulled the rope each time.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 10, 2009 - 09:51am PT
Video only shows you what you see. Could hAVE TR it for years before getting the bug to lead it. Not that there is anything wrong with thaT.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 11, 2009 - 07:06am PT
Good, That is fun looking climb. wasen't dissing him. Just pointing out that Video can be edited to show anything you want it to.
meclimber

Trad climber
Dover, NH
May 11, 2009 - 08:45am PT
Tradman, I didn't know that liquid sky was yours. Cool
-meclimber
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
May 11, 2009 - 09:04am PT
Thanks for the link.

Brian is STRONG, and I am psyched to see him sending this.
bassforyourface

climber
May 11, 2009 - 10:38am PT
I just wanted to make this perfectly clear. Cybernetic Walls is not closed. The access fund received the wrong info. The wall they meant is the A.I. wall with Running Man on it. Brian sent Cybernetic Wall ground up without any TR practice. He spent 1.5 days on it. He pulled the rope on every fall and lowered off the top and pulled the pieces prior to send. I did the best i could with the video footage I had. There will be a full write up on it soon. Thank you http://bassforyourface.com
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
May 11, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
That's a cool area with a good winter climbing area up and left. Good 5.10 around the corner to the right. I almost bought property down below that section of cliff ten years ago; I bought somewhere else in the vicinity of the Trapps.

That's a solid ascent. To get below that wall and look up hyperextends my neck. I've always looked at that seam as a good copperhead pitch :)



rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
May 11, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
"Brian sent Cybernetic Wall ground up without any TR practice. He spent 1.5 days on it. He pulled the rope on every fall and lowered off the top and pulled the pieces prior to send.

At this level of difficulty, it would be impossible to demand more "purity" than that. Congratulations to Brian.
donald perry

Trad climber
kearny, NJ
Sep 12, 2011 - 03:10pm PT
If it is private then he should take down the video, it does not help, especially when he makes it look dangerous.
donald perry

Trad climber
kearny, NJ
Nov 27, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
It this the same Todd Ritter who quit climbing and took up dirt bike?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 13, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
BUMP FOR TO STIR IT UP BUMP BUMP
SO tonight on post em up throw backs I hear that renaming is a foot??
what the PHOOK
What else has a new name and is there a new guidebook withthe 'new' names of long standing (everything under .13D is classic and was set in stone )Climbs??
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 13, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
OKAY THEN THIS IS A STORY THAT NEEDS TO BE TOLD.

THE ROUTE CYBERNETIC WALL WAS AIDED WITHOUT PINS OR A HAMMER BY KEITH UHL>

STANLEY WOULD NOT GIVE HIM A BELAY. (think he took keith's hammer away?)

AS HE KNEW THAT MANY WOULD NOT APPROVE OF A FREE ROUTE BEING AIDED.

OUT RIGHT VIOLATION OF THE RULES .

KEITH WAS CAREFUL AND SENT IT ON HOOKS HE SWORE HE DID NO DAMAGE.

BUT STILL

THIS ALL HAPPENED 5 YEARS(?) AFTER THE FA.

SO THAT IS WHAT THE TALENTED B.KIM SENT.

WOW I HAVE MISSED ALOT..... TALK ABOUT LATE TO A PARTY ....
Oldfattradguy2

Trad climber
Here and there
Nov 13, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
The story as I remember.....

Note the comments in the video said the left version was love muscle. Not true, lm was Scottie's rename of Cybernetic, I belive lanman might of done the 1st of the left version, that's what he said when he sent it, I belayed him on it. We knew it as. Cybernetic left. Dave felt it was a consolation prize after not getting cybernetic, I held a lot of whippers. Munson should get some credit for finding, envisioning and naming it.

The land behind triple right was owned by a pair of brothers. One was one of the original LSD testers for the gov. The other blew up his ex wife's husbands pickup truck, when the guy came to the door, he shot him. A few days later he was found by the cops, opened fire and was killed. I was the law at minnewaska at the time and was part of the search for the guys red vw rabbit, the troopers thought it might be rigged to blow up.

The area was part of my masters degree thesis.

Todd
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