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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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The scene of the crime; an unsuspecting, average, totally normal blue sky day on The Red Garden Wall in Eldorado Canyon.
RUPER, FA by Layton Kor, Bob Culp & Ed Risley 1961:
Plus some historical background connected to the foolish pursuit of the day: RUPER
From Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America, by Pat Ament:
From CLIMB !
Royal Robbins leading Ruper:
The part what gets all slippery and pumpy:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 03:04pm PT
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So then, on to the usual suspects
Three old coots : that would be Larry Hamilton (Chiloe), Mike Munger, & Tarbuster.
How did we get to be old coots?
Well, we started out young
.
Larry and Mike, pre-coot, young buck days,
Jackson-Johnson route on Hallett, summer 1971:
And in modern times, full old coot mode, yesterday to be exact:
Tarbuster, coot number three, sporting his first hat, in early training for the inevitable Ruper:
Callie (Crimpie to yous guys), sometime before tape and chalk:
How Tarbuster and Crimpie look today
well, yesterday:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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Larry & Tarboy arrive, prematurely ready for happy hour :
But Mike says well first need to deploy WIDE gear :
Caught in the act!
(or just prior to
)
Nowhere to go but up.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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Please note, Ruper is a horrific 5.8 : known to spit out 5.10 leaders on reglar' basis.
We bad, we bad
.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Hell yeah! A friday night show starting in the afternoon!
lemme get the popcorn...anyone need a beer while I'm up?
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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There is definitely something non-cootish about that crew...
Keep it coming!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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You haf clafted zee tension an zee bildup pairfectly.
I wait, I wait.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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fine lookin' crew, bring it!
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climbhigh
Trad climber
western slope Co.
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Beer me!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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can't wait for more...
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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More Please!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Awwwww
Where's da pix??????
And Crimpie, hows abouts the toonz??????
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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and now... the rest of the story...
Love that Ruper. Great climbing!
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KlimbIn
climber
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Rock Teaser!
(this is gonna be good).
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Hey, I was there, and I can't wait to see how this all turns out!
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MUR
climber
A little to the left of right
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Awesome, Full Sail Amber chillin' in the fridge, and a tasty Tarbuster tale...life is good.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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There's beer at the end of this thread.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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I hope so! I don't see any on the harnesses with the patented Tarbuster carrying method...
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Barcus
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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Crack!..Pffftssssss....gulp..gulp..gulp.....Stoked!
I just love it when you guy's take us on a lil trip!
Thanks,
Marcus
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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The kids, ...I, I mean old guys 'n Crimpie,
Waddling across the iconic bridge over South Boulder Creek toward Red Garden Wall:
Mr. Munger and Crimpie got the head start,
Having soloed up the fourth class to a point where Mike started doing rope tricks:
(Chiloe and I were bringing up the rear, climbing the fourth class in some sort of bizarre fully roped up mountaineering style below)
At some point the climbing had to begin,
And so it did, on the standard first pitch:
If you had Crimpie on the end of your line, you'd be smiling too !
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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Mike Munger heading in to the choice phat crack of Ruper proper:
Note that giveaway old coot clue on this big picture here.
Yes folks, that's a bona fide Hexentric on the man's rack:
By now you've figured out, we did this two parties of two ...
Meanwhile Chiloe heading up the first pitch on his lead:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Pitched two, New Hampshire style:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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Just to keep you all up to date,
Well-informed and well apprised of the situation,
Here's the details on the local location:
The pictures up to this point take as to the belay atop page 2,
After completing the right facing corner,
Visible near the bottom of the topo, where it says: .8 & 5"
From Rossiter's Boulder Climbs South
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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NICE!!!
Looks cool so far, especially relaxing from the couch with a beer in my hand!
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MUR
climber
A little to the left of right
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Crap, hurry up! I'm almost outta beers!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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I got you covered on beers
A quality tale like this takes time
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Nice! More Cowbell!
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MUR
climber
A little to the left of right
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Phew, okay back. Lee's has Full sail for 4.99. Good thing it's only 1/2 a block away. Thanks TK I might make it now. I was worried...srsly.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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The birds eye view from atop pitch two,
Out across South Boulder Creek to Peanuts wall:
Down out across Red Garden Wall into the Bastille:
Looking straight down into South Boulder Creek:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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MUR was just in time!
great views!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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Mike heads off of Crimpie's belay in to pitch three:
And then, Chiloe does the same on my rope:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 08:03pm PT
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Here it is folks !
The MONEY shot: the first one with KOR ...
Then followed up with our very own CHILOE
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Nice, Tarbaby, that 's GOLD!!!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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That is soooooooooooooo, cool! Can I go with on the next ELDO thing?
Bruce.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
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Yes You CAN !!!
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Olihphant
climber
Somewhere over the rainbow
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Where is Paul Harvey when you need the rest of the story?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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Why, it's just over the rainbow waiting to be loaded onto my hard drive...
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Huge tease......more please, looks like a fun day was had....
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Mimi
climber
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OMG! Mike Munger! What a great guy. Glad to see he's doing well.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Our narrator has been modestly omitting all the parts of the story starring himself. I see
my job should be to fill those in, time to time.
Frinstance the approach, that could be a story in itself. Mike knew this quick & easy 3rd
class way to reach the top of the Lower Ramp without climbing the Death Slabs. So he and
Crimpergirl soloed up that way. For some reason still not clear to me, Tarbuster and I
thought it would be an even better idea to climb a lead of rarely-traveled, often-loose 5.7
"alpine" terrain to reach the same place. That's how come Mike & Crimpie jumped out to
a two-pitch head start right away.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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And then there's the hat. While groveling in the depths of the "notorious Ruper crack"
to place gear, I kept knocking my sunglasses off just trying to turn my head. He's gonna
have trouble with that hat! I thought for sure. But I was wrong, somehow Tarbuster
finessed the crack, hat and all.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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I had forgotten how pretty the rock is - thanks for the great shots as a reminder - gotta get back there...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Looking back across that humorous Ruper traverse.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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No kidding, that rock is beautiful. The suspense is killing me, though. Will they make the top?
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Mimi
climber
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'But I was wrong, somehow Tarbuster finessed the crack, hat and all.'
Was there really any doubt? I mean really.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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And to think it's all right in the back yard....still fun to see the adventure though......
Oh Alice in Bucketland......Oh.....the fun....
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Ho man, you showed those prancers...
Tom K, could could you grab me one of those Bear Whiz Beers in the fridge, while you're up?
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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. . . and will they ever let the girl lead???
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:12am PT
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She is in her chariot, holding ropes on the three horses...
Or being lifted upward by the old coots on their strings as it were, like brightly colored helium balloons.
Nevertheless, per usual they are ridden hard and put away wet.
An utterly terrified Tarbuster emerges from the airy traverse:
(all buttered up on codeine, post dental surgery, no leading for me, or operating heavy machinery for that matter...)
From the upper meadow, or upper ramp, or whatever it's called...
We point to the way through Alice in Bucket Land: first I'm quite sure it goes up over and left.
Then no, up over and right: oops may be straight up the middle.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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Anyway, that old Mike, he don't need no stinking badge:
So over the big roof he goes, plus another one or two:
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Good gawd! don't you people wear helmets?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:21am PT
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My hat is OSHA approved.
(Fer punchin' dowgies...)
Not so sure about the rest...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:25am PT
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Anyhow's, while them two kids was grapplin' Alice's Buckets,
We was continuin' on up the Ruper, all proper like...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:37am PT
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Then I looked down and up she came,
Ponytail, bobbing up over that roof down below:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:38am PT
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Crimpster, striding up through Bucket Land:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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Next thing I know,
I'm yanking out those anchors, ripping along diagonal or sideways, but more or less UP...
Flyin' along another pitch of pinches, mank pitons & no foothold style moves, out near the top of that puppy:
Then I got the glory lead for the Ruper top out pitch,
Looked down upon Larry and he said something like: "Man I'm Cooked"
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Now THAT is Gold.....Thanks be to all involved.
Yowza squared.
Twice! WooHoo! (coots! he says)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 01:57am PT
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A collaborative effort picture wise, cameras fluttering from all four of us.
Chiloe's, Crimpie's, and my shots featured here...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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all buttered up on codeine, post dental surgery, no leading for me, or operating heavy machinery
for that matter...
As he cleaned a large cam I had placed just to get it off my rack, Tarbuster looked up with a
big grin and said, "I'm operating heavy machinery!"
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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You got to go with the times, Robin Smith wrote that.
Not only did we go with more link cams, probably, than Layton Kor needed pitons ... we also went
with four cameras.
Mike doesn't post here but he took some of the best shots, adding yet another perspective on
our circus. I hope he won't mind if I share a few of them.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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More by Mike Munger:
Finishing off the traverse:
On the upper wall, Mike & Crimpie on Alice in Bucketland, and Tarbuster and I on upper
Ruper, were climbing parallel up vertical rock. This made for some fine angles, although
we were mostly hanging on with both hands instead of shooting like mad as we should have.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Looked down upon Larry and he said something like: "Man I'm Cooked"
I was, too. It felt past beer time, but here we were still a thousand feet up.
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Olihphant
climber
Somewhere over the rainbow
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What a grand romp. Not cutting edge or news but an adventure all the same.
Some really nice shots all around. Tarbuster bustin' a move with a Stetson groove.
Crimpergirl crimpin' up the steep in crimpstyle.
Mike being the stalwart sharp end coot while snapping some stellar pics.
And Spartacus lookin' so dandy and climbin' so fine.
You cats should start a retro rock band named Crimpie and the Coots.
Rock on!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 11:29am PT
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As we all reached the summit, it was naturally time to go down.
So with a minimum of muss and fuss, that's just what we did ...
In no small way motivated by cocktails.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mmmm...cocktails!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Cocktails, she cried!!!!!!
butno'toonzoncocktailnapkins????????
Yehaw!!!!!11111
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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Wandering back along below Red Garden Wall,
Taking a look back up toward the three-tiered scene of the crime:
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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badass and beautious all at once!!!
that's a great day out.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Looks like you all had fun.
Nice!
Zander
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Do I remember correctly that one of Pat's guidebooks has a photo of Don Whillans on Ruper's
6th-pitch traverse?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
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Don Whillans on Ruper?
Now there's a picture of an old coot worthy of digging up!
I don't have it in my copy of High Over Boulder.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Roy. . .Chiloe
You guys mean this one???????
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
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Good one Steve!
That's a keeper.
Two brainiacs & one great big rock:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 06:05pm PT
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Finally, FINALLY...
We made it to a proper happy hour:
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Super fun day with all of you. I hope Chiloe gets back this way very soon so we can do it again. :)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 10, 2009 - 12:05am PT
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Thanks to SteveW for posting this classic shot, taken by Royal Robbins, showing Pat Ament
and Don Whillans on the 6th pitch of Ruper (from High Over Boulder):
Tarbuster, on about the same footholds:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 10, 2009 - 12:09am PT
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But turning over another facet of the "old" theme ...
The day after Ruper I took my Dad, who introduced me to the mountains long ago, for a
hike to celebrate his 84th birthday.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 10, 2009 - 11:42am PT
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Happy 84th Pop!
Super TR Roy! That is fun and you're havin' it. Thanks for sharing the good time.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 10, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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Thanks for taking us along, Callie and Coots!
Never done Alice, but by the looks of it, it must be done and soon.
Rick
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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May 10, 2009 - 04:46pm PT
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Alice was indeed really fun! Happy to have every bit of wing span I did on an early lower move. We did some right variation and it was one fun move after another. Sign me up if you are looking for a partner!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 10, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
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I still remember Ruper as one of the funnest routes I've done in Eldo. Did it on a blind date with a guy (Eric Boltz) off of wreck.climbing and we had a really great time on it.
We started out on some 5.9 finger crack variation?
Everybody must shoot from that angle... :-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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Exactly as you said, except we just kept going:
Larry didn't belay at the apex (original belay before the traverse) on the crap peg, instead continuing to the vert crack after the traverse.
The last time I was at that anchor, sometime in the 90s with Rob (guy that died on K2), things weren't quite so blown out at that stance...
We had just climbed The Serpent, another highly recommended quite excellent route.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 10, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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Yeah, my belay selection on the upper wall was all improvised, I couldn't recall any beta. I set
the first belay (end of P4) on a flake stance, not comfy but it had a great anchor. On P5 I climbed
up to the rotten band just before the traverse, didn't like anything I saw there so I continued on
through the traverse and set a stance belay immediately afterwards. If you compare my traverse
pic at the top of this page with Steelmonkey's last pic, you can see that I belayed about 10 feet
sooner than he did (I didn't have much gear left, but managed to get in enough there).
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 10, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
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Great post! But Tarbuster, you are not an old coot until you're on Medicare.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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May 10, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
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nice
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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May 10, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
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Man I forgot how pretty and interesting the rock is there.
I hope to get out that way in the fall to climb, it's been at least 12 years.
Thanks for the share, the photos were great and the pigeon shot was lovely.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
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May 11, 2009 - 01:24am PT
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This kind of quality stuff keeps me coming back. I like the new style of slowly meting out the story... puts a bit of suspense and anticipation into it.
Thanks!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 11, 2009 - 07:45am PT
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Thanks for the share, the photos were great and the pigeon shot was lovely.
Credit to our birdloving Callie for the pigeons. I liked those photos too, and realized
that in all my years climbing Eldo, I never thought to photograph a pigeon.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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May 11, 2009 - 10:29am PT
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The pigeon (aka Rock Dove) was adorable! He kept landing as close to me as the photo indicates. Looked me up and down. Checked out the canyon. Took a night circular flight. Returned next to me. Repeat.
So beautiful!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 11, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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A most excellent TR. Nice buildup, Tar. You're raising the bar on the TR standards. If I didn't already live here, I would want to move here.
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Pewf
climber
nederland
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May 11, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
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I commented to Roy on the pigeon shot too; he mentioned you took it, Crimpie. It's really lovely! Usually when I think of them, it's a memory of getting the bejesus scared out of me when a pair exploded out of the crack I'd just stuck my hand in while soloing (back when I was young and a bit too brave). They sounded more like a pair of very angry rhinos than a couple of innocent little birds.
Looking forward to seeing them in a different light when I'm able to get back out climbing!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 11, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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Great TR...Ruper takes me back...did it about 45 years ago. Found the Ruper Crack to be utterly desperate. After we got down, we found out that a week earlier, a climber had gotten their knee jammed in the crack and couldn't extract it. Out came the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group to save the day. By the time they got there, the climber's knee was swelling and no amount of hauling up or down could get him out, so they did what anyone would do under the circumstances---poured a few cans of motor oil down the crack to aid in the removal process, a very slick solution which worked like a charm.
We get there a week later and the motor oil coating is no longer obvious, at least not to us, but damn that crack was slippery.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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May 11, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
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it is a nice tr-- one of the routes i read about as a n00b (over and over) while listening to the rain drip off the tent in yet another whiteout in the cascades.
i've never so much as touched the thing, but it's one of the lines that got me to get the hell out of the pnw and into warmer territory. the period scans are a nice touch.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 11, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
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rgold, I was in Eldo at the time of that stuck-knee rescue on the Ruper crack. My recollection
is fuzzy but I think it was Billy Westbay who told the story of pouring motor oil on the victim's
knee, after other measures like cutting off his pants leg had failed. It made a humorous story
afterwards, though of course it must have been miserable for the poor climber involved.
RMRG often relied on local climbers in those days to help out with technical rescues, particularly
when they required climbing up instead of coming down from above. I'm sure that Mike Munger,
another character in our Ruper TR, well recalls a certain rainy night when he and I got called up
to the Rincon Wall.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 11, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
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A couple more visuals, Alice seen from Ruper:
and Ruper seen from Alice:
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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May 11, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Amazing TR/post, what an amazing looking place.
Never climbed there, but drove up the canyon 2 years ago on the way back from the Wind Rivers and was in awe!
Must get back there, thanks for all the great photos!!!!!
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crankenstein
Trad climber
Louisville, CO
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May 12, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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Hooray for the old coot's (and Crimpy)! Ruper is always a most pleasant and colorful journey up the Red Garden Wall. Thanks for posting all the photos. It brings it all back to the short term memory banks!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 13, 2009 - 09:25am PT
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Discovered this in the Wayback Machine (unscanned old slides) ... a distant shot of
someone climbing the Ruper crack in 1970. He had linked P1 with P2, the crack itself.
P3, the Ruper traverse pictured in Kor/Chiloe photos upthread, goes right around
the exposed, left-facing corner visible just right of center at the top in this photo.
In 1970 when I took this photo, I hadn't yet climbed Ruper myself. Still just a dream.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2009 - 10:10am PT
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Chiloe climbing in Eldo, Rosy Crucifixion, right next door to Ruper,
May/June 1975 issue cover of Climbing Magazine:
And Mike Munger from the November/December 1981 Climbing Magazine:
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ί Ξ Ψ T Η H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Mar 19, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
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it's hump-day bump-day!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 19, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
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Why is the red Gardenwall so yellow?
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 19, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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Thanks for the bump
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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Oh Man, do I remember Ruper! It was one of my few "grudge climbs," since it spit me out on my first effort in December 1962. I just couldn't make the crux move on p.2 due to being completely out of shape from working in a Hospital in Indianapolis, IN while doing my time in the Army. I was home on a brief leave prior to being shipped to Germany for 2 years.
It was never very far from my conscious while I did my time in Europe. It gained a mental image larger than life. It wasn't until Spring 1965 when I climbed it easily with Steve Thompson. I recall doing it almost annually after that. It was originally graded as a 5.7 by Layton and Bob Culp...nowadays a "tricky 5.8 (R)."
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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Seemed super fun, but I only did the first half. There is apperently some fun climbing on the second half.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:30pm PT
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An oldie but goodie! Very fun day and good timing as I will be seeing Chiloe and Tarbuster very soon!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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Cool stuff!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Mar 19, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
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Puttin the RAD in Radness yall! Enjoyed seeing this again. For the very first time.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
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I like this style of reporting, getting you all hooked in and anticipation building. Nice pictures and perspectives too.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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I really enjoy Tarbuster climbing reports, since they read so well, and the photos are wonderful! The history in this one is a major bonus!
I had hopes that this was from the last week, but it is great to visit it again.
Best Wishes to all involved!
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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Wow, been some great bumps of old TRs lately. This is classic.
Is that old photo really of Crimpie? Hard to beleive in some ways, not so much in others.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
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Yes, old photo when I was still living in Texas! It was pre-climbing life for me. :)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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That really was you? Woo-hoo! I thought it was a screen shot from some
Joan Collins movie or sumpin'.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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Proof I have combed my hair in the past. Ha!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 19, 2014 - 09:07pm PT
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A blast from the past, reading this classic Tarbuster TR-- no one does them better -- and reliving such a fine day.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 19, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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Tarbuster "got it right!" What a Classic climb in Eldo!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 19, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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Rock climbing at it's finest.
Thanks Tar.
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MH2
climber
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Mar 20, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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Three coots for a cheer!
And a coot extra.
I don't remember any bridge but do remember a pigeon exploding from a crack.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 20, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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One of the least memorable features of Eldorado is the ocean of Poison Ivy!
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L
climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
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Oct 10, 2017 - 03:37pm PT
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Well, I've never seen this one before...my loss. It's hysterical.
And the cast of characters--world-class!
Thanks, Roy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2017 - 03:39pm PT
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You're welcome, Laura!
And remember, drink up while you can!
Cuz ... unless some really spiffy IT person steps in to intervene, on December 31, 2018, unless I pay them a $400 per year ransom, Photobucket will break every single link of every photograph I've ever posted on Supertopo (~5000).
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L
climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
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Oct 10, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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Those rat bastards.
This is a historical treasure!
I really miss Chiloe.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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Me too. Larry Hamilton! One of the very best.
He has family here in Colorado, so I typically see him every other year or so.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 10, 2017 - 04:34pm PT
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Fun read...more please! I remember doing Rupert in 1967. It was at my limit then and a pigeon flying out of the crack and brushing my ear while I was ten feet above a questionable nut didn't help matters much.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Oct 10, 2017 - 04:43pm PT
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Great thread! Jim, you had nuts for pro in 1967 ? Peace out.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Oct 10, 2017 - 05:37pm PT
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Cuz ... unless some really spiffy IT person steps in to intervene, on December 31, 2018, unless I pay them a $400 per year ransom, Photobucket will break every single link of every photograph I've ever posted on Supertopo (~5000).
Say tB I'm coming up with about 3740 photos under Tarbuster monicker. Still a lot. I'm looking into a similar issue.
Will keep you posted if I discover a method.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2017 - 05:59pm PT
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Thanks much, Z Brown. Lemme know!
My 'at gmail' acct: rcmcclenahan
Back when I could still move freely in the world, and before SuperTweako morphed into little more than an argumentative mosh pit, I spit out quite a bit of this pictorial climbing oriented jazz.
I have over 100 threads produced similarly & saved to my hard drive, but that doesn't exactly make them readily accessible for readers here.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2017 - 08:36pm PT
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Z Brownstone:
Ifn you're still kickin' around the edges of this thread:
Took me about an hour to log into my photobucket. (Like trying to get a squeeze on a greased-up rat)
My count is 5,852 photos and for all intents and porpoises, that whole tB bucket exists only for this site. I bet your 3,700+ figure comes from threads which I authored. I'm guessing the balance shows up in the many threads of other Supertopians to which I've contributed.
This is why I would like to maintain all of the contributions, not just the Tarbuster threads. And photobucket funktionality is so dismal, I'm guessing they are going to die at some point.
 Not like it's any badge of courage, that 5K+ tally. Much like being a good pool player is merely evidence of a misspent youth!
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L
climber
Tiptoeing through the chilly waters of life
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Oct 10, 2017 - 08:43pm PT
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Not like it's any badge of courage, that 5K+ tally. Much like being a good pool player is merely evidence of a misspent youth!
Well, I figure if you're gonna misspend your youth, what better place to do it than on the rocks, eh?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2017 - 08:48pm PT
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heh.
Do you think my mom knows that's how that misspent youth went?
I've tried mightily to cover my tracks. But you know, like when I was 3 1/2 and hid half my spaghetti dinner inside the torn seat cushions of our dining set, I think she knows ...
Hugs and kisses to you, L.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Oct 12, 2017 - 12:10pm PT
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tB
eXactly. My search looked for posts by you. I only ever put a photo or two on photobucket, I'm still looking around.
I tried some software that made claims about what it would do. It didn't.
Hence, still searchin'.
It appears to be reasonably straightforward to get all your photos out of photobucket, but you want them to still appear as they originally did in the threads, right? That's a bit different from what I'm looking to accomplish, but I may stumble on something.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 12:53pm PT
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ZB wrote:
It appears to be reasonably straightforward to get all your photos out of photobucket, but you want them to still appear as they originally did in the threads, right? Affirmative, to the latter. And while it would be okay if we could make them reappear within the Supertopo picture posting framework, though acceptable, this would not be optimal, because my photos are sized for better viewing.
Ideally, my own website would be established, and all my photos would be moved to that location. Easily done. Next, some sort of shazam would be applied so that all the original photobucket links which exist within all of these Supertopo threads, would still work, or, per the suggestion below, new links would somehow be inserted into those threads which would refer to the new locations of the photos.
Here's the best suggestion I've seen so far, proffered by fellow Supertopian Jon Beck:
It could be possible to write a script that replaced all of the photobucket links with a new hosting link. In Tarbusters case it would be simple enough to have a bot that went post by post downloading the photobucket image, uploading it to a new host and changing the link.
Some bright kid could earn some money doing that. Maybe some enterprising Indians (the ones in India) will do it manually for a good price.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 01:00pm PT
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Thanks for putting your noggin to the grindstone on this project for me, zB!
Or at least thinking about it for a spell ...
Check out the family tree for The Flying Wallendas:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Flying_Wallendas
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Oct 12, 2017 - 02:08pm PT
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Damn. That's a lot of Wallendas
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 02:09pm PT
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10 four, zB.
Nature a.k.a. Doug Lafarge is my inside man, and has had some exchanges with RJ concerning other things in the past.
We've been discussing this of late.
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Oct 12, 2017 - 02:18pm PT
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Man that looks fun!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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So this first item is probably less desirable anyhow, because I want to get away from photobucket:
I don't think CMAC would have any interest in duplicating some subset of the functionality of photobucket. If he did, he'd probably have to charge for it.
And I'm interpreting the solution below to be something much easier for RJ to accomplish anyhow, and from his end on the inside, because he just has to run a straightforward script:
Once the data is correctly loaded into tBuster, then a very straightforward script could be run to do the name changes for ya. This would obviate the "access" issue, since "they" could do it.
Have I got that right?
(I'm not that tech literate. I'm more of a tinker toys, finger paints, cut and paste and makin' sandwiches kind of guy ...)
If loading the stuff to my own site comprises the larger effort, and running a straightforward script for the name changes aboard the Taco doesn't require a big ask, then it sounds possible.
Resistance on their end, to my mind, is the larger issue.
I have it on good authority that CMac ain't into much extra tinkering, if any. So whatever it is I ask of them, it has to be straightforward, perfunctory even, and clean.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2017 - 04:16pm PT
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Here's the main link to my photobucket account. It's not like any of it is something I would consider private. It's all on supertopo, almost every single photo. So perhaps to answer your questions, you can poke about if you like. I don't know how lack of my login will affect your ability to access things in there.
http://s51.photobucket.com/user/tarbuster/library/?sort=3&page=1
But to your questions:
One account, the master Bucket at the top, (which is itself an album) with a bunch of sub-albums below.
You'll notice most of the albums are public and not locked. Locking was just an afterthought, for some of the newer albums I've created.
Here's an example of three more IMG tags, with the [/img] stripped out, which I pulled from my photobucket account, each from independent albums:
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster/Needles/Roy168a-net_zpsozsr5pup.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster/roy%204/PA050003.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster/Grossmont_zps31syavau.jpg
Need to pin down who or what "i51" is? I don't know, but with our random samplings, it always shows up.
Is f399 the only album tarbuster has? It would appear so. I think that designates the account, or the master Bucket at the top of the page, because each link in each independent album has the same designation.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Oct 13, 2017 - 08:34am PT
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tB
I'm going to analogize to a big marble collection someone is storing for you. All the marbles are named and are kept in a big 50 gallon drum. Some directly in the drum, others contained within jars in the drum.
for example
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster DRUM
/Climbing%20Equipment JAR
/40c755bb-6168-43db-946c-56d62fb3765e_zpsstwsgk9v.png Marble
and
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f399/tarbuster DRUM
/x41.jpg MARBLE {nice shot of bvb BTW}
We need to determine what your marbles look like when you download them out of photobucket.
I googled "download all my photos from photobucket" and there seem to be a substantial number of folks conerned about this.
You could try downloading a subset to see what you actually get. I don't know if they force you to do a 'jar' at a time.
My guess is that you will end up with a whole bunch of marbles with their photobucket names all in the place yhou choose to send them to. Having all the marbles in one place could simplify writing a script to change the linkage code in ST.
BTW, when I recounted in ST looking specifically for your "drum", I got 3973.
I seem to recall that Ed Hartouni went through something similar to this a while back when he "re-hosted" a bunch (all?) of his photos. I don't recall if they had been in photobucket.
EDIT:
Looking for just photobucket.com/ => 58,677
Forum posts => 2,451,012
Don't spill any.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2017 - 09:02am PT
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'Um Kay,
Good analogy. I'll ponder this for a bit. Maybe I'll have a chat with Ed about what he did.
And of course, I'll continue to digest any advice & ideas you have to put forth! Thanks much, zB.
For the moment, I think this sums up the Project:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Heh!
Saddle up, RoyBoy!
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Oct 13, 2017 - 02:29pm PT
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Don't let the seeming complexity get ya down. Just remeber you have a lot of time and only one little piece has to get done at a time.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2017 - 03:18pm PT
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10 four.
Thanks for leading the first pitch!
Watch this space, and when I have something, we'll go from there?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 14, 2017 - 07:54pm PT
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I seem to recall that Ed Hartouni went through something similar to this a while back when he "re-hosted" a bunch (all?) of his photos. I don't recall if they had been in photobucket.
not photobucket...
I was using my Comcast "website" as a way to serve documents, images, videos, etc... when Xfinity picked up Comcast (or whatever) they discontinued support for those accounts...
as old threads surface with missing images, I upload them to the STForum account... I have the images pretty well organized.
Other stuff I'm serving off of the website edhartouni.net which I might get around to using in a more active way once some of my current projects complete.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
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Thanks for chiming in Ed.
Much appreciated.
Could you clarify please:
as old threads surface with missing images, I upload them to the STForum account... I have the images pretty well organized. ^ Are you saying here, when you speak of old threads surfacing with missing images, are you talking about threads where the links no longer refer to an active location because your Comcast account is defunct?
Or are you talking about harvesting photos, which still exist to be seen in these older threads?
And third, are you following what I'm trying to accomplish here?
What I want to do, is rehost all of my photobucket photos to my own website (i.e. reestablish them in a new location), & do so in such a way that most of what is seen in each individual IMG tag is similar to what is inserted into my old threads, & then see if I can persuade RJ to write a script (or more likely, implement one I give him) that will match (or rewrite) all of those freshly hosted photos up to their historical locations in threads on this forum, (w/ their new but similar IMG tags) wherever they exist in the forum, in total.
^ (This because, Photobucket no longer accommodates third-party hosting without an exorbitant fee, and furthermore because their website has become a massive pain in the ass)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 14, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
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yes I went through the same thought process...
this would be relatively easy to accomplish if we had the ability to edit old posts, but we do not.
You could write a script to search all you STForum posts, and then have the script edit them inserting the new image address.
STForum administration once allowed us to edit, now there is a time limit.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2017 - 08:51pm PT
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Yes, Ed, the limit for editing has been something like 11 days following the original post, for quite some time now.
You could write a script to search all your STForum posts, and then have the script edit them inserting the new image address.
I think this project is dependent on an ASK, wherein I wouldn't do it, but if the script could be implemented in a perfunctory fashion, RJ would do it for me on his end.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
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Once upon a time I had a Perl script that would search the STForum posts, and such a script would also be able to modify the posts (if permitted).
However, the robots.txt file for STForum does not allow this...
Got it. Thanks.
Is there an alternative approach?
What happened to all of your threads (or those of others to which you added photos) once you re-hosted the photos?
Did you simply lose all of your photographic contributions to those threads and just live with it?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 14, 2017 - 10:28pm PT
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hey there say, tarbuster... wow, i hope you all get this sorted out...
say, zbrown, nice to see you helping here, and ed, too...
oh my, tech stuff, and i have heard about the new pricey photobucket, too...
again, hope you get things worked out...
also, side note, wow, this is FUN!, :)
Do you think my mom knows that's how that misspent youth went?
I've tried mightily to cover my tracks. But you know, like when I was 3 1/2 and hid half my spaghetti dinner inside the torn seat cushions of our dining set, I think she knows ...
ALSO, loved that wallenda family tree, say,
what brought that up, by the way??
happy good eve, to you all, :)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2017 - 08:37am PT
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neebs said:
also, side note, wow, this is FUN!, :) Thanks! I also find that fun and funny! But that's no side note, cowgirl, that's an on target anecdote about where all this climbing came from, and where it went!
My father used to mark my memories as extending before I was two years old. My formative years are very crisp in my mind. I think that's partly why I was a good climbing guide (probably the only line of work I've entertained which could be called a profession); namely, because I've never forgotten what it's like to be young, clumsy, and inexperienced, and those not so distant memories, like lines in the palm of my hand, always helped me to empathize with what my clients were seeing and feeling as they were trying to learn the ropes, as it were.
He, my pops, had quite the memory for anecdotes himself.
Here's a story for you about ol' Rodger, who, by the way, pretty much from the start, always called me cowboy:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1657112&msg=2802957#msg2802957
As to the flying Wallenda clan, I was just riffing off of zBrown's mention of an 84-year-old trapeze artist up thread.
https://www.facebook.com/NBCSanDiego/videos/10154833311829609/
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 15, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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What happened to all of your threads (or those of others to which you added photos) once you re-hosted the photos?
Did you simply lose all of your photographic contributions to those threads and just live with it?
when threads come up with image links broken, I post the new links in a new post...
if the threads don't come up they remain broken.
I could search for them and restore them to every thread, but I figure that STForum isn't that interested since they haven't provided a way to relink images.
I don't consider STForum an enduring archive of climbing material.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2017 - 10:57am PT
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I don't consider STForum an enduring archive of climbing material. I hear you there, Ed.
Thanks for chiming in here with what you know about this stuff.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Oct 15, 2017 - 03:30pm PT
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It's comforting that Ed's take is pretty much in line with where we've been heading.
To start breaking it down into pieces
1). Gotta get the photos outa PB
2) Find a new host and get photos into it
3) Solve the fix up ST part of the puzzle
Now that we know each other a little bit better (old Jim Morrison line from Gloria live)
What in the heck is a Tarbuster?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=539369&msg=3020559#msg3020559
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 15, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
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hey there say, tarbuster... wow! so happy to hear from you, here on all this...
:)
wow, this is good too, as to your quote:
; namely, because I've never forgotten what it's like to be young, clumsy, and inexperienced, and those not so distant memories, like lines in the palm of my hand, always helped me to empathize with what my clients were seeing and feeling as they were trying to learn the ropes, as it were.
THIS, really, is what also helped me, make my life better...
and i never forgot any of that, as to how i felt, and how then, others must feel...
after i helped my self learn and grow, and then my kids, i made sure,
to this for others, too... though, not as a climber, of course,
but-- just climbing life's difficulties...
thank you for sharing, ... neat CLIMBER BACKGROUND stuff,
that so many of you all, have... :)
your dad sounds very special, :)
note:
am GOING to go read that thread now, :)
happy good wonderful day, to you!!! and the ol' homefront...
:)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2017 - 05:30pm PT
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Tarbuster:
Just some yokel sounding persona I pulled out of the left corner of my brain, with enough phonetic chunks and edges on it for people to get a grab on.
After I made it up and logged in with it here at club TacoBenders, I decided to Google tarbuster and see if anything close actually existed.
The search brings up pages and pages of a solvent for tar. And I do like to bust up crud!
It may have been Off White who coined the continental version, Tarboussier.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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