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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Sep 25, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
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Thanks Bruce,
The Squamish Climbing website said Oct 26.
Glad I followed Jim's advice and checked this thread.
See you tomorrow.
PB
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 30, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
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I was greatly saddened by Ed's death, and regret not being able to attend the memorial for him in Squamish yesterday. I hope his many friends were all there, and did quietly have a beer in Ed's memory last night, at the FaceLift end party.
As some know, I spent a lot of time over the last year restoring a route called Slab Alley at Squamish, the first route on our Apron, done in 1961 by Jim Baldwin and Tony Cousins. Perhaps our first real "multi-pitch" free climb. Cleaning it up, re-placing bolts, establishing some small variations, plus learning a lot about its history, and the history of climbing at Squamish then. Culminating in an ascent of it with Tricouni (Glenn), who did its third ascent in May 1962. Anyway, the project had several motives, but in part was in memory of Jim and Tony, but also of Ed.
Edit: Met Peter and Dave V. in Bishop yesterday, and took a little time to remember Ed.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 17, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
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Ed we will never forget you ....
Good 'ol swami balets and forest leg loops were awesome !
Peace out Brother !!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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more photos as per Jim's request …
A couple of us got lucky and landed summer jobs working glaciology for the government. Peder had a field position in 1978 and I got it in 1979
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perswig
climber
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stellar addition to an already-amazing thread
thanks for putting the scanner time in, bmacd
you guys and grrls up North are badass
Dale
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hooblie
climber
from where the anecdotes roam
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yes, great stuff!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nice photos, Bruce! I wonder if my brother has seen them?
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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MH - It's your brothers photos I want to see …
I've got Randy and Jim talked into coming over to my place for slide scanning sessions and post scan rendering. I have Craig Thompsons number now and will be calling him. I think he would have some good pictures of Darryl. Randy has some John Rosholt shots he wants to scan & post up to the memorial thread for John.
Peders writings about John Rosholt deeply inspired more than just a few people
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MH2
climber
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Wow! Feels like 1976 again. Especially nice close-ups and outstanding Lost Arrow shots. And good gentle pressure on others to contribute.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jim B did the Lost Arrow Direct with Jim Haberl and Bruce in spring 1982, when a big gang of Canucks were in the Valley. Some of us hiked to the rim to help with the Tyrolean and load carrying and such. At some point on the climb, Jim B lost his glasses - he's somewhat shortsighted. I bet the Tyrolean is just as scary even if you can't quite see everything.
A few days later, I gave Jim and two others a ride home, all four of us squashed into my 1969 VW bug. Pretty cozy. All Jim had at that point was his prescription sunglasses, so no night driving for him.
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pazzo
climber
Vancouver BC
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Mar 13, 2011 - 01:04am PT
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Bruce, I’m about 15 months too late on this, but Hamish is on The Wrong Stuff at Pet Wall, not Flight of the Challenger at Petgill Wall ;)
Here’s the start of The Wrong Stuff (it shares a common start with Flight of the Challenger):
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Bruce, are those pics from Astroman still with you? A few of them went missing on the thread it looks like. They sound like they are good ones from the captions.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Tami, GF, or anyone else know the story behind the Grinning Weasel pitch above the Left Side? Was it another mad englishman n doggy scene?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I was introduced to Hamish by Brents Hawks in the early 80's, and had an opportunity to climb with him once or twice. He was sw0le. A master. Learned a thing or two.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 18, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
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Bumpin
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dacooker
Sport climber
Vancouver, BC
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Oct 18, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
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Where's the Lycra?
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Timmc
climber
BC
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Aug 16, 2018 - 08:33am PT
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Bump for Bruce! Some great stuff in this thread.
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Peter Arbic
climber
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Aug 16, 2018 - 11:19am PT
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Not sure how I ended up on this wetback thread but Bruces photo's of Genus Loci remind me that we were on Ten Years After when you were bolting that! That and I finally figure out who Frostback is.
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