Squamish Climbers - the '80s - Photos

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Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Original Post - May 2, 2009 - 01:49am PT
The purpose of this thread is to spotlight the people who were Squamish climbers in the 1980's, home base was Squamish, so but we will include Yosemite, Bugaboos photos, where ever these people climbed and what, in the eighties. Otherwise there might not be many pictures of these folks, if we restricted this thread to Squish only shots in the 80's.


These are some of my pictures of Squamish climbers, first up, Uncle Bens on the Chief, a Burton and Sutton route, I believe. Which I did with Jim Brennan



Jim cleaning ....




Jim Leading ....





Croft ended up freeing this pitch, but of course I nailed it, to enable him.





Me cleaning ....




Jim leading .... etc, etc, until we got to the top.



lot's more pictures to come, I scanned 137 shots last weekend ...

By the way my name is Bruce MacDonald, drop me a note if you remember me from somewhere.

I was shooting with a 35mm Contax equipped with a Ziess 45mm f2.8 lens. Scans from slides were done with a Nikon Coolscan 5000. As I deal with more scans, if the edit timeout period allows, I will go back and update some posts with more pictures.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 2, 2009 - 02:07am PT
Are the shots from Uncle Ben's from the time when Jim fell on the last (second last?) pitch and broke a wrist?
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2009 - 02:11am PT
Hamish Fraser - Squamish's second greatest free climber of the 80's, after Croft.

I climbed a lot with Hamish Fraser. Here he is when he got the idea to free climb the Ten Years After face crack. He ended up making a route out of it involving some amazing slab climbing with bolts placed on lead to get there.

Anyway this was the first day, of what became a long project for him called Genus Loci. This is the prepping and exploration phase






Here is another shot of Hamish starting up one of our many trips up Grand Wall, armed with only a 1.5 friend, a #4 RP and a few stoppers and a bunch of biners.

Hamish going for the #4 RP placement at the crux of Apron Strings (10d), as we 4th class to the base of the Split Pillar.




Last pitch of Grand, the 5.10 undercling, 90 minutes later ... me arriving at Bellygood ledge




Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2009 - 02:14am PT
Anders, I wasn't going to mention that !!!!!!!

We got to the last pitch and then wham, Jim lands on top of me.

Jim is going to be pissed with you ....

What a way to start a great thread.
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2009 - 02:46am PT
This is a tribute to Jean McCrae post.

Jean was one of the very few women climbers in Squamish. In fact besides Tami, and Candice, Simon Tooleys girlfriend, who else of that gender was climbing in the 80's ?

What happened to Jean ? Where is she now ?

This is Jean finishing up the last pitch of Grand Wall with me.




Jean leading the 2nd to last, pitch on Grandwall. Rated 5.9 Note the Whillans harness and EB's




Jean dealing with the Bellygood Ledge, traverse off of Grandwall. I think the original party crawled this section, hence the name.

neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 2, 2009 - 02:50am PT
hey there, say, climbing dropout... thanks for this wonderful share... kind of like a history lesson, too...

wow, great share... :)
MH2

climber
May 2, 2009 - 03:19am PT
Much appreciated, Bruce. I last remember seeing you at a lakeside in Whistler some years ago.

Hamish is well known for being a little known great climber. That Genius Loci whomped Catalin and me. I had seen a picture in Canadian Geographic of Greg Foweraker on the dike that leads back to the Split Pillar. The dike was a narrow strip of positive holds with nothingness above and below. Had to get there, and Genius Loci looked like the way. First mistake was starting with the first pitch when we could have gone to the 3rd, where Hamish in your picture is starting up from the standard traverse from Mercy Me to the Pillar. By the time I got to the relatively easy dike I was too far gone to do even that without a rest. In short, if Hamish calls a pitch 5.11 then don't expect to onsight it, and if he calls it 5.12 then don't expect to climb it, period.

Andy Cairns

Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
May 2, 2009 - 11:17am PT
Hey Bruce -
Jean M is teaching high school in Bby. She teaches art & photography. She is very well regarded by her students. Oddly enough one of my CirKids also has Jean as a teacher. I tell Laura, the cirkid, she has two bad influences. She thinks that's funny.

Not sure if Jean is still climbing ....Laura did say she's facing another ACL repair. Remember she had one in '84 or so after that horrible accident in the Yukon where Kim nearly bled to death on the ledge as the camp cook had the radio turned off.

Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 2, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
Nice thread - I'd like to think that Apron Strings is 10d. I always thought it was hard for the 10b in the book of the time. Cutting over from Merci Me to the base of the Pillar. Note the EBs with the leather panels sewn on the sides.



Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 2, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
OK, my apologies to Jim. But it did happen, and was probably the first 'real' rescue from any of the Grand Wall routes. 1983 - I helped a bit with the rescue. They let me carry a rope or something. You guys just had a bit of bad luck.

Anyway, great stories and photos - reminds to get back to work and finish up the "Climbing at Squamish in the 1970s" thread. And all useful for the projected history of the first 50 years of climbing at Squamish.
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
I concur, Apron Strings is 10d. I think Smailles grades in his guide book contributed to a lot of subsequent Squamish climbs being under graded.

Jim was rushing himself, and grabbed a loose block. He was only about 10 feet above me, but I took a big hit when he dropped on top of me with the weight of a huge rack of pins. Being kinda mentally stunned for the next while, I thought we were on our own up there, and racked up to do the last pitch myself, thinking it was the only choice, as me lowering and rapping the entire route with Jim in his condition was out of the question. I thought I could haul Jim up to Bellygood and get him off myself. I set up Jim with a sticht plate for the belay, with his one good hand. Before I set off, I looked at him, he was not even aware that he was supposed to belay me. His level of pain was very high, I guess he had gone into shock. So I pulled out a red sleeping bag and set it up as a flag. There were some climbers on Slab Alley, I started yelling to them for help. I think every Squamish climber there ever was, showed up to get us off safely..

This was the only time anything even remotely bad ever happened during my climbing career.

The situation was a show stopper down on Highway 99. This shot also shows the original winding section of Hwy 99, which became known as Psyche Ledge.




More photos and stories from me to come after the weekend.

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 2, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
There is more or less a rest on Apron Strings, just before the crux on the first pitch. You place some gear, then step/bridge down and right to a foothold at the top of a blank groove. Not great, but helps. Knowing of the rest might reduce the number of spectacular plunges from that point though - people have a tendency of going for it at that point, often to their regret.

Most of Gordie's grades in the 1975 guidebook seem fine to me, though some were based on a single or few ascents - the Apron Strings crux might be 5.10c for a move or two. I first did it free in autumn 1974, so it can't be that hard.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 2, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
For those who have not been there, looking up at Merci Me (or is it Mercy Me? - that Canadian/French thing). The easy path up to the base of the Split Pillar (Apron Strings or Cruel Shoes are outstanding more difficult alternatives). On the right side of the photo you can just see the crack that is the left side of the Pillar. The classic Split Pillar route goes up the right side and can't be seen in this shot).



Squamish is an incredible place to climb.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 3, 2009 - 02:14am PT
Dear Anders and Bruce,
No need to apologize or be overly sensitive. After all, I took a risk free climbing in Vasques with wall loads on , fell and broke my wrist.
I'm still thankful for the help friends and strangers offered that day. After the fact, Jock Richardson straightened me out. "Don't beat yourself up, that's why we wear ropes and use gear".
By the way Bruce, what scanner or program did you use to refresh those old pictures?

Jim


Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
This is a tribute to Dave Vernon post.

Dave was a Squamish Climber I also climbed a lot with. He was poking around Squamish back in the '70s, and probably still is today.

Our best climb together was the West Buttress of the South Howser Tower - aka Chouinard Becky route.

We climbed it the same day as Croft and Hamish did it as an unroped simu solo together. They were an hour ahead of us onto the route, knowing Dave and I were the backup crew, should things go haywire for them.

Truly a stellar route and a very long day for Dave and I. Tami remembers the date. Dave wore his EB's and I had on some piece of sh#t, one size too large Vasque Ascenders which I wore for the approach and the climb. Totally frightening footwear, when it came to the 5.10c face climbing traverse out over the void, near the top.


Starting out the route, it was obvious what lay ahead above this overhang was some amazing climbing on quality alpine granite.





The lower 3rd of the route is not very steep at all.





The perspective of the route above changes, wildly, at this point, the Buttress headwall becomes very prominent




Being on the headwall is spectacular. After this is the dicey face climbing traverse left, which really puts you in space. The wall drops 2000 very steeply below you as you gain the grooves that comprise the final section which lead to an airy summit.




We were blown away by the chalk marks Hamish and Peter had left on the face to get to this belay. It must have been very mentally challenging for both of them to complete the ultra exposed face climbing traverse


Cloudraker

Big Wall climber
BC
May 3, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
Wow great stuff guys - keep it coming!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 4, 2009 - 01:18am PT
Hi Bruce. Thanks for getting this started -- we've been stuck in the 70s for way too long.

By the time the 80s hit Squamish there was a big enough community that not everybody knew everybody else well -- although it was still small enough that most people knew most everybody else at least a little.

Here's a shot of somebody who played a big part in Squamish climbing then -- not so much for his climbs just at Squamish, but also in the mountains of southwestern BC. A fine climber, a fine partner, a fine friend, and a fine man: Don Serl.

Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
May 4, 2009 - 02:17am PT
Serly Don Bump !

klk

Trad climber
cali
May 4, 2009 - 10:35am PT
Wow, a Jim B sighting!

Tx for starting the thread, Bruce. I don't have many Sq pix left-- I'll see if I can find some more later this week.

Apron Strings always felt 10b to me. Although it still had a fixed pin the last time I did it.

And Mercy Me was the "easy" approach to Split Pillar only if you aided the last pitch. Otherwise it was 5.11, and that last bit before the Pillar was always the crux of Grand Wall for me, at least back when the upper bolt ladder hadn't been freed.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 4, 2009 - 10:43am PT
Yup - you can see Steve following that last bit in slings in the photo up there. I never found a 5.11 route up that bolt ladder. We french-freed it long before I'd ever heard that expression. I think this last short section of the traverse from Mercy Me to the base of the Split Pillar is part of the original Baldwin-Cooper line. Back in the early 80s when I did it, there were no hangers--you slipped the wires from wired nuts over some bent, rusty 1/4" bolts.
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
Another tribute to Hamish Fraser post ....

Fall of 1989 I was in the Valley and having a wicked trip climbing a number of classic day long free climbs, with numerous different partners, including the DNB with Dean Hart.

Then Hamish showed up ....

Astroman was not on my tick list, but it was on Hamish's. He needed a warm up so we got on the full Rostrum to get him in the groove. Unfortunately I did not take my camera on the Rostrum, but I did have it with us on Astroman


This is looking up to the Harding slot, 3 pitches above, from the belay on top of the Endurance pitch. Hamish running it out on easy ground.




Hamish was pysched to get shots looking down the changing corners pitch as he had seen images of Ron Kauk there, in Time magazine that looked great. We are still waiting for Time Magazine to return our phone calls, or at the least, my negatives ....





Another shot, because this is such a great spot





Note to self, jam feet in crack to conserve strength, keep tongue in mouth to conserve for elusive and mythical Squamish climbers girlfriend back at campsite.




Serious climb, but not so serious Squamish climbers




We summitted in good time that afternoon as evidenced by the shadows in this picture, completing the route in a 7 hour time frame. That evening Croft showed up in our lower Pines campsite to congratulate us and inspect the backs of my hands for damage. There wasn't any so he was impressed. We felt awesome about the whole day and having Peter come by that evening to inquire about how it went, was really cool.




Gene

climber
May 4, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
Bump for a Climbing thread
MH2

climber
May 4, 2009 - 06:46pm PT

Jim Brennan halfway on Apron Strings, September 2005







Jim at the crux of Apron Strings

Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
Smith Rocks was good winter destination for us Squamish climbers in the early 80's. Drier but colder than Squamish

Here is Hamish getting ready to put up the rope, Dean Hart kicking back and venerable Smith rocks local Chris Jones, lurking in the background, making sure we get the full on "High" Definition Smith Rocks tour. Chris was a great host !





Dean leading something, I think it's Zebra to Zion




Dean doing a desperate clip, same climb. Hamish demonstrating the hip belay technique is possible while lying down. This probably would have been a ground fall with that belay !




Hamish putting up some rope on Z to Z




Hamish trying something on the Monkey. It's too cold and too hard for us, but Hamish was stoked because he just got his drivers license, so it was much easier for us to get him across the border this time. A permission note from his parents had not been cutting it in the past with the US border guards ....




EB's and Swami belts .... same climb as previous photo




Awesome scenery at Smith, no people what so ever. Had the place all to ourselves.

sagot

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jan 1, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
Hey Bruce
Here is an old photo of the traverse on Cruel Shoes. Taken by Bob Millward in 1982...I think. Scott

Credit: sagot

Here is one of our trip up the "Fomein Rimnys" (Roman Chimneys)
Credit: sagot
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 2, 2010 - 01:54am PT
Jean was one of the very few women climbers in Squamish. In fact besides Tami, and Candice, Simon Tooleys girlfriend, who else of that gender was climbing in the 80's ?

Maybe there weren't thousands of women climbing at Sq in the 80s, but there were certainly more than the three you mention. I ought to know -- I was married to one of them.

Here's a shot of Corina, actually from the 70s, but it should serve to show that there were more women climbing than you may remember. In fact, in 1981, which is only the very beginning of the 80s, Corina made her second trip to Baffin Island.
Corina on the second ascent of Laid Back
Corina on the second ascent of Laid Back
Credit: Ghost

And there were plenty of others. Not thousands, and not on the covers of the magazines, but out there pulling down.
spectreman

Trad climber
CO
Jan 2, 2010 - 10:39am PT
Here's a classic Squamish crack. Keep this thread going! It's great to hear about the history of such an amazing area.


photo not found
Missing photo ID#139956


photo not found
Missing photo ID#139957
bmacd

Social climber
British Columbia
Jan 2, 2010 - 04:29pm PT
Scott hello old friend !!

Ghost, yup your right ... as per Tamis recent rant on Becky Diamond there were more female climbers around Squamish than I recalled. Thanks for the reminder !

Wool knickers & EBs on University Wall upper corner system - Ouch !
Wool knickers & EBs on University Wall upper corner system - Ouch !
Credit: bmacd
bmacd

Social climber
British Columbia
Jan 2, 2010 - 09:25pm PT
Sagot aka Scott Young on Wrist Twister A4 Squamish Chief
Scott Young on wrist twister, Squamish BC
Scott Young on wrist twister, Squamish BC
Credit: bmacd

Photos of first interventionists Dean hart and Randy Aktinson, on Vision Quest 5.12a, The North Walls Squamish Chief.

North Walls pioneers - Randy Atkinson & Dean Hart
North Walls pioneers - Randy Atkinson & Dean Hart
Credit: bmacd

High in The North Walls, Vision Quest 5.12a -  Squamish Chief
High in The North Walls, Vision Quest 5.12a - Squamish Chief
Credit: bmacd

Lycra clad visionary, Dean Hart, dialing in Vison Quest.  The North Wa...
Lycra clad visionary, Dean Hart, dialing in Vison Quest. The North Walls, Squamish BC
Credit: bmacd


Supertopian "Chief" bringing up Hamish on a free version of U-Wall
Perry Beckham and Hamish Fraser on U-wall.  Squamish Chief, BC
Perry Beckham and Hamish Fraser on U-wall. Squamish Chief, BC
Credit: bmacd


Us nailing U-wall feature now known as the Shadow. My partners are California wildman Kevin Duck and South African expatriate Ross Nichol
Ross Nichol and Kevin Duck, 2nd pitch University Wall, Squamish Chief
Ross Nichol and Kevin Duck, 2nd pitch University Wall, Squamish Chief
Credit: bmacd


John Simpson and myself atempting a new line left of University wall. We left fixed ropes to this high point while we contemplated the next pitch which required a long bolt ladder to link the rest of the route. Someone chopped our fixed lines so that made our decision for us. Adam Diamond, many years later phoned to ask me about the route and completed it for us in 2000. It is now named Bald Egos and apparently is the longest route on the chief. It did not receive a second ascent till 2008. Nice work Adam !!

John Simpson & moi,  intial foray, "Bald Egos", Squamish Chief  FA Ada...
John Simpson & moi, intial foray, "Bald Egos", Squamish Chief FA Adam Diamond et al. early 1980's
Credit: unknown


Enough spray from me for today, hopefully someone else has some cool Squamish shots


Chief

climber
Jan 2, 2010 - 11:12pm PT
Thanks for starting this great thread.
Sorry I never took any pictures.
I'm pretty sure that's Hamish with me on U Wall.
We bailed near the top of the fifth as a crucial pin had been pulled.
I'm not sure I agree that Hamish should be described as second best Squamish climber. He was one of the greats, period.

10D for Apron Strings? It sure can feel like it if you blow off the virtual no hands at the crux. Check out the huge ledge under the bush in one of the pictures.

Keep it coming, looking forward to more.

Perry
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 3, 2010 - 12:12am PT
Great to see the pictures of Randy and Dean on the North Wall. Here's a story that may be of interest on that subject...

At that time (mid-80s), I was editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal, and I ran fairly long piece about what they were doing up there. Seemed to be a real step forward. I remember walking (crawling? groveling?) out across the ledge to the base of their climbs being completely blown away. A wild place, and some long and difficult climbs.

So I published the story, and got some fairly serious sh#t from people who felt that the real action at Squamish that year had been at Petrifying Wall. Why, they asked, had I glorified a bunch of stupid trad climbs way up there in the ozone, and ignored the super hard sport climbs two minutes from the road at Pet Wall? The 80-foot routes there were at least two letter grades harder than the six-pitch stuff on the North Wall, so why hadn't I featured them instead? Couldn't I see that these sport climbs were the wave of the future at Squamish?

Anyway, for the 99% of Supertopians who don't know anything about Squamish, the sport climbing never really caught on (although there are sport areas a bit further north), but those North Wall routes have stood the test of time.

Someone (Perry?) ought to talk about The Northern Lights, and maybe some of the new stuff that has been done since.

D
MH2

climber
Jan 6, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
Just a bump to encourage more from the Squamish base in the 80s.


Comparison shots of the 3rd pitch traverse on Cruel Shoes, 1984 versus 2009:




Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Jan 7, 2010 - 12:32am PT
What happened to the poor bush?
Does the Sierra Club know it got yanked?
sagot

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jan 7, 2010 - 12:57am PT
I guess the bush got trimmed!

Top of the split pillar Aug. 1980
Credit: sagot
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 7, 2010 - 01:05am PT
The tree may well have been trimmed, or have simply fallen out. There's some debate about why trees on the rock at Squamish seem to be doing fairly well. My belief is ice fall in winter has been the major limiting factor in vegetation growth, at least until recently. Squamish is very wet in winter, and its mean temperature near freezing. The cliff tops are somewhat colder. This means great accumulations of snow and ice plastered on and above cliffs, which come crashing down during warm periods, obliterating everything in their way. Including shrubs.

Until the 1980s, winters at Squamish were often cold and wet, but there have been few such lately. In springtime in the 1970s, there were often 10 m or more of snow and ice at the base of the Grand Wall, usually with rocks and trees mixed in. The Eryl Pardoe Hut, built on the Dance Platform in 1971, was severely damaged by ice fall within a few years.

Note that the El Cap Tree is the only significant tree on the the southeast or southwest face of El Cap, or at or near its base. Again, pummelled by ice fall, with that one tree protected by overhangs.

Some vandals have proposed removing the lovely cedar at the base of the Split Pillar, although it seems doubtful it has much to do with the stability (or not) of the pillar. The thing is a giant semi-detached flake, sitting on a small pedestal that's quite some distance from the little tree. Eventually the whole thing will come down, most likely due to earthquake or frost heaving.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jan 7, 2010 - 12:24pm PT
Hey Scott!

Nice to see you posting. When things calm down, I still have a few slides to scan.
bmacd

Social climber
British Columbia
Jan 7, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
Foweraker and Brennan day tripping - The Black Dyke - Grade V 5.9 A4, ...
Foweraker and Brennan day tripping - The Black Dyke - Grade V 5.9 A4, Squamish Chief, BC
Credit: bmacd

Das Split Pillar
Das Split Pillar
Credit: bmacd

Scott Young at Soo Bluffs
Scott Young at Soo Bluffs
Credit: bmacd

Kevin Duck last pitch of U-Wall
Kevin Duck last pitch of U-Wall
Credit: bmacd

Croft on Shannon falls, Squamish
Croft on Shannon falls, Squamish
Credit: bmacd

gf on The Bastille, South Gully, Squamish BC
gf on The Bastille, South Gully, Squamish BC
Credit: bmacd

Hamish Fraser - Flight of the Challenger - Petgill wall, Squamish BC
Hamish Fraser - Flight of the Challenger - Petgill wall, Squamish BC
Credit: bmacd

GCF ? no it's Peter Croft - Split Beaver  circa 1980 Squamish BC
GCF ? no it's Peter Croft - Split Beaver circa 1980 Squamish BC
Credit: bmacd
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 7, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
This is a different view of the money pitch of the Split Pillar Right. Looking up from the base of the long corner.
Split Pillar, Squamish
Split Pillar, Squamish
Credit: Mike Bolte
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 8, 2010 - 02:33am PT
Bruce I think that last pic is of Peter. I recognize the chalk bag, trousers and ratty hair-do.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jan 8, 2010 - 02:56am PT
This is fantastic-keep it coming!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 8, 2010 - 03:23am PT
Yeah, what Guido said. I have nothing to say but keep it coming.
bmacd

Social climber
British Columbia
Jan 8, 2010 - 03:39am PT
Aahhh thanks for the positive response guys. I will have to rent that slide scanner again. Here are a few more ...

GCF belaying Hamish on "The Wrong Stuff" at Pet Wall, Squamish
GCF belaying Hamish on "The Wrong Stuff" at Pet Wall, Squamish
Credit: bmacd

Here we are nude sunbathing in El Cap meadows. <br/>
Aaahh California, liv...
Here we are nude sunbathing in El Cap meadows.
Aaahh California, living the dream
Credit: bmacd
Timmc

climber
BC
Jan 8, 2010 - 09:52am PT

Please keep scanning Bruce.

Gold.

TM
bmacd

Social climber
British Columbia
Jan 8, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
Timmc, as per your request !


Reposed from another thread, Timmc on "Perrys Lieback" Grandwall Squamish

Perrys Lieback  Grandwall - Tim MCallister
Perrys Lieback Grandwall - Tim MCallister
Credit: bmacd


Hamish hello to you out there if you are reading this !

Hamish Fraser - Red Zinger, Yosemite
Hamish Fraser - Red Zinger, Yosemite
Credit: bmacd

Hamish - Red Zinger, Yosemite
Hamish - Red Zinger, Yosemite
Credit: bmacd


More shots of another great Victoria/Squamish climber and old friend Mike Beaubien. Hey Mike are you out there ?

Rostrum, low down
Rostrum, low down
Credit: bmacd

Mike Beaubien - Traversing into the base of the Split Pillar, Grandwal...
Mike Beaubien - Traversing into the base of the Split Pillar, Grandwall, Squamish
Credit: bmacd
bmacd

Trad climber
British Columbia
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Perry, here is a shot of Dave Dunaway back in '89. I remember him talking about climbing with you in Squamish. Holy f*#k did we tie on a buzz drinking vodka on this day.

Dave was a real life cowboy from Williams Lake as I recall. I'd love to be able to send him a copy of this picture.


Dave Dunaway
Dave Dunaway
Credit: bmacd

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:09pm PT
Nice to hear from you, Perry! Been a long time. As much as I love the place, I haven't been back to Squamish since 1979. (Still sorry about dropping that rack).

Greg Cameron
Chief

climber
Jan 8, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
Bruce,

Holy stabs from the past!
Nice work with the scanner.
Great to see a picture of Dave aka "Too Tall" or "Thag Simmons".
Dave Vernon appears lounging with a naked man?


Greg,

Great to hear from the "Grug from Cameroon" after all these years.
Where the hell are you! You definitely set the bar with Pipeline.
I remember that day well, I think Tom and George were up on Freeway and you were without a partner or that was your excuse. Stuff of legends. We're in Josh and So Cal for a few weeks, be great to see you and Tom again.

Perry (pbeckham@shaw.ca)
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Jan 9, 2010 - 11:08am PT
Perry. Tom and I are in Boulder, Colorado. I'll let him know you said hey. Fun times back the. Wish I had a better memory. I credit you with the inspiration for Pipeline (Pipeloads is what we had actually called the FA). Have a fun So. Cal trip.
bmacd

Trad climber
British Columbia
Jan 9, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
Greg Foweraker, (ST poster GCF) recruited me for Humpty Dumpty, a hard aid route on the main wall of the Chief. I found the route to be very challenging mentally and technically. We hammock bivied on the shittiest, rustiest, quarter inch bolts in the world.

Don Serl snapped these photos from the adjacent route, "Ten Years After" of us and gave me copies. He was climbing with Joe Buszowski whom I have some unscanned photos of somewhere I'm sure.

Greg doesn't say much on here, so I'll keep the backstory and verbal description to a minimum. Except to say this was supposed to be a training climb for us in preparation to go to the Yukon with Daryl Hatten .... I ended up jamming out on the Yukon trip with visions of endless alpine A4 in my head

Humpty Dumpty - Grade V A4 - Squamish Chief, BC
Humpty Dumpty - Grade V A4 - Squamish Chief, BC
Credit: Don Serl

(Insert the sounds of Darryl heckling us from the ground here) - "You're Light !"

Humpty Dumpty, Squamish Chief : climber = bmacd
Humpty Dumpty, Squamish Chief : climber = bmacd
Credit: Don Serl

The climb went very well for us, no falls, the worst parts were the rusty 1/4" bolts with rusty leeper hangers, at the belays.

Route goes up here ....
Route goes up here ....
Credit: google


Often I make things out to be a much bigger deal in my mind than they ever were in reality.


Anyway this post is for Foweraker .... thanks for all the good times
gf

climber
Jan 10, 2010 - 07:51am PT
Bruce,
ST is such a guilty pleasure, why work when one can slack off looking at the nice pics you've posted and take a walk down memory lane. Thanks for the kind words and allow me to extend the same in your direction. I can't recall the surname, but I think it was a fellow by the first name of Gord that Don was climbing 10 yrs after with when those shots were taken of you leading the hard pitch of HD.

bmacd

Trad climber
British Columbia
Jan 10, 2010 - 01:24pm PT
Greg this is from our first road trip together to Leavenworth, with Hamish. You had your sights on this route, Brass Balls. So with your permission I'll post it. I'm not sure what year this was, but it was the weekend after we first met and did the Bastille. Possibly late 70's ? Hope your life endeavors are going well these days.

Greg Foweraker - Brass Balls - Leavenworth, Washington State
Greg Foweraker - Brass Balls - Leavenworth, Washington State
Credit: bmacd

I like the grainy, foggy format of these old pics, it's soo authentic.

I thought all those pitches on Humpty Dumpty were hard, the expando sickle, the rurp pitch, hooking the dyke. Amazing achievment by Hamish, soloing that thing before we got on it.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 10, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
Tweaked contrast, sharpness and color balance- maybe still authentic l...
Tweaked contrast, sharpness and color balance- maybe still authentic looking.
Credit: Mike Bolte
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 10, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
And Scott finished the first ascent of Humpty Dumpty solo, in 1977. He and Carl and Dick and others had fixed several pitches over winter 1976-77, starting from the end of Mercy Me, and Scott did the last two or three on his own. PDH.
gf

climber
Jan 10, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
Bruce -thanks for the scan and Mike for the cleanup without taking away the BITD essence. That was a trip in the old pinto if i recall? Jeez that photo shows off some fancy footwork on BB -no wonder climbing in thailand held such appeal!
Good point re Hamish on HD -even more impressive by the sub 24 hr car to car including a bivy all at the ripe old age of 17. Although by then he had his drivers license and didn't get harassed like the time he was 14 and was hitching over to solo what I think was the first clean aid ascent of u wall when the rcmp figured he was a runaway.
sagot

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jan 17, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
Bob Millward trying Zombie...1982ish
Credit: sagot
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 17, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
Bob Millward trying Zombie...1982ish

Complete with Whillans and EBs. Even in 82 that was retro.

Last time I saw Bob (which is probably 15 years ago), he was deeply commited to building fly rods. From bamboo I think (but that could be wrong).
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Jan 17, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
Nice thread! Chief, is that you Perry Beckham? I'd also like to know how Hamish is as well...Peace, Michael Paul.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 18, 2010 - 12:01am PT
Wat - that is Perry typing on this thread.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 19, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
Hey Ghost if the Zodiac climbs are the real deal and Pet Wall not so popular then how come on the average weekend in Squamish there are 20 or 30 climbers at the PetWall and none on the Zodiac?
bmacd

Trad climber
British Columbia
Jan 19, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
Memories 4 the Squamish crowd

Craig Thompson was a dedicated Squamish climber in the 80's. He and Darryl Hatten established Darryls last new wall route immediately right of the Black Dyke, on the Chief, named the "Negro Lesbian" It is probably a better route to aid solo than any on the chief because of the complexity. Jim B. please comment on that ....

Craig was someone who knew how to enjoy life and always had a beyond positive attitude ...

Craig Thompson, Cheam Range, BC
Craig Thompson, Cheam Range, BC
Credit: bmacd

Craig Thompson
Craig Thompson
Credit: bmacd

He also made parties at my parents house a big hit !! Like destroying my moms family heirloom collectors china ceramic dolls while describing a climbing route using wild hand gesticulations .... oh god that was funny - meanwhile Darryl is passed out cold but upright in a poofy chair in the most conservative family setting he has ever encountered ... too f*#kng funny. The pictures I never took.

Hey you ST. Squamptons lets hear a few stories about Craig living on Judd road ! But what if his kids know about google ?

Squamish Chief photo scarfed from the Metolius site ...
Sqaumish Chief in Winter
Sqaumish Chief in Winter
Credit: Metolius Products

The Roman Chimneys
Roman Chimeny, upper Squamish Chief, BC
Roman Chimeny, upper Squamish Chief, BC
Credit: bmacd
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Jan 28, 2010 - 02:14pm PT
My apologies for posting something about climbing ....

But by request today from Squamish, more 80's nostalgia shots of the squampton crowd in action, squish, yosemite, and elsewhere

Click images to see larger size.

The Black Dyke, The Chief 5.9 A4 - one of my many FAILURES !! now rate...
The Black Dyke, The Chief 5.9 A4 - one of my many FAILURES !! now rated 5.13b
Credit: bmacd

Meltdown on winter trip to Smith Rocks with Dean and Hamish
Meltdown on winter trip to Smith Rocks with Dean and Hamish
Credit: bmacd

Hamish Fraser hanging out on the Chief, Squamish
Hamish Fraser hanging out on the Chief, Squamish
Credit: bmacd

An Aid climb on the Chief with Jim B ... dunno the name
An Aid climb on the Chief with Jim B ... dunno the name
Credit: bmacd

The venerable Dave Veron styling the NE Butt of Higher Catherdral - BI...
The venerable Dave Veron styling the NE Butt of Higher Catherdral - BITD
Credit: bmacd

Mike Beaubien, Rostrum Yosemite
Mike Beaubien, Rostrum Yosemite
Credit: bmacd

1981 -  bmacd's first Yosemite trip, Central Pillar of Frenzy
1981 - bmacd's first Yosemite trip, Central Pillar of Frenzy
Credit: Mike Beaubien

High, above Harrison Lake with Craig Thompson
High, above Harrison Lake with Craig Thompson
Credit: bmacd

Bryan Beard was another whom unfortunately decided suicide was an opti...
Bryan Beard was another whom unfortunately decided suicide was an option - Fairview Dome
Credit: bmacd

Vancouver climber & South African expatriate hardman, Ross Nichol, off...
Vancouver climber & South African expatriate hardman, Ross Nichol, off the deck on a Pavillion Wall route in Marble Canyon, BC
Credit: bmacd

Pavilion lake and the big limestone wall there
Pavilion lake and the big limestone wall there
Credit: British Columbia Archives

Dave Vernon and Ross Nichol - Summit of Steck Salathe - BITD
Dave Vernon and Ross Nichol - Summit of Steck Salathe - BITD
Credit: bmacd

Dave and Ross, Summt of Steck Salathe - BITD
Dave and Ross, Summt of Steck Salathe - BITD
Credit: bmacd

Early morning  in the Chehalis range, BC
Early morning in the Chehalis range, BC
Credit: bmacd

Squamish fools in Paradise !!!
Squamish fools in Paradise !!!
Credit: bmacd
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 28, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
The "aid climb on the Chief with Jim B" may be Cannabis Wall, pitch 2. Nice photos!
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Jan 28, 2010 - 02:59pm PT
I think it's Slow Duck now that I look at it. I hadn't done much of Cannabis except for unsuccessfully trying to link into Freeway from it as a free climb.
Chief

climber
Jan 28, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
Nice work on the scanning Bruce, keep up the good work!
I think Jim B. is on Slow Duck aka Dead End Dihedral?
Maybe I'll try to scan the thirty or so pictures I took in about as many years of climbing.

PB
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 28, 2010 - 04:12pm PT
Bruce I"m not sure what pitch that is....tho' I recognize it terribly. Oy!

I'm also very sorry to read Bryan B took his own life. I didn't know that. He was a fragile guy & climbing seemed to be a fabulous outlet for his energy - as it was for so many of us ... but we didn't feel a need to exit these four dimensions by our own hand. Suicide is the worst tragedy I think.

LOVE the new set of pix Bruce. It's a fine and most excellent addition to this great thread of yers.

And a fukkload more kind to read then the mayhem going on with some of the other threads presently on the front page..............oy oy oy.....

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 28, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
Sorry to hear about Bryan. I knew him fairly well and climbed with him back then, but lost touch long ago. Maybe I didn't know him as well as I thought, but he certainly didn't seem headed for that ending. RIP

As to the mystery pitch, it doesn't look like Cannabis to me. And speaking of Cannabis wall in the 80's I posted a story about it on an ST thread a while back. Those interested can view it (and the cartoon Tami made of it) at http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=877110&msg=878064#msg878064

But the title "Hard Men, Soft Poo" should give you fair warning. Click on it at risk of losing your lunch.
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Jan 28, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
Perry we are all very eager to see your pictures, "all" meaning all supertopo members, I am sure. Please contribute because I'll run out of shots very soon. The problem is I don't recall many of us carrying cameras BITD, therefore every photo is great value.

Slow Duck is definitely the Mystery pitch, I am sure Tami free climbed it with Peter in the end.

Bryan was a fragile soul, very unfortunate he chose the path he did. Avoiding the challenges in this life thru suicide is a guarantee you are assigned even harsher difficulties in your next 3D iteration. I'll take my bad medicine here and now instead.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jan 28, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
I think Peter did an FFA of Slow Duck. Or at least I have some memory of that :-)
MH2

climber
Jan 29, 2010 - 03:29am PT
Something about climbing?

And about Squamish?

Bruce?


The mystery for me had been that Slow Duck appeared in the Jim Campbell topo guide but doesn't show in later guides.


Here is Seattle climber Darryl Cramer on that corner, in the early 80s.

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 01:12am PT
So one morning Rick says,"where's Rocky?"

Meanwhile Rocky, Rick's super excellent dog has followed his nose to a tidal pool of the Squamish River. The search is on, then ends with the appearance of Rocky.

He's overjoyed, wagging his tail so hard his body is shaking. Barking and jumping to say,"you guys won't believe it,I've found heaven!". Heaven was the many dead, spawned out salmon in the pool that Rocky got to swim and roll around in. Even after a solid hour of soap and garden hose to remove the fish bones,skin and perfume,there was no love.

Chastised as only a dog can express, Rick drove Rocky back to Sechelt. No climbing for you! Rocky was one of the best mountain dogs ever. All dogs go to heaven they say, so he must have good company with Artis, Hera, RUSTY and of course Norton.

ps. I forgot Eddy, Hamish's Schipperke powerhouse who always punched above his weight.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 01:30am PT
^^^^ gaaaaaaaagghhh..
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 01:34am PT
Had to be there Tami. He STUNK, it was too funny.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 6, 2010 - 02:39am PT
Great pics Bruce! Sorry about your friend Bryan; Tami is right, suicide is the most tragic...

That's a classic dog story Jim. I used to take my dogs on mushroom hunting forays with me until I realized I spent more time keeping track of dogs than finding choice edibles. They seem to excel at finding dead sh^t to roll in or hornets nests to disturb.

Keep the good times rolling ...
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 02:50am PT
yeah man !

Dogs all have the same middle name.......TROUBLE !!!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 6, 2010 - 02:58am PT
So I imagine your dogs have gone through the Northwest My Dog Likes Dead Salmon sickness that our "best friends" acquire from eating dead salmon. They get really sick the first couple times and then they become immune and it's open season after that.Fun Times.

Sorry for the thread drift.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 03:04am PT
Hey Wayno,

If only humans had the capacity to revel in dead salmon, there would be less war.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 6, 2010 - 03:22am PT
I know, it really is that simple. Humans, as a species, tend to make things a lot more difficult than they have to be.

So I was wondering... It's a little late and I'm a little buzzed and I'm not totally clear on the cast of characters, and all this can make me a little slow, but is Climbing Dropout and Bmacd the the same entity? If so, then, KICKASS thread Bruce.

I don't know how many good climbs I have left in me, but I want at least a couple to be in Squamish. Yerian needs to join me.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 03:30am PT
Yes BMACD and climbing dropout are the same. BMACD is definitely a far more present alias. I get irritated at the mention of an "avatar", such wankestry.
MH2

climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 03:42am PT
If only humans had the capacity to revel in dead salmon, there would be less war.


Plus, it's hard to get upset at people when your dogs can take you completely away from your "problems" with just a fart. Our dogs like to rub their heads in decomposing seagulls, crows, or whatever they find, and they seem to be proud of and generous with their breath odours.

Bruce, that Deadend Dihedral we only followed for 2 pitches. I think the topo showed a 5.12 move either at the end of or just after p2. We didn't do any 5.12 move. The climb goes a lot higher, now, but seldom gets done.


Thanks to all the contributors to this thread.
Chief

climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 04:27pm PT
Thanks to Mighty Hiker for forwarding this photo of yours truly as a young, aspiring crag rat. Circa summer of 77, turning the roof (1st pitch?) on the third or fourth ascent of the original Sherrif's Badge route. Photo, "The Bear".

PB Sherrifs Badge 77 &#40;photo P. Ourom&#41;
PB Sherrifs Badge 77 (photo P. Ourom)
Credit: Chief
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Feb 6, 2010 - 05:26pm PT
Awesome Perry ! keep em comming, I know you have more.
MH raid your brothers photo stash again !

Hey Wayno got any Squamish wall shots ?

Sheriffs Badge
Sheriffs Badge
Credit: Rich Sobel
gf

climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 06:03pm PT
Perry-you have taken more shots than I ever did so post up! Remember the time we did that winter traverse of the tantalus range with don giving us hell about not taking shots only to find out his camera was on the fritz the whole time he was laying into us? I wish I'd taken more, as the years go by I sometimes think I'm living out an old david byrne line "I lie awake with memories"

Bruce,
Way to go on this thread, I might yet shelve the surf board and bust out the shoes, Respect to poor Brian. Funny, I was thinking about Craig the other day and how he brought along a peach pie when we climbed a new route in the Chehalis in 92. Good luck on getting anyone to fess up on the infamous judd road -that goes to the grave i'm afraid!
Not sure it was I that took that shot on CPF-was that in 81?
G
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 6, 2010 - 07:48pm PT
Only in my dreams. The only walls that I have done are in Yose.

So if I wanted to do a wall at Squamish, what would be a nice moderate one for old washed out geezers?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 08:09pm PT
Wayno,

University Wall, clean. A1, slightly awkward.

Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 6, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
Holy Eater of Food - And Sue was ready to kill you three ( on the Tantalus traverse ) c'os you were overdue. Nevermind rescue you'd have had to face her wrath.

Judd Road.
Snicker, tee hee.......
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 6, 2010 - 10:52pm PT
Not to mention The House On No Name Road. Even Zaumen stayed there once.
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:35pm PT
GF - Are you saying you gave up climbing ? Hard to believe. When was the last time you got out ? On CPF It was my camera, so I am sure it was you as I also have Bircheff Williams pictures of you from the same trip or so I thought.

Wayno check out Uncle Bens. I'd like to do that one again.

Anders just post up your brothers squamish wall shots for crying out loud, I am sure he won't mind.

Anyone talk to Craig T. lately whats going on with him ??

Thread title is "Squamish Climbers - the photos" can be anywhere ... if you have already posted to this thread then you are exempt from any date restrictions on subsequent photo postings.
---
Chief

climber
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
Greg,

I remember freezing our asses off at the bivis, thinking we were done when that crevasse bridge collapsed and feeling like a real mountaineer when we summited Alpha on a clear winter day. I think there's some photos of some bad late Serratus/early MEC one piece wind suits, now that was horrendous!

Wayno, ditto fro the U Wall, classic anyway you do it.

Judd... Hey Jim, remember Daryl gazing out the window and saying,
"Hey guys, check it out, two horses..on two horses."

Medusa, the shoulder sucks.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
My brother has started to get his photos scanned. He gave me a CD with about 40 on it, mostly from Squamish climbers late 1970s - early 1980s. Some I passed on to those in the photos, e.g. Perry. When I get a chance, I'll ask if I can post the other photos. Maybe one of you should send him a link to this thread, and he can see what's here and whether he'd approve?
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Feb 6, 2010 - 11:49pm PT
Hamish is reading this thread so maybe he will pop the question to Peder

Anders I can color correct and post process for you on my computer if Peder says yes before posting so they look A1
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Feb 7, 2010 - 12:08am PT
Photo time again .....

Mighty Hikers brother, Peder Ourom - Wartleys Revenge, Smith Rocks
Mighty Hikers brother, Peder Ourom - Wartleys Revenge, Smith Rocks
Credit: bmacd

Mike Beaubien - NE Butt Higher Cathedral Spire, Yosemtie
Mike Beaubien - NE Butt Higher Cathedral Spire, Yosemtie
Credit: bmacd

Jim Brennan - completing the Lost Arrow Direct.  Last man off ...
Jim Brennan - completing the Lost Arrow Direct. Last man off ...
Credit: bmacd

Eiger north face veteran, Ross Nichol - Mt Slesse BC
Eiger north face veteran, Ross Nichol - Mt Slesse BC
Credit: bmacd

Jean MCrae - 2nd to last pitch Grandwall, Squamish
Jean MCrae - 2nd to last pitch Grandwall, Squamish
Credit: bmacd

photo not found
Missing photo ID#144552

Dick Mitten - Grit Roof, Joshua Tree
Dick Mitten - Grit Roof, Joshua Tree
Credit: bmacd

Greg Foweraker - Bircheff Williams, Middle Cathedral
Greg Foweraker - Bircheff Williams, Middle Cathedral
Credit: bmacd

1st Canadian K2 sumitteer Jim Haberl - R.I.P.
1st Canadian K2 sumitteer Jim Haberl - R.I.P.
Credit: bmacd

1st Canadian K2 sumitteer Jim Haberal - R.I.P. - Lost Arrow Direct
1st Canadian K2 sumitteer Jim Haberal - R.I.P. - Lost Arrow Direct
Credit: bmacd


Vicki and Kevin Haberl - Serratus summit, Tantalus range BC.  - Kev an...
Vicki and Kevin Haberl - Serratus summit, Tantalus range BC. - Kev and Jim climbed the N. Face of Mt. Temple in the rockies when they were teenagers
Credit: bmacd

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 7, 2010 - 01:39am PT
A little late night bump. There is more good stuff coming out of Canada now besides the Olympics.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:05am PT
Early 90's [hope they count] teasers of a fun trip to the Tiedemann Glacier side of Mt. Waddington.

Credit: Jim Brennan

I'm quite busy but will try to scan more pics.

Harry Kettmann passing the Grand Cappuccino on the way to Serra 2
Harry Kettmann passing the Grand Cappuccino on the way to Serra 2
Credit: Jim Brennan

Jim Elzinga on Dentiform
Jim Elzinga on Dentiform
Credit: Jim Brennan

Credit: Jim Brennan

GF suffering in the harsh Canadian north
GF suffering in the harsh Canadian north
Credit: Jim Brennan

Harry in the flawless crux corner on FA of Sundog.
Harry in the flawless crux corner on FA of Sundog.
Credit: Jim Brennan

Rapping Dentiform
Rapping Dentiform
Credit: Jim Brennan

Nothing perfect to climb in the back ground, move along........
Nothing perfect to climb in the back ground, move along........
Credit: Jim Brennan
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:21am PT
Right on Jim, those count bigtime. I would edit the thread title if I could.

198x  Dean Hart drilling, Randy Aktinson belaying, Samsun Narrows BC
198x Dean Hart drilling, Randy Aktinson belaying, Samsun Narrows BC
Credit: bmacd


Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:21am PT
Wow Jim, those are some awesome shots. You start with the moon over the approach chopper; a little buildup suspense...
Then you open up into a nice shot showing much potential and a climber in pose...
And then a nice, "I'm on top of the fecking World" shot.
Beauty.
That must of been quite a fun trip.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:45am PT
Yeah Perry, Hattini was a lotta laughs and a great partner.

Jim Haberl caused people to do their best by his humble, encouraging ways.

We had the privilege of their company.
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Feb 7, 2010 - 02:55am PT
I hope I die as noble a death as Darryl did ...

In the end, the good samaritan was a total lightweight relative to Darryl's final sacrifice
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 7, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
I can almost hear Daryl grinnin' like a banshee at us now & sayin' "I died fer seventyfive bucks and a little pussy..... "

Oy!

( fer those of you who are unfamiliar with Daryl's death - he was offered money to rescue a cat from an arbutus tree but slipped and fell to his death )

Glad to hear more of old gang actually lurk on this thread in additon to those posting. Hey Haggis !!!
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 7, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
A wee bump to keep this thread on the front page just a little longer. It's way cool to hear from other member of the "Loyal Order Of Hattini's Hammer."
MH2

climber
Feb 8, 2010 - 01:28am PT
Two other old-timers: Neil Bennett and Gordie Smaill (might have to invoke the 70s inclusion)
Thanks Bruce!








bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful British Columbia
Feb 8, 2010 - 01:40am PT
MH2 thanks, a most welcome addition !! Where were first the 2 shots taken ? Is it Clean Corner ? I recognize Skaha granite in the other ones.

Thread drift at this point is essential to keep this one going.

I would like to see the people posting here and already featured in the photos follow Jim Brennans example and post pictures of their adventures in faraway and alpine places. 70's 80's 90's and beyond. Jim your stuff was great to see I hope there is more. What about your Karakorum trip ?

Pull out the shoe boxes of slides boy's and start scanning. Anders informs me that London drugs and Walmart will scan slides for you.
MH2

climber
Feb 8, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
Is it Clean Corner ?

You're right. Most of today's climbers would not recognize it. Just that the approach was seldom done.


Jim Brennan's trip to Waddington was excellent.


There are bound to be great images from the 80s still out there, too. If only Peder would suffer a lapse of judgement and join in. But maybe via Anders. Hoping.
sagot

Trad climber
Vancouver
Feb 19, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
Here's a butt shot of S&M's Delight - freshly cleaned. 1981??ish (Sorry, running low on photos. There must be more out there...)
photo not found
Missing photo ID#146369
gf

climber
Feb 20, 2010 - 10:49am PT
Neil, Gordie-lets see some of NA wall shots from that early ascent-might make a nice contrast to the more recent ones gordie could entertain us with from cuba (it would be nice to see where that bolt donation ended up!)
gf
Bin Dur

Sport climber
BC
May 19, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
Hi everyone. This is great folks!

As I get older my partners get younger, and my goals mellow. Here we are bigwalling a local tr crag:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#157959


Bruce way to go . . .
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
May 19, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
This was intended for use in Alpinist back when they used to do those climber profiles with the super serious b&w mug shots in every issue...
Don
Don
Credit: Oplopanax
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 19, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
Hey DH ! ! ! !

Nice of you to show up and that's a super cute picture of young Emma !

Jim
Bin Dur

Sport climber
BC
May 19, 2010 - 04:41pm PT
. . . and from the '90s, with proper attire

photo not found
Missing photo ID#157962
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
May 19, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
Bin Dur is in the house !! Right on !

Oplopanax identity revealed !!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 20, 2010 - 02:12am PT
Deano tell yer goddam kid to remember her goddamn tramp routine.

Su loved yer riggin' the other nite & yer wife said The Emma loved ridin' in the Genie.................hahahahaha. You crack me up.

This forum is nuts. Welcome to the loooooonacy.
MH2

climber
May 20, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
Bin Dur is in the house !!

That is great!

Wonderful pictures, too.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Aug 14, 2010 - 02:38am PT
I hate like hell to bring this to our little group's attention but I have some sad news.

Our friend Ed Spat has passed on after a fight with cancer.

My encounters with Ed were excellent moments of good cheer and adventure spread out over many years. How can you not feel great when brain - grappling with a + 6' red headed physicist who's smile threatened to break the top of his head off.

Thanks for all the fun Mr. Spat.

Jim
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 14, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
Sad news about Ed, although not unexpected.

A year ago, after he was diagnosed, a bunch of us got together for a day of climbing and fun. Here we are:
photo not found
Missing photo ID#166781
Ed second from right. A few SuperTopians in there, too. And yes, we were being a bit goofy.

Takk for alt!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 14, 2010 - 07:52pm PT
Weird but I thought about Ed last night and wondered how he'd be faring and thought shitIthink he's already gone. Dang.

One summer Saturday morning in June '82 Ed and I were supposed to go to Mt Robie Reid ( it might'a been Judge Howay ) with an Alpine Club group. I was arriving from the island, having taken the first ferry. I was gonna pick up my car at my folks place, fetch Ed, fetch a canoe from a predescribed location , meet some Alpine Clubbers at a predetermined location and, you know, bag the peak.

I arrived at my folks to the news my pal Linda had been killed the night before in a devastating car crash on the Lion's Gate Causeway. It was a crash not unlike that which would kill Princess Diana eventually. Linda was DOA to the hospital with a flail chest and burst aorta. It was my mum's birthday. I shoved my sh#t in the trunk of the car and went to get Head Splat, the infamous eating machine, Ed Spat.

That was uneventful.

We determined to fetch this canoe - needed for the lake approach. WE knew we had a pretty rigourous paddle up Stave Lake. Ed and I were gonna borrow a Coleman canoe from someone we didn't know. The address was on Kent Ave x 41st Street or so we understood.

" It's around Cambie St. " said Jane in her cheery NZ accent.

Thirty minutes turned swiftly into 45 and then over an hour and we had no fukkin' clue where Kent Ave was near Cambie. Yeah, turns out it was, like, some km to the east of there, near Burnaby.

Those of you who know/knew Jane will be laughing your asses off rite now.

Ed and I did find the address and loaded the canoe onto the roof of the Vega doubling it's length in a dubious manner. We'd blown through the time of meeting all those Alpine Clubbers at the predetermined location. This being pre-cel-fone time we just fuct off to Stave Lake knowing we'd catch up.

Arrived at Stave Lake, parked, unpacked the boat , paddles and our packs. Some fishermen idly watched. They cocked eyebrows when we tossed big backpacks with crampons & ice axes attached.

"What are those for? " they queried.

"We're headin' up lake to the mountains. We're gonna need these for snow & glacier travel". The anglers exchanged glances.

We piled in, me in the front as bowsprit and Ed the horsepower in the rear. And we paddled uplake joyfully with that dip dip dip and drip drip drip that only flat water paddlers can really enjoy.

Stave Lake is held back by a dam and it's long and thin, heading up valley into the Coast Range. We rounded a spit of land and .......... saw the end of the lake.

Huh?

The end of the fukkin' lake? I looked at Ed. He returned the look.

"Ummm....that would be the end of the lake" I said.
"Indeed" he drew out the word in order to take up time while we both wondered what was up with this stupid lake. It was supposed to be LONG ....and head into the COAST RANGE mountains. Not stop after a goddamn spit of land.

Ed sparked the fatty. Passed it to me. I drew deep and returned it to him. He puffed again, considering. I took the lighted spiff from him and we started to snicker. That turned to raucous laffter. We were on the wrong lake. We both knew it. But it was a sunny day and we were outside and we had food for, you know, two days, so what the fckkk..........we finished the j and eventually paddled back to the car and loaded our crap back into the Vega and strapped the big green beheamoth onto the top.

We were glad the anglers had left.

Ed Spat you remember this story I know you do. Thanks for that. And the crazed home made beer and that big stupid car you and Andy drove. And the messy way you two kept the lawn at the place on 7th Ave.

I know Emma H will also miss you too. I'll talk to her in September. Okay?
MH2

climber
Aug 14, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
And we paddled uplake joyfully

Beautiful, Tami.

Ed seemed unfailingly cheerful to me, even a couple months ago.
gf

climber
Aug 16, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
I have many happy memories of Ed. Climbing with Ed was always fun no matter what; his ability to take the uncertainties of weather, partners or the route in stride was rare indeed. Post climbing activities sometimes involved matching wits (he always won) over his legendary ability to start a phone company with a copper penny when it came time to split the bill. What made it fun though was that for Ed it was just sport; and thats how I'll always remember him; the guy with the big grin.
GF
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
Aug 17, 2010 - 12:07am PT
Rest in peace Ed ...
sad news for sure.
T H

climber
Aug 17, 2010 - 03:21am PT
Squamish is always great on ST . Tami's post - easily the best writing this month , or the whole summer for that matter .
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Aug 17, 2010 - 09:30am PT
Sad news. Ed was one of the warmest-hearted people I've met.
matisse

climber
Aug 17, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
Oh NO!!!
I've been friends with Ed for years. I'm so sorry. He never told me he had cancer, it is rough to find out about it this way. Ed was (god it hurts me to type "was" instead of "is") one of my closest friends while I lived in Vancouver, we lost touch some when I moved to So Cal + he moved to Auz, but stayed in touch a bit through facebook.

I had taken up cycling and was riding out near UBC in about 1986 or so when Ed came up behind me and slowed down to chat (he never could pass up a girl on a bike). We spent a lot of time hanging out after that. I spent an awful lot of time looking at his bum, desperately trying to keep up with him on the north shore hills..he was a good climber and I was a sprinter. In the spring of '87 I did my first race and there was Ed the night before truing my wheels and making sure my shifters worked. Ed took up sewing his own lycra jerseys, but I was a better seamstress than he was so I made us complementing jerseys in bright cobalt blue with back and white leopard spot insets. He also turned me on to poptarts and baked potatoes as cycling food BITD before bars and gu and crap.

aw Ed I'm going to miss you.
Sue

I just remembered Ed's little Orange Fiat. There was a cat who insisted on leaving cat tracks on the windshield. Drove Ed nuts, he was always on about that cat.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 17, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
Sue - If it helps, Ed told very few about his illness. Indeed he lived kitty-corner to me here in town & I only found out from friends that he had suffered a rare 2 primary cancers at once. Some good news this spring was he was doing well.........sadly, however, that remission was short lived.

Your story was wonderful!
LyttelStone

Trad climber
Lyttelton, NEW ZEALAND
Aug 22, 2010 - 04:07am PT
Ahhh loving this and loving being reminded of the characters that made Squamish such a cool place to do all-too-brief time in at the tail end of the 80s

for my 10c heres a shot of Dean Hart at work on the upper roof of the Black Dike...
Dean Hart at work-upper Black Dike
Dean Hart at work-upper Black Dike
Credit: LyttelStone

and from my first ever Squamish mission...
Guy Edwards & Kaj Paget-Grand Wall Base
Guy Edwards & Kaj Paget-Grand Wall Base
Credit: LyttelStone
On my first visit to Squamish I wandered in to the Psyche ledge camp area and was immediately was accosted by an uppity schoolboy>> Guy Edwards who ordered me to dump my pack and play hackysack...thanks for all the great memories Guy !

Cheers
John the Kiwi
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 22, 2010 - 11:20am PT
Hey John - & Thanks for the pic of Guy ....like Ed Spat another sadly departed too early. Guy was a fabulous human with huge passion and the guts to get out there. We Canucks ( esp those of us in BC ) don't celebrate our heros the way the Yanx do; not that it matters really. What the hell is a celebration but something that could end in a drunken brawl and people sleeping with someone else's partner? Hahahahahaaa

Thanks for postin' up. All the best to you & hope you are well...
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 22, 2010 - 11:31am PT
Love that pic at the top of this page. So uh....revealing.

Powerdrills are A-ok at Squamish!!
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Aug 23, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
Very sad news about our old friend Ed being taken way too young.
I don't remember Ed being anything other than large, orange and smiling all the time.
Condolences to all. Hope there's a wake in the works.

PB
gf

climber
Aug 23, 2010 - 03:23pm PT
Chief,
I have chatted with Andrew and Dean last week in regard to a wake. There seems to be an emerging consensus that an appropriate memorial for Ed would be at the Shining Sea traverse, a place Ed visited and/or rode his bike by many a time over the years. Details to come, but my understanding is this will be the weekend after Labour Day.
gf
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
Aug 23, 2010 - 03:53pm PT
Keep us in the loop gf, thanks
nooska

Mountain climber
Canada
Sep 22, 2010 - 01:29am PT
Daryl Hatten was my friend,he was a great person to know. I like to remember the best and it's not that hard to remember..There were alota good times he was a hoot.. Always friendly, open heart sorta guy, the ultimate climber..take care my friend ,always in my thoughts Doug :)
bmacd

Trad climber
Grade V, Level III Kook, certified 100%
Sep 22, 2010 - 02:22am PT
Regarding Ed Spats wake, here are the details
RIP Ed Spat
RIP Ed Spat
Credit: bmacd
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Sep 22, 2010 - 02:24am PT
Thanks Bruce !!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Sep 22, 2010 - 07:56am PT

Tami
Check your email. . .
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Sep 25, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
Thanks Bruce,

The Squamish Climbing website said Oct 26.
Glad I followed Jim's advice and checked this thread.
See you tomorrow.

PB
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 30, 2010 - 02:30pm PT
I was greatly saddened by Ed's death, and regret not being able to attend the memorial for him in Squamish yesterday. I hope his many friends were all there, and did quietly have a beer in Ed's memory last night, at the FaceLift end party.

As some know, I spent a lot of time over the last year restoring a route called Slab Alley at Squamish, the first route on our Apron, done in 1961 by Jim Baldwin and Tony Cousins. Perhaps our first real "multi-pitch" free climb. Cleaning it up, re-placing bolts, establishing some small variations, plus learning a lot about its history, and the history of climbing at Squamish then. Culminating in an ascent of it with Tricouni (Glenn), who did its third ascent in May 1962. Anyway, the project had several motives, but in part was in memory of Jim and Tony, but also of Ed.

Edit: Met Peter and Dave V. in Bishop yesterday, and took a little time to remember Ed.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Nov 17, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
Ed we will never forget you ....

Hamish Fraser on-sight flash Sunshine Dihedral .12a, Smith Rocks while...
Hamish Fraser on-sight flash Sunshine Dihedral .12a, Smith Rocks while Brook Sandahl and Chris Grover observe the action. Dean Hart is belay slave
Credit: bmacd

Good 'ol swami balets and forest leg loops were awesome !
Randy Atkinson belays Dean hart on Vision Quest FA attempt. North Wall...
Randy Atkinson belays Dean hart on Vision Quest FA attempt. North Walls, Squamish Chief
Credit: bmacd
Scott Young luvin life on Soo Bluffs ice
Scott Young luvin life on Soo Bluffs ice
Credit: bmacd

Peace out Brother !!
photo not found
Missing photo ID#178510
Dick Mitten on Grit Roof @ Joshua Tree
Dick Mitten on Grit Roof @ Joshua Tree
Credit: bmacd
Dale Cody aka Captain Granitic - we only wore helmets in the winter ba...
Dale Cody aka Captain Granitic - we only wore helmets in the winter back then.
Credit: bmacd
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 5, 2010 - 03:40am PT
more photos as per Jim's request

A couple of us got lucky and landed summer jobs working glaciology for the government. Peder had a field position in 1978 and I got it in 1979

Dr. Jeff Schmok - Glaciologist & geophysicist
Dr. Jeff Schmok - Glaciologist & geophysicist
Credit: bmacd
Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979 - Base Station Zebra
Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979 - Base Station Zebra
Credit: Jeff Schmok
Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979
Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979
Credit: bmacd
Jeff Schmok
Jeff Schmok
Credit: bmacd
Peder Ouram - he still looks exactly the same 30 years later
Peder Ouram - he still looks exactly the same 30 years later
Credit: Jef Schmok
The huts at Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979 - a place called home fo...
The huts at Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979 - a place called home for a summer
Credit: bmacd
at work - Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979
at work - Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi Lake 1979
Credit: bmacd
Jeff, Geogette and myself before a trip up Wedge mtn.
Jeff, Geogette and myself before a trip up Wedge mtn.
Credit: bmacd
Wedge Mtn
Wedge Mtn
Credit: bmacd
Exploring above Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi park
Exploring above Sentinel Bay, Garabaldi park
Credit: bmacd
Signing a summit register somewhere, Dave Christie & me &#40;Castle To...
Signing a summit register somewhere, Dave Christie & me (Castle Towers from Sentinel Bay)
Credit: bmacd
Garabaldi in the distance to the south
Garabaldi in the distance to the south
Credit: bmacd
The view from the office - summer '79
The view from the office - summer '79
Credit: bmacd
photo not found
Missing photo ID#180804
Climatologist extraordinaire
Climatologist extraordinaire
Credit: bmacd
Garabaldi Lake 1979 - as seen from the office
Garabaldi Lake 1979 - as seen from the office
Credit: bmacd
Chehalis Range - A golden objective for many Squamish climbers
Chehalis Range - A golden objective for many Squamish climbers
Credit: bmacd
Bugaboos Granite - Mecca for Squamish Climbers
Bugaboos Granite - Mecca for Squamish Climbers
Credit: bmacd
A Young Foweraker - already posted I think
A Young Foweraker - already posted I think
Credit: bmacd
Another Glaciology hut - Bridge River Icecap
Another Glaciology hut - Bridge River Icecap
Credit: bmacd
photo not found
Missing photo ID#180813
Way up high on the good ol' Chief
Way up high on the good ol' Chief
Credit: bmacd
Blair Griffiths @ Mt Slesse - killed months later in the Kumbu Icefall...
Blair Griffiths @ Mt Slesse - killed months later in the Kumbu Icefall on an early Canadian Everest Expedition - RIP
Credit: bmacd
We made many forays into Washington State
We made many forays into Washington State
Credit: bmacd
Rocking the swami belt in the bad ol' days - Clean Crack - Malemute - ...
Rocking the swami belt in the bad ol' days - Clean Crack - Malemute - Squamish
Credit: bmacd
Near Squamish, the mountains lured us up to play
Near Squamish, the mountains lured us up to play
Credit: bmacd
Squamish Chief backside trail - home of many burly classics like "Bop ...
Squamish Chief backside trail - home of many burly classics like "Bop till you Drop"
Credit: bmacd
Mighty Hiker's classic route - Seasoned in the Sun
Mighty Hiker's classic route - Seasoned in the Sun
Credit: bmacd
photo not found
Missing photo ID#180821
Beyond Squamish - The Canadian Rockies - Land of the truly hardcore
Beyond Squamish - The Canadian Rockies - Land of the truly hardcore
Credit: bmacd
On Belay !!!  Fairview  Dome
On Belay !!! Fairview Dome
Credit: bmacd
Hamish putting up the rope again .
Hamish putting up the rope again .
Credit: bmacd
Canadian Stonemaster and Croft protoge' - Hamish Fraser
Canadian Stonemaster and Croft protoge' - Hamish Fraser
Credit: bmacd
Team Canada in camp 4
Team Canada in camp 4
Credit: bmacd
Note my Whillans Harness - Don Serl did this face climb in crampons 30...
Note my Whillans Harness - Don Serl did this face climb in crampons 30 years ago
Credit: bmacd
jim Brennan
jim Brennan
Credit: bmacd
Nailing adventures on Wrist Twister - Squamish Chief
Nailing adventures on Wrist Twister - Squamish Chief
Credit: Scott Young
Squamish's 1980's version of Alex Honnold - - Hamish Fraser
Squamish's 1980's version of Alex Honnold - - Hamish Fraser
Credit: bmacd
My personal pilot and all round great climbing partner - Mike Beaubien
My personal pilot and all round great climbing partner - Mike Beaubien
Credit: bmacd
photo not found
Missing photo ID#180833
Craig Thompson enjoying a ciggarette on the summit
Craig Thompson enjoying a ciggarette on the summit
Credit: bmacd
Dean Hart pushing new ground
Dean Hart pushing new ground
Credit: bmacd
Squamish Icon - Randy Atkinson - still kicking it hard
Squamish Icon - Randy Atkinson - still kicking it hard
Credit: bmacd
Greg - "Foodeater" - Foweraker  aka Supertopian "gf"
Greg - "Foodeater" - Foweraker aka Supertopian "gf"
Credit: bmacd
Hamish enjoying a snack after a long hard day
Hamish enjoying a snack after a long hard day
Credit: bmacd
Chehalis time - Peder and Timmc
Chehalis time - Peder and Timmc
Credit: bmacd
Dean Hart during his "Trad" phase - Roman Chimeneys - Squamish Chief
Dean Hart during his "Trad" phase - Roman Chimeneys - Squamish Chief
Credit: bmacd
Peder planning out the recipe for tomorrows adventure from his favorit...
Peder planning out the recipe for tomorrows adventure from his favorite cook book - "Chehalis Range Bi-Afran Diet Planner"
Credit: bmacd
Jean McCrae - Squamish Climber
Jean McCrae - Squamish Climber
Credit: bmacd
Mt Slesse - the place where Squamish climbers found out what they were...
Mt Slesse - the place where Squamish climbers found out what they were made of ...
Credit: bmacd
yet another shot of Jim Brennan
yet another shot of Jim Brennan
Credit: bmacd
perswig

climber
Dec 5, 2010 - 08:09am PT
stellar addition to an already-amazing thread
thanks for putting the scanner time in, bmacd
you guys and grrls up North are badass

Dale
hooblie

climber
from where the anecdotes roam
Dec 5, 2010 - 08:18am PT
yes, great stuff!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 5, 2010 - 12:54pm PT
Nice photos, Bruce! I wonder if my brother has seen them?
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Dec 5, 2010 - 01:00pm PT
Bruce those pix are FABOO!!!!! Love the one of Jean. And Foodeater. hee hee !!!!!
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Dec 5, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
MH - It's your brothers photos I want to see

I've got Randy and Jim talked into coming over to my place for slide scanning sessions and post scan rendering. I have Craig Thompsons number now and will be calling him. I think he would have some good pictures of Darryl. Randy has some John Rosholt shots he wants to scan & post up to the memorial thread for John.

Peders writings about John Rosholt deeply inspired more than just a few people
MH2

climber
Dec 5, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
Wow! Feels like 1976 again. Especially nice close-ups and outstanding Lost Arrow shots. And good gentle pressure on others to contribute.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 5, 2010 - 04:49pm PT
Jim B did the Lost Arrow Direct with Jim Haberl and Bruce in spring 1982, when a big gang of Canucks were in the Valley. Some of us hiked to the rim to help with the Tyrolean and load carrying and such. At some point on the climb, Jim B lost his glasses - he's somewhat shortsighted. I bet the Tyrolean is just as scary even if you can't quite see everything.

A few days later, I gave Jim and two others a ride home, all four of us squashed into my 1969 VW bug. Pretty cozy. All Jim had at that point was his prescription sunglasses, so no night driving for him.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 5, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
Anders,

My eyes are nearsighted. It's my opinions that are shortsighted.

Jim
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Mar 13, 2011 - 01:04am PT
Bruce, Im about 15 months too late on this, but Hamish is on The Wrong Stuff at Pet Wall, not Flight of the Challenger at Petgill Wall ;)
Credit: pazzo

Heres the start of The Wrong Stuff (it shares a common start with Flight of the Challenger):
Credit: pazzo
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 3, 2011 - 01:01am PT
Bump for the Squamish Photos and Stories thread crowd
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 3, 2011 - 11:40am PT
Nice loggin' at the base o' the wall there, eh?
:-)
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:51am PT
Bruce, are those pics from Astroman still with you? A few of them went missing on the thread it looks like. They sound like they are good ones from the captions.
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 5, 2011 - 04:01am PT
Tami, GF, or anyone else know the story behind the Grinning Weasel pitch above the Left Side? Was it another mad englishman n doggy scene?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 5, 2011 - 04:30am PT
Grinning Weasel is an obscure Frank Zappa reference. Originally The Left side of the Split Pillar was named The Grinning Weasel by Bill Price and Daryl Hatten who I had always thought did the first free ascent.

I'm foggy about who freed the pitch above into the Right Side but do know Peter Croft and Greg Foweraker climbed it as part of a route that connected with the original pendulum point on Ten Years After. From there they continued on to Bellygood Ledge. This contributed to an independent Ten Years After and a cool link from the Left Side to Bellygood.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Oct 5, 2011 - 04:34am PT
I was introduced to Hamish by Brents Hawks in the early 80's, and had an opportunity to climb with him once or twice. He was sw0le. A master. Learned a thing or two.
gf

climber
Oct 5, 2011 - 05:18am PT
Hey bvb
Hamish may be lured to write a page or two -he lurks and i know checks this thread from time to time.
Regarding the left side -the original .9/10a connector from left to right side may have even been figured out pre croft -i recall doing it with him but am unclear if that was a FA.
Now, moving onto more interesting climbing is the classic "Pow Wow Hiway" that was part of the Genus Loci linkage done by a certain H Fraser -this is a total classic pitch and makes a great linkup from left side or fron genus-it goes up the grinning weasel until you can reach out to a face crack that is on the spine of the connecting rib going down to the pillar -this then finishes on the wee ledge just above the first curx on the sword -clip that nice bolt and back it up with a cam and hey presto you are set for the underfling-fwiw i am not sure there has EVER been a complete onsight or eeven linkup of the complete genus voyage to finish on the underfling and of course the free grand variation -worthy in my humble opinion.
Regarding the grinning weasel linkup into ten years after -a good one with 11 freeclimbing on the left side of the sword and then nailing to ten yrs after -i wimped out and put in a single bolt leaving the face crack and making the move over to ten yrs after -someone should chop it
g
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
Bumpin
dacooker

Sport climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 18, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
Where's the Lycra?
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