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crackedribs
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 1, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
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Was up there about 4 or 5 years ago and got on the off width pipeline 10+ pretty under prepared and with not the right size cams, got my ass kicked royally. I have been climbing ow since and feel more skilled. I was up there a couple of years ago and a guy said he was with Craig Lubben and Craig had climbed it the day before. Craig can you give me an assessment compared to all the other ow's you have climbed? I have a size 8 foot and could not for the life of me heel toe that crack, just too wide and that made it a thigh master killer, ouch.
anyways any feedback would be fun.
I am thinking I want to give it another shot this year.
Although this time I am bringing some #6's with me.
Bob
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Whats with all the Pipeline hype ? Not to be knocking Greg Cameron at all but, thats the Squaw not the Chief ...
Public Image in the North Walls has a significant overhanging OW section and much better position. Allow time to groove with nature on the Indica Point ledges at the top of the route before finishing up the North North Arete.
Of course I have only rapped it, on drugs, before the first ascent, to put in belay stations, Randy drilled a few 1/4 inch bolts on the wide section to assist with an otherwise impossible situation in failing light. So I don't remember much except it's steepness.
There is a considerale amount of stone below, not shown in this image. It's way off the deck up there. But you hike to the ledge system shown in the bottom of the photo as the start of the route.
The line is defined by the sun and shade demarkation in lower to mid section center of photo
First ascent: Dean Hart, Randy Aktinson - 1980 something
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Yeah, but Pipeline is what you stare at, way over there, for hour after hour, and it has that compelling FA story.
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Create your own story and memories on 4 pitches of Public Image, shown in profile here, pictured is full North North Arete. which is another completely underrated Squamish experience.
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MH2
climber
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Good point, Bruce, and what about Tall Skinny People?
edit: I guess that is included in the full N N Arete?
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Is that a route, or a commentary ? Sorry but I am so out of touch with Squamish. I am sure some of that route potential has been developed in that gully/arete area by now of which I have absolutely no awareness
Dean was pretty tall, and reasonably skinny at the time. I don't think Pub Image is as wide as Pipeline
Dean was wearing neoprene elbow supports alot in those days, but heel toe for size nine feet is possible I believe.
The big green Camelot would fit
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MH2
climber
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Tall Skinny People is a 10c chimney/squeeze arriving at the ledge to the left of where Public Image starts. They would make a good wide combination.
Pipeline is hard to miss close up, but from a distance which line stands out from the others?
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