Obscure - Elliot Robinson

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socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 28, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
So for a couple years Elliot has been climbing at my gym and our families hang out a bit here and there and occasionally we squeeze in some climbing time. Elliot has some great stories and has been around the climbing world from Yosemite to the Greater Ranges for a long time. A couple months back Elliot brought me a Ron Olevsky(sp?) homemade cam for our history case and it got me wondering wether anyone from around Supertopo has any memory or stories of Elliot from back in the day?

Charles
Edit: Not Ron Olevsky cam, a Rob Orvitz(sp?) cam
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
Is this Elliott Robinson, who was an undergrad at Stanford in the mid-1980s, and climbed quite a bit with Greg Murphy? A little later got his MSW at UC Berkeley? If so, Greg would have the best stories, and I recall they had some good adventures together.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 12:28am PT
Yep, that sounds like Elliot's resume. Elliot is becoming a bit of a role model for me, and in turn I keep him up to date on popular music so he can have good talks with his kid.

We had a great trip up shasta in september and we are plotting a east face of whitney/fishook arete climb.

Charles
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Apr 29, 2009 - 11:10am PT
Elliot and I had a good adventure doing the second ascent of Escape From Freedom (V 5.11+A0) on Mount Watkins. He started wandering up a 5.10b pitch where the bolts were too far apart to see, got off route and took a 50 footer, almost cratering on a dike. I was impressed, and amazed that he would push himself so hard that far above the pro! The rest of the climb went smoothly enough. It's good to hear about him after so long!
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Apr 29, 2009 - 01:02pm PT
Oh my goodness, where to start with the Elliott stories.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
Elliot talks about escape from freedom a bit, seems like a turning point for him in climbing. These days he boulders a lot, built a little wall in his backyard. One time though, I caught him top-roping in the gym and all he was using was a swami that I am pretty sure was made before I was born, true old-school.

Charles
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Apr 29, 2009 - 02:50pm PT
We did an early ascent of Power Point on Higher Cathedral. Elliott was into OW, so he gets the 5.11 OW pitch. At the big ledge before the OW, he eats a box of these grim jam-filled cookies and drinks a whole can of Mountain Dew. He gets up into the OW and starts heaving and vomit spray is raining down on me at the base. Nevertheless, he styles the pitch. I get up there and have to arm bar and squirm through the crux with my chest pasted to this section of rock covered with his regurgitated snack.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Apr 29, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
I knew Elliot when we were at Stanford together, we would boulder together occasionally. He was a very good climber. A good friend of Bob Palais also if I recall correctly. Please give Elliot my regards--it would be great to hear what he's up to.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 29, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
Great laugh, Greg! I thought one of those Elliott hurling stories might "resurface". :-)

One thing I remember is when I lent Elliott my old 280Z so he and Greg could get to the Valley. I had to make him a long list of what was wrong with the car and how to work around it (like how the key did not work in the doors and you had to go in via the hatchback, the headlights worked only on bright, etc. ...). They had a great adventure of course and the car made it back unscathed too.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
anyone have any pics? I tease Elliot regularly about how he climbed before cameras, but even on shasta with two cameras over two days we took a whopping 4 pics.

Charles
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Apr 29, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
I have an Elliot tale but there's no vomiting involved.

I forget how we hooked up but Elliot, Dan Hershman & myself did Blind Faith together. As mentioned above, Elliot was way into wide cracks, and he wanted the crux OW pitch & said it was OK if Dan & I led the rest of the route. I led the 5.11D finger/thin hands pitch & found it about right at the grade. Difficult 1-1/8 jamming got me to the belay.

Above, lay 4 pitches of OW climbing, 5.10 B, 5.11A, 5.10D & the 5.10A exit pitch shared by the regular Rostrum North Face route.
Dan led the 5.10B pitch easily, and because we had combined gear racks with Elliot, we had lots of big cams for all the OW pitches & the anchors for the 2nd pitch. Elliot styled the OW pitch, and was quickly at the little proud perch, also shared with Rostrum N.F. (1 pitch below the roof). Hershman led the 5.10D flare/OW pitch and I took the last easy one to finish.

Somewhere I have a photo of Elliot hiking down the approach gully with our combined OW rack. We had about 8 to 10 cams up to 8", and Elliot looked like some kind of gnome of the forrest. He was fun to climb with. I saw him a few times afterwards but we never managed to climb together again. I hope he is well.
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Apr 29, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
The first time I drove to the Valley with Elliott in his old Rabbit, we were rounding a corner and this huge rooster-tale of sparks came shooting out from his rear tires. I about flipped but he calmly noted that all the tires were worn down to the steel belts. Every time we hit a corner the steel belts sparked off the pavement. I was glad it was winter; I could imnagine a string of fires in the dry grass along every coner on 120. No brakes, no insurance, cracked windshield, etc.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
Elliot has fairly mastered the art of looking like a forest gnome/ battle dwarf, the comment, "we are very powerful over short distances" is right up Elliot's alley. He boulders hard. Though he can push hard in alpine. Geared up for Shasta with poles and ax and skis he looked formidable.

We have a kid who used to work at the gym and now just climbs and works out of Fresno, but anyway, Elliot knows this guys dad and one day they ran into each other at the gym. After talking Kevin walks up to me and says, "My dad says he knew this climber guy...I thought it was some random dude, I didn't realize he was a legend!"

Charles
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
bump to front page

Charles
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Apr 30, 2009 - 12:39pm PT
yo, i knew elliot back in the day. he would purposedly seek out totally obscure routes to do early repeats on. one time he went up on the flue on sentinel, don't know if he summited, but he was into adventure...that's for sure. ciao, shipoopoi
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Apr 30, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
i climbed with elliot a few times and shared many a beers in the parking lot with him.
super good guy and always motivated.
ks
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
so I finally got Elliot to log on and read this thread, he laughed heartedly. He wants to re-connect with some of the people on this forum and I am trying to get him to just sign up and start lurking but for right now the big question he has is who is "Levy"?

post up and I will have him read it. he mentioned something about a bad memory due to something so he may not fully recall all his adventures. He did start to say something about rappeling in a blizzard, I want to hear more about that if anyone can summon that story

Charles
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 30, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
Levy = Bill Leventhal

rapping into a blizzard - that might have been when Greg and Elliott did the Kor-Beck in a snowstorm.
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Apr 30, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
We actually rappelled in a blizzard more than once in Yosemite. The most epic was on the Kor-Beck. We climbed through a snowstorm (freeing everything!) until we got to this short slab at the U-shaped bowl I think. We couldn't do the slab moves, so Elliott starts making snowballs, pasting them to the slab, and trying to stand up on them. He got a one or two snowball moves up and would slide down when they failed. We started rapping at that point with avalanches sloughing off to either side of us.

After that, we actually practiced the snowball technique on slabby boulders just in case.
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 1, 2009 - 01:16am PT
Well I suppose I could chime in with memories too...but there's still some fog left over from the Reagan-Bush years and way too many wild adventures.

Charles, thanks for twisting my arm to log into this forum. It brings back many great times, friends and general wildness of life. Back in the day I never would have guessed that I'd spend middle age as a staid county bureaucrat.

Levy, I looked in my old guide to figure out Blind Faith and with Clint's post the fog lifted a bit...the off fingers first pitch though sticks...I did my best to make an off fingers on my backyard cliff. I love the experience of lifting clouds.

Clint, are you at Stanford these days?

Deuce, it wasn't too many years back that I finally tossed the ancient green North Face polarguard sleeping bag I got from as you were packing out of Stanford.

Steve, still dream of beating you at Scrabble...no that'd be way too much of a long shot...So on the Flue, Steve Annecone and I summited, but didn't free a 5-10 foot section of crack that didn't look too dicey...but the rain stumped us. My favorite obscure lines though were East Arrowhead Chimney and Chockstone Chimney. Never found the Inconsolable Buttress.

Kurt, still think of jamming through the park with the B-52s and Talking Heads blasting. Did my best to remember the High Profile Knobs when stuccoing my backyard not quite real cliff. I looked at Reach for a Peach last summer on a rare trip to the Meadows...WTF.

Greg-man one of these days you, Annie, Peter and Alex have to stop by Prunedale. Heck, come on a monster hike across the Santa Lucia's we can get 10,000 feet of uphill in and more poison oak and ticks than you can shake a stick at. I promise no heaving. BTW I would do almost anything to stand in the Gunsight by the light of a headlamp during a blizzard and watch the snow blow straight up the face of Middle Cathedral.
E
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 1, 2009 - 01:20am PT
Urmas, how the heck are you...looks like you're still on the East Side...still have a topo of Mt Morrison you gave me. Escape from Freedom was a blast...damn the silverfish sh#t, but it kept it interesting.
E
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 1, 2009 - 01:30am PT
Elliott, I'm still living in Palo Alto. The 280Z is long gone, but I have another dubious vehicle to keep things interesting.
You probably know that Steve Annecone is in Boulder, and Wayne is in Amherst MA, and Bob in Salt Lake City.
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 1, 2009 - 01:40am PT
Clint, I stay in touch with Bob and Steve...but haven't heard news from Wayne in ages. How's he doing?
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
May 1, 2009 - 10:50am PT
Elliot, I still haven't done Morrison. C'mon over and we'll do it some time!
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
May 1, 2009 - 11:56am PT
Morrison in winter was very high on Elliott's tick list. I finally did it 2 summers ago. Excellent in a loose, chossy, spontaneous rockfall sort of way. Maybe in winter all that loose stuff would be frozen together, sort of the Eiger of the east side.
Alan McEwen

Trad climber
Boston, MA
May 1, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
Times with Elliot usually involved bushwacking. Those where the good days! I have slides I will have to dig out to bring back my memory.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 1, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
Elliott,

Wayne is doing great. He's married with 4 cute kids (hope I got the count right!) and is a professor. He gets out here occasionally and still floats up climbs.



Alan,

Wow, another person from those years - cool! I hope you are doing well. Of course I will always remember that story about the trypsin/tryptophan. :-)
pkallmes

Trad climber
berkeley
May 1, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
As everyone notes, it's hard to know where to begin. I think fondly of an illegal bivy that Elliot, Homey, Tarek and I did by the Hetch-Hetchy gate. In the morning we were roused by two gun-toting types, one a ranger and one apparently an over-caffeinated bounty hunter. A ranger had been shot by a poacher a few days earlier so they were all on high alert. They saw Homey and me first and flushed us out at gun-point. Elliot and Tarek, slightly uphill, saw what was happening and did the natural thing - crouched quietly behind a tree and hoped they wouldn't be seen - but we outed them. They called out "Don't shoot, we're just making poached eggs up here - d'oh!" and came down and surrendered peacefully. They let us go but I can still see that guy's nervous index finger too close to the trigger. To top off the weekend, Elliot dragged poor Tarek up Tenaya Canyon for a once-in-a-lifetime thrashing. I bet he's still nursing the wounds. All in all, a most Robinsonian time was had by all.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 05:16pm PT
This is excellent. I feel truly lucky to get to climb with Elliot. His overland Santa lucia hike is no joke, we are waiting for fire restrictions to be lifted and then, off we go!

Charles
Alan McEwen

Trad climber
Boston, MA
May 1, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
Tenaya Canyan; Yosemite to Toulumne! I think we got ticks and scratches. Bacchus came to keep the bears away.
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA
May 1, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
Hi everyone. After lurking on ST for a long time,
I guess this is a good occasion to sign up.

My most vivid memory of Elliott (I can hear him
saying " with two "l"s and two "t"s ") was on the Crucifix
in about 1985.
It was a very challenging route for both of us,
even back when it had the A1 section. I remember
belaying in the wideness off of our only 3.5 and 4
Friends, and then hearing a call out from the left.
It was Werner soloing the NE Buttress. He said,
"you guys look bitchin...". I almost peed my pants.
Of course, he looked pretty cool himself, bareback
only wearing Fires and white Gramicci pants.
Farther up the climb, we just eked out the last 5.11
pitches, totally wasted on the top.
It was a great time, done in an old long-hard-free style
swinging leads with a small backpack on a haul line.
25 years later, I am looking at that same pack and I think
some of the abrasions are from getting
wedged in the Crucifix that day.

Clint: thanks for the kind words and photo, although this
is supposed to be Elliott's thread, right? You are always
such a voice of clarity and reason on the ST. Your meticulous, scholarly approach to the climbing lore is great fun and much
appreciated.

Looking forward to hearing from others as well.

-wayne burleson@ecs.umass.edu
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
elliott is here at the gym right now talking, thank you to everyone who has chimed in so far, the man has a ton of stories.

Charles

Post pics if you got them!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 2, 2009 - 02:06am PT
Wayne! Great story, man - thanks for sharing!
I can visualize all three of you guys up there, living it up!
HJ

climber
Bozeman, Montana
May 2, 2009 - 12:21pm PT
Hi Elliott, and Hi to Wayne, too. I'm pretty sure I have pictures of both of you from BITD. It might take a couple days to find them, but that is my threat.
Weekend Warrior

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
May 2, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
Here are some of the stories I remember.

A-man: I led the 2nd and belayed at the base of the Enduro Corner. Shortly after he arrived, Elliot and breakfast parted company. I don't remember the contents, but, unlike Greg, didn't have to wade through it.

Freestone #1: it's Thanksgiving weekend and Elliot wants to do The Rostrum. After waiting around most of the morning for it to warm up, I persuaded him to go elsewhere. We hike the Falls Trail, cross the creek and arrive at the base around 1pm. We figure to run up the 1st four pitches. The 1st is much harder than the map lets on and the 2nd and 3rd are a bit hair-raising, so progress isn't as quick as we'd hoped. Faced with some or all of climbing/rapping/descending in the dark sans headlamps (WDNNSH), we bail

Freestone #2: it's spring; the days are long and the forecast good. We get a reasonably early start, 3rd class the 5.0 route on Sunnyside Bench and thrash up to the base. After two pitches, it starts to rain. Down we go.

Freestone #3: it's Thanksgiving again. We start much earlier than our 1st attempt and arrive at the base to find the 1st 10' of the route coated with verglas. I never did do this route. I'm not sure if Elliot ever did.

Addition to the Kor-Beck Saga: Elliot told me that Werner came up to him later in the Lounge (or some such) and said: You guys are crazy!

Must have had a clear conscience department: My 1st car was a '80 Rabbit. While I don't remember the context, I do remember Elliot sleeping on the floor in front of the passenger-side front seat.

Must have been separated at birth: does anyone else think that E. Robinson and E. Zschiesche were related?

Thanks for the memories, Elliot!
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 2, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
This is a veritable memory lane of friends...to cool.

Wayne - nice to hear from you. 4 kids...that's a lot of chauffering. My daughter just got her learner's permit...talk about loose run-out pitches...still have fond memories of the shed at Waverly house...speaking of which...I went to see a stage vesion of Harold and Maude and they cited Maude's address which turned out to be essentially that of the shed (that is if it had an address different from the house)...gave me an existential moment...so Clint say's you're still floating up climbs, was that the 3rd Pillar fo Dana? My route recognition skills are weak.

Alan - I've been realizing my bushwhack dreams these days in the mountains between the Salinas Valley and Big Sur...makes the worst brush of the Sierra's seem mild...though I never did do the walk from the Rim of the World down to the Tuolumne...spent one day and night a few years back making a b-line from peak to valley in the Santa Lucia's...one 2 mile section of miscellaneous brush and clifflets took about 4 four hours of crawling, whimpering, and tick flicking. At least there are no big rocks to fall on your head or consequences from spontaneous pitches. How are Bonnie and the kids?

Paul - Are you in Sacto May 14th? This time I promise I will "just say no" ala Nancy Reagan to any evening work events. PS heard on NPR the other week a piece on David Arnold's retake of Washhburn photos - relly cool photos at http://www.doublexposure.net...I'm sure you've seen them. Reminded me of how the gone toting rangers looked through your Washburn portfolio we left on the car hood, but still thought we'd be out poaching eggs - assault rifles drawn and all.

Clint - how did you become the master Yosemite chronicler, pretty cool.

Anyway...too much fun...I need to go install better electricity on my backyard wall so I can boulder with tunes.


E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 2, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
Charles, dug up some old photos -
Greg on the Kor-Beck with snow


Greg on the Rabbit with hot wheels the day after the Kor-Beck when the snow began to melt


Bob buildering at Stanford


Steve Annecone on the Flue


Urmas and I on our way to Escape from Freedom


Urmas on Escape from Freedom


After my fall on Escape from Freedom


My 'bro Zseiche in JT (where's Eric today???)


Anyone know what happened to Chuck Wheeler?


Or Dave Caunt?


Brian Cox topping out on something in Red Rocks...Brian remember pawing through sand on the last pitches of Levitation 29...egad!


Bill Myers and HJ after topping out on the 3rd Teton of the day


Wayne on something in Tahoe


Urmas on an awesome fist crack at Olmstead Point


Squeeze Chimney bouldering at Olmstead Point


Greg on Qtr Dome


Me looking for something to cheer Greg up


Greg and Pete Carrick on the Dana Couloir


Anatoly Boukreev on Pik Kommsomolkaya


Bob Palais and I on Pik Kommsomolskaya (and I am eternally embarrased that this was also my honeymoon...Carol is awesome)


Tarek on top of Pywiak Falls after Tenaya Canyon...still on our way to Cloud's Rest and back to Happy Isle


Clouds Rest - the good view


What I'm up to today - my backyard fake cliff
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 3, 2009 - 01:46am PT
Hi Elliot-

Chuck's doing very well--he came to my wedding a few years back. He's still working in Phoenix--I'm sure he'd love to hear from you. His email is cwheeler precisionpowerlabs.com

Good to hear from you! I don't remember the sleeping bag, but I do remember all those fine builder problems on the Stanford walls!

ps I posted your picture of Chief Tenaya years ago on this forum:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=531416&msg=531486#msg531486

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 3, 2009 - 02:14am PT
Elliott,

Dave Caunt is in Chico and posted here a couple of weeks ago:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=819474&msg=835265#msg835265
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 3, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
Elliott,

Wayne scanned a few slides, but was not sure how to post them, so here you go:


Elliott on Crucifix c. 1985


Wayne and Elliott on Crucifix summit


Elliott at Mazzones
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
I think elliot may still be using that chalk bag from the last pic.

Charles
HJ

climber
Bozeman, Montana
May 4, 2009 - 07:04pm PT

Elliott in 1984 bouldering in JT


Wayne in 1985 on the Salathe
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA
May 5, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
These photos remind me of Elliott's trademark habit of smearing chalk all over his thighs and buttocks prior to attempting a hard move. Presumably providing a reservoir for later quick access... or maybe just getting into costume..

socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
Sharma does something similar, maybe he got it from Elliott?

Charles
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 5, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
Hi Wayne-

John Middendorf here, from the old bay area days. How are you doing? Still climbing, married, kids?

We'll be on the east coast this summer, in Rhode Island, perhaps we could meet at the Quarries or maybe Lincoln Park for some clambering?
Weekend Warrior

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
May 6, 2009 - 12:00am PT
Yeah, Elliot, I remember the top of Levitation 29: to go with the sand, it was none too warm. At least we got down in available light. Do you remember our bivy on the descent from Mescalito after another crack o' noon start?
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
May 6, 2009 - 12:22am PT
Elliott always had an eye for the obscure, and clearly still does. Bushwacking, wide stuff, night climbing, winter, rain, etc. One time we drove up from the Bay Area, and did the night time approach to the Sunshine Buttress up near the Porcelain Wall Half Dome area). We cramponed up perfect styrofoam snow to a killer bivvy in a natural snow cave at the base of our proposed new route, arriving probably around 1 or 2 am. The next morning we headed up and climbed some wild features to the rim at 5.10 or so with general funk all the way. Rapping at night, naturally, the final rap landed us in the snow cave for another excellent bivvy. Elliott called the route "Cold Rain and Snow"
Awesome. Other to the rim in a day new routes included Vegemite,Wind Chill,etc.

Greg
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 6, 2009 - 04:43am PT
Since this is still going, here are some more photo's I dug up...some are just fun -

Wayne at Mazones


Brian, I'm guessing this Mescalito...the climb that taught me to always pack fire and headlamps...


A crew buildering at Stanford (Bill Myers, Scott Cosgrove, Wendy Hawthorne, Bob Palais, and ?)


Eric Doub after bushwhacking our way up Wheeler Crest...when we got to the Buttermilks that night the engine block on Eric's big blue boat (we dubbed Marlboro for the clouds of smoke that enveloped the car every time we stoppped) caught fire. Too much fun with cars.


Greg on our attempt to do Half Dome in winter, the next day I realized I was probably more of a bureaucrat than a climber...Walt Shipley blasted past us as Greg and I went down because I had to finish some paperwork...alas.


Foxtails in my socks on the cross the Santa Lucia hike


The view looking back at over the Santa Lucia trek (it starts on the other side of the mountain)


Burning Bush and Fire Extinguisher - Santa Katarine - Sinai


Michael tests out the equipment in Bodie


Everyone needs a purple suit


The mantle by Stem Jam in JT


Pete Carrick in Pinnacles


Zamir Kudashev on top of Khan Tengri


Looking down at the other party that summitted Khan Tengri that day



This is all so much fun, now I want to find the Inconsolable Buttress, climb it and add in a nighttime descent just for kicks. Maybe another tiem up Wild Thing would be fun too.
E
fosburg

climber
May 6, 2009 - 09:48am PT
Gotta chime in here. I was with Walt that day on Half Dome. How surreal to get to the base with snow coming down and hear voices on the wall! And that haulbag in the photo must be the one that came sailing down about 10 ft. away from us. A very memorable day!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 6, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
Incoming haul bag - yikes! (Just when you thought nobody else could be there...).

Elliott - definitely some great photos in there. Especially the kids at Bodie - they have that wild-eyed grin that I remember from this guy back 25 years ago.... :-)

Buildering photo! I see 6 people - one person in black/white on the hard doorway on the left, Bob third from left, Scott on far right.

Great photo of Pete at Pinnacles - I think that is on the Hatchet.

Have you seen the supertopo thread on the "Obscurity Scale"?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=42866

Here is my more formatted/revised version:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/obscurity_scale.txt
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2009 - 06:00pm PT
another bump to the front page in lieu of politiks

Charles
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
May 7, 2009 - 12:57am PT
Kevin:
The haul bag was pretty light - mostly sleeping bags and pads. Elliott was definitely the inspirations when I did Half Dome in winter a year or two later with Alan McEwen.

I don't know how this worked, but Elliott could basically get me to do anything. When I first hooked up with him I was just starting to climb and all I wanted to do was sunny classic finger cracks. I would tell him on the drive up that this time we were doing classics and he would just smile in his evasive Elliott way. So, I'd be up at 5am amped and pacing around drinking coffee trying to get him going. He'd finally get rolling, he would likely head to "the ledge" and we'd be climbing maybe by noon on some obscure route that was only in the old Roper guide, vegetated, loose, ect. Nevertheless, we always had a blast.
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 7, 2009 - 01:36am PT
Aaaah the ledge...it always worked wonders to get the imagination working on burly, pointless events that the only way to really appreciate was to have gone through them and listen to people wonder why...

I always try to keep in mind (even during strategic planning meetings) that if your not too concerned about where you are you're never lost and it's always amazing. Greg, so has there ever been a second on Vegemite?

A new point of pure joy is the discovery of a giant cloud towards the center of the Milky Way that tastes of strawberries and smells like rum...I guess it's time to go on a long walk off trail multi-peak walk again...I've been completely useless at work since bushwhacking my way through the latest round of budget planning.

And ditto the apologies on the haul bag...especially for such a lame reason...nowadays I have more paperwork than I know what to do with...should have topped out on Half Dome instead...but you and Walt were awesome and moving fast.
E

E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
May 7, 2009 - 02:12am PT
Clint thanks for the obscurity link...I love it! GRE got a post earlier today how much fun is that! Did I ever tell you that I thought the Ho Chi Minh trail was a blast...Greg and I did that at some point.
Weekend Warrior

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
May 10, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
E, you and I seemed to have learned the same lesson from Mescalito (and what a nice fire we could've had if only we'd brought something or striking sandstone rocks together produced some real sparks). But if we'd started earlier than ~1pm or bothered to check the 1st ascent team (R.Harrison,J.Long,L.Hill in case you've forgotten or never knew) when we were telling ourselves "it's a grade 4 but there's only 1 5.10 pitch" we might have done something more sensible and the valuable lesson wouldn't have been learned (at least, at that time). However, I think that one of the common themes amongst all the words and pictures in this blast-from-the-past is that what is sensible is a matter of time, place and company. B
Bob Palais

Trad climber
UT
May 15, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
Greetings gang! Got a nice call from Elliott who clued me into this thread. I'm enjoying the classic photos already up here, and will try to scan a few of my own! I'd actually just got back from a little road trip to see the Dead with Mark Sonnenfeld and Micah Goodman in Denver. The two previous nights we stayed with Jimmie Dunn (Co. Springs) and Jeff Achey (New Castle, near Rifle on the drive out), so visits to three pre-college friends in three days. Long ago, Oct. 1982,after shows at Stanford we'd stay the night with friends in Palo Alto - Elliott, Deucy, Wayne and probably some others on the thread (BTW we had dinner with Deucy's brother Roxy a couple weeks ago when he came to Snowbird before his exhibit on the roof of the Met opened: http://www.metmuseum.org/special/se_event.asp?OccurrenceId={6267CA47-491B-4776-A468-0673F8362B0F}
He said you're in Tasmania John?)

Summer 1981, Cambridge, MA, I spy someone casually sending a Harvard Yard mantel - a campus testpiece from the `Bouldering Boston By Bus' guidebook (Did you produce that Clint?) That was how I met Elliott Robinson from Cleveland, who was doing a summer chemistry program. We got to some local areas that summer, and the next spring I got a call for advice: "Should I go to Harvard or Stanford? There's only one factor: Which has the best climbing?" I admitted a bias that it would be great to have him out in California. The next fall, '82, Elliott and I headed up to the Valley with Chris Grover, John Middendorf and Chuck Wheeler, and through the years, with many of the others who have posted here - Steve Annecone, Wayne Burleson, Alan McEwen, Greg Murphy., Eric Doub, Bill Myers., ... - it would be fun to trace the climbing genealogy, kind of like the diagrams of the various Garcia collaborations.

Any Robinson residence is always festive, from Toyon at Stanford, the Haight in SF, the house we shared on Walnut in Berkeley (Greg Murphy too for a while), Vermont St., Lake Merritt. He took me to home turf in Ohio once, Squaw Rock, and enjoyed the hospitality and company of his folks and brothers Zach an Ben, all longtime academics and progressive activists. Elliott has always been a catalyst for adventure and making the impossible seem, and become possible. I guess that's why he is so indispensable in the California budgetary process. He's always there to support his friends (and those who will become his friends) when they are in need, and has provided the inspiration for many crazy and beneficial projects. A lesser known tidbit about Elliott C. Robinson. He's an amazing and original artist. I treasure his collection of drawings `The World Is A Wild Place' . On the mantlepiece is the dancer `Grace' that he concocted from a branch and plastic shopping bag salvaged from the Donner Summit roadside. (This was when Elliott, Carol, and Chris Breemer drove to Utah to help me move!) During their honeymoon in Kazakhstan, the night before I split off to the Caucasus, Carol was beginning to wonder if they'd get ANY together time, what with all Soviet accommodations at the time being, well, communal. They were having an animated discussion whether the Muir trail would have been a better idea. It got late so they switched to American Sign Language. (They'd both used it where they met while working with children with autism.) It was a great lesson on how expressive ASL is!

Many adventures stand out - Wild Thing: finishing some insecure wide moves to the belay on the second to last pitch only to discover that Elliott in the squeeze WAS our belay anchor. Lost Arrow chimney: Clint and Nancy and Joel I think all came up to provide the escape rope to the rim. I couldn't follow Elliott through the Harding Hole and had to go around. It sounded tight even for him! Half Dome NW in a day: I'll scan some pics. The crux for Elliott was deep manzanita forest near the top of the approach slabs. I'd gone to the right and observed the rustling as he heroically fought his way through. We passed 13 people by the fourth pitch. When we crossed Thank God ledge, the highest group was reaching pitch 6 (we weren't that fast, they were slow). About then I snapped the last photo of Elliott's chalkbag, made by Kristen Laine. Kristen was at Microsoft at the beginning, and a good friend of Bill's as well. She later played a key role in the Salt Lake Tibetan Refugee Resettlement! Mt. Langille, Rowell-Wilson route, EBGBs, the Space Station, and many other routes in JTree, . If Anatoli were here, he'd tell about the East Buttress of El Cap in wild weather. The Valley with the Cal Folsom, RD Caughron, Rusty, and the Russians, Ivan, Seriogia, Svyeta, Igor, et. al, with a group ascent of Snake Dike. Numerous marathons through the Marin Headlands, the Berkeley hills, or above Jack Robbins and Cynthia's house. Elliott and Carol sharing new adventures with Ashley and Michael.

I guess it's pretty obvious that Elliott has been a major and always positive influence and the epitome of a true great friend for most of my life at this point! It's great to see these pages with similar impressions from so many others!
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 15, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
cool memories from the way back machine!
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2009 - 12:07am PT
bump a cool thread of memories for a week where we need it

Charles
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
Jul 8, 2009 - 12:23am PT
And Obscurities!
I love those.....
Emon

Trad climber
Mar 22, 2010 - 07:30pm PT
bump
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
Was at Elliott's on Sunday for donuts and bouldering, twas a great time! Discussed plans for an artificial off-width....here is one of the shots:

Credit: socialclimber

Charles
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2010 - 12:13am PT
bump.
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
Mar 25, 2010 - 11:13am PT
My buddy's looking quite healthy
Queener

Mountain climber
Fresno / Monterey/Reedley, CA
Jun 8, 2010 - 05:31pm PT
Damn... I should have found a read this thread before I ever went into the Santa Lucias with Elliot... But any indication of Mr. Robinson and his previous antics may have led me to visualize a much grander adventure than the one that occurred in May 2010. I'll have to say that hiking from the Salinas Valley to the Big Sur coast was no easy task. With the few miles of belly crawls, tick swatting, personal misuse of bear mace, extreme poison-oak navigating and the endurance needed to travel continuously for 35 hours I still have say I had quite a pleasant time and had my first enjoyable outdoor bathroom experience in high winds.

I would conclude that any more information about Mr. Robinson may steer me away from future outings and a high distrust for what he may deem a "good idea". Hell, I'm only 22, I don't need this shi!t, but Elliot has a sick way of making it enjoyable. Now I just need to convince him that the East Face of Whitney and Fish hook Arete is an achievable task that could result in less exposure to poison oak and belling crawl bush-whacking!

-KY
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
Jun 9, 2010 - 03:02pm PT
Bushwhacking through the Santa Lucia's always makes budget hearings so much more relaxing for me. (Yes, I'm sitting through one right now and doing my best to be alert.) Nothing like crawling through a thicket for a few hours to give you some perspective. Looking forward to tooling around Shasta this weekend with my buddy Jack who must be 86 by now. Woohoo.
E
Queener

Mountain climber
Fresno / Monterey/Reedley, CA
Jun 9, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
Santa Lucia trail is something I think is doable in 24 hrs. including summits of junipera serra and cone peak. It's haunting that I would consider doing it again just to get a faster time. If all the navigation goes smoothly and I don't have a personal misuse of bear mace, I think it could be done.

Good god, what have you done to me?
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Pretty cool this got bumped, Elliott is on his way to climb Mt. Clark right now, wish him warmth and speed.

Charles
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Nov 9, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
Nice timing for a run at Clark. The weather is perfect. Holding you to an elaborate TR when you get back E.
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
Nov 14, 2013 - 02:08am PT
Mt Clark was good fun, perfect conditions...a trip report though...hmmm...not sure I can recreate the playlist...I'll tell you though it was prestty cool making my way through Little Yosemite Valley blasting Beethoven's 9th followed by the Sertab Erener cover of Dylan's One More Cup of Coffee.
Credit: E Robinson
Credit: E Robinson
Credit: E Robinson
Credit: E Robinson
Credit: E Robinson
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