Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 27, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
Was just out there yesterday, hiking back from the Lost Pencil area and stopped at Slashface. Though I'm not certain (lots of chalk), it looks as though the first few moves (on the rounded horizontal rills) have been subtly enhanced, made flatter, the rock behind the holds chiseled with a pin (or something) to make extra room for the digits.
Again, I'm not positive about this enhancement- you'd have to wash off the face and inspect it closely to know for sure - but if so this is a shame, for Slashface is really one of the great, relatively easy (V3) highballs in the US.
Having only encountered chipped or glued holds in areas of the Santa Monica Mtns. where I knew ahead of time the rock had been 'enhanced', I am not sure I could ID a chipped or sculpted hold elsewhere.
What are the more obvious signs the rock has been altered? Anyone have any pics of this dastardly deed?
Sheer curiosity on my part...
Bad news about Slashface if indeed it has been doctored, sad news indeed.
Largo, any good stories from the Lost Pencil?? I was pulling out of Santanas sunday morning trying to reverse the damage done saturday night, and saw you headed east, caused me to ponder for a moment and wonder if you were looking for the Boom Boom Room ?? Bummer on Slashface if true.
glued, chiseled, holds or any other such molestation of a route is unheard of here. It's so wrong I can't imagine someone even conceiving the idea. Not to mention I think the culprit would be hunted down and dealt with around these parts. The vast majority of our climbs look easy but are difficult because the holds are sloppers, facing the wrong way or just very shallow. All could be made easier with a little modification but I don't think that will ever happen.
Personally I think the speculation is off the mark. I've done the problem many times (granted all in the last 3 years) and as recently as a month ago. Feels the same to me as it ever did and I can't see anything indicative of more than normal wear from hands and feet, certainly nothing that looks like chipping or similar.
Hang on now Medusa!! Reads as if you saying BG is doing some enhancing of holds. Sounds like you're specifically referencing Boulderado. I've done the pitch, and would be curious as to what you think is "enhanced".
Also, I can tell you from multiple experiences (my own as well as others) that BG is one of the few stances drillers left in Josh. I personally can't guarantee that he never raps it in, but Boulderado isn't hard enough for him rap bolt.