Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
Ellis road (main road) never opens until late May to early June.
With all the snow this year I'd suspect it will be closed until early to mid June. Panther Creek rd will probably open several weeks before Ellis. I'd start watching for the road to open sometime around the second week in May.
Cal Domes is probably high and dry by now. Or at least drying out quickly.
|
|
mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
|
Still wet and snowy at the top of Cal Dome- will be for a couple of weeks..
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
I think the place has really kept it's flavor Ron. I know Cottrell and friends rap bolted the sh#t out of the place years back, but most of those routes even seem to keep a bit of that spicy flavor... bolts where you need em' not want em' sort of thing. Accept for he all out retro bolting of Bonsai for a "free" ascent, it's still a place where you go to accomplish a goal, not practice.
Set the Controls is one of the most striking face climbs around. As for it's popularity, yeah way under rated. As for it's grade, can't say. When I climbed it the only thing I was thinking about was maintaining static movement. I got so focused I almost skipped a bolt at the crux.
|
|
j-tree
Big Wall climber
bay area, ca
|
|
Ares there still any heads up aid lines up the dome, or was Bonsai the jewel in the crown?
|
|
jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
|
This is wonderful.
It is my dream to someday author a Supertopo climbing-related thread that reaches 100 posts. Keep it coming! :)
(50 post mark)
|
|
mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
|
Ron wich "Fox" did you free it with?
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
|
|
Climbed Green Sponge a year or two ago. Still a bit dirty but the crux is clean and way exposed. Good route, thought it was like 5.10c maybe d at most.
Variation to Sea of Holes? You're not talking about Stone Heart (.10a/b) are you??? Just to the right of Sea of Holes 1st pitch.
|
|
mcreel
climber
Barcelona
|
|
Sea of Holes... One of my first 10a face leads, and it was a little spicy. The next day, one of the guys I learned to climb from whipped on it and burned a big hole in his pants. I felt like Grasshopper: it was time for me to go.
OK, let's have some stories and get this thread to the 100 post count. I still have one or 2 Cal Dome stories.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
> Ares there still any heads up aid lines up the dome, or was Bonsai the jewel in the crown?
130. The Great Gig in the Sky p4? A2?
62. Banzai V 5.10 A3
59. King of Fools 5.8 A4
65. War Lord (full) 5.10b A4
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
So has anyone following this thread come in the long way on tiger road? Does 2 hours of bouncing on a dirt road sound about right? I've seen several references to this being a 4WD road. Is this just a matter of clearance or will I be hating it n a 2WD truck?
|
|
Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
|
|
August ... the Tiger Road is maybe only 1 hour of bouncing down a dirt road but it feels like 2 hours. 4WD is not necessary.
|
|
sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
|
|
My first multipitch experiences.
Real.
me and my buddy Jim had the place to ourselves.
awoke one morning to two juvi bobcats playing in the bluffs nearby.
Special experience for me, planted the seed for climbing adventures to come.
That was 15 years ago... doubt the area has changed much.
Always wanted to go back.... and finish ... "wall of the worlds?"
A.
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
August ... the Tiger Road is maybe only 1 hour of bouncing down a dirt road but it feels like 2 hours. 4WD is not necessary.
Thanks!
|
|
August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
|
So from the time I left hyw 88, it took me 90 minutes to get to the dome at a not terribly blazing speed. High clearance is not needed at all. There was one pretty soft, muddy spot right where panther road comes in. It was downhill on the way in and, annoyingly, uphill on the way out. Didn't have any major problems, but it would have been a little stressful driving in without chains. It is probably already even more dried out and less of a problem by now then when I drove it. But a note to anyone reading this for some future winter trip, if it has been wet and you only have 2WD, having chains in the car might be nice.
The main dome was wet, although less snow on top then I expected. The approach slabs are very snowy. The south facing climbs on the north side of the river were great. Checked out some of the cliffs to the west of Hammer dome.
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
|
Is't there some kind of mythical monster around Calaveras Dome? I thought I read about some kind of Bogfoot or something that was scaring the poop out of climbers camped in that area.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!