Woah, Calaveras Dome looks sweet!

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jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 25, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
I just noticed a few of these routes in the Beta section. This whole area has always been off my radar for some reason.

No longer! Come, my fellow gumbies, let's swarm this place like it's the Nutcracker ledge. Next weekend anybody?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 26, 2009 - 12:09am PT
Justin,

You can read more about it here:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/caldomes/index.htm
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2009 - 12:30am PT
Thanks, Clint. I should have thought to check your website. :) Maybe I'll go poking around there next weekend if the weather is good. Do you think it's melted out enough right now?

 Justin
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Apr 26, 2009 - 01:38am PT
It's a....... Mad World
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Apr 26, 2009 - 07:55am PT
Ellis Rd is still closed for snow, as of yesterday. We went in from Buckhorn Village.

Nice down in the canyon. Its at about 3000 so it gets HOT down in there in summer.

Brutus recently reposted a Cal Dome aid route TR on summitpost... here:

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=44888

We were admiring that route yesterday from the cozy comfort of Hammer Dome.

DMT
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 26, 2009 - 11:27am PT
Justin,

I haven't gone there in early season, so I don't know how much Calavaras Dome is affected by snowmelt from the top. I've always gone in via Ellis Road. Some friends are planning a weekend there later in May if you are interested. Of course you can go there anytime, but it would be nice to have dry conditions on the shady side.
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Apr 26, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
Lots of water streaks persist on Cal Dome proper. Some routes appeared deasible from a distance though. War of the Walls up to the slabby part looked OK. Hidden Dome at least appeared dry.

Hammer Done had one streak we could see, coming out of the Wings Stings roof.

DMT
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
Thanks Dingus and Clint. Maybe I'll wait a bit before heading out there.
Lisa Apprill

Trad climber
Cincinnati
Apr 28, 2009 - 12:06am PT
Can anyone help me with driving directions since Ellis is closed? I'm trying to figure things out from this link: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/caldomes/roadmap.gif

I'd be grateful for any info.
Chris2

Trad climber
Apr 28, 2009 - 06:26am PT
If it is your first time, don't try the drive down in the dark.












It can be confusing!
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Apr 28, 2009 - 06:33am PT
At Buckhorn Village, as you drive UP the hill on Hwy 88 from Jackson there is a small grocery store. Just after this is a paved right hand turn, going down hill immediately. This road goes through a wooded residental area. Keep following it down hill - avoid any turns onto other streets, esp. a street that heads up hill.

Go down that road till you get to the river. Just before you get to the 'water works' (the purpose of all these roads is access to the dams, penstocks, generation plants, etc. on the Mokolumne.

Just before the road does the final dip down to the generation plant? There is a worker's residential area with a few houses, on the left. A paved driveway-looking road branches left to access these houses on their uphill side. Take that road.

This IS the road that eventually leads to Ellis. You will encounter at least one significant intersection - go straight through that one.

Eventually, after many miles (half hour driving, estimated) of both paved and fairly decent dirt roads? You get to the intersection of Ellis Rd - I don't recall a sign for 'Ellis" though there is a sign for Salt Spring Reservoir. Go that way... and 10 minutes later? You're there.

I'd factor in an hour, from Buckhorn - to Caldome, coming in this way.

Hope this helps.

DMT
Aaron Johnson

climber
Bear Valley, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 11:18am PT
Here are some photos to wet your appetite:

http://mtadventure.com/images/Albums/Rock_Climbing/Calaveras_Dome/index.htm


Salamanizer

Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
Apr 28, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
Take Panther Creek Rd in, it's open and is surely the fastest way in this time of year. Panther Creek Rd is off HWY 88 after Ham Station. Follow the road to the three way intersection and take a left. That will eventually turn into Ellis Rd which will take you directly to the Domes. Make sure you don't pass Panther Creek Rd on the way back out.

Cal Dome was pretty dry and nice on Sunday. Climbed Beacons to Mars and not a water streak in site. The camping round them parts is fantastic.



Cool TR Dingus, I soloed that route last year and found that has sprouted several dozen new bolts. The third pitch (the A2+/A4 pitch) is basically a bolt ladder now. There are also several wandering free (sport bolted)variations about. I thing it goes free at around 12+, mostly mid to low .10 with a bit of .11 though.

The lichen on that route is the kind that floats up and strait into your eyes. Horrific!
sneville

climber
Apr 28, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
Does anyone know how to get ahold of Will Cottrell? I tried his email on clint's website and it got sent back to me.
thanks
sean
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Apr 28, 2009 - 01:19pm PT
I used to have Will Cottrell's number. I bought his topos a few years ago, but never got a plan together to climb there, oops.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
Will Cottrell's 2003 guidebook has that same email address, plus:

el dorado publishing
Post Office Box 840
Camino, CA 95709
(530) 644-8448

and a web search suggests:

Contact Information for Dr. William (H.) Cottrell
A. 1139 3rd Street
South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150
(530) 541-3100
B. 3581 Palmer Drive Suite 201
Cameron Park, CA 95682
(530) 672-6220

or (same as B. but with different city name):

3581 Palmer Dr
Osteoporosis Medical Center
Suite 201
Shingle Springs, CA 95682

If someone finds a current email address for him, please let me know, so I can update my page.
t is for trad

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
i know that the anchor bolts on sands of time (or high times as Jay Smith called it when he did the FA, if i have my facts straight) have all been replaced up to karakoum towers. when i rappelled the route in summer '07 after doing sands of time the rap anchors were horrific. but a friend of mine replaced them this past summer('08) so it should be good to go. there were also some lead bolts on pitch 5 (i think) that were replaced but not all of them are new yet. but at least its safe to lead. there are a lot of other routes that could use a bit of fixin up but all in all cal dome is a great place to climb.

EDIT: i was wrong about all the anchors being replaced. two bolts on the 5.11 face pitch (which is actually like number 7)have been replaced and one anchor bolt was added at the base of the dihedral pitch above. I guess I'll have to go replaced those other anchors myself.
mikeyb

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 5, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
So it's been a week or so since the last post in this thread - anyone have any info if Ellis Rd is open yet? Thinking about heading out to the domes this weekend...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
May 5, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
Ellis rd wont be open until mid June. Likewise, Mormon Immigrant trail Rd wont be open until July 1st... if anyone cares.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
May 5, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
I can't believe that in a, "Wow Calaveras DOme looks sweet" thread there isn't one f*#king pic of it. WTF!!!

What's the matter with you people?
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