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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 26, 2009 - 02:55am PT
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I just noticed a few of these routes in the Beta section. This whole area has always been off my radar for some reason.
No longer! Come, my fellow gumbies, let's swarm this place like it's the Nutcracker ledge. Next weekend anybody?
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2009 - 03:30am PT
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Thanks, Clint. I should have thought to check your website. :) Maybe I'll go poking around there next weekend if the weather is good. Do you think it's melted out enough right now?
 Justin
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 26, 2009 - 04:38am PT
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It's a....... Mad World
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 26, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
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Justin,
I haven't gone there in early season, so I don't know how much Calavaras Dome is affected by snowmelt from the top. I've always gone in via Ellis Road. Some friends are planning a weekend there later in May if you are interested. Of course you can go there anytime, but it would be nice to have dry conditions on the shady side.
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Thanks Dingus and Clint. Maybe I'll wait a bit before heading out there.
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Lisa Apprill
Trad climber
Cincinnati
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Apr 28, 2009 - 03:06am PT
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Can anyone help me with driving directions since Ellis is closed? I'm trying to figure things out from this link: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/caldomes/roadmap.gif
I'd be grateful for any info.
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Chris2
Trad climber
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Apr 28, 2009 - 09:26am PT
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If it is your first time, don't try the drive down in the dark.
It can be confusing!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Apr 28, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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Take Panther Creek Rd in, it's open and is surely the fastest way in this time of year. Panther Creek Rd is off HWY 88 after Ham Station. Follow the road to the three way intersection and take a left. That will eventually turn into Ellis Rd which will take you directly to the Domes. Make sure you don't pass Panther Creek Rd on the way back out.
Cal Dome was pretty dry and nice on Sunday. Climbed Beacons to Mars and not a water streak in site. The camping round them parts is fantastic.
Cool TR Dingus, I soloed that route last year and found that has sprouted several dozen new bolts. The third pitch (the A2+/A4 pitch) is basically a bolt ladder now. There are also several wandering free (sport bolted)variations about. I thing it goes free at around 12+, mostly mid to low .10 with a bit of .11 though.
The lichen on that route is the kind that floats up and strait into your eyes. Horrific!
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sneville
climber
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Apr 28, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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Does anyone know how to get ahold of Will Cottrell? I tried his email on clint's website and it got sent back to me.
thanks
sean
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Apr 28, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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I used to have Will Cottrell's number. I bought his topos a few years ago, but never got a plan together to climb there, oops.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 28, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
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Will Cottrell's 2003 guidebook has that same email address, plus:
el dorado publishing
Post Office Box 840
Camino, CA 95709
(530) 644-8448
and a web search suggests:
Contact Information for Dr. William (H.) Cottrell
A. 1139 3rd Street
South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150
(530) 541-3100
B. 3581 Palmer Drive Suite 201
Cameron Park, CA 95682
(530) 672-6220
or (same as B. but with different city name):
3581 Palmer Dr
Osteoporosis Medical Center
Suite 201
Shingle Springs, CA 95682
If someone finds a current email address for him, please let me know, so I can update my page.
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t is for trad
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Apr 28, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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i know that the anchor bolts on sands of time (or high times as Jay Smith called it when he did the FA, if i have my facts straight) have all been replaced up to karakoum towers. when i rappelled the route in summer '07 after doing sands of time the rap anchors were horrific. but a friend of mine replaced them this past summer('08) so it should be good to go. there were also some lead bolts on pitch 5 (i think) that were replaced but not all of them are new yet. but at least its safe to lead. there are a lot of other routes that could use a bit of fixin up but all in all cal dome is a great place to climb.
EDIT: i was wrong about all the anchors being replaced. two bolts on the 5.11 face pitch (which is actually like number 7)have been replaced and one anchor bolt was added at the base of the dihedral pitch above. I guess I'll have to go replaced those other anchors myself.
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mikeyb
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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So it's been a week or so since the last post in this thread - anyone have any info if Ellis Rd is open yet? Thinking about heading out to the domes this weekend...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Ellis rd wont be open until mid June. Likewise, Mormon Immigrant trail Rd wont be open until July 1st... if anyone cares.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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I can't believe that in a, "Wow Calaveras DOme looks sweet" thread there isn't one f*#king pic of it. WTF!!!
What's the matter with you people?
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Hammer Dome
Gemini Cracks
rapping off
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!