FURTHER IMAGE STUDIES: BACK OF HALF DOME

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Messages 41 - 51 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:22am PT
Joe,

Thanks for sharing your great photos.
Definitely "the stuff dreams are made of"!

nutjob,

There's a topo for Labor of Love on p.214 of the 1994 Reid guidebook. Definitely an established route (Walt Shipley and Stephanie McCormack, 7/1991). I don't have any further beta beyond that. Best get up there before the days get too short!
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Sep 18, 2012 - 11:40am PT
What's the story about On the Edge?
Barbarian

Trad climber
New and Bionic too!
Sep 18, 2012 - 11:52am PT
Peter - From your first photo it is clear that Half Dome shoud be renamed "Dead Ox Point".
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Sep 18, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
I've been wondering why, since it's quite exactly opposite the North West face,

It's not called the South East face.
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
thanks for taking the time to put together this compiliation - all
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
Doesn't this pic look like a big turtle?

see the eye and the shell and front legs?

QITNL

climber
Feb 13, 2015 - 02:18am PT
Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Feb 13, 2015 - 04:08am PT
Peter Haan:

And at this point you have assume the Euros are watching this thread too.

Did that mean that you feared rap bolting?!

It does seem strange that the most featured part of the wall - between Southern Belle and Karma - is completely devoid of routes. Is that because it's steeper or because the features don't link?

Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2015 - 04:26am PT
Both, jaaan.

If you want that area to link up for you, there will have to be a very organized preparatory effort on the ground to find a tiny-feature-to-tiny-feature linkup. And now that distasteful previewing is getting accepted more and more often, this will be required too. Modern and like we have never really done before until very recently. The prospect of ugly blind leads up in that area is very great and frankly prohibitive for someone just trying to force a line as a free climb.

Instead of "follow the orange dihedral for 400 ft", it will be more like "step right three feet to find a good incut hold to gain several feet straight up with small nubbly footholds to reach a four foot dyno for a sloping stance". I think the recent Dawn Wall ascent was this micro-managed and should serve as an example how the remaining route prospects have to be worked. It just is the way it has to be when climbing at this high a level.
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Feb 13, 2015 - 05:08am PT
A route up that part of the wall would be fabulous though, wouldn't it? What a great thread, stuff of dreams - as Clint said:

One of my friends used to call it "shadow climbing" - trying to imagine myself up there and thinking about what it would be like.

I think the recent Dawn Wall ascent was this micro-managed and should serve as an example how the remaining route prospects have to be worked. It just is the way it has to be when climbing at this high a level.

That is without doubt - I wonder if this wall was given the scrutiny that TC afforded Dawn Wall, would it yield an equivalent route (in terms of difficulty and quality, not style, obviously). Do I take your second sentence as a sort of reluctant acceptance of that ethic or is your first sentence embracing it? Just out of curiosity, do you see a time in Yosemite when this wall (or others) would simply be sterilely rap bolted or do you think the strict Yosemite ethic will prevail?
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Feb 13, 2015 - 10:51am PT
Here's another view of the good Snake Dike shot from above. Click on it to see a bigger version - though still not as big as the original.

The approach goes along the horizontal crack and brush line leading from the South Face arches out left. The route starts at a tree near the white slabs at the shadow line. From there, it goes right up the prominent dike.


Half Dome - South by Southwest
Half Dome - South by Southwest
Credit: Tom

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