FURTHER IMAGE STUDIES: BACK OF HALF DOME

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 21, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
In the recent thread on Laid To Rest put up 4 days ago some of you wanted a better look at the back of Half Dome. So this is what I came up with, scrounging around my files, the internet, and so forth. It's the best I could do without buying big-assed aerial files. I think I will go up there myself soon and do some super hi-res images also and report back. I need the exercise to say the least.

In the images below, it becomes awfully clear how Half Dome really isn’t a half dome or half-onion, so to speak but a disturbingly complex weird summit loaded with changes and many features. I think its back and shoulders are quite a bit more interesting than the far more familiar northwest face. Rock quality too, obviously. And finally, just how creative all these routes really are back there. And that there is surely more climbing there.














bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 21, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
Holy!!!!

That is a nice lookin' shoulder.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Apr 21, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
Cool shots!

Have you checked out the xrez stuff?

http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/Yose_result.html

There's a decent partial view of the backside from the 'quarter domes viewpoint', and you can zoom WAY in...

a few screen shots from it...




crazy looking features!


Cheers!

Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Apr 21, 2009 - 03:19pm PT
Cool shots....

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 21, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
Nice Peter. As you say way more interesting than the standard shot from Glacier Point.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
As Tkingsbury says, go to that link. You will need to be running a Mac intel or a windows machine to use Silverlight (microsoft).
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 21, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
Just one incredible looking piece of rock.
Thanks, Peter!!!!
QITNL

climber
Apr 21, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
Awesome shots, Peter.

Thank you very much!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 21, 2009 - 04:06pm PT
Good stuff. Here are some things I've found and occasionally guessed lines on, mostly posted on the Southern Belle thread:
















Ben Montoya's photo (before my graffiti)

Peter, if you do go up there and get some higher-res shots from some of these angles, I'd like to get copies, to see if I can pick out the features on the Southern Belle topo from where it clears the arch to where it intersects the Harding-Rowell route. The hope is to make a more accurate topo.
And if you really need the exercise, check with Sean - it sounds like there are some ropes to carry down...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
You know, looking through all these accumulated images, it IS clear we need higher-res files on it. Most of our images are stunning but not quite high enough resolution to really get the facts, especially if we are going to get some more routes up there and especially for the purpose of recording what we do have currently, as you have been doing Clint. I will get the files to you as well as put links up here---the images will be gigantic and can't be hosted by Photobucket I have to assume, but can link out of my sites. I think to do this right i will have to spend a couple of days up there too for lighting and for vantage points.

I can get this done in the next month or so, I think. V. funny about becoming a mule for the cleanup crew but you are right, Clint. I should. It would be interesting getting to Dougie's incredibly productive friend Sean. You know, I have known Doug Robinson for forty years....
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
Apr 21, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
Get CF back there - - Doesn't he shoot Gigapan (Xrez) images himself , or has connections with the photogs ?
GDavis

Trad climber
Apr 21, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
wow karma is steep...
QITNL

climber
Apr 21, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
Thanks again. In a wee attempt at reciprocation, here are some shots from Liberty Cap last October.







Higher resolution versions here:
http://www.qitnl.com/102408/Yosemite_102408_268?full=1
(Full resolution upon request - use as you wish)
Double D

climber
Apr 21, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
B'chen!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 21, 2009 - 09:34pm PT
QITNL,

Very nice. I downloaded the higher resolution copies from your website. They show some of the features I wasn't able to make out in any other photos - nice afternoon light. Could I get the full resolution ones, too?
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Apr 21, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
What an incredibly beautiful piece of rock - so many of them are in the Valley. And as always I find Clint's graffiti-ed photos very interesting but have to wonder about one thing: there is some documentary value to a "more accurate topo" of Southern Belle, but who among us has the ability and guts to make use of it, eh?? I have always thought, just judging from the written accounts (and even more so from the ST thread) that was one of the most incredible bits of climbing ever done anywhere in N. America, ever.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
Mongrel, it was and is: "one the most beautfiful pieces of rock". We are celebrating it here on this thread and I am hoping that we can get more talented climbers thinking about addressing the awesome remaining challenges back there. In a few ways, it is just like the old days, 50's-60's. Most aren't getting the scent however.

When we jump grades (hardness, giant-ness, riskines, remoteness, whatever) there are these historic , threshold climbs that are semaphores in our history. Southern Belle is certainly one of ours. One of the most important, if we take a look at the future. So are the first half of Growing Up and Laid to Rest.

So my point is that perhaps only one or two of us here will ever be up there, but such is the case with most climbing and mountaineering writing. If accounts are important enough to be published in book form or article form, they are going to be desperate. And the FA party brings it home to us sharing the experience---not the climb itself---the experience. Making a community. Hopefully a good community.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
Apr 21, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
Has the right-leaning arch (center) been done ? That could be the start to the next independent line .
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 21, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
mongrel,

> there is some documentary value to a "more accurate topo" of Southern Belle, but who among us has the ability and guts to make use of it, eh??

True, it would be unlikely to be put to actual use much. It might help someone find the few bolts that are up there. And it might show the runouts better so people have a better idea what to expect.

I have looked at a large number of topos for routes and never climbed them. One of my friends used to call it "shadow climbing" - trying to imagine myself up there and thinking about what it would be like.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
No Blotchy, but it really isn't relevant. The potentials above dominates the initial lines below.

We here are going to get one hell of a good look back there.
Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Apr 22, 2009 - 12:42am PT
Great TR Peter. Such great pics. A sea of granite up there.
QITNL

climber
Apr 22, 2009 - 02:49am PT
Clint -

I'm honored.

From a higher power through my little canon point-and-shoot minus a little shadow/highlight to you:

http://www.qitnl.com/files/Yosemite_102408/Yosemite_102408-268-orig.JPG

http://www.qitnl.com/files/Yosemite_102408/Yosemite_102408-273-orig.JPG

http://www.qitnl.com/files/Yosemite_102408/Yosemite_102408-275-orig.JPG

Hope those links work, let me know if you have any problems.

Work your wonders,

-Joe
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 22, 2009 - 03:08am PT
Wow, Joe - thanks. Those are really nice.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2009 - 09:55am PT
God QINTL. Your links work of course. And thanks for elucidating the QITNL handle. These images are great!!. In Photoshop at 200% they are still useful. Here is the main one back atcha, tweaked a bit.



and here is the other one, also tweaked. These files btw are about 1.6 meg. I think we need even more hi-res ones so we can go out to 500% or more. I can do this, have the equipment and will be needing the hike this coming month.



This last image really is rich. You can see all the stuff going on over at Laid To Rest and Call of the Wild too which is v. cool.
QITNL

climber
Apr 22, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
Thanks fellas - I really appreciate your kind words. Coming from you guys it means a lot. I'm happy to be of help.

I should be working on my photo albums over the next couple of weeks. Might have some other useful stuff.

The backstory behind Quiet... I was in the music business for years, saw the tail end of its golden age. Now I can't really stand the stuff. The handle represents a turn in my path.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
Apr 22, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
Has the right-leaning arch (center) been done ? That could be the start to the next independent line .

I don't think so. I got a good look standing under the thing and it looks thin... really thin. Besides, the exit from the corner is a bit overhanging as is much of the whole south face.

On the true south face, the rock is much steeper than it appears in photographs, especially on the far right (karma) side. The features up there seem to stretch for a few hundred feet or so and then completely blank out on dead vertical to overhanging polished slab. I don't think there is nearly the potential for free routes that most people are probably imagining. You would be hard pressed to find a route that goes from the bottom to top free, even by top down methods. That is not to say there aren't any, it would just be like finding a needle in a haystack.

There is a sizable "dip" in the middle of the entire south face running from one side to the other. The face starts out steep, but not vertical, then "dips" in and becomes extremely steep to overhanging. Eventually it backs off and becomes more and more "less steep" rounding out to the top. All the existing routes that are back there connect the upper (less steep) half with the bottom via a crack system or major dike. And of all those, every single one is in the upper .11 or .12 area in the upper (less steep) half. So you can only imagine how hard it would be to climb through the steeper middle section. There must be a sizable feature to link the bottom to the top. Only when you find that do you have a slim chance in hell of linking a whole route.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2009 - 10:55pm PT
Well, Salami,

We have all been looking at this thing since the fifties. Really carefully. Spent days up there scoping, many of our best over decades.

And this is what we have done so far. It is quite a lot, but there is much more to do. Not everybody climbing now knows how much time has already been spent just assessing the situation up there, all these years. Some of these interested climbers are even dead.

There are a thousand reasons--- good ones --- that indicate we are done back there. And climbing has been in front of such roadblocks many times already, going back to the twenties, thirties etc. But always, and I really mean this, new talent finds a way. Here and there.

The back of Half Dome now poses amazingly detailed creative challenges for the next volley of talent. What can they find there? Can they micromanage their routes up these faces, armed with tons of information, foot by foot as it is going to require, or are they going to stand on the ground thinking the thing is “over with”, “hey, we can’t get up it”, in a broad-brush sort of way like we used to in the sixties and seventies?

We are entering, hopefully, an era in our art, where we have to have more information per foot than ever before to lead, to get up these areas on such a beautiful wall. If we are to do these potential horrific lines. And at this point you have assume the Euros are watching this thread too.

I have brought up all these images, and prompted or hosted this discussion, to show current lions of our art, that here, if anywhere, is one of the greatest NEW challenges to them. Our new route prospects ALWAYS looked like this. I can’t over-stress this point. And of course, if it were not an 8-mile hike, I think the “fundamental” view of impossibility would also be different.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 22, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
hey there peter hann and all... say, thanks for the share... this is very interesting...

sounds like it will be on folks minds in a new fresh way, all right... wow...
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 22, 2010 - 01:23am PT
Peter I have used a version of Autostitch developed up here at UBC and it might be useful to you for your upcoming photography project

http://cvlab.epfl.ch/~brown/autostitch/autostitch.html

It uses AI to piece together many overlapping photos.

Bruce
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Apr 22, 2010 - 12:39pm PT
Salamanizer and Peter- I really appreciate the thoughts you have on this amazing face. You are both right.
QITNL

climber
May 14, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
Here's another cool angle, point-and-shoot zoom from Vogelsang:

Credit: QITNL
NA_Kid

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
May 14, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
How bout a good picture of the Snake Dike area?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
May 14, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Coming soon to a theatre near you: Karma Redux..... Dig it!
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 14, 2012 - 07:10pm PT
I'd wanna see that....Do tell, Walleye.
Or is this a wait & see thing?....All good, Bro.
I'll wait. Cheers.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 14, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
Oh such good pics, no results...

Keep trying, Peter, keep trying.

I question the ethic of flying around taking shots and can't exactly condone all of this checking out Half Dome's backside. It smacks of violation, but not so serious as sodomy.

What would Royal say?

Seriously, I like not those archy-looking things, there could be BATSOS in there....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 15, 2012 - 12:54am PT
> How bout a good picture of the Snake Dike area?

Snake Dike approach, Snake Dike, Autobahn
Snake Dike approach, Snake Dike, Autobahn
Credit: cropped from original on summitpost.org, overlay by cc

Half Dome - SW Face routes: <br/>
On the Edge, West Corner, Labor of Love,...
Half Dome - SW Face routes:
On the Edge, West Corner, Labor of Love, Snake in the Grass, Salathe', Two Hoofers, Blondike, Dome Polishers, Deuceldike, Snake Dike, Eye in the Sky, Snake Dance
Credit: Clint Cummins
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 15, 2012 - 12:59am PT
Huge Stone just sittin' there, mindin' its own business....
wildone

climber
EP
May 15, 2012 - 05:34am PT
A few weeks ago, I hiked/post-holed up to the top of cloud's rest, and was just so quieted and humbled by the awesome beauty back there. Like the feeling you get when you've just gotten out of a movie or art exhibition that really challenged your mind or blew away your construct of the bounds of your reality, and you just don't want to return to the banalities of life, or even hear your own voice...
It's hard for me to put into words, but it is truly a magical place. If I believed in that "energy vortex" stuff that hippies in Arizona talk about, then I'd have to say that that south face has one...
Some of the most amazing things I've ever seen are up there. Some of the most special times I've ever had were up there on that piece of rock. One of my closest friendships was forged deep in a private world of uncertain outcomes, ominous objective hazards, and hard physical labor not to mention the shared love of the quest.
I sure hope those routes don't end up being the only time I drink from that well. I can remember everything with such clarity-as if it were this morning! I will always cherish my memories from that spring and summer.
QITNL

climber
Sep 17, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL

Credit: QITNL
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 17, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Clint, do you have any info about that Labor of Love route? I was eyeing that from the base and was mighty tempted a few months ago, not knowing whether or not it was an established route. Looks like all natural pro at a moderate grade, cruxes not more than low .10? But maybe my eyes are bigger than my stomach and balls, and my sense of difficulty is off?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:22am PT
Joe,

Thanks for sharing your great photos.
Definitely "the stuff dreams are made of"!

nutjob,

There's a topo for Labor of Love on p.214 of the 1994 Reid guidebook. Definitely an established route (Walt Shipley and Stephanie McCormack, 7/1991). I don't have any further beta beyond that. Best get up there before the days get too short!
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Sep 18, 2012 - 11:40am PT
What's the story about On the Edge?
Barbarian

Trad climber
New and Bionic too!
Sep 18, 2012 - 11:52am PT
Peter - From your first photo it is clear that Half Dome shoud be renamed "Dead Ox Point".
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Sep 18, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
I've been wondering why, since it's quite exactly opposite the North West face,

It's not called the South East face.
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Sep 18, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
thanks for taking the time to put together this compiliation - all
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Sep 18, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
Doesn't this pic look like a big turtle?

see the eye and the shell and front legs?

Messages 1 - 46 of total 46 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews