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mikeyb
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 16, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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Saw this in the *other* guide and got all curious about it. Looks like a great new-er-ish route. I tried looking up more info online, but could only find a couple of pictures of some guy on a super thin face. Has anyone on here done the route? Any info would help :) Especially entertaining TR's to keep me occupied at work.
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bob
climber
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Apr 16, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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Done the first three pitches. Mega bolted face climbing the whole way. It veers from the black streak after the dike then rejoins it for the end.
Bob J.
PS. Mike did another route called Retrospective. For a classic Fairview experience I'd recommend that one. Go to www.tuolumnemeadows.org for info.
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mikeyb
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2009 - 12:52am PT
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Cool - thanks for the info.
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Apr 18, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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Yea I really want to do this one. Heart of Stone looks cool too.
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Apr 18, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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Bring your levitation skills and suction cups
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bob
climber
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Apr 18, 2009 - 08:49am PT
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This makes me want to climb on Fairview so bad!
For you hard folk I really think an awesome linkup would be starting on Plastic Exploding Inevitable and then traversing Separation Anxiety's two crux pitches which put one at the base of Heart of Stone's sick corner. Mega link up with some 12- sections here and there. All GREAT climbing.
Miss that chunk of stone.
Bob j.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 18, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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Where does Nightshift go?
thx, jb
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bob
climber
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Apr 18, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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Basically up and slightly right of the big black streak left of Piece de Resistance.
Directly up to the u-shaped bowl.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Apr 18, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
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Bob, thanks....
Where can I find pix?
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bob
climber
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Apr 18, 2009 - 02:36pm PT
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I think over on Falk's site. He's got Retrospective there as well as Shoen's route. Both great outings for sure. There's pics in his newish guide of Night Shift as well.
Bob J.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Apr 24, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
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BobJ you know about Fairview?
Just fooling, Bob has climbed tons of Fairview routes.
I really like that rock also, Plastic Exploding is great and I am sure your dike is terrifying but classic. Has it seen a second ascent?
Pat
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 24, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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I did the route a while back. Don't think it's seen a repeat though. A few parties have been to the top of pitch three, but I don't believe anyone has ventured onto the real business above (I could be wrong about this though). The first three are pretty much piss easy compared to the next two.
Start doing your big toe workouts. You'll need all the strength you can get down there. When I started working on the route I couldn't do any of the upper crux pitch. But after 2 months of solid climbing on Fairview and a brand new pair of Muira's I could barely sketch through. Definitely a toe burner.
Originally the two pitches above the dike were going to be one pitch with a serious monkey trick making it possible. My feet would hurt so bad after the first 100ft I would stand on the biggest nob on the pitch and turn around so I was facing out, then take one shoe off for a few minutes, then switch. Repeat a few times till my feet could handle the pain again. This method seamed pretty ridiculous so I ended up breaking the pitch up. It would be rad to link them as one. Super hero style.
Sure hope someone repeats it sometime.
Retrospective is also a sweet route. Totally different style but also really worthy. The second pitch is the real deal, glad I won the rochambeau on that one. Going straight threw the Fairest of All roofs is awesome. Amazing no one had done it before us.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Apr 24, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
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Almost got on this one last year. We passed it up to go do Heart of Stone instead. I'm sure I'll get on it this year. I'm not much of a sport person though.
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NilsDavis
Trad climber
Bishop
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Oct 27, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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So funny. My buddy Todd Bibler was asking me for the topo for Retrospective , and had to look it up on google! Guess we never wrote much down and it just missed the latest Chris Falkenstein guide.
Wondering if this route has seen much action since Mike put it up with me in 2005. Incredible it's been that long.
Retrospective is a beautiful route and well worth doing. 2nd pitch is heads up and leading this and the roofs past Fairest of All fell to my hands on the F.A., although Mikey's lead of the technical crux was crucial.
The line is super direct on incredibly clean and solid rock.
Mikey and I were LAUGHING that this line was still available in a ground-up style in 2005! Where was everybody?
Was a serious treat and super memorable to do a new route on the finest of Tuolumne domes as late as 2005 in pure ground-up style.
Get out there and get on this thing! I want to hear feedback.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 27, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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It this is the line I'm thinking of, Scott Burk (it's NOT "Burke!)suggested the name "Streaker" for this full height black streak. He was working on "Hemispheres" at the time, about 1983-ish.
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 25, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
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Heard from Katie Lambert that she managed to repeat Night Shift. 2nd ascent as far as I know. A few other teams have topped it out but everyone had fallen on pitch 5 I believe. Probably a good time for someone else to try and repeat it while the chalk is still on it.
She thought pitch 4 was solid 5.12. I originally gave it 5.11+. oops...
Good Job to Katie!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jul 25, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
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I think Katie led every pitch and onsighted up through 5 and maybe the whole thing later on - impressive ! I bailed on P2, not wanting to face the slider - yikes ( need some motorcycle pants ). Expected Tuolumne knobs but found friable smiles. I need to go back - what a line.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 25, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Haven't done Night Shift, but it looks way cool. Heart of Stone is a great route.
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