Anyone been on Hotline this season?

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Messages 81 - 89 of total 89 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
micronut

Trad climber
Aug 28, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
Hard core, man!
Well done.
"Never had such brutal climbs before...." Awesome quote!
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Oct 18, 2012 - 02:15am PT
Bump - thanks for the beta and photos! Everyone should do Hotline - the pitch 2 (or pitch 3 in original book) hand crack is orgasmic! Best 5.10 crack in the valley?

Pitch 1 - super fun spare the loose blocks, we aided the traverse (and the body length below it - damn, hard!) Pitch 2 - no words can describe it. Pitch 4/5 I linked (our 3rd pitch), but wished I saved my #3 for the end - 5.8 fists to the belay at the end. That pitch felt similar to Gripper's first pitch, easier but not by much and also had some loose blocks. Rapped from there, a nice afternoon. Have to return for the last pitch. I wish we traversed right & rapped like Clint described (and did that other splitter) - rappelling down the route there is a potential for ropes to get stuck on the first rappel - as can be witnessed by 3-4 kinds of ropes stuck behind a block. We had no issues, but were a bit nervous.

We didn't find the trail on the way up at all after crossing the river (there are too many "monster boulders" in my opinion), bushwhacked a bit (30-40 mins), on the way down it was easy to follow and very quick.

The amazing Hotline hand crack from the approach. Wow!
The amazing Hotline hand crack from the approach. Wow!
Credit: pvalchev
The first pitch roof - 5.10 awesome &#40;but there are some loose bloc...
The first pitch roof - 5.10 awesome (but there are some loose blocks/care needed lower down pitch)
Credit: pvalchev
It does not get much better than that! You don't really need to put an...
It does not get much better than that! You don't really need to put any gear on the whole pitch, bomber hand crack!
Credit: pvalchev
Pitch 4 &#40;our pitch 3&#41;
Pitch 4 (our pitch 3)
Credit: pvalchev
End of pitch 3 &#40;where we rapped&#41;
End of pitch 3 (where we rapped)
Credit: pvalchev
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Oct 31, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Bump for hotline. Super cool route, was actually popular this past weekend.


Werner, can you fill in some history on the 12a fingers variation you did?

Sweet photo of Kauk on Hotline.
Sweet photo of Kauk on Hotline.
Credit: Patagonia.com

 Luke
velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
May 11, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
Any more specific beta on coming in from 41??
Byran

climber
San Jose, CA
May 11, 2015 - 10:59pm PT
I wouldn't recommend coming in from hwy 41 for any of the routes on the Worst Error Pinnacle, unless you plan on doing that Cedar Wright continuation (Elephant Man 12a) all the way to the top of the formation. The descent from the 41 is to the east of the formation - a short section of 3rd class scrambling down a break in the cliffs and then a very steep hike down the forest on dirt and leaves. If you don't top out, then you have to slog all the way back up to your car.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 12, 2015 - 07:58pm PT
Which beats f*#king around with the river!
WBraun

climber
May 12, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
You can swim across the river. (I have several times)

The hike from 41 isn't that bad going down to the base. (because it's downhill)

The hike back up feels like a long ways. (I've done the hike up and down several times)

Or you can climb out on straight error to the top of Elephant Rock.

I used to free solo straight error all the time .....
velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
May 13, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
Werner thanks! So you can hike to the base from the 41...Down the west side of the formation? And then climb hotline to straight error?
Byran

climber
San Jose, CA
May 13, 2015 - 09:57pm PT
You can climb Hotline, rap back to the ground, then climb Straight Error and finish on some other climb (Pink Elephant, Elephantitis, Hocus Pocus, Trundling Juan, ect... lots of options) to top out. Big day, but doable for a fast party and you'd be in the shade most of the time and the climbing would be excellent all around. I believe the only route which leads off the top of the Worst Error is Elephant Man (bolted thin face, 12a I think)

And the hike is to the east of the formation. Between the Elephant Rock and the Graveyard.
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