Anyone been on Hotline this season?

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 83 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 22, 2009 - 01:40am PT
Thanks, Stephen!
The links work, and here are your scans directly:



To show the scans directly, I used your links and clicked on the largest size of the scans, then right-clicked on the image to get the full URL, like
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3529/3465187232_47cf34f344_o.jpg
Then I put the [img ] and [/img ] tags around it (without the space before the ] ).
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 22, 2009 - 01:49am PT
Great article - thanks for scanning it. Besides Hot Line, it also includes The Free Blast, Astralman, Nose-in-a-day and several other classics! I remember reading it in the fall of 1975 and wondering if I had made the right choice about going to college instead of following my friends to Yosemite! (Seeing the 5.12 grade already, and barely being able to do 5.10, I felt OK with my choice :-) ).
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 22, 2009 - 07:36am PT
Funny Clint. I started back to college the next year. Nothing like: "There is no success like failure..."
Double D

climber
Apr 22, 2009 - 08:16am PT
What an era of free-climbing activity. Those are all amazing routes. Thanks for the scan Clint.

Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 23, 2009 - 12:01am PT
Clint. Thanks for the tip. - SM
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
We just climbed Hot Line last weekend.
Thanks for ST forum for information- without it would not have an idea that mortal can climb it in spring.
Everything was same as on Clint photos , except that there is fixed rope from bottom to top of p3. This rope is not on the way, but dangerously worn out in the middle. I regret that we did not drop it off.
Approach from Elephant parking took us down about hour, but we wasted ~20 min trying to find passage between Elephant Rock and Elephant Graveyard. We found one on way down and anther on the way up and build a duck.
there is basically no trail or we did not find one.
All climb in the shade up to 3:30PM
Climbing felt very remote - despite all routes on the Cookie across Merced was taken by climbers. Cookie cliff was looking exactly like on page 46/47 (Reid 1998) with climbers on Hardd , OuterLimits, MeatGrinder, NabiscoWall and Catchy. All guys who were there -you can make a good trail to Hot Line next weekend.
Plumb Line on east Elephants - looks very impressive- striking line . Anyone who climbed it before- want to share beta ( gear/crux) for Plumb Line?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 28, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
Did the FA of Plumbline with Dale Bard and Bridwell, 35 years ago. The offsize 2nd pitch is hard - Dale led, I liebacked it with a top rope! The rest of the route is good rock, fun climbing, not too hard.

Nice topout, and an easy hike back to the car. Doubt it gets done much - out of sight, out of mind.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
Kevin, your comments about laybackin 10d ow pitch on Plimb line are not very encouraging, ha-ha.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:18pm PT
Well, Dale was an ace offwidth climber, as I've mentioned here before, unlike most climbers, his fist size takes over where his knee size cuts off, and that section is 4 to 5 inches, if I remember right, and with a good edge in a right angle corner.

With cams you could lieback it and protect it on lead easily!

Bridwell definitely took Dale as the ropegun for that pitch.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
Kevin, thanks. It looks from below that second pitch wide section not very long, like 25-30 feet and than become hands size?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
That sounds right, shorter offsize section if anything.

I remember the last pitch being pretty fun mixed climbing.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
Cool, Alexey - I'm glad to hear you got right on Hotline, and that the approach from above was not too bad.
flamer

Trad climber
denver
Apr 28, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
Double..D Wrote:
"PS… did the crappy rap anchors ever get replaced? "

Yes.

A couple of years ago I went up with a partner and replaced 2 bolts.
1 On the anchor directly below the last pitch....and the lead bolt on the last pitch.

I replaced the lead bolt On lead, by hand...with out weighting the old one. It was an interesting way to do it!

I remember the rest of the anchors were good enough we didn't replace anything.

The bolts were supplied by the ASCA.

josh

Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
thanks Clint for your trip report
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
May 19, 2009 - 10:45pm PT
Hey everybody,

My partner and I checked out Hotline this Sunday, and I just wanted to echo what Alexey said... "there is basically no trail or we did not find one." The part near the rim is apparent enough, just walk straight out to Elephant Rock from highway 41 and then once you hit the rim walk east for 5-10 minutes until you see some cairns marking a chute down between Elephant Rock and Elephant's Graveyard. After that, sooner rather than later, things degrade into vertical meadows of poison oak and slippery leaves. At least we had a copious supply of animal spirit guides (mosquitoes). Actually, I have poison oak starting to pop up all over my body right now! I won't ever go back to do the approach from above. It sucks.

We climbed up to the bottom of the 10d flare pitch (first 5 pitches) and then did 3 rappels with two 60m ropes to get to the ground. There are bolted rap stations at the tops of P2, P3 and P5. Also, there's a slung block at the top of P4. We freed everything but P2, which we aided almost entirely. Doing it this way makes it very accessible to a 5.10 climber.

Also, I dropped off the fixed line from the top of p3, coiled it, and left it at the base. The biners used to anchor it were safely carried to the ground and left with the rope. It had a huge core shot in the middle... more than 6 inches of the core was completely exposed. In my opinion, it was also an eyesore. I'd have probably dropped it even if it weren't dangerous.

Embarrassingly, we were so fed up with the approach from 41, we decided to scope out the river and possibly try to swim across the Merced and then hitchike back up to the car. There are a few places where the river is calm enough and broken up by islands that it was very tempting to try (for future reference, we climbed the route on May 17, 2009). This didn't work. We also tried to hike out east along the river on what started out as a pretty good trail. This also didn't work when the trail died out somewhere past the Rostrum. Long story short, we had to bivy and then backtrack up to the car the next day, making our friends and loved ones worried sick (they had also called NPS when we hadn't shown up at home on Sunday night, prompting them to start looking for us.) So make fun of us or whatever... yeah, we're stupid, but maybe this info will be useful for somebody.

 Justin
WBraun

climber
May 19, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
Pitch 2 is a 5.10A hand crack.

You are saying you broke the first pitch into 2 mini pitches.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 19, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
The guidebook topo (1982, 1987 at least) breaks it that way.
I can see that linking those to the end of the traverse is better if you are freeing it, since you don't create a rest just before it starts getting hard.
WBraun

climber
May 19, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
It's wrong Clint.

The reason is because the FA party only belayed there because that's where they stopped free climbing and it is not a natural belay. It's slightly overhanging at that spot.

If you do the route free and you belay at that spot which is only about 60 feet off the ground and then do the rest of the pitch as a second pitch you've really rested in the middle of a real full pitch as you mentioned also.

That bolt there was removed at one time and someone replaced it. Kind of goofy way of climbing, hanging in the middle of a pitch.

On the Crimson Cringe Bachar removed Jardine's belay bolts at the start of the under-cling to make the Cringe a real full pitch instead of breaking it apart in so many different ways.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 20, 2009 - 12:16am PT
Hey P-King, if you're still in the ditch you should go do Hotline!
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2012 - 11:58am PT
Want to update this tread since I had opportunity to finish the route.
Last time we climbed - we stop short below the wild 10d bombay flare.
This time we climbed it. This pitch is something. Never had such brutal climbs before.
You basically paste your knee at one wall and feet and shoulders on opposite one. But configuration of the flare, its angle and absence of holds/features on the walls make upper progress very difficult. And when you move one knee up you feel excruciating pain on the other even with knee pads. The pitch is relatively short , but take a lot of skin away. There is opportunity for good gear placement in the corner, but it is not continues line and it has some gaps.
It is really difficult to find good comparable route for this pitch. Probably closest I climbed with similar moves and rating was- 1096 10d** -but it felt like cruiser in comparison.
Next time if I would be there I definitely will take Werner 11d variation instead. It looks that it mostly good hands with short roof (crux) which can be easily aded with couple pulls on gear.
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