Anyone been on Hotline this season?


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Apr 16, 2009 - 09:49am PT
Stellar photos, thanks for posting Clint!

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 16, 2009 - 10:05am PT
Keith and I were leaving for the Hotline approach,
Buggs asked "You ready for this?"

My reply: "It's gonna be a cooold day in hell....."

Turned out to be such a great route, well worth the suffering!

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 16, 2009 - 10:10am PT
one of the best routes on the planet,

though I'm going to do more of 'em to make sure.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 16, 2009 - 11:44am PT
When I saw the title of this post last night, I made a mental note to see if I could find pictures of the route. Nice. Thanks Clint.

Almost nothing makes me want to be young again, but this is getting close.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Apr 16, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
This brings up the question: has Clint climbed everything in Yosemite?

Old Pueblo, AZ
Apr 16, 2009 - 01:13pm PT


Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 16, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
what is a "ropegun"

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 16, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
Clint, AlexC and Jaybro thank you for the beta.
Jaybro - you said "The descent (and return) from the top is no big deal". So, there is no need to wait for low water in the fall ?
How long take approach/descend from above h/w 41 - any clear trail be found on east side of Elephant rock? Any suggestions if it is not easy to find and follow decent ?

Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Apr 16, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
Wow Clint, the memories. I climbed Hotline in 1978 with Bev Johnson. Some recollections. The 10d flare was very hard. The all time hand crack (p3) was a little thin at the start, very similar to the Robbins Crack at Woodson. We aided the 5.12 traverse at the end of p2, not wanting to deprive ourselves of an otherwise outstanding climb.
We forgot the tape, so did the first two pitches and came back the next day and finished the route. Rappelling the right side of the Worst Error, we hung the rappel and wound up cutting one rope losing 40 feet.
Thanks again for the pics. Hotline is a great, great route.

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Apr 17, 2009 - 09:11am PT
You can crimp across the traverse or walk your feet across.Maybe easier to walk across.I crimped.

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 17, 2009 - 09:21am PT
Alexy, I will check my notes, when I get home, but I remember it being pretty straight forward to get there, 45 minutes?
rick d

tucson, az
Apr 17, 2009 - 10:12am PT
martygarrison wrote:
>what is a "ropegun"

that would be (in my case) Scott DeCapio.

You hand him the rope and he puts it at the anchors.

we simply called him the weapon at the creek but he is deft in the mountains as well.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 17, 2009 - 11:20am PT
I looked at the topo last night and was surprised that most of the climbing is 5.10. When Jim and Mark (do I have that right?)did the route, was the only aid the dike traverse? Did Ron and John do the FFA?

I am jealous that you were able to climb Hotline Eric, especially with Bev.
scuffy b

Frigate Matilda
Apr 17, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
Hey Marty,

you can think of a ropegun as the answer to

How do you get the rope up there?


Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
How does one aid the dike traverse? Hooks? Sorry, but I'm pretty ig'nant of the "aid" stuff.

Free it goes at .12a? The only 12 I've been on in Yos is Cookie Monster which was hard, but do-able for a mortal.

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
Tension Traverse, set the last peice high.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 17, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
Thanks Kevin. I am doing just fine. I just returned from a great vacation in Turkey--my wife stayed another week for work. Best time travelling I have had, I think.

I cannot believe that I missed Hotline. It was first climbed in 1975 wasn't it? I was still in the Valley that year and the next. But this is the first time that I have seen any photos. Great looking route.

I have put it on to my cybernet tick list, along with Astroman. Hehe.

In Meyer's guide, if I remember corectly, the crack just before the traverse is hard 5.10. And the traverse is rated 5.12. Is this correct? Interesting that Jim and Mark did not free the crack.

Also, was this the first 5.12 in the Valley when Ron and John free climbed it?

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Apr 17, 2009 - 02:48pm PT
I remember being in the Valley when Ron & John did this. As I remember it, this WAS the first Valley 5.12 (First in the country?)

There was a "logo" done that made its way into the C4 SAR nut/new routes book. (Hazy on that... perhaps it was just a topo with art I saw on the table..) anyway, somewhere I have a copy of the artwork. I'll look for it and post. It was actually pretty cool in the same vein as the Lightning Bolt.

Apr 18, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
The free version is a very hard 12a crimp traverse that I've only been able to do the moves by crimp-campusing (your feet cut if you are short on one move). I know someone who tried walking across, but said it wouldn't go. I hear you can also heel-hook. The 11d crack leading up to the traverse is difficult, but not unmanageable. If you plan on freeing it, I highly recommend not clipping the fixed piece above the traverse because you waste a lot of energy down climbing and the gear right before the traverse is bomber.

I haven't done the 10d flare; we did the 11d roof pitch instead, which is stellar. The last pitch is certainly heads up. There are two moves above a bolt that you wouldn't want to blow.

We brought doubles up to #3.

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 18, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
Ron and I called it 5.12a which was the first time somebody actually rated a route 12a in the Valley, maybe the country (I don't remember).

I think the first 5.12a in the Valley was the Fish Crack (which Henry called 11d), or maybe Overhang Overpass (which I think may be 12a).

I think I have Alzheimer's....
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