Anyone been on Hotline this season?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic
AllezAllez510

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 15, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
Thinking of giving this one a go. Anyone know of conditions? Gear? Would love to hear about the crux. Looks like a dyke traverse?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
Hotline is on the outside of a buttress, so it tends to be quite dry. It is easist to access in October/November when you can cross the Merced and hike up from below. The rest of the year you would have to hike down from [edit:] 41 and also return that way.

The crux is a 5.11+ left-leaning crack which narrows to fingers. You try to rest at the former pendulum point (sometimes a fixed wired nut is in place), then traverse right on the dike. I've been able to free climb the traverse after resting at the pendulum point, but I have never gotten the crack itself free. I can post some photos if you're interested. [edit: see post below]
shwilly

Trad climber
vegas
Apr 15, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
i'm interested

Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
Clint - what do you think about last 2 pitches -
a)10d flare how hard is it compare say to Ahab
b) last pitch 10a face - any pro there?
thaks
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Apr 15, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
"I can post some photos if you're interested"


Funny!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
Alexey,

> a)10d flare how hard is it compare say to Ahab
> b) last pitch 10a face - any pro there?

I have never done the last 2 pitches, or Ahab.
The 10d flare looks wild; it is an open bombay and not similar to Ahab. I've heard the pro is not bad.
I guess it's too wild for me, so I escape by traversing right on easy 5th class and rapping Nightmare / Pink Dream.
Another alternative to the 5.10d bombay is a 5.11+ roof just left - it looks more straightforward and protected.
AlexC

climber
Bay Area, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
> a)10d flare how hard is it compare say to Ahab

Don't know. When I was there a year or two ago there was a pile of bird droppings about a foot tall at the base of the flare so we did the 11+ to the left. Nice climbing but hard moves past the lip.

> b) last pitch 10a face - any pro there?

There's a bolt or two, a long reach move, then easy climbing the rest of the way. Short pitch.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
Photos - climbing with Darko, 9/2006:


Darko on p1 - there are a couple of loose chockstones in the brown corner, then a fun roof on hand jams.






Darko following p2 (crux).
Some of these are tilted - I was trying to belay, give tension at times, etc.



Dike holds visible right of Darko.


Darko's feet are on the chalked holds where your hands go when you traverse the dike.


p3 - the all-time hand crack.
There is also a cool looking alternative [edit:] 5.12a crack on the right side of the brown rectangle (but I've never tried it - can't miss the hand crack!).



p4


p5


traversing off right, below the 5.10d bombay


Rapping off Nightmare



Pink Dream anchor


Right side of Worst Error, showing Pink Dream and Nightmare


Views of Hotline and Fatal Mistake on Worst Error from above the Cookie

Afternoon light - upper corners of Hotline getting some sun
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
Thanks!
T H

Boulder climber
the greasewood ghetto
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
" The rest of the year you would have to hike down from 140 and also return that way. "
You mean 41 right ? Nice beta and pics Clint - as always .

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
Oops - right - 41 - I'll edit that.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
Great shots, Clint!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 15, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
There really isn't any pitch in Yosemite I've done that compares with the flared chimney on Hot Line. The only thing that comes close, as far as structure and method used to get up it, is right around the corner - The Right Side of the Worst Error. That pitch has a wide crack in the back instead of a stopper crack, but it's got the same bombay thing happening, only for a bit more distance. On the Worst Error you can stuff yourself in the back of the flare and grovel, or stem out into the flare and finesse it out, seems as if Hotline's bombay is similar, but harder, and better protected. Unless you've got giant cams on the RSWE.


TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Apr 15, 2009 - 08:09pm PT
I like the pose of the guy with the taped up hands scratching his ass.

(Because, of course, tape doesn't sweat, right?)
AllezAllez510

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
YES! Thank you! That was EXACTLY the motivation I needed. That route looks epic!
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
Man that looks like a good climb.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
:-) Thanks for putting it on the map.

Following a single crack up a mostly blank wall, with air all around - it doesn't get much better than that.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 15, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
I'm with bachar on this one. That looks sweet.

I moved out here to the east side, so now I boulder a lot, but hoe leee smokes, I miss those yo se mite cracks.
WBraun

climber
Apr 15, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
The 10d flare chimney always seemed hard as hell to me.

I always wanted to avoid that damn thing, and that's how I found the coz-grovel variation that me and coz did.

Only problem was the variation was harder than the damn chimney ....
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Apr 15, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
Those are the first pictures I have ever seen on route. Nice work!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 16, 2009 - 12:52am PT
The 10d wide flare is a quality pitch! three letter grades or so harder than Ahab.
The 10a face pitch is runout, bring a ropegun, I did.

The descent (and return) from the top is no big deal, don't mess with the river, unless you have time on your hands.

I commented earlier today, not having seen this thread, that Hotline is one of the best routes on the planet. Haven't changed my mind.
ct

climber
CO
Apr 16, 2009 - 06:49am PT
Stellar photos, thanks for posting Clint!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 16, 2009 - 07:05am PT
Keith and I were leaving for the Hotline approach,
Buggs asked "You ready for this?"

My reply: "It's gonna be a cooold day in hell....."

Turned out to be such a great route, well worth the suffering!
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 16, 2009 - 07:10am PT
one of the best routes on the planet,

though I'm going to do more of 'em to make sure.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 16, 2009 - 08:44am PT
When I saw the title of this post last night, I made a mental note to see if I could find pictures of the route. Nice. Thanks Clint.

Almost nothing makes me want to be young again, but this is getting close.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Apr 16, 2009 - 09:14am PT
This brings up the question: has Clint climbed everything in Yosemite?
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
Apr 16, 2009 - 10:13am PT
SICK!!!

martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 16, 2009 - 10:57am PT
what is a "ropegun"
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 16, 2009 - 02:34pm PT
Clint, AlexC and Jaybro thank you for the beta.
Jaybro - you said "The descent (and return) from the top is no big deal". So, there is no need to wait for low water in the fall ?
How long take approach/descend from above h/w 41 - any clear trail be found on east side of Elephant rock? Any suggestions if it is not easy to find and follow decent ?

Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Apr 16, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
Wow Clint, the memories. I climbed Hotline in 1978 with Bev Johnson. Some recollections. The 10d flare was very hard. The all time hand crack (p3) was a little thin at the start, very similar to the Robbins Crack at Woodson. We aided the 5.12 traverse at the end of p2, not wanting to deprive ourselves of an otherwise outstanding climb.
We forgot the tape, so did the first two pitches and came back the next day and finished the route. Rappelling the right side of the Worst Error, we hung the rappel and wound up cutting one rope losing 40 feet.
Thanks again for the pics. Hotline is a great, great route.
dickcilley

Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
Apr 17, 2009 - 06:11am PT
You can crimp across the traverse or walk your feet across.Maybe easier to walk across.I crimped.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 17, 2009 - 06:21am PT
Alexy, I will check my notes, when I get home, but I remember it being pretty straight forward to get there, 45 minutes?
rick d

climber
tucson, az
Apr 17, 2009 - 07:12am PT
martygarrison wrote:
>what is a "ropegun"

that would be (in my case) Scott DeCapio.

You hand him the rope and he puts it at the anchors.

we simply called him the weapon at the creek but he is deft in the mountains as well.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 17, 2009 - 08:20am PT
I looked at the topo last night and was surprised that most of the climbing is 5.10. When Jim and Mark (do I have that right?)did the route, was the only aid the dike traverse? Did Ron and John do the FFA?

I am jealous that you were able to climb Hotline Eric, especially with Bev.
scuffy b

climber
Frigate Matilda
Apr 17, 2009 - 09:23am PT
Hey Marty,

you can think of a ropegun as the answer to

How do you get the rope up there?

sm
AllezAllez510

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2009 - 10:43am PT
How does one aid the dike traverse? Hooks? Sorry, but I'm pretty ig'nant of the "aid" stuff.

Free it goes at .12a? The only 12 I've been on in Yos is Cookie Monster which was hard, but do-able for a mortal.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 17, 2009 - 10:45am PT
Tension Traverse, set the last peice high.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 17, 2009 - 11:00am PT
Hey Roger,

How are you? Well, I hope.

Hotline originally was aided from a point just above the roof on the first pitch, about thirty feet of A1 to the traverse. I did an early ascent with Art Higbee, before it was freeclimbed, and that's how we did it.

One of my most memorable Yosemite leads was that 2nd pitch handcrack. The ultimate sinker handjam splitter.

Nice rounded, user-friendly edge, straight up, straight in, smooth, steep wall, perfect rock, lots of air. Perfect runout material.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 17, 2009 - 11:29am PT
Thanks Kevin. I am doing just fine. I just returned from a great vacation in Turkey--my wife stayed another week for work. Best time travelling I have had, I think.

I cannot believe that I missed Hotline. It was first climbed in 1975 wasn't it? I was still in the Valley that year and the next. But this is the first time that I have seen any photos. Great looking route.

I have put it on to my cybernet tick list, along with Astroman. Hehe.

In Meyer's guide, if I remember corectly, the crack just before the traverse is hard 5.10. And the traverse is rated 5.12. Is this correct? Interesting that Jim and Mark did not free the crack.

Also, was this the first 5.12 in the Valley when Ron and John free climbed it?
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Apr 17, 2009 - 11:48am PT
I remember being in the Valley when Ron & John did this. As I remember it, this WAS the first Valley 5.12 (First in the country?)

There was a "logo" done that made its way into the C4 SAR nut/new routes book. (Hazy on that... perhaps it was just a topo with art I saw on the table..) anyway, somewhere I have a copy of the artwork. I'll look for it and post. It was actually pretty cool in the same vein as the Lightning Bolt.
nmilfeld

climber
Apr 18, 2009 - 11:07am PT
The free version is a very hard 12a crimp traverse that I've only been able to do the moves by crimp-campusing (your feet cut if you are short on one move). I know someone who tried walking across, but said it wouldn't go. I hear you can also heel-hook. The 11d crack leading up to the traverse is difficult, but not unmanageable. If you plan on freeing it, I highly recommend not clipping the fixed piece above the traverse because you waste a lot of energy down climbing and the gear right before the traverse is bomber.

I haven't done the 10d flare; we did the 11d roof pitch instead, which is stellar. The last pitch is certainly heads up. There are two moves above a bolt that you wouldn't want to blow.

We brought doubles up to #3.
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 18, 2009 - 11:19am PT
Ron and I called it 5.12a which was the first time somebody actually rated a route 12a in the Valley, maybe the country (I don't remember).

I think the first 5.12a in the Valley was the Fish Crack (which Henry called 11d), or maybe Overhang Overpass (which I think may be 12a).

I think I have Alzheimer's....
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 18, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
Hi John,

For totally unrelated reasons I have a copy of the original Meyers loose leaf green guide on my desk.

Hotline is rated, 5.11. (What happened John? Did you forget to tell George?)

The Rostum, 5.11 A1.

The Owl, 5.9. (No going over the roof yet.)

The Fish Crack, 5.11

The Crimson Cringe, 5.11

Overhang Overpass, 5.11

katiebird

climber
yosemite
Apr 18, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
In the Spring 2009 Patagonia catalog is a photo of RK on the route with a great little write-up on the route, too. Great shot, really gives perspective of the scale.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 19, 2009 - 06:33am PT
Hi Katiebird,

Do you have a web link for the photo? I searched but couldn't find one. (In Ohio, we only get Patagonia catalogues in Goodwill stores about three years after the fact.)
katiebird

climber
yosemite
Apr 19, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?assetid=1878

the photo in the mag is much better but this croped version gives you an idea

chappy

Social climber
ventura
Apr 20, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
Hey Roger, Kev and everyone:
Jim and I did Hotline in the spring of 73. I think it was only the second time I had ever climbed with Jim (the first was on Straight Error also on Elephant Rock)though I had known him for a couple of years. I really blossomed as a climber that spring and Jim hooked up with me for a number of classic FAs. It was early in the season and Jim wasn't fit. When we hiked down there I had never even seen the route before. I had absolutely no idea what we were doing. Jim led the first pitch and did use quite a bit of aid. I couldn't see him from where I was belaying but I remember him laboring away up there. I followed the first pitch and quite frankly can't remember how much aid I used but it was probably similar to what Jim used.I lucked into leading the stellar hand crack. The flare was supposed to be my lead as well but I backed off it. Jim led it drawing on all his years of experience in Valley flares. We were in for a shock when it came to the last pitch..we forgot the bolt kit!! We traversed off and rapped Pink Dreams. I remember (shockingly to my tender sensibilities)Jim pulling slings out of the rappel anchor. He told me there were a few more good ones in there worth taking if I wanted any. I declined prefering to have a bomber anchor. A couple of days later we returned and climbed the left side of the Worst Error and rapped into our high point. I led the last pitch and that was that. It always bothered me that we din't reclimb the route from the base--which is what I naturally would have done. But Jim was JIM BRIDWELL and I was just me. Who was I to second guess a legend? I could hardly fathom the fact that I was climbing with him. It was one of those odd Bridwellian tactics that (depending on ones ethical views) somewhat taint all his amazing climbing achievements. If I had to describe Jim as a climber I would call him pragmatic as opposed to strictly ethical. He was always looking for an edge. During our ascent I remember looking across the Valley and watching Jim Donini and Dale Bard attempting the FA of the Nabisco Wall. I was a bit troubled as I really wanted to do the FA of that route which was a bit of a prize at the time. As it turned out they didn't make it and Bridwell and I got the FA later that spring.
Chappy
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 20, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
I remember a report in Mountain (1975 or early 1976) titled something like "5.12 Grade Established in Yosemite" with the story of the FFA of Hotline. Perhaps Steve Grossman has it in his collection and could scan it, if he hasn't already?

Since the green looseleaf Meyers guide was published in 1976 or 1977, perhaps he wasn't ready to accept a new grade yet. Heck, even 5.11 was controversial in 1973, according to Bridwell's Brave New World article.
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/brave.htm
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 20, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
Cool route Mark. Thanks for the recollections of climbing with Jim. 1973 was a great year.
katiebird

climber
yosemite
Apr 20, 2009 - 08:41pm PT
http://www.patagonia.com/usa/patagonia.go?assetid=40836
here is the link to Ron's write-up on the route - thanks Clint
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 20, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
Chappy,

You guys really snagged a classic with that one! And the Biscuit to boot!

We were so lucky to have all those classic unclimbed lines staring us in the face back then. It made all those nights in the dirt so worth it.


Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Apr 21, 2009 - 05:51am PT
What he said, you don't get a gem like that very often!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2009 - 07:10am PT
What about all those days in the dirt cleaning the lines, Kevin?!?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 21, 2009 - 08:06am PT
I never did much cleaning in Yosemite, save the odd hummock or two.

There was a fatty at the top of Fingerlickin'. Actually, Donini cleaned that for us when he tried to mantel it. Great Moments in Baseball took a little work.

A little lichen scraping, for sure, but only on a few recent efforts.

Nowadays I don't sleep in the dirt every night, so I get my dirt fix on the crag in San Diego.

I think Hotline was clean except for lichen, and that was probably mostly on the first pitch.
Double D

climber
Apr 21, 2009 - 08:11am PT
One of my all time favorite routes for sure!

Several have commented on the traverse, crimping vs "walking". Both times I've done it I "walked" it. The crimp seemed like it would be 5.12...the walk...it's definitely not a walk in the park and requires some very delicate balance moves but is surely not nearly as hard as the crimp-pump fest.

Kevin...the bombay chimney...as you corrected me on another thread, we always though that was rated 5.10b in the books so I was blown away at how hard it was for a b! It's fairly well protected but strenuous and awkward!

Classic line and kudos to Eric, Jim, Chappy, Ron and John who all had the vision for this route.

PS did the crappy rap anchors ever get replaced?

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Apr 21, 2009 - 09:13am PT
Ditto on the traverse.
The 11 plus crack leading up to it is pretty burly.

Definitely not 5.12 as a walk across on the dyke, but very delicate and I remember reaching low for a rurp scar to help myself complete a final step through.

I did this in 1980 swinging leads with Kim Carrigan; this was before he got all Valley Syndrome on us...
(or did we do it to him) !!!

He got a little greedy and having led the crux also climbed the first few body lengths of the long hand crack after completing the traverse. That hand crack pitch is glorious if easy; when you see people doing it from afar they really cruise.

The 10D flair has really no resemblance to typical wide: it's basically very delicate bombay chimney climbing with as I remember a long thin edge on one side for the feet.

At the final pitch, I remember bragging to Kim about how I grew up doing thin slab climbing and as I started off on the lead, promptly fell off on the 10A move right by the bolt!
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Apr 21, 2009 - 09:46am PT
Great Story Mark (chappy) and missed you at Easter!

This one is at the top of my "gotta go back there again list". In 1979 or maybe 80, I hiked down there with Max Jones. We seemed to be having a "high gravity day". I cruised the crack, only to get shut down on the walk the plank traverse. I was surprised as I was usually quite good at tricky balance types of things. I finally lowered off, pulled the rope and Max gave it a go, only to fail as well. We were so bummed that we bailed from there rather than just tension it and enjoy the rest of the stellar climbing. Rather than hike back out we went over to Hairline, and climbed that out, another fine climb. Next day we repeated Peter Crofts' Pigs in Space, and cruised it as a way to redeem ourselves as being able to do 12a.

Maybe this is the year!

Peter
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 21, 2009 - 09:57am PT
Peter, I suspect that the force of gravity probably did not incerase. We could check with Ed. But even if it had, your ability to stick to rock would have increased; you would have just been more tired.

However, I think it is much more likely that gravity was dancing around and as it moved you were not able to keep your body balanced above the plank traveres holds. Sounds like the same thing happend to Tar on the last pitch.

Just a thought. What else could explain it?

At least you when I to try it. Somehow I missed even walking over there.

So, today if you were shut down would you tension across? I fully understand why you would not have done so then.
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Apr 21, 2009 - 10:09am PT
Cheers all:
I can't believe I never went back and did the route a second time in one continous push. I was such a green rookie at the time Jim and I first did it. It would have been great to go back and revisit the thing as a more seasoned climber if for no other reason than to have a greater sense of appreciation for what I was so lucky to experience the first time. Peter sorry to have missed everyone at Easter and Kev I have been meaning to call you for a while. Those sugar pine logs are just itchin to be milled into some sweet slabs of lumber. Tar--Don't know if I can make it to Josh for the Stonemaster party and auction but all the best to you!
Chappy
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 22, 2009 - 12:42am PT
In response to Clint's question earlier, the article is from Mountain #45, Sept./Oct. 1975.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/climber_plants/3465186968/[/img]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/climber_plants/3465187232/[/img]
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 22, 2009 - 01:40am PT
Thanks, Stephen!
The links work, and here are your scans directly:



To show the scans directly, I used your links and clicked on the largest size of the scans, then right-clicked on the image to get the full URL, like
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3529/3465187232_47cf34f344_o.jpg
Then I put the [img ] and [/img ] tags around it (without the space before the ] ).
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 22, 2009 - 01:49am PT
Great article - thanks for scanning it. Besides Hot Line, it also includes The Free Blast, Astralman, Nose-in-a-day and several other classics! I remember reading it in the fall of 1975 and wondering if I had made the right choice about going to college instead of following my friends to Yosemite! (Seeing the 5.12 grade already, and barely being able to do 5.10, I felt OK with my choice :-) ).
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Apr 22, 2009 - 07:36am PT
Funny Clint. I started back to college the next year. Nothing like: "There is no success like failure..."
Double D

climber
Apr 22, 2009 - 08:16am PT
What an era of free-climbing activity. Those are all amazing routes. Thanks for the scan Clint.

Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 23, 2009 - 12:01am PT
Clint. Thanks for the tip. - SM
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
We just climbed Hot Line last weekend.
Thanks for ST forum for information- without it would not have an idea that mortal can climb it in spring.
Everything was same as on Clint photos , except that there is fixed rope from bottom to top of p3. This rope is not on the way, but dangerously worn out in the middle. I regret that we did not drop it off.
Approach from Elephant parking took us down about hour, but we wasted ~20 min trying to find passage between Elephant Rock and Elephant Graveyard. We found one on way down and anther on the way up and build a duck.
there is basically no trail or we did not find one.
All climb in the shade up to 3:30PM
Climbing felt very remote - despite all routes on the Cookie across Merced was taken by climbers. Cookie cliff was looking exactly like on page 46/47 (Reid 1998) with climbers on Hardd , OuterLimits, MeatGrinder, NabiscoWall and Catchy. All guys who were there -you can make a good trail to Hot Line next weekend.
Plumb Line on east Elephants - looks very impressive- striking line . Anyone who climbed it before- want to share beta ( gear/crux) for Plumb Line?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 28, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
Did the FA of Plumbline with Dale Bard and Bridwell, 35 years ago. The offsize 2nd pitch is hard - Dale led, I liebacked it with a top rope! The rest of the route is good rock, fun climbing, not too hard.

Nice topout, and an easy hike back to the car. Doubt it gets done much - out of sight, out of mind.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
Kevin, your comments about laybackin 10d ow pitch on Plimb line are not very encouraging, ha-ha.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:18pm PT
Well, Dale was an ace offwidth climber, as I've mentioned here before, unlike most climbers, his fist size takes over where his knee size cuts off, and that section is 4 to 5 inches, if I remember right, and with a good edge in a right angle corner.

With cams you could lieback it and protect it on lead easily!

Bridwell definitely took Dale as the ropegun for that pitch.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
Kevin, thanks. It looks from below that second pitch wide section not very long, like 25-30 feet and than become hands size?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 28, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
That sounds right, shorter offsize section if anything.

I remember the last pitch being pretty fun mixed climbing.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
Cool, Alexey - I'm glad to hear you got right on Hotline, and that the approach from above was not too bad.
flamer

Trad climber
denver
Apr 28, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
Double..D Wrote:
"PS did the crappy rap anchors ever get replaced? "

Yes.

A couple of years ago I went up with a partner and replaced 2 bolts.
1 On the anchor directly below the last pitch....and the lead bolt on the last pitch.

I replaced the lead bolt On lead, by hand...with out weighting the old one. It was an interesting way to do it!

I remember the rest of the anchors were good enough we didn't replace anything.

The bolts were supplied by the ASCA.

josh

Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 28, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
thanks Clint for your trip report
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
May 19, 2009 - 10:45pm PT
Hey everybody,

My partner and I checked out Hotline this Sunday, and I just wanted to echo what Alexey said... "there is basically no trail or we did not find one." The part near the rim is apparent enough, just walk straight out to Elephant Rock from highway 41 and then once you hit the rim walk east for 5-10 minutes until you see some cairns marking a chute down between Elephant Rock and Elephant's Graveyard. After that, sooner rather than later, things degrade into vertical meadows of poison oak and slippery leaves. At least we had a copious supply of animal spirit guides (mosquitoes). Actually, I have poison oak starting to pop up all over my body right now! I won't ever go back to do the approach from above. It sucks.

We climbed up to the bottom of the 10d flare pitch (first 5 pitches) and then did 3 rappels with two 60m ropes to get to the ground. There are bolted rap stations at the tops of P2, P3 and P5. Also, there's a slung block at the top of P4. We freed everything but P2, which we aided almost entirely. Doing it this way makes it very accessible to a 5.10 climber.

Also, I dropped off the fixed line from the top of p3, coiled it, and left it at the base. The biners used to anchor it were safely carried to the ground and left with the rope. It had a huge core shot in the middle... more than 6 inches of the core was completely exposed. In my opinion, it was also an eyesore. I'd have probably dropped it even if it weren't dangerous.

Embarrassingly, we were so fed up with the approach from 41, we decided to scope out the river and possibly try to swim across the Merced and then hitchike back up to the car. There are a few places where the river is calm enough and broken up by islands that it was very tempting to try (for future reference, we climbed the route on May 17, 2009). This didn't work. We also tried to hike out east along the river on what started out as a pretty good trail. This also didn't work when the trail died out somewhere past the Rostrum. Long story short, we had to bivy and then backtrack up to the car the next day, making our friends and loved ones worried sick (they had also called NPS when we hadn't shown up at home on Sunday night, prompting them to start looking for us.) So make fun of us or whatever... yeah, we're stupid, but maybe this info will be useful for somebody.

 Justin
WBraun

climber
May 19, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
Pitch 2 is a 5.10A hand crack.

You are saying you broke the first pitch into 2 mini pitches.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 19, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
The guidebook topo (1982, 1987 at least) breaks it that way.
I can see that linking those to the end of the traverse is better if you are freeing it, since you don't create a rest just before it starts getting hard.
WBraun

climber
May 19, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
It's wrong Clint.

The reason is because the FA party only belayed there because that's where they stopped free climbing and it is not a natural belay. It's slightly overhanging at that spot.

If you do the route free and you belay at that spot which is only about 60 feet off the ground and then do the rest of the pitch as a second pitch you've really rested in the middle of a real full pitch as you mentioned also.

That bolt there was removed at one time and someone replaced it. Kind of goofy way of climbing, hanging in the middle of a pitch.

On the Crimson Cringe Bachar removed Jardine's belay bolts at the start of the under-cling to make the Cringe a real full pitch instead of breaking it apart in so many different ways.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 20, 2009 - 12:16am PT
Hey P-King, if you're still in the ditch you should go do Hotline!
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 28, 2012 - 11:58am PT
Want to update this tread since I had opportunity to finish the route.
Last time we climbed - we stop short below the wild 10d bombay flare.
This time we climbed it. This pitch is something. Never had such brutal climbs before.
You basically paste your knee at one wall and feet and shoulders on opposite one. But configuration of the flare, its angle and absence of holds/features on the walls make upper progress very difficult. And when you move one knee up you feel excruciating pain on the other even with knee pads. The pitch is relatively short , but take a lot of skin away. There is opportunity for good gear placement in the corner, but it is not continues line and it has some gaps.
It is really difficult to find good comparable route for this pitch. Probably closest I climbed with similar moves and rating was- 1096 10d** -but it felt like cruiser in comparison.
Next time if I would be there I definitely will take Werner 11d variation instead. It looks that it mostly good hands with short roof (crux) which can be easily aded with couple pulls on gear.
micronut

Trad climber
Aug 28, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
Hard core, man!
Well done.
"Never had such brutal climbs before...." Awesome quote!
pvalchev

Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
Oct 17, 2012 - 11:15pm PT
Bump - thanks for the beta and photos! Everyone should do Hotline - the pitch 2 (or pitch 3 in original book) hand crack is orgasmic! Best 5.10 crack in the valley?

Pitch 1 - super fun spare the loose blocks, we aided the traverse (and the body length below it - damn, hard!) Pitch 2 - no words can describe it. Pitch 4/5 I linked (our 3rd pitch), but wished I saved my #3 for the end - 5.8 fists to the belay at the end. That pitch felt similar to Gripper's first pitch, easier but not by much and also had some loose blocks. Rapped from there, a nice afternoon. Have to return for the last pitch. I wish we traversed right & rapped like Clint described (and did that other splitter) - rappelling down the route there is a potential for ropes to get stuck on the first rappel - as can be witnessed by 3-4 kinds of ropes stuck behind a block. We had no issues, but were a bit nervous.

We didn't find the trail on the way up at all after crossing the river (there are too many "monster boulders" in my opinion), bushwhacked a bit (30-40 mins), on the way down it was easy to follow and very quick.

The amazing Hotline hand crack from the approach. Wow!
The amazing Hotline hand crack from the approach. Wow!
Credit: pvalchev
The first pitch roof - 5.10 awesome (but there are some loose bloc...
The first pitch roof - 5.10 awesome (but there are some loose blocks/care needed lower down pitch)
Credit: pvalchev
It does not get much better than that! You don't really need to put an...
It does not get much better than that! You don't really need to put any gear on the whole pitch, bomber hand crack!
Credit: pvalchev
Pitch 4 (our pitch 3)
Pitch 4 (our pitch 3)
Credit: pvalchev
End of pitch 3 (where we rapped)
End of pitch 3 (where we rapped)
Credit: pvalchev
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Oct 31, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
Bump for hotline. Super cool route, was actually popular this past weekend.


Werner, can you fill in some history on the 12a fingers variation you did?

Sweet photo of Kauk on Hotline.
Sweet photo of Kauk on Hotline.
Credit: Patagonia.com

 Luke
Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews