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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Apr 13, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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Warbler wrote: "Did ya ever do The Cringe, John?"
Yeah but that crack changes sizes so everyone has a weird section. The thin hands before it arches left is tricky for me but you can power through if you don't hang about placing gear.
JL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
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"Yin Yang"
oh sh#t, I think that was in the grouping I'm talking about as well. Totally fergot.
Looks like we have reached full 10d spread Cap'n. All posts welcome (cept political).
But does anyone else recall this grouping of 10d climbs? A sort of mythical small collection of 10d's that were part of a circuit that meant something significant when taken together?
Was it just me and too much budweiser juice?
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 10:15pm PT
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first two pitches of Moratorium both 10d.
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Apr 13, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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My sole claim at a 5.10d resides on the list: "Lazy Bum." It can't be that big of a deal if even I made it. . . . Corbett used to drag me around for short climbs and a six pack after work, and this was one of them. Others rated lower were harder than this one, I thought.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 14, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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The Tube was one of those 10d's that seemed harder than the grade, it either worked or not, no in between. Anyone else have this experience?
The Wafer was gripping enough to make Bev's the approach of choice after a late afternoon sweat-fest, eh Mighty Hiker?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Apr 14, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Munge said:
"But does anyone else recall this grouping of 10d climbs? A sort of mythical small collection of 10d's that were part of a circuit that meant something significant when taken together? "
I remember. When you and I started climbing together in 1992 I talked to you on a few occasions about "the six" Valley 5.10d inch and a quarter cracks. It was a list of routes I'd been working on redpointing. I felt like these were the ultimate "rattley fingers" climbs in the Valley. It was just my own grouping of climbs. I think I said something to you like "if you can lead all of these you can lead any 5.10 crack, anywhere." Sound familiar, or is my memory way too old?
My list of six was:
1. Cramming,
2. Manana,
3. The Thief,
4. Finger Lickin',
5. Vanishing Point,
6. Five and Dime.
EDIT: The key to these six was that each had an inch and a quarter section that you had to do to do the climb. There are lots of 5.10d cracks in the Valley, but these six stood out for that reason. I've always wondered whether Final Exam should be on the list, but I've never gotten up to do it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
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thx Brad. that may just explain it.
I don't remember the crack size discussion, but the climb sizes and names seem to match that well.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 14, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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10.d burl factor=Childhoods End (in 1 long pitch)
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Apr 15, 2009 - 10:56am PT
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This one is superb (best done when it's NOT 108 degreesF):
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Apr 15, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
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"The Tube was one of those 10d's that seemed harder than the grade"
Maybe cause it is? My Reid/Meyers guide shows .11a, which I believe is the consensus.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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bump because I need to get back into crack and long free lines to improve the aerobic.
off to the gym in 20 min...
any good stories of pushing 5.10 routes that were hard for you?
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 27, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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Largo sez that Edge of Night is rated 5.10c but is almost certainly 10d. Bat Crack at Tahquitz is another great 10d. The list goes on . . .
JL
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2011 - 12:26am PT
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Warbler,
Reid guide calls it 11a (1994 and 1987).
Is that one of your routes?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 28, 2011 - 12:59am PT
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Damn dude, that Windfall sounds like the plum pickins right there. I actually got up, found a pen, and put it on the list.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 28, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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11a+?
Heh
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Feb 28, 2011 - 01:33am PT
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Windfall is the hardest 11a I've ever done. The roof is so hard and the splitter overhanging handcrack is sick but also hard for 11a. True one of the hidden gems in the Valley that hardly gets done.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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I was super psyched to climb English Breakfast Crack on sight. The whole time through the crux at the end I was thinking, "f*#king hell this is hard for 5.10c." And I felt like I didn't bring nearly enough gear, what with having spent the previous 6 months climbing exclusively in Joshua Tree on an anemic rack. Even now, thinking back, it felt harder than P1 of The Vampire on Tahquitz I think.
Most of the rest of the stuff in Yos valley I can't comment on, as I haven't been on it. Although, I'd maybe add Mark of Art to the list for .10d hardmen. That thing felt ungodly pumpy.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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all 10d's should either be upgraded or downgraded. if downgraded, they should be downgraded to 10b's. 10b's can be impossible (in the way certain children can be impossible), and are generally not worth the effort, for the faint glory involved. 10c's are much easier to climb than 10b's.
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Impaler
Gym climber
Vancouver
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I'm surprised that Lord Caffeine isn't considered "the hardest 10d". Or is it just SO sandbagged that it just can't possibly be a 10d? Felt more like 11d to me.
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mctwisted
Social climber
superslacker city
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lucho, i remember that windfall being superproud, and a great workout hike to get there. excellant location,and never a line at the base! thanks werner for bringing me up there.
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