"The 10d Crack" Hardman List

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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Apr 10, 2009 - 07:10pm PT
I thread drifted out of the valley with that comment. But...I'd say Moritorium feels easier to me than the Good Book. Subjective stuff!


Edit: I don't think Moritorium is soft, just that some hard 10s are burly for the grade.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
Alexey,

> are you also think that Little Wing is harder than Finger Licking?

No, but if I hadn't finally decided to try the kneebar, I might have been totally stopped there. As it was, my long reach helped a lot, too.
I have not led either climb.
I do remember my partner floated Finger Lickin' very nicely, then struggled quite a bit on Little Wing, but I think she was in much better shape at the time we did Finger Lickin'.

> what is the essence of this climb?
Little Wing?
It is two left-facing corners, with a rest in between if you find it. The first corner is steep, with long reaches between good locks. The second corner is less steep on the left wall, but overhanging on the right wall, and the crack is mostly closed. There are a couple of places in the upper corner where you could get your fingers in, and/or put pro. I used a kneebar to get started on the upper corner.
don't have one

climber
Apr 10, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
Serenity seems kinda lite for 10d.
Waverly Wafer seems impossible for 10c.

Seems like this thread should be expanded to other trad areas where that "10d" grade holds true.
Eldo: How about Kings X and The Diving Board, or Le Toit?
South Platte: How about Drumstick Direct?
Indian Creek: Vision Quest
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 10, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
mooser wrote:

"I think so many routes are called 10d because when they were first done, the first ascentionists said, "Nah...couldn't be 11."

I was reluctant to rate the Bircheff Williams first pitch any harder than 10d, and in that era, the early seventies, it happened a lot.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 10, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
hum, I have climbed almost all of the original list. I would agree with who ever said EBC is dang hard. It sure was for me when I led it in 76 sins cams. Lennie Meany is graded just right IMHO. Catchy is a one move wonder. How about some hardman 10d like steppin out. Now thats is hard.
climbingbuzz

Trad climber
SF, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 10:26pm PT
Final exam...oooo...i bet that feels harder than 10d with one #3.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Apr 10, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
I think 10.96 and Lord Caffiene are pretty stout .10d's.



martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 10, 2009 - 10:43pm PT
my advice to folks who are aspiring to the 10d range in the valley, just go get on some 11a or b, you will be surprised at how many you pull off. Once you get to 11c or d the grade starts to have a noticeable difference between 10d....once again imho. Old timers please chimne in. Wabler, bf is solid 11b in my view btw.
Bill

climber
San Francisco
Apr 10, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
Interesting - I thought EBC was solid 10c, but no harder - certainly easier than Waverly. 5 and Dime, Book of Revelations, Hardly Pinnacle, Mark of Art, Yin Yang are all good...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:38am PT
One thing about the crux of English Breakfast Crack (end of p2) is that it helps greatly if you have long arms and small fingers. I have those, so it did not feel hard to me, but if I could not have reached that stuff or gotten good locks, it would have been desperate.
JOEY.F

Social climber
sebastopol
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:44am PT
I need a month in the valley.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:56am PT
Maybe it's my fat hands, but the Center on Independence seemed harder than all those other 10ds and I've done most of them. For me, putting the Good Book (simple if you're in shape) in the same league with Independence Center is just wrong.

JL
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 11, 2009 - 02:06am PT
great thread.

finger lickin' was a route i did almost monthly in the mid-80's,and the grade always seemed right on to me, but then i never gave it much thought.

i suppose it's worth mentioning that size matters?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 11, 2009 - 02:10am PT
I think it's the sausage digits, Johnny Man.

Center Route of Independence is steep and cranker, but it's over quick. And tight locks.
Rankin

climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 11, 2009 - 03:41am PT
Somebody mentioned Waverly Wafer, I actually could agree to that, compared to some of the other routes on the list. I first heard of it as 10c, then I've seen it as 11a. 10d seems about right. What a great grade in the Valley. Not the hardest pitch on the route by grade, but the 10d pitch on the Rostrum is sneaky. The first time I did the route, my partner did every other pitch clean, but fell at the crux on that one.
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
The American West
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
Yes!! Lord Caffeine is should definitely be on the list in my opinion. A seriously burly crack.
And I thought Butterfingers was maybe the easiest 11a I've done in the valley, quite a bit easier for me than LC.
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Apr 12, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
It goes to show it all varies. I thought 10c for Waverly about right. I get a stem coming over the roof and the jam/lieback section is short (I jam more than lb). On the other hand, I find Mark of Art harder just because the jams/lb go on longer.

Manana is a fun climb (minus the first 30 feet), but it is really only two moves. The butterfly jam above the roof and then the fingertip move at the exit. Has anybody mentioned Ying Yang? Clean and nicely sustained. This would seem a much better candidate to add to the 10d Hardman list.

As to the question of what 11a is easier, I don't find Hardd (11b) really any harder than, say, finger lickin (which isn't to say that I find either easy).
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
The American West
Apr 12, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
Yo Rankin, good call on the Rostrum 10d pitch. You're talking about the one down there right? Or is that 11a in the book? Either way, sneaky for sure.
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Apr 12, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
How about Mark of Art. That's one long great pitch.
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 13, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
Nice thread... bump.

I followed Serenity crux cleanly at a time when I thought most 5.10 climbing was out of reach... so it must be light! No 10d on my resume yet but I'm getting closer. I got a few 10b/c on-sites last season.

This list will fuel my aspirations if I string together enough time on the rock this season... more craggin', less cheatin' the reaper!
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