"The 10d Crack" Hardman List

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 130 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 10, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
Crucifix, the way Bridwell and I did it (with aid), has plenty 'o 10d.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2009 - 05:43pm PT
Survival, hey if the old dads on this forum say youz is a hard man, then you can claim hard man status.

:)

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Apr 10, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
I say:

Out with Serenity. Great climb, very short crux.

In with the Good Book. (though not climbable now cause of rock fall??)



Ten Days/Years After, the amphitheatre one, I think is 10d, lots of finger locks???

Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 05:50pm PT
The Warbler wrote:
"What about English Breakfast Crack and Leanie Meanie - aren't those 10d?"

It is interesting point because I always felt that English Breakfast Crack (10c) - is underrated and Leanie Meanie ( 11b) is overrated.
They can be both in 10d list with note "can't get any harder 10d" for Leanie Meanie
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 10, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
Leanie Meanie is over with pretty quick, just a few insecure lieback moves, and then some pumpy jamming, as I remember.

I also remember thinking that EBC must've been one of the hardest routes in the Valley, when it was first freed, early to mid sixties, I think.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 10, 2009 - 05:59pm PT
Kevin,

I've got a big grin going here. Just goes to show you how a climb can be so different for different guys on different days.
Too funny. EB was definitely hard for me, but I was climbing well and I thought it was 10c, so....it was!!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:02pm PT
The Wafer.

Crux of the Nabisco Wall for me...

Hard to protect with nuts.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
ME TOO!
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
I have done a pretty good number of those 10d routes and thought English Breakfast Crack (which is only rated 10c), was harder than any of the 10d routes. Of the ones I have done, I did most of them onsight so far, not Finger Lickin' missed the big jug on the right at the beginning coming out of the steep start. This is my little climbing game, to try to onsight the 10d cracks in the valley. EBC completely stopped me the other weekend though, =( full stoppage. I was so sad. That fingers in the back of the horrid flare at the top totally shut me down. I was 2 moves from the end...damn...



Nice list though, I still have quite a few routes to do in order to do all the classic 10d's!


Edit:

I thought Little Wing was a lot harder than Finger Lickin'. In fact, I think Little Wing was the hardest (most awkward?) 10d I have done yet.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
"Ten Days/Years After, the amphitheatre one, I think is 10d, lots of finger locks???"

Yes, lots of finger locks. No thin hands. I'll go with you guys about the .10d here then. Like I said, I wasn't sure. Great climb tho.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
Kris,

[5.10d on Central Pillar of Frenzy]
> As I recall it was making the transition and the following commitment which was cruxy. Not pure crack climbing in any case.
Cool - I changed it on the list on my PC.

> The thing I remember most about that ascent was looking down and watching some dirtball going through our packs at the base while we were up there...
Was it this guy: ?


(October 2005)
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
haha, oh man, that is a bummer.

He is a pretty bear though, nice and brown, not the golden/tan color you normally see them having. Big guy too!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
Is it my imagination, or is 10d harder than 11b? Always seems that way to me, anyway. I think so many routes are called 10d because when they were first done, the first ascentionists said, "Nah...couldn't be 11." I wonder (this is about as scientific as I'll ever get) what the date clusters are for Valley 10d's relative to the breakthrough and regularity of 11s. If that scientific "wondering" doesn't make sense when you read it, it's probably because my mind is so advanced it can't articulate in simpler ways. Yeah, that's it.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
> The Wafer.
> Crux of the Nabisco Wall for me...
> Hard to protect with nuts.

It's still hard, even with cams. Before cams, you had to be darn good to climb 5.10s at the Cookie.

Rated 5.11a in the supertopo guide!
5.10c in my list, as its "traditional" rating.
Definitely a classic; listed as a lieback, so I didn't include it in that other thread.
Pennsylenvy

Big Wall climber
Memomma, Isle
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
Is this why we like trundling soo much???
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
> I think Little Wing was the hardest (most awkward?) 10d I have done yet.

Did you use a kneebar to get past that blank section in the upper flaring corner? I did this a couple of months ago; alternatives seemed much harder. Glad I was on toprope.
pip the dog

Mountain climber
planet dogboy
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
i agree with mooser.

many older .10d's are notably harder than many newer .11a/b's -- not only in the valley, but most everywhere with some real history. and i agree with his theory as to why.

^,,^
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
Clint,
are you also think that Little Wing is harder than Finger Licking?
what is the essence of this climb?
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
Agreed that lots of 10ds are harder than some 11a/bs. Also, always give a "5.10+" your full attention!
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 10, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
What "soft" 11a cracks in the Valley you have in mind which easier than standard 10d? I do not know any...
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