The history of New Dimensions?

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Messages 101 - 104 of total 104 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
CalicoJack

climber
CA
May 21, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
New Dimensions bump!
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
May 22, 2013 - 09:02am PT
I didn't see when the chipping occured...am I blind?

Also was it chipped prior to Bachar soloing it?
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Jan 30, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
Bump for one badass route.

Things I couldn't find on New D, now after three goes on it:

-A chiseled hold on p1. There is that one smooth, flat edge off the blunt right side of the crack, tiny, useful, but part of a larger horizontal imperfection there, doesn't look like it was crafted from scratch.

-A chiseled hold on p4. That bending, helix-like corner is so clean it hurts.

-Any way to get the p4, pre-crux tight hands climbing to feel 5.10. Bodylength "crux" fingerlocks up top are cake comparatively. How the hell do you climb that long rattly section @ 5.10, from where the decent hands end to where the good fingers begin? Felt desperate and I dogged it all three times I was up there. The .11a pulls up top come as a relief...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 12, 2014 - 12:51am PT
New D was my first 5.11 lead in Yosemite and it took everything that I had to not butterfinger right off the final jugs.

The crux pitch on a rack of nuts was pretty interesting with one fixed angle in place when I was there. I was beyond impressed when JB free soloed it because it is a bad size for everyone in the last corner.

Still the standard for 5.11a after all these years.
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