Cerro Torre- the lie and the desecration


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Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jan 10, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
Bump for a great thread.

Just a note to honour those who made the first (edit) unquestioned ascent of Cerro Torre, in January 1974, via the west face.

Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari and Pino Negri, members of the Lecco Spiders.

Edit: the Italian wikipedia page shows the ascent in 1973:

Following is a memorial/monument atop Grignetta, a small but imposing peak that towers above Lago di Como and Lecco in Northern Italy:

It is easy to see why having such a back yard "crag" would inspire so many noteworthy climbers. I took this pic a few weeks ago:

From this spot (if you rotated a quarter or half turn to your right, you can see Monte Rosa, Matterhorn (Il Cervino), Eiger, Jungrau, Mönch, and a bazillion mountains that go on forever in a 270 degree arc. The rest of the circle you have to content yourself with this view of the valleys and lakes.

I'm bringing crampons for my next trip!

Edit: Random trivia point I just discovered, I share a birthday with Cesare Maestri.
Rocky IV

Social climber
Jan 10, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
I shared some belays last summer on the Hulk with a couple Argentinean climbers. Inevitably the topic of the chopping came up and they were adamant that the bolts should have never been chopped, equating the bolt ladders on CT to the final ladder on the Nose.

El cap is a completely frivolous climb, if you really want to stand on top all you need is a pair of shoes. Cerro Torre is a incredible mountain that deserves inaccessibility. If there's one place that ethics matter it is in the Torres. Or at least that's what I told them, they remained unconvinced.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
You did your best Rocky....I agree with your point of view.

Jan 10, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
Here is a question... Why are we still arguing about this? its over, the bolts are chopped... Can we turn are attention to something more fruitful? We could argue about the masses of other route that were "stolen from the future" via bolting and fixed ropes. The Korean route on Gasherbrum IV (1997), the japanese Direttissima on the Eigar (1970) and Royal Flush on Fitzroy (1995) are all shining example of heavy-handed style that deserve constructive criticism.
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