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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Fer sure it's acceptable. I'm a HUGE puss compared to my teens and twenties. To ACT like a puss is UNacceptable! Adding bolts so you can do the route...unacceptable, nut up and get better
Hey Werner do you figure in the mix?
Peace
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Does this have anything to do with "getting in touch with your feminine side"?
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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The Evil Barbarian himself is any thing but a pu$$y. If I was ever in a bad spot I would want him to be my partner to help me get out of it.
You could take a groundfall in more than one place on that route and after the fact.. It still has a lot of spice to it. I still will probably never lead it.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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There are various reasons for adding bolts to a climb. The fact that the first ascent party is no longer climbing as well as they used to and/or has lost their youthful taste for risk, is not one of them, in my opinion.
We old folks (and I'm one of the oldest here I suspect) need to adjust to the ravages of time. That adjustment ought to be a personal reckoning, not an effort to remake the world to suit our diminished capabilities.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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yeah, what Dickbob said, it's good to keep in mind in all this, though I know that for all who actually know who we are talking about it's old news. An Eagle Scout, that barbarian definitely has some superhero aspects, I've seen him save lives, lead the last pitch of powerpoint in the rain, that sort of thing...
I am generally of Rgold's point of view, but I suspect that the barbarian's retrobolting was an attempt to fix a route that had a problem more than making it easier for himself, but i'm only guessing.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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a broken hip will kill a lot of people, so it is smart to back up off of it if your brain says so.
i'm on a Death trip, i'm trying to kill myself.
tried everything, the Chronic, the JD, no luck yet, so this better work.
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ec
climber
ca
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Yeah, but the route should stay as it was. There are some routes that I put up that I will not do now because I not able or willing to take that risk as I would have years ago. There are plenty of challenges remaining that I haven't done yet...climbingwise and not. The fact is, at this stage of the 'game' I need not waste any time repeating many routes. Give me something new!
 ec
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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just bolt it, but clean the bolts on the way up.
if someone else wants more bolts, its cake.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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a wise friend once posed the question, would you let your girlfriend lead it?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Wow - I can't believe you guys retrobolted your *own* route!
Truly you are pussies. Please don't do that to any of my routes [which I could no longer climb]
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Maybe it's more about developing a more forgiving nature towards future (potential) ascentionists as we grow older?
I mean, we WANT people to do our climbs, right?
That's my story and I am sticking to it. 8^D
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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On a lighter note you might be amused to learn that pussig in Norwegian is pronounced virtually the same as pussy in English but means comical, funny, or amusing. So I guess we're just getting more amusing as we age.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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For those who say "Leave the Route Alone" What do you suggest for people who feel like they made a mistake in their style or decision during the first ascent of their route?
There are plenty of 5.13 climbers who can run it out on 5.10. If they were to break up with their girlfriend and put up a fine 5.10 death route that even they don't respect as a good collaboration with the stone, should that be required to stand forever if they think better of it?
If you still think it should stand, does that also mean overbolted, rap-bolted, squeeze job routes should also remain un-chopped, unaltered? Can you hang with the first ascent remaining the same no matter what?
Or are you just taking a stand for danger, no matter what?
I certainly hope that those who stand for danger no matter what actually go repeat some of these death climbs collecting dust and rusty bolts
PEace
Karl
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Original Punk
Boulder climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Come on Lazy Eye,
Just cause you were the belayer doesn't mean you did the first ascent(note, troll smell). I enjoyed this route as is and chucked laps on it many times. Same with L.Ron Hubbard. Those routes are midly run out to be honest. Also same thing happened to me by same mentioned party, except Evil Barbarians partner put in some of the bolts originally with me. Fortunatly I still have many routes that were way more run out than these and have 1 or no bolts. Blasphemy to call Evil Barbarian pu$$y, especially from a freakin Californian (ha, ha, I probably know you). Shame, shame to suggest that they be removed. To anyone that can't help themselves about debating bolts up there, please... shhhhhh. Not appropriate for NATIONAL forums if you care about keeping the mystic of the place. True Zoners don't care what anyone thinks! Game on.
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Original Punk
Boulder climber
Boulder, Colorado
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P.S. Most run outs were due to dirt poor climbers- "Hmmm, that route looks really good but I only have 5 hangers. That might not be enough....screw it... put me on belay." Having an additional bolt put in on one of your routes is better than having them freakin chipped and chiseled as some of my routes in Queen Creek were vandalized. It was really fun to find out about it when someone asked me why I chiseled holds in on "that route".
That was like geting kicked in the stomach, or maybe like Sllim Nek getting punched in the face.
R Fields
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