Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Depends, which route?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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with a wrench in his pocket?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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The regular retro bolting that goes on is just too confusing on just what is what. Thank Satan for pink bolts.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I don't think I'm one to weigh in on this, but that is an interesting and unexpected development.
pink Is a nice touch, though.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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pinko bolts?
commie bolts?
what next?!?!
tough call on the retro bolting. To say that since you could do it back then but not now to me doesn't justify retro bolting it. IF you said today - we should have added more bolts back when we established it - at least carries some water even if the bag is leaking.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Thumbs up for the pinkos.
But to answer; the title has it right. It depends on how many $$ you have.
(but apparently not your wife LOL)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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How about socialist bolts?
But pink is nice. . .
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Testosterone production declines after the age of 25, or so.I think your willingness (need) to run it out declins in proportion to your testosterone levels.
Ever consider HGH?
Oops, thats another thread . . .
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I believe there was some such talk, bitd, but that might have been by those of us who were asceered of leading it.
after that Frank, maybe some Zappa, wet T-shirt night...
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luggi
Trad climber
Atwater, CA
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DMT...do you enjoy all the tacos or as you get older you become more wise and know what who is a good "chef" and who would be a bad "cook".
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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weakwrist needs to ask again in a few decades,..
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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I Tr-ed it,
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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You Pu$$y!
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WBraun
climber
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The stringent conditions of the material laws of nature, birth, death, old age, and disease are the sum total of all the problems of material existence and can never be solved by any plan made by human beings.
Thus you're all pussies to begin with and will remain so .....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Who is to talk about acceptable? We become pussies sooner or later as we get older whether we accept it or not!
Still, in your case it's strange since you're the FA party, retroing your own route. You are arguing for the bold alternative but let your partner retro-bolt the route so you're both pussies of different sorts.
Ok, not really in my mind but I wanted to write that.
Maybe it's more subtle than that. What were the original motives?
There are quite a few cases out there of folks who put up dangerous or death routes to prove their ego BITH and now wish the fine routes would be enjoyed and don't want anybody to die. I'd say that's worth a retrobolt if you're the FA party to begin with. After all, we should be able to correct our mistakes if that's what we think they are.
Of course, some routes somehow start to belong to the community and a community discussion could be in order. If Bachar gets senile and goes pussy on us, I wonder what folks might say if he wanted to retro Bachar-Yerian? He could probably get away with "Solitary Confinement"
Peace
Karl
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Werner: hahahahahaha! You 'da man!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Lazy Eye- as long as they're dosed! Was the 88 BF on the west side?
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Pussy...another dumbed down climb by the "future" generation.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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keep 'em coming, Lazy eye!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Fer sure it's acceptable. I'm a HUGE puss compared to my teens and twenties. To ACT like a puss is UNacceptable! Adding bolts so you can do the route...unacceptable, nut up and get better
Hey Werner do you figure in the mix?
Peace
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Does this have anything to do with "getting in touch with your feminine side"?
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Dickbob
climber
Colorado
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The Evil Barbarian himself is any thing but a pu$$y. If I was ever in a bad spot I would want him to be my partner to help me get out of it.
You could take a groundfall in more than one place on that route and after the fact.. It still has a lot of spice to it. I still will probably never lead it.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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There are various reasons for adding bolts to a climb. The fact that the first ascent party is no longer climbing as well as they used to and/or has lost their youthful taste for risk, is not one of them, in my opinion.
We old folks (and I'm one of the oldest here I suspect) need to adjust to the ravages of time. That adjustment ought to be a personal reckoning, not an effort to remake the world to suit our diminished capabilities.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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yeah, what Dickbob said, it's good to keep in mind in all this, though I know that for all who actually know who we are talking about it's old news. An Eagle Scout, that barbarian definitely has some superhero aspects, I've seen him save lives, lead the last pitch of powerpoint in the rain, that sort of thing...
I am generally of Rgold's point of view, but I suspect that the barbarian's retrobolting was an attempt to fix a route that had a problem more than making it easier for himself, but i'm only guessing.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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a broken hip will kill a lot of people, so it is smart to back up off of it if your brain says so.
i'm on a Death trip, i'm trying to kill myself.
tried everything, the Chronic, the JD, no luck yet, so this better work.
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ec
climber
ca
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Yeah, but the route should stay as it was. There are some routes that I put up that I will not do now because I not able or willing to take that risk as I would have years ago. There are plenty of challenges remaining that I haven't done yet...climbingwise and not. The fact is, at this stage of the 'game' I need not waste any time repeating many routes. Give me something new!
 ec
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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just bolt it, but clean the bolts on the way up.
if someone else wants more bolts, its cake.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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a wise friend once posed the question, would you let your girlfriend lead it?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Wow - I can't believe you guys retrobolted your *own* route!
Truly you are pussies. Please don't do that to any of my routes [which I could no longer climb]
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Maybe it's more about developing a more forgiving nature towards future (potential) ascentionists as we grow older?
I mean, we WANT people to do our climbs, right?
That's my story and I am sticking to it. 8^D
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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On a lighter note you might be amused to learn that pussig in Norwegian is pronounced virtually the same as pussy in English but means comical, funny, or amusing. So I guess we're just getting more amusing as we age.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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For those who say "Leave the Route Alone" What do you suggest for people who feel like they made a mistake in their style or decision during the first ascent of their route?
There are plenty of 5.13 climbers who can run it out on 5.10. If they were to break up with their girlfriend and put up a fine 5.10 death route that even they don't respect as a good collaboration with the stone, should that be required to stand forever if they think better of it?
If you still think it should stand, does that also mean overbolted, rap-bolted, squeeze job routes should also remain un-chopped, unaltered? Can you hang with the first ascent remaining the same no matter what?
Or are you just taking a stand for danger, no matter what?
I certainly hope that those who stand for danger no matter what actually go repeat some of these death climbs collecting dust and rusty bolts
PEace
Karl
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Original Punk
Boulder climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Come on Lazy Eye,
Just cause you were the belayer doesn't mean you did the first ascent(note, troll smell). I enjoyed this route as is and chucked laps on it many times. Same with L.Ron Hubbard. Those routes are midly run out to be honest. Also same thing happened to me by same mentioned party, except Evil Barbarians partner put in some of the bolts originally with me. Fortunatly I still have many routes that were way more run out than these and have 1 or no bolts. Blasphemy to call Evil Barbarian pu$$y, especially from a freakin Californian (ha, ha, I probably know you). Shame, shame to suggest that they be removed. To anyone that can't help themselves about debating bolts up there, please... shhhhhh. Not appropriate for NATIONAL forums if you care about keeping the mystic of the place. True Zoners don't care what anyone thinks! Game on.
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Original Punk
Boulder climber
Boulder, Colorado
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P.S. Most run outs were due to dirt poor climbers- "Hmmm, that route looks really good but I only have 5 hangers. That might not be enough....screw it... put me on belay." Having an additional bolt put in on one of your routes is better than having them freakin chipped and chiseled as some of my routes in Queen Creek were vandalized. It was really fun to find out about it when someone asked me why I chiseled holds in on "that route".
That was like geting kicked in the stomach, or maybe like Sllim Nek getting punched in the face.
R Fields
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| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
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