"Up rope I'm not moving!" First ascent of Basketcase

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 109 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 9, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
Classic story bump...
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box; Bay Area
Mar 9, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
What an amazing story.

Thanks, Mr Donini, for sharing;

Thanks Steve, for bumping.

We need more of these. *^_^*
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 24, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
What followed gave me the line that as a medicare climber I now use as my only climbing command..... "up rope, I'm not moving."
hilarious and inspiring ..
This medicare climber probably now moving up the Nose in the day
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 27, 2013 - 10:13am PT
just learned from friend meaning on "Basket Case"
urban dictionary definition:
A basketcase is common word used to describe a social outcast in school. Some characteristics of a basketcase included emotional instability, weirdness, and constant isolation from mainstream society. A basketcase is often independent and isolationist, in other words, anti-social.

This word was widely used in the 80s. Like most slang prior to the 90s, it has fallen into disuse. Today, a basketcase can be categorized in three groups known as the goth, emo, and punk.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
May 27, 2013 - 10:20am PT
Alexey, its original meaning of course is denoting someone who has lost all four limbs and so cannot move without help from others and fits nicely into a basket. Perhaps this is how they originally managed such victims, in a basket.

Alexey, you have to go do this route soon. You are ready.

(1) Start very early; no tardy business, running out of daylight before the critical part of the climb and rappelling off and (oh my god) hiking back out. Park at the Snow Creek sign on Tioga and walk down, following the dome fairly closely and traverse on the terraces mentioned earlier. Wear long pants.

(2) Bring a couple (not a zillion) large cams, like 3/#3, 2/#4, 1/#5, 1/#6 Camalots or equivalent plus a light assortment of regular stuff and runners. There are no bolts, last I knew.

(3) Do not do this route with just one rope. At least take a 9mm as a second rope.

(4) You will need water. You will also notice the altitude and you will be in the sun all day until you get to the summit chimneys. Bring a headlight and matches.

(5) The route can be done in about three hours at best, I would think but most likely twice as long, maybe even more.

(6) After the crux pitch, the climbing is no harder than 5.9 at most but is a bit junky and still has some spots in it so don't relax your guard after the 5.11c and when you are probably quite tired...

(7) There are NO secret holds inside or adjacent to the crux crack, tiny or big. There is no secret. It is what it is and must be offwidthed very very delicately.

(8) Falling out of the crux is quite safe so don't get fearful; you won't hit anything. But you also won't have enough gas to make more than two real genuine attempts at it. You and your belayer will not be able to see the crux, also. As you start, you will think that the climbing is wildly overrated and will be a snap. Then you turn the corner, out of view now, and face the real and very unique problem somewhat surprised.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 27, 2013 - 10:39am PT
I always thought it was a description of something that had been torn apart and was just a collection of it's components, with no constructive interaction left, like an old car for example. Or a person whose brain fits that description.

But Peter's right about the quadruple amputee.

Other than the fact that the formation is named Basket Dome, the name doesn't really fit. Maybe Klemens and Bridwell decided only a mental basket case would hike that far to suffer in a 4 pitch offsize crack. That was around the era when they climbed Geek Towers and chipped the word GEEK in the stone in large letters at the top...
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
May 27, 2013 - 10:59am PT
Great story and thread! Missed seeing/reading it before now.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 27, 2013 - 11:20am PT
thanks Peter for encouragement and the great tips.
Are you sure that parking would be Snow creek not -Porcupine creek ?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
May 27, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
Alexey, you are taking the Snow Creek trail south towards Half Dome/Tenaya Canyon then diverge from it cross country leftward approaching the west side of Basket Dome then dropping down in the shrub filled couloir along its emerging west face. I parked at Snow Creek trail x Hwy 120 to do this.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 27, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
Peter, that seems like a longer approach to me. There's a trail that links up to the Snow Creek Trail from the Porcupine Flat to North Dome Trail about half way out to North Dome. Are you advising using that to drop down in elevation via trail? The traverse westward after that descent from the Snow Creek Trail to the base of B Dome is really brushy, and a good distance. Plus Basket Case is further west by a ways even after you cross the creek which runs down the east gully of B Dome, and you have to gain elevation from that crossing to reach the base of the route.

It looks to me like you could hike out the North Dome Trail, descend the slope and gully on the west side of B Dome, and then traverse east along ledges to reach the base of the route most easily. Don't I remember you writing about that approach, Peter, or am I imagining things? (Again)

I scoped out an approach which would be a long rising traverse from over by Apathy Buttress that looked interesting, and very direct. There are a couple of questionable sections for 3rd classing, however.

Here's a way to look at these possibilities:

http://www.xrez.com/yose_proj/YEP_ortho/YEP_ortho_SLtiles.htm

The Apathy Buttress approach possibility roughly takes a 45 degree diagonal from the talus left of and above Apathy Buttress toward the terrace with a cluster of large trees about level with the start of Basket Case, and to the west. This terrace would be at the end of the descent from the North Dome Trail if you went that way, and at the start of the traverse eastward toward the route.

EDIT: On closer inspection, maybe the Valley up approach I'm suggesting doesn't start near Apathy buttress, but above the next low angle formation west - one with a long diagonal roof running up and left above the forest. I scoped it fairly carefully from several different viewpoints with binoculars, and I think it will go 3rd class. This would be doable when the Tioga Road is closed, and would eliminate all the extra mileage and elevation gain/loss/gain involved with the Snow Creek trail approach.

This approach could be an adventure in itself. Careful scrutiny of the High Rez image reveals a sinuous weakness which leads directly toward the traverse to the route.

Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
May 27, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Not sure, Kevin, if we aren't on the same page here. Take a trail from Tioga Road, follow it towards Tenaya Canyon, break off of it to follow the right/west face of Basket Dome as it starts to rise out of the slope down into Tenaya. Follow it and its brushy couloir down and around, then take the little ledges to the base of the left facing dihedral and start. And MAKE the climb, don't plan on hiking out of this situation.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 27, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
This map, Peter, is a simple illustration of the trails:

http://snri.ucmerced.edu/sites/snri/files/public/documents/YOSEMITE%20map.pdf

The Snow Creek turnoff from the Porcupine Flat parking area - North Dome Trail is not half way out, as I suggested upthread, but more like a third of the way out. It heads east toward Snow Creek. I think you just have the North Dome trail and Snow Creek trail mixed up.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
May 28, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
what Kevin said is correct approach (taken from other Basket tread ) start with North Dome trail at Porcupine Flat and after 2.5 miles just before North Dome turn right to Basket Dome and traverse it west face to the base of the route.
Credit: Alexey
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 28, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
There looks to be another traverse option over to Basketcase just below the upper one in your photo, Alexey. Not so much elevation loss that way

If you look carefully at the High Rez link above, and follow the down and westward green line in your photo (which descends to the lower traverse)past the lowest traverse and continue down and westward, you might see the Valley up approach I think will go.

There is one questionable section about half way from the base of Basket Dome to the forest.

Another possibility would be a giant switchback turning in the amphitheater below the waterfall that drops out of B Dome's east gully
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 5, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Big Donini bump!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Jun 6, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
BBST
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jun 6, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
ěnce again, do not take the lower of the two yellow paths to Basket Case. When you get closer, it all makes sense and you do a completely trivial traverse to the dihedral start.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 9, 2013 - 09:46am PT
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Jul 8, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
Yesterday Chad Suchoski {Salamanizer] and I climbed Basket Case.
Even after study high resolution photos - it was very hard to find the right approach.
The Route from the bottom of the climb looks really jaw-dropping.
Chad climbed crux pitch and all route in impressive stile and on-site.
He also made a photos of the approach and for all Basket Case pitches and trip repot coming soon.

I'd like to thank Jim Donini and Peter Haan for great stories they wrote about Basket Case.
Without those stories - I would not even think to climb this route.
And Peter, your gear beta and suggested logistic was right on!

Up Rope I am not moving!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 8, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
Chad is a beast!

Congrats to both of you for hitting the obscure.

Can't wait for the modern TR.
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