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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Thanks for the bump Steve. I was psyched you'd done that because I'd not seen this before...that is until I see I posted in April of 09. What a crudy memory I have! Still, great reading. :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2011 - 01:00am PT
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awesome line bump
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Powder
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Dec 22, 2011 - 05:30am PT
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Haha good one! Thanks for sharing the story, Mr Donini.
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YoungGun
climber
North
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Dec 22, 2011 - 09:27am PT
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A good laugh. Thanks for sharing!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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basketcase
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Dec 22, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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It was fun to read this story again.
It brings back the fond memories of the too few times I climbed with T.M.
I bet his grandchildren have a great time with him! He is such a funny guy.
Thanks Jim for the story.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 25, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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Classic story bump...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Nov 15, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Bump with a photo of the approach (an updated version of Zander's from upthread).
On the maybe someday list...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:17pm PT
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Culture, I believe you have it marked correctly in my experience. We traversed to the base of the very clean prominent dihedral rather than descending hundreds of feet only to then 3rd-4th class back up to it. The gully above was pretty fiercer vegetated, all pointing downwards and kind of steep.
If you look very very carefully on gigapan, you will see little terraces coming in from the left, leading to the dihedral, from the forested pedestals' uppermost reaches. My recollection is that we were rather surprised that the terraces miraculously worked out and actually lead us without further hassle, to the base of the roped pitches.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Nov 15, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Thanks for the bump and thanks for the link Werner
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Zander
climber
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
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I want to do Basketcase this year if I can get in shape. Last year I couldn't quite get fit but I have high hopes for this year.
Z
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 21, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
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One of the best stories on ST.
And stelor route which probably has one accent per year? Or less?
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Powder
Trad climber
the Flower Box; Bay Area
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What an amazing story.
Thanks, Mr Donini, for sharing;
Thanks Steve, for bumping.
We need more of these. *^_^*
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 24, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
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What followed gave me the line that as a medicare climber I now use as my only climbing command..... "up rope, I'm not moving." hilarious and inspiring ..
This medicare climber probably now moving up the Nose in the day
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
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just learned from friend meaning on "Basket Case"
urban dictionary definition:
A basketcase is common word used to describe a social outcast in school. Some characteristics of a basketcase included emotional instability, weirdness, and constant isolation from mainstream society. A basketcase is often independent and isolationist, in other words, anti-social.
This word was widely used in the 80s. Like most slang prior to the 90s, it has fallen into disuse. Today, a basketcase can be categorized in three groups known as the goth, emo, and punk.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 27, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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Alexey, its original meaning of course is denoting someone who has lost all four limbs and so cannot move without help from others and fits nicely into a basket. Perhaps this is how they originally managed such victims, in a basket.
Alexey, you have to go do this route soon. You are ready.
(1) Start very early; no tardy business, running out of daylight before the critical part of the climb and rappelling off and (oh my god) hiking back out. Park at the Snow Creek sign on Tioga and walk down, following the dome fairly closely and traverse on the terraces mentioned earlier. Wear long pants.
(2) Bring a couple (not a zillion) large cams, like 3/#3, 2/#4, 1/#5, 1/#6 Camalots or equivalent plus a light assortment of regular stuff and runners. There are no bolts, last I knew.
(3) Do not do this route with just one rope. At least take a 9mm as a second rope.
(4) You will need water. You will also notice the altitude and you will be in the sun all day until you get to the summit chimneys. Bring a headlight and matches.
(5) The route can be done in about three hours at best, I would think but most likely twice as long, maybe even more.
(6) After the crux pitch, the climbing is no harder than 5.9 at most but is a bit junky and still has some spots in it so don't relax your guard after the 5.11c and when you are probably quite tired...
(7) There are NO secret holds inside or adjacent to the crux crack, tiny or big. There is no secret. It is what it is and must be offwidthed very very delicately.
(8) Falling out of the crux is quite safe so don't get fearful; you won't hit anything. But you also won't have enough gas to make more than two real genuine attempts at it. You and your belayer will not be able to see the crux, also. As you start, you will think that the climbing is wildly overrated and will be a snap. Then you turn the corner, out of view now, and face the real and very unique problem somewhat surprised.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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May 27, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
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Great story and thread! Missed seeing/reading it before now.
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