Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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we should just go up and see, scuffy
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Scuffy and Ed,
There are no approach pitches whatsoever if you come from the Tioga Rd/Porcupine Flat spot. I don’t know about coming from below. JB/Klemens and my party came from above.
It is a hike downward, actually very pleasant until you are alongside the dome descending the vegetation in the shallow gully, no rock climbing in there. This latter part of the approach is a semi-bitch but doesn’t last too long and it really helps that you are using gravity to thread through the flattened scrub---it all points downwards from the snowpacks. Also, this approach is fairly obvious as you go along and doesn’t have some horrid trick to it.
Another virtue to the route is how it builds from a nice short 5.8 first pitch to 5.9 to 5.10 to 5.11b slowly in the seven leads, #5 being the crux, all while the rock is incredibly good. Some routes are tough right off the ground and thereby seem more stout than they actually might be. And the protection is always good; the kind of fall you would take is always a rather safe one---no horrifying natural features such as guillotine flakes or broken ground. I characterize this route as a very happy kind of harder route, not scary. The crux is very hard but it is also only a short section of less than 10 feet on top of much easier offwidthing that is slowly tapering down. I would characterize the Twilight Zone, for example as very serious and fearsome and this climb as beautiful, encouraging and subtle.
If you actually were unable to do the crux, you can aid a few feet like Donini and Herbert did; it is not mandatory free climbing. I say this because you would not want to hike back up and out from the base to the road----that would be some hours of very unpleasant whacking fighting the scrub that as I say, points downwards vigorously.
Anchors were all natural; when I did the 2nd free on it; there were no bolts and none were needed.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Neat stuff.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Ed, Scuff, I believe my new scramblers™ would be ideal for this approach, even the waterfall.
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dickcilley
Social climber
A cova Dos Nenos
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I see Basketcase getting alot of traffic this season.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Such a great story!
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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yeah!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there donini... say, what a great share....
say, i just had to zero in on this... things just aint always what they seem from the far-off lure of a great view, huh:
TM apologized for his mistake as I was suggesting he get new binoculars and that he get his eyes tested.
but--somehow, it's always still worth it... ;)
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Jim -
Great story. Very fun to read. This and your story about the axe behind the back straight into the tree.
Very fun indeed.
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L
climber
Waist deep in 'gators and still grinnin'...
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"Up rope...I'm not moving..." Too funny, Jim.
What a great story...and it makes me feel so much better for using that simple line any time I find my self in an off-width. Many thanks!
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Pate
Trad climber
The Lost Highway
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Nov 29, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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bump. great tale!
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damage
climber
olympia, wa
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Thanks for the stories, kinda feel like i missed out on something.
At least I found st, I can armchair the experiences.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there wow... somehow i missed it: chappy was here posting back in april.. oh my... :)
say, just stepped in to say:
sure hope you do post more often! donini... :)
wonderful story... i read it again... :)
enjoyed seeing my brother's post, too...
:)
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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So I've been assuming the approach from above is around at line 1 but then looking at the pic I started thinking maybe line 2. Anybody? I remember Werner says coming from the bottom is faster.
Zander
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Zander, it is line #2.
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Pate
Trad climber
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Mar 17, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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donini post with more than two sentences bump
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 17, 2010 - 01:16pm PT
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Yeah, Jim. . .
How about Torre Egger???????
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Mar 18, 2010 - 07:28am PT
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bump....for a great on topic post
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