What were the first few routes on Cookie cliff?


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 28, 2009 - 11:30am PT
Diorite bumps all over the Cookie!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 26, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
Kinda like diorite morsels...

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Sep 26, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
I have a somewhat funny and very vivid (to me, anyway!) memory of Beverly's Tower from an attempt I made with Anne Carrier in 1981: we were trying to avoid cooking and food-mess cleanup and were eating in the Yosemite Lodge Cafeteria,(BAD idea!). After about a week of this I started feeling queasy with a little bit of an upset stomach, but we went over to the Cookie Cliff area anyway and I racked up for leading Bev's Tower. I started up the climb and got to the base of the dihedral after making a couple of tricky moves. At that juncture I realized that I really had to find the bushes--fast. I managed to downclimb, get out of my harness and find s slightly private spot behind some manzanita(?) bushes. By the time I got back out, I was sweating profusely and very shaky. Ann recognized the symptoms of Salmonella poisoning (she was an experienced bacteriology lab researcher) and insisted on retreating to C4 for the rest of the day. After a day or so, I still didn't feel very well. We then simply abandoned the rest of our plans and headed home to Colorado. I still have an axe to grind with Beverly's Tower, and after I get fully healed up--I'll be back.
all in jim

Sep 27, 2010 - 02:44am PT
Why is Todd Skinner not given credit for the FFA of The Stigma?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 27, 2010 - 05:04am PT

I think it was because Watts went slightly higher on the pitch.
I don't remember the exact details at the moment, though.
But it's kinda bogus to leave Skinner out.
Cookie C

May 24, 2011 - 04:27am PT
Later.....It is amusing to find so many variations on what was first the Cookie, then beside or below it, the Cookie Crumb. I never got to climb either of them, not sure why. Maybe Pratt found it a bit after I had to stop climbing. An article in the SF Chronicle this morning (yes, it is now May 2011) led me on a quest to see Camp 4 doings. It was not recommended as a place to stay for Yosemite visitors. And rightfully so. It should be left to climbers, as it was. (Nothing to add about climbs)

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 24, 2011 - 04:48am PT
Cookie C,

Thanks for posting!
I didn't know the chunk below the main wall was called "Cookie Crumb" - cool.

Cookie Cliff (sometimes simply called "The Cookie") was written up a few years ago as one of the "best crags in America".
Pretty cool that it was named after you.

Do you have any climbing photos from back in the day to share?

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 24, 2011 - 09:52am PT
To put it in perspective, the Cookie is one of the ten best crags in America- some other good ones:
Redgarden, El Dorado Canyon
The Elephant's Perch
The Cat Wall, IC
The Trapps, Gunks
The Incredible Hulk
Arch Rock, Yosemite
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 24, 2011 - 11:06am PT

This guy took the right crack rather than chimneying. Or is this an independent climb?

Gym climber
May 24, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
^^^ That might be the top of Aftershock, a Yaniro .11b that comes from around the face on the right. Not too sure where the original route goes. When I did Aftershock, I just finished up Bev's.

In an aside, my buddy TD and I, on a rainy day, managed to get to the top of the big boulder next to the Cookie parking area on the river-side of the road (the one that came down from the big slide). I'd scoped a line I thought would go--we put in a couple of TR bolts and came back later to try a couple of the lines. My line was too hard for us, but TD climbed a short corner. We dubbed the boulder The Doughnut Hole and he called his climb Coffee Corner, .11c.

You can see Coffee Corner from the parking area, on the up-river side of the boulder. Since then, other TRs have been done on the side facing the Cookie.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 24, 2011 - 01:58pm PT

That is the finish to aftershock, which is a scary TR if you choose due to the sharp edges your rope runs over.

Kelly- That arete looks HARD, got to take a look at it this winter.

Funny how many modern bolts decorate the base of the roadside of that boulder.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 05:47pm PT
Cookie Calderwood (2nd from right) and friends, from the Nose Reunion thread


Big Wall climber
Roseburg, OR
Dec 23, 2015 - 05:40pm PT
Nice place to climb in the winter I spent lots of winter days there 1967 and 1968. It was hard to find climbing partners then, I was working in the valley then, lots of friends that I had to teach how to belay so I could climb. If I remember there were few routs there then
Dave Davis

Social climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 25, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
Great thread. Just to make a slight correction from a post way back when, Mead and Tom Hargis were indeed cousins not brothers. Tom grew up across the street from my Aunt in Yakima and I believe Mead's origins were in Chelan.
john hansen

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2018 - 07:36pm PT
Got to give this one a bump.
Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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