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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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Diorite bumps all over the Cookie!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 26, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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Kinda like diorite morsels...
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Sep 26, 2010 - 09:45pm PT
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I have a somewhat funny and very vivid (to me, anyway!) memory of Beverly's Tower from an attempt I made with Anne Carrier in 1981: we were trying to avoid cooking and food-mess cleanup and were eating in the Yosemite Lodge Cafeteria,(BAD idea!). After about a week of this I started feeling queasy with a little bit of an upset stomach, but we went over to the Cookie Cliff area anyway and I racked up for leading Bev's Tower. I started up the climb and got to the base of the dihedral after making a couple of tricky moves. At that juncture I realized that I really had to find the bushes--fast. I managed to downclimb, get out of my harness and find s slightly private spot behind some manzanita(?) bushes. By the time I got back out, I was sweating profusely and very shaky. Ann recognized the symptoms of Salmonella poisoning (she was an experienced bacteriology lab researcher) and insisted on retreating to C4 for the rest of the day. After a day or so, I still didn't feel very well. We then simply abandoned the rest of our plans and headed home to Colorado. I still have an axe to grind with Beverly's Tower, and after I get fully healed up--I'll be back.
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all in jim
climber
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Sep 27, 2010 - 02:44am PT
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Why is Todd Skinner not given credit for the FFA of The Stigma?
Clint?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 27, 2010 - 05:04am PT
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Jim,
I think it was because Watts went slightly higher on the pitch.
I don't remember the exact details at the moment, though.
But it's kinda bogus to leave Skinner out.
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Cookie C
climber
California
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May 24, 2011 - 04:27am PT
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Later.....It is amusing to find so many variations on what was first the Cookie, then beside or below it, the Cookie Crumb. I never got to climb either of them, not sure why. Maybe Pratt found it a bit after I had to stop climbing. An article in the SF Chronicle this morning (yes, it is now May 2011) led me on a quest to see Camp 4 doings. It was not recommended as a place to stay for Yosemite visitors. And rightfully so. It should be left to climbers, as it was. (Nothing to add about climbs)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 24, 2011 - 04:48am PT
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Cookie C,
Thanks for posting!
I didn't know the chunk below the main wall was called "Cookie Crumb" - cool.
Cookie Cliff (sometimes simply called "The Cookie") was written up a few years ago as one of the "best crags in America".
Pretty cool that it was named after you.
Do you have any climbing photos from back in the day to share?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 24, 2011 - 09:52am PT
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To put it in perspective, the Cookie is one of the ten best crags in America- some other good ones:
Redgarden, El Dorado Canyon
The Elephant's Perch
The Cat Wall, IC
The Trapps, Gunks
The Incredible Hulk
Arch Rock, Yosemite
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 24, 2011 - 11:06am PT
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This guy took the right crack rather than chimneying. Or is this an independent climb?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 24, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
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^^^ That might be the top of Aftershock, a Yaniro .11b that comes from around the face on the right. Not too sure where the original route goes. When I did Aftershock, I just finished up Bev's.
In an aside, my buddy TD and I, on a rainy day, managed to get to the top of the big boulder next to the Cookie parking area on the river-side of the road (the one that came down from the big slide). I'd scoped a line I thought would go--we put in a couple of TR bolts and came back later to try a couple of the lines. My line was too hard for us, but TD climbed a short corner. We dubbed the boulder The Doughnut Hole and he called his climb Coffee Corner, .11c.
You can see Coffee Corner from the parking area, on the up-river side of the boulder. Since then, other TRs have been done on the side facing the Cookie.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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May 24, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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Mike-
That is the finish to aftershock, which is a scary TR if you choose due to the sharp edges your rope runs over.
Kelly- That arete looks HARD, got to take a look at it this winter.
Funny how many modern bolts decorate the base of the roadside of that boulder.
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Loyd
Big Wall climber
Roseburg, OR
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Dec 23, 2015 - 05:40pm PT
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Nice place to climb in the winter I spent lots of winter days there 1967 and 1968. It was hard to find climbing partners then, I was working in the valley then, lots of friends that I had to teach how to belay so I could climb. If I remember there were few routs there then
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 25, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
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Great thread. Just to make a slight correction from a post way back when, Mead and Tom Hargis were indeed cousins not brothers. Tom grew up across the street from my Aunt in Yakima and I believe Mead's origins were in Chelan.
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john hansen
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2018 - 07:36pm PT
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Got to give this one a bump.
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